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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Sedans



  • mbnut1mbnut1 Posts: 403
    If it were me and the manual calls for 91 I would use 93
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    ...use the highest octane available for this car. Anything lower than 91 causes the computer to retard the timing, which means less power and higher fuel consumption.
  • mac320mac320 Posts: 147
    What does you manual say about the 240's compression?

    The MSN and Edmunds sites say 10.5 for the 240 and so does the MBUSA site.

    The "203 Operator's Manual C-Class," Edition B 2002, that came with our 02/02 build-date C320 has specs and features for C240, C320 and C32 AMG and says all three engines have a 10:1 compression ratio.

    I don't know what is right, but if the 240's compression is 10.5, using at least the minimum octane would be better for the engine, and 93 probably would be better yet.
  • mbgambga Posts: 11
    Thanks for the feedback. I will try the 93 octane.

    By the way, my 240 is a '01 and the manual states 10.1 compression.
  • I recently bought a 99 C230 Kompressor. The car that I bought has only one Smart Key at the time of purchase. I bought another Smart Key (on E-Bay) because the local dealership told me they could program it. Now they say that they can't program the key. Does anyone know if the key can be programmed, either by myself or at a dealer, or is it useless to me?
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    Get 4 real snow tires (not all-season) and wheels to mount them on. It certainly won't be as good as an AWD car with snow tires, but it will be dramatically better than RWD with all-season tires (particularly after you get 10,000 or so miles on the all-season tires). Think about it this way, the only real added cost to snow tires is the cost of the wheels, since every month you use the snow tires is a month you are not wearing out your summer tires.
  • esswebessweb Posts: 51
    Most of the tire place offer free change of tire every winter or spring if you buy all 4 snow tires from them. why spend $1000 on the extra wheel? nedzel is right, you are saving the all season when using the snow tires, so it is actually free in the long run
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    ...every time you tear down the wheel/tire combination, you take the risk of damaging the wheel, not to mention the risk of the subsequent tire/wheel combination being not as smooth as the originals.

    I am very big on getting separate wheels for this purpose. Constantly moving the wheels from one set of tires to the other is an invitation for something to get screwed up - if you're not a perfectionist about road vibrations and similar problems, it may not matter, but for people like me, this is too big a risk.
  • avro2avro2 Posts: 6
    Hello too all,

    I was wondering if any of you chaps or ladies are heading to the gala going to be held by Mercedes in Toronto Canada (Wednesday Oct. 23rd 2002) 6:30 to 10:30 – need any more info contact (416) 588 7101 (25 British Columbia Road, Exhibition Place)

    It’s going to be loads of fun, more cars and not to mention great food and wine!

    Let me know,
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    The free change over is for your combined tire and wheel, not for demounting your summer tires from wheels and then mounting snow tires on the same wheels. Each time you mount/demount tires from a wheel, you impose wear on the bead. You also have to balance the tires again. It only takes them a couple minutes to take the combined summer tires/wheels off your car and install the winter tires/wheels. That's why they can do it for free. It takes a whole lot more time to remove the tire from the wheel, install a new tire, balance, etc.

    Get a separate set of wheels for your snow tires. Call up your local tire shop and talk to them -- they'll give you the same advice.
  • I am hoping that one of you folks has an answer to a problem that is driving me crazy. On my 2000 MB 230K (4 dr sport), which I leased new, every time I start the car up, especially in the morning, I am smelling a distict anti freeze odor (chemical smell) out of the front dash vent. On humid days, all of the windows fog up the minute I turn on the air/heat. If I'm driving, I am temorarily without a clear sight of the road. I brought it to the dealer, who said the air con drain hole was clogged, and that they fixed it. Unfortunately, the problem was not solved. I am considering buying out the lease ($18k) at the end of the term, but still not sure. Can anyone give me some insight? You guys saved me big time on the dash rattling (sun visors) and the fuel warning light (faulty switch) back in 2000. Pls help me again. Tks, John
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    ...sounds like the heater box itself has a small leak. This would explain all of the symptoms you describe. Unfortunately, I don't know how to prove it to a dealer, or what you can do to convince them to look, or what testing they would do to verify, but your description is word for word what we experienced on our "Beater" early '80s Ford that was a third car for a number of years. The local Chevron station mechanic [!!!!] made the diagnosis and the fix. And I'll bet he still doesn't charge $90 an hour...

    I think this means that the heater box [which contains the circulating cooling fluid, which is