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Oldsmobile Intrigue

1532533535537538594

Comments

  • white6white6 Posts: 588
    Every Intrigue has the PassLok theft-deterent system. Sounds like your ignition switch is getting funky, or perhaps the key has a problem. If you have another key, try it the next time you have this problem and see if it helps.
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    What is this? I have a 2000 (bought used) and don't know anything about it. Is it one of those electronic ignition disablers? I had a key made at Lowe's and it works just fine.
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Posts: 256
    The Passlock™ System is provided in order to prevent vehicle theft if the ignition lock cylinder is forced to rotate or the ignition switch is operated while separated from the ignition lock cylinder case. If starting is attempted without authorization from the Passlock™ System, the powertrain control module (PCM) will disable the fuel injectors causing the engine to stall immediately after starting.

    The components of the Passlock™ System are as follows:

    The ignition lock cylinder and key
    The ignition lock cylinder case, including the Passlock™ Sensor
    The ignition switch
    The body control module (BCM)
    The security indicator on the instrument cluster
    The powertrain control module (PCM)
    Ignition Lock Cylinder Case, Including the Passlock™ Sensor

    The ignition lock cylinder fits inside the ignition lock cylinder case and operates the ignition switch when turned by a key with the proper mechanical cut. When the ignition key is used to turn the ignition lock cylinder to crank, start, a magnet on the lock cylinder passes close to the Passlock™ Sensor within the ignition lock cylinder case. The magnet activates the Security Hall Effect Sensor in the Passlock™ Sensor which completes a circuit from the security sensor signal circuit through a resistor to the security sensor low reference circuit. The resistance value will vary from vehicle to vehicle.

    If a magnet from outside of the ignition lock cylinder case is used to attempt to steal the vehicle, the Tamper Hall Effect Sensor will be activated. This completes a circuit from the security sensor signal circuit through a tamper resistor to the security sensor low reference circuit bypassing the security resistor. If the ignition switch is forced to rotate without the correct key, or if the ignition lock cylinder is removed by force, the Passlock™ Sensor will be damaged and will not operate.

    Ignition Switch
    The ignition switch contains the wiring and electrical switching portion of the column mounted ignition assembly. The ignition switch includes wiring pigtails which connect it to the base of column connector, the Passlock™ Sensor on the ignition lock cylinder case, and other components. The wiring for the Passlock™ Sensor is unaffected by ignition switch position. The electrical switch portion is operated by the key and lock cylinder when they are rotated within the ignition lock cylinder case. The ignition switch operates the crank relay regardless of the status of the Passlock™ System.

    a lot of technical data about PCM BCM data transfer

    Changing the Passlock™ Components
    The following components contain codes or passwords, or must learn codes or passwords for the Passlock™ system to allow the vehicle to start:

    The ignition lock cylinder case
    BCM
    The powertrain control module (PCM)
    If any of these parts are replaced, a learn procedure must be performed. Refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System Components . If parts are replaced and a learn procedure is not performed, the engine will crank and will not run or will start and stall immediately.

    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  • msw13msw13 Posts: 51
    I thought about that too. I filled the PBR caliper with brake fluid, and then poured it into a cup. When I pulled the OE calipers off, I poured the out the fluid and it was almost exactly the same amount per caliper. So, I went ahead and did the swap. The pedal height is the same, but the brakes do seem improved. The firmness and force required are about the same as before. I have done several high speed stops, and it really does seem to stop quicker. Thanks for the input
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    You did as much as any backyard mechanic could and probably more than most would. Kudos to you for doing that much. However, what you did only measured the static displacement. The displacement requirements of each caliper at say 1000 psi could be significantly different under both static and dynamic conditions. One could make a crude static measurement with a pressure gage in the system and a means to measure pedal travel. Dynamically the only way to do it is on a dynamometer under controlled conditions. Btw, pedal height is strictly a function of the pedal ratio and vacuum booster.

    You'll may never encounter a situation in which this swap causes a problem but as a brake engineer, these kinds of amateur upgrades always make me nervous.
  • taycrontaycron Posts: 65
    Thanks for the help with the passlock info..
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Posts: 256
    Taycron here is the info i left out above with ...a lot of technical data about PCM BCM data transfer....Thought you might find it usefull after all.
    cheers

    Body Control Module (BCM)
    The BCM contains the logic of the theft deterrent system. The BCM provides the battery positive voltage to operate the Passlock™ Sensor. The BCM also measures the voltage of the security sensor signal circuit. The voltage measured will indicate whether the Passlock™ Sensor has been activated and whether the resistance value from the sensor is a valid value or the tamper value. If voltage measured is in the valid range, the BCM compares this voltage, voltage code, to a previously learned voltage code. If the voltage codes match, the BCM sends a class 2 message containing a password to the PCM. If the voltage codes do not match, or the voltage is in the Tamper range, or there is a circuit fault, the BCM will not send the correct password to the PCM, and the vehicle will not start.

    Powertrain Control Module
    The powertrain control module (PCM) contains the remainder of the logic of the theft deterrent system. If a class 2 message containing a valid password is received from the BCM, the PCM will continue to allow the fuel injectors to operate. The PCM will allow the fuel injectors to operate until it decides there is no valid password coming from the BCM. If the PCM does not receive a class 2 message, or receives a class 2 message with an incorrect password, the engine will crank and will not run or will start and stall immediately.

