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2011 Toyota Camry

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Comments

  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    They have been improved, DRAMATICALLY improved.

    But not so that the average driver will appreciate it.

    As a FWD and/or F/awd SAFETY measure TC, Traction Control, will now INSTANTLY activate, severely dethrottling the engine while braking the slipping/skidding (DRIVEN) wheel(s). Since this new TC design will not allow even the slightest level of driven wheelspin/slip you will not be able to move forward absent being VERY gingerly, feathering, the gas pedal ever so lightly.

    This is an important SAFETY measure on the part of FWD and F/awd manufacturers as loss of directional control can be almost INSTANT once front front wheel traction is lost due to engine torque, leading or lagging, compression braking, engine torque.

    Some new vehicles using this more aggressive TC have an "off" button so you can more easily get up and going on the slippery stuff, on an incline, or rock back and forth to get "unstuck".

    All newer FWD and/or F/awd vehicles will now have this new SAFETY feature. For even greater safety and a much more beneign TC system look to a RWD or R/awd vehicle if you often drive on an adverse, slippery, roadbed in the wintertime.
  • connecticut2connecticut2 Posts: 41
    edited October 2010
    1 thing - tighten the power steering at higher speeds, similar to what Sonata and Accord do. It would go a long way...

    btw, when are the 2012 Camry's are coming out?
  • jimdrewjimdrew Posts: 84
    The Camry has a plastic protector under the front of the engine...apparently it is easily pulled off. I took my 3 Month's old Camry to the dealer and he said that it was missing 4 of the plastic screws to hold it up. He wanted to charge me...I said no way..I have not hit anything and it seems like poor engineering to me. The dealership let me get by with ONE complementary reinstall. This is completely shameful. A company like Toyota building one of the best sedans on the market and having such poor engineering of the engine protector and than wanting the customer to pay for it. C'mon Toyota...whats up with this? :lemon:

    Jimmy Drew
  • jimdrewjimdrew Posts: 84
    Anyone know how we complain to Toyota...I can't believe they would design this wonderful car with a built in problem....of course I am referring to my previous post of the engine protector under the car.

    Jimmy Drew
  • jimdrewjimdrew Posts: 84
    I have the 2011 LE with auto transmission and 4 cylinder....it is great...I was going to buy the V6 but they let me drive a 4 cylinder over night...and wow was I impressed. Yes, this will get you on the freeway, no problem.

    Jimmy Drew
  • delbardelbar Posts: 32
    Toyota Headquarters phone # is 800-331-4331 - good luck
    i placed a call to them but was told to just take to service dept for tranny issues
    service dept. cancelled my appt and have not heard back from them so i will continue the battle until they resolve the jerky tranny issue
    but if anyone has a complaint they truly need to go on record at h q
    if hq gets enough calls they will have to address the issues
  • My newly purchased car (3 weeks) has provided me several unhappy surprises. The first issue rose when we had rain and I opened the car door to discover rain inside the door frame. It wasn't in the car -- just inside the door frame, which I fear will rust. I called the dealer and they said that was standard for Toyota -- so long as it does not get into the car it is acceptable. The water spots leave ugly looking splotches on the frame so when it stops raining I run out with my towel and dry the door frames. I even had ice inside the door frame (but not inside the car proper) after we had some severe cold weather.
    My second unhappy surprise was that the door locks sometimes do not work. I took it back to the dealer, but the door locks always worked for them. They didn't think they could fix anything they couldn't make happen, so I have to check my door locks each time I start the car. Perhaps it will get bad enough that they will eventually be able to diagnose the problem and fix it.
    Have a couple of other build issues with the car, and will likely post about them later. I am very disappointed with the quality of the build on my car and want to caution others who might be considering a purchase.

    Phylis
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    How many cars have you owned? I have never owned a car that didn't get water on the door frames. That is why there are rubber seals around the frame so water will not enter the passenger space. The dealer is correct. Cars are designed this way. The doors would have to be welded shut and sealed to stop water from getting on the frame. Then you couldn't get in.
  • Thank you for taking the time to explain that to me. Since I did not have that issue with my Tercel, nor do I have it with my truck, it was a total surprise to me.
    I thought that a simple rubber strip along the edges of the door would be adequate to keep the water out.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I agree with the other poster about the door frames and rubber seals. The trunk is made the same way -- there is a space inside the lid but outside the rubber which will get wet or dusty depending on conditions. Rust won't be a problem, because the surfaces are painted.

    As for the door locks not working, there is a situation with the Camry (and presumably other Toyotas) where this is normal. If you lock all the doors with the remote and leave someone else inside, that person will not be able to unlock the doors by using the power lock button on either front door. The person can still exit the car by pulling on the door handle (front door) or manually flipping the door lock and then pulling on the door handle (rear door). If the car has an alarm system, the alarm will sound if any door is opened in this manner.

