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Nissan Maxima

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Comments

  • Any comment I or suggestions on the 2001 Maxima GEL I the 2001 Volvo S60. The Volvo is a little more expensive, but I like the styling better. How is the reliability for each? I've never owned either; I've had Toyota for the last 10 years.
    Thanks for any guidance.
  • Well,

    Both very nice cars, although the Maxima, especially in SE guise is more of a sport sedan. The Volvo S60 is more of a touring sedan. I found the Volvo seats THE most confortable of probably any car I've sat in. As far as reliability, the Maxima is built very well. Consumer Reports reported some serious problems with Volvo trannys especially the S80. I dunno if the S80 tranny carries over to the S60, but other than that I believe Volvos are in general reliable.

    Good luck

    Speed
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    For what it's worth, check out my post #890 on my 100,000 mile experience with a Maxima. I don't know how much cheaper the Intrigue is, but I have to believe it will depreciate to a much greater degree and long term maintence and repairs will be higher. I was recently offered $11,500 for my '95 Maxima, which, in spite of 102,000 miles, is in near perfect shape. This is 55% of what I paid for it! A quick check of the paper shows few '95 GM cars selling for more than 25% of their original price.

    As for the Volvo S60, I did seriously consider a 850 Turbo when I bought the Maxima. Nice car, but definately more expensive to maintain. Also, the turbo in my neighbor's S70 went out at 75,000 miles and cost him in excess of $3,000.

    Good luck with your choices.
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    Are there any first hand experiences (or established general knowledge) concerning catastrophic crashes and the body integrity of Maxima? I saw a post somewhere recently that suggested that this car does not hold up well to a severe crash (wish I could remember where I saw the post).

    I am in the market for a new car this year and Maxima has been on my list. Safety and crashworthiness is obviously one very crucial factor.

    Thanks in advance for any responses.

    Ken
  • lsflsf Posts: 98
    Tpken, You probably saw a post written by a guy who was sandwiched (I think the guy behind him was hit hard in the rear and was slammed into his car. The problem this guy had was that the air bags didn't deploy. There not supposed to on a rear end collision. Yeah the guy had some injuries, but he's alive and well now and was on a crusade against Nissan for a while last summer and fall.

    Slope, Intermittent wipers are standard, what isn't standard are the variable intermittent. If you're looking at the GLE, you probably know that most everything is standard on the GLE. The upgrades off the base GLE include: meridien (heated seats and side mirrors, side air bags and low washer fluid light (I agree that's an odd one)), 6 CD changer, sunroof and .... that's about it I think. I would suggest sticking with premium gas. You can try going down a grade, but the lower grade fuels fire sooner.

    Ostrosky...the fuel cut problem is an 5 spd issue. You'll like the GLE, it has more room in front and rear than the Forester. It is a very solid feeling car. I like mine a lot. 6400 miles, bought Aug. 00.
  • Isf - Thanks. I'm glad I joined the Edmunds forum and posted. Already the info on here is really helping me confirm that my choice is a good one. My wife agrees.

    Now, all we have to do is to hassle with the dealers.

    Thanks again everyone for your ideas and keep them coming.

    If I buy a Maxima, I'll make certain to revisit after the purchase and offer my experiences.
  • (Just 2c of buying advice)
    Edmunds will equip you with all the details of Maxima pricing and negotiating strategies, so dealers cannot pull wool over your eyes. Which makes you an informed buyer.

    Also, you can get (and print) quotes from online companies (CarsDirect.com, Priceline.com, several others) and take those printouts to help you cut hours from negotiation. I actually bought online and saved myself several $g as well as most of the hassles.
  • lofquistlofquist Posts: 281
    Folks,
    As long as we're talking deals on 2001's, don't forget about the option to go to Canada to buy and save money. I bought in Canada in September and all went very smoothly. The posts I've made before have been lost many pages back so I will summarize again here.