    Theft System Indicator
    The IPC illuminates the theft deterrent indicator as determined by the theft deterrent system. The IPC receives a class 2 message from the BCM requesting illumination.

    The vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) system requests the IPC to illuminate the indicator only when the ignition switch is ON.
    The content theft deterrent (CTD) system requests the IPC to illuminate the indicator only when the ignition switch is in the OFF or ACC positions or during RAP.
    The body control module performs the displays test at the start of each ignition cycle. The indicator illuminates for approximately 3 seconds.
    Fuel Lockout Cycle
    When it receives a password which is incorrect or a password which indicates tamper and the PCM disables the fuel injectors, the fuel injectors remain disabled for 10 minutes even if the ignition switch is turned from the RUN position to the OFF position.

    Changing the Passlock™ Components
  • focusfocus Posts: 225
    i had two 7" woofers lying around so i added to the rear; to my surprise...it improved the sound quite a bit. i was driving a smaller car before (audi) and didn't find the rear speaker add any sound value, but in a larger vehicle like the intrigue, it does help.
    Though it took my guy a long time to do it as he had to remove the back panel; not difficult but takes time.
  • msw13msw13 Posts: 51
    I too had some reservations, but I can change back to the single piston OE caliper anytime. I got the idea on the swap from guys who have used the same '98 Camaro parts on '67-69 Camaros with an adapter plate to the original spindle. They have used various M/C's, and vacuum booster setups in these conversions. Plus, Behr and Master Power, and Brembo make upgrade kits that use similar twin piston calipers and large cross-drilled/slotted rotors. These kits can be used without changing the M/C. I wouldn't have done it, if I thought safety would be compromised. On the other hand, I think the stopping distances are improved and the car is safer. I guess we may never know precisely until a dynamic test is done with this caliper/Master cylinder combo. The only real difference with the Autobahn option. I only need the 12" Caliper bracket (abutment) to swap the calipers back out. Do you work for GM or Ford?
  • taycrontaycron Posts: 65
    Thank You, moonshadow..
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    msw13 asked: "Do you work for GM or Ford?"

    No, I work for one of the largest brake suppliers and we supply all the major manufacturers plus the hydraulic brake truck industry. Since the brake system is designed to perform under worst case conditions, I doubt that anything you've done would degrade performance in a way that you would notice.

    Regarding stopping distance being improved, I doubt it. You could lock the wheels with the stock brake system so unless you put on stickier rubber, there's no way you could improve stopping distance. You may be experiencing greater decel at the same pedal effort because you've increased the gain.
  • ozznetozznet Posts: 81
    This might be a stupid question but I will ask it anyway. When you take your car in for a tune up what do they actually do.
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    Look in your owner's manual. You probably won't find any reference to "tune up." There will be intervals for changing air filters, maybe fuel filter, and spark plugs. Dealers will typically do a "throttle body cleaning" and "fuel injector service" as part of a tune up. In my opinion, both of those treatments are of dubious value.

    Unless your car is running rough or your check engine light has come on, there's probably no need to do anything beyond what the owner's manual recommends.
  • taycrontaycron Posts: 65
    My car had 119,000 miles on it and I was getting 19mpg in mixed driving. I got a tune up that cost $412.00. The mechanic did the fuel injector cleaning and other stuff. I thought it was a lot of money but the mechanic is a friend of the family so I feel he didn't screw me (I think).. Anyways, since I got the tuneup I am averaging 26mpg in mixed driving. With today's gas prices I should make the money back in a week..
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    At 119K miles, some of those things probably do work well. I don't think the guy who asked the question has nearly that many miles. My son just had a 15K checkup on his Matrix. The dealer did a throttle body cleaning. No way that was needed at 15K miles. Cost him $54.
  • focusfocus Posts: 225
    what's the best way to do a mpg, or, kpl (kilometer per litre) calculation? My fill up pattern varies.
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    I think the only meaningful mileage calculation is one that's done over several fillups. Top off the tank, record the odo and then keep track of how much gas you use over 3 or 4 tanks. Top off that last fillup, record odo, add up the fuel used. Recording over several fillups should offset the effect of a short or partial fillup along the way.
  • turboshadowturboshadow Posts: 349
    I know I've asked a lot, and I appreciate the info, but I found yet another candidate on a local new car lot:

    1999 Olds Intrigue GLS
    23500 miles (checked Csrfax...usage was 3-6K per year)
    No sale green, tan leather guts
    No slider
    CD/Cassette + 12 disc changer in trunk

    Trunk...brings me to a bad point. I smelled a horrible mildew smell. After test drive (man those things drive well), I pulled up the cover over the spare tire and there were puddles of water. Tire changing instructions look like they were wet at one time or another, too.

    They are asking $12

    I'm thinking waaaaaaaaaayyyyyyy less....$8,5 or so.

    What say you, oh wise ones?

    Car is in Columbia, SC.

    Turboshadow
  • dekesterdekester Posts: 322
    Wet trunk?? Run! Means either the trunk lid does not fit properly or the rubber seal no longer seals. Could be the car was in a flood.
    Mildew is almost impossible to get out of a car.

    I'd steer clear of the car no matter how low the mileage.

    Wonder what my 98 with 37500 on it would bring if this one is $12K?

    Deke
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    I would ask about the water in the trunk. Personally, they are asking way too much. I'm thinking about $7k esp. with the water damage.
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