    You can test this out yourself by leaving a front window down, locking all the doors with the remote, and then trying to activate the power lock switch on the inside door panel. You'll find it won't work.
  • The switch, which control the inside circulation or air from outside, automatically switch from inside circulation mode to outside one. This only happens when the weather is cold. The dealers says that is the way being designed to. But it is very annoying especially when the air belows to your face, the cold air makes you feel unconfortable. Did anybody feels the same?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Human metabolism continually adds moisture to the car interior, breathing, perpiration. Recirculating that same air over and over again would eventualy result in fogging a COLD windshield interior surface. Even with the A/C operational in many climatic conditions it may not be efficient enough for dehumidification to really help. Plus which the A/C will shut down completely if the OAT declines below ~35F.

    Even in the summertime if the A/C is turned off the system will switch to "fresh" within about 2 minutes.

    The discomfort of cool airflow to the face and upper body when the human comfort equation indicates otherwise is a matter of REAL stupidty, IDIOCY, on the part of the NIPPONDENSO HVAC engineering team.

    But you can overcome their stupidty, IDIOCY, by having the dealer change the factory c-best setting so the system doesn't automatically switch to cooling mode. Not even on the coldest night in the dead of winter
  • I also don't like the Venza, and definitely not the new Sienna, which looks to me like it is "embarrassing".. (except for the SE version).

    I'm with you on those two especially the sienna. What's up with that? The series that began in 2004 is where they lost me on that vehicle. 2003 and prior it was a nice little van. Now it's a tank. No tanks.
  • It's gotten bigger to the point it's no longer a midsize car. My 01 is a nice size for a camry. Once I saw what the 02's looked like, I jumped on a leftover 01. They need better seat bottoms in the car. Looks like current owners are complaing about the same things I do in mine.

    They should look to the kia optima if they want to compete on styling. Fusion is bland. Don't care about heated seats or anything else for that matter, nav etc ect. Just make a reliable car, but give it a total redesign stylewise. Take some cues from their own FT-86. If that car is any indication, they're heading in the right direction. They just need to release it already.
  • Apparently I did not explain my problem adequately. It was my understanding that the car doors would lock automatically when I put the car in drive. The problem is that sometimes they lock; sometimes they don't lock. I don't feel comfortable driving around not knowing whether my doors are actually locked or not. Having to roll down the window and check the outdoor handle to be sure they are locked is not something I would expect to have to do.

    Thanks

    Phylis
  • Hi. Yesterday I purchased a pre-owned 2011 Camry. This morning, driving in the rain, with my headlights on, the lighting level of my instrument panel suddenly went down on its own. I thought that was strange and manually adjusted the lighting level up. A few minutes later, it went back up on its own, so I had a very bright panel I had to adjust down again. Coming home, again with headlights in the rain, the same lighting went down again, I manually adjusted it and about 20 minutes later it suddenly went bright again.

    A post from last year said this is caused by a wire shorting behind the instrument panel. I am going back to the dealer tomorrow. If anyone knows of other reasons for this happening, or how to fix it, I would appreciate your input.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,666
    edited October 2011
    Your car is operating perfectly normal. The car automatically adjusts to the outside lighting levels. In other words, it will turn the brightness up when it is lighter outside, and down when it is darker (because when the surrounding light is very dim or dark, you don't need a very bright instrument panel.) It will always do this, but you can adjust the brightness by turning the trip odometer clockwise or counter-clockwise. Find the setting you like and leave it there.

    You are noticing it because it is new to you, and in the rain the outside light levels vary. Try it on a regular day, and you will see it does not go up and down frequently, if ever. Try it at night, or on a sunny day, and you will see that it is fine.

    Enjoy your new car!
  • But my dash light diminished in intensity from the way I had set it while I was driving in the rain...it increased suddenly but it was not darker (that I could see).

    Thanks.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,666
    Really, it is fine - it is supposed to do this. You can set it to one level, but it turns it even brighter when it is light out, then darker when dark out. I have a 2010 & a 2007, which are the same as a 2011 - mine do the same thing, and you will notice it more when raining. You are just not noticing the slight variance in brightness of the environment.

    I bet any money that if you went out for a drive right now, it will stay at one setting (because it is dark out, unless you are on the west coast!)

    Don't bother with the dealer, they will tell you the same as what I am saying. Also check with the Toyotanation forums if you want further confirmation.
  • This is all strange to me! Especially because when I was driving in the rain, the light did not change, it was overcast.

    On the other hand, when I drove under an overpass, the light switched down then -- but again came up suddenly, without change in the outside light.

    Sounds like this effect is amplified for you when the headlights are in auto versus changing them manually. I had set the headlights manually....
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