    So why would you do this? Save some big money! The exchange rate just keeps getting better for the US. Here's some sample selling prices for Maximas in Canada (converted to US dollars, and including duty):
    1) Maxima GXE, auto trans, traction control, and convenience pkg. Convenience pkg contains everything in the Meridian and Com and Con pkgs. $21,100. (US dealer invoice is $22,740)
    2) Maxima SE 20th Anniv Edition. Auto trans. Includes traction control, Bose, Meridian pkg, and leather. Does not have the ground effects though. $23,800. (US dealer invoice is $28,006)
    3) Maxima GLE. Auto trans. Includes traction control, sunroof, Meridian pkg. $23,100. (US dealer invoice is $25,852)

    Here's the answers to the most asked questions:
    - Yes, it's perfectly legal as a US resident to buy a new car in Canada.
    - Maxima meets all US safety and emissions requirements (California too).
    - You will have to pay some Canadian sales taxes, but they send you a refund after you take the vehicle out of the country.
    - The warranty is honored in the US.
    - It's identical to the US Max, but in Canada they come better equipped with options.
    - Speedo is in km and miles; odo is in km, but can be changed if you prefer.
    - Yes, I have found some dealers willing to sell over the phone at close to invoice, far below list price.
    - Get your financing at home first.

    Quick summary of the process:
    1. Call dealer and make a deal. Get VIN number.
    2. Call Nissan and get US emissions and safety compliance letter (will fax if in a hurry).
    3. Go to Canada, pay, drive away.
    4. Stop at Canadian customs. Get a form stamped.
    5. Stop at US Customs. Show compliance letter. Pay 2.5% duty.
    6. Register vehicle and pay your state's sales tax when home just like normal.
    7. Get Canadian sales tax refund check in the mail.

    As I said it went smoothly for me and I know of over twenty others who have followed my lead for either a Maxima or a Pathfinder. It's not difficult at all. Sure, there's a little paperwork to do. And many people are surprised how close to Canada they really are. Anyone from Chicago to D.C. is easily within a one days drive of Toronto. And much of the West Coast is close to Vancouver.

    I'll be glad to help anyone out with questions or good contacts. Just email me.

    -Jon
    jonlofquist@aol.com
  • Ostrosky - and others, you might want to check out this exhaustive test drive advice and checklist:

    http://popularmechanics.com/popmech/cbg/guide/2001/features/2000CBGFCM.html
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    Lofquist,

    Very interesting post. I have been looking at 1.52+ Canadian Dollars to US Dollar and thinking of buying a BMW in Canada. 540i 6-speed could be had for about $48,000, or at least $6,000 less than in US. However, the BMW dealership that I contacted (B-K Motors in Ontario) said BMW of North America strongly discourages such cross border sales. The customs office I contacted also said it can be difficult to get the emissions compliance letter out of BMW. Any experience with BMW or other comments/suggestions?? Thanks.
  • lofquistlofquist Posts: 281
    habitat1,
    Each of the auto manufacturers has a different outlook on Canadian sales to the US. Nissan, as I mentioned above, has absolutley no problems with them. They are actually a pleasure to do business with and the compliance letter is no problem. The process is easy and you can save thousands.

    Some other manufacturers are not the same. "Discourage" is the word I often hear because they cannot legally prevent sales to the US. But they can penalize a dealer by withholding bonuses and allocations. Honda does this and will not even honor the warranty in the US if you do happen to get one home anyway. Of course the reason to prevent sales to the US is to keep prices higher here while the US dollar is still strong.

    For BMW I've heard conflicting info. So you get to do some work yourself. If the dealer will sell to you, then get the VIN and call BMW for the compliance letter. Just say you need the letter - they don't need to know anything else. For all they know, you could be a Canadian citizen moving to the US. Then you are set. Please do let me know what you find. I also have copies of the couple forms you will need along with details on the process.

    Again, for Nissan though it's a piece of cake. Nothing to worry about except how to spend the savings.

    -Jon
    jonlofquist@aol.com
  • lsflsf Posts: 98
    Let's say you're a dealer in Buffalo, you've been loyal, stayed with the nameplate through thick and thin, and you've got customers who go across the border to buy from a Canadian dealer. You'd be pissed off. That's why many of these other manufacturers don't encourage this. Also, you're not taking advantage of a strong dollar. The C$ and US$ move inrelation to the yen. If the car was made in Canada, yes the C$ exchange rate would make a difference. What you can do however is take the price of going to Canada, and get some satisfaction from your US dealer (hey it's worth trying, eh?)
  • lofquistlofquist Posts: 281
    lsf,
    A very good explanation of why dealers (and their US distributors) don't like the sales from Canada.

    But I will disagree with you slightly about the Canadian/US exchange rate. Exactly four years ago the rate was 1.35; now it's 1.52. That gives us in the US a huge advantage. The import manufacturers can't put in huge price increases on their vehicles just because the Canadian dollar is weak. They need to remain price competitive with the domestic brands.

    A couple Canadian people told me of how they used to come to the US to get their cars since it was cheaper. Now it's just the reverse.

    BTW, my local dealer didn't care at all that I bought in Canada. He even did the warranty conversion for me.

    -Jon
  • sw12sw12 Posts: 2
    Hello everyone.

    I have a doubt, If I want to buy a 2000 Maxima GXE today then how much depreciation I should calculate over it and how much I should quote to the dealer ?

    Can anybody suggests or comment ?
  • joenissanjoenissan Posts: 313
    The maxima has a 4 star crash-test rating for both driver and passenger. Depending on the accident circumstances though...no car is 100% safe.

    Joe
  • What part of S. Florida to you live in??, I can recommend a dealership, if you are in the area.
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    Thanks for info and helpful facts. It looks like I'll not be cruising a Maxima but rather a Bonneville that I just signed for - a 2000 preowned SE model (rental unit) with 18K miles for 15,995. Best wishes to all - I'll continue to monitor your excellent forum here.

    Ken
  • Just picked up my new 2001 GLE this morning. Grey Lustre ext, black int., Meridian, sunroof and deflector, mats, splash guards and traction control. Replacement for my trusty '97 GLE with 59K miles. Never had any issues with the '97, and looking forward to several great years with this car. A couple of questions, since this is my first post.

    1. I was surprised to hear the sales associate tell me that she was using mid-grade gas (91 oct, I believe) in her Maxima. Then I look in the manual and they say that 87 is acceptable !! This appears to be in steep contrast to the 97's, which wanted 93 octane. Did the engine design or some other engineering change warrant the octane change? Should I be looking at mid-grade as opposed to the premium stuff?

    2. Also, any feedback, good bad or indifferent on the Toyo tires standard on my GLE ? How do they compare with the Michelins that were stock on my 97 GLE?

    Also, a word of thanks to all of you that have participated in the past (and will continue to, I hope !) to this forum. Your suggestions and information have been invaluable to me and a lot of other current and prospective owners. This note is especially for joenissan.. glad you're back.
  • No 1 gasoline rule: Use the cheapest one that will not cause your engine to knock.

    Then it gets hairy: Nissan engine has an electronic sensor to adjust your timing so that your engine will not knock with pretty well any gas, according to various reports that I have read. But your mileage may suffer as a consequence. Some people have reported an improved mileage with regular gas, though. And finally, not all stations' 87 octane is the same. That applies for all gas grades. Sorry, that is a summary of not so helpful comments. (I use 91 or 92 Costco - no experiments with a new engine for me...)

    The original Toyo tires are pretty good in all departments (Traction A, Temp A, and Wear is 240, which is pretty high, too). They give you a fairly sporty feel, which goes with the character of the Maxima.

    Enjoy and welcome to the Max family!
  • I posted at #697, and was gone for a while, now back. I appreciate the TSB info post at #700 re warped front brake rotors, and will follow up at the dealer. However, I have seen no replies as to whether there are performance chips available for the 2000 Maxima that would safely increase performance. I have heard people talk of such for other vehicles. Thanks.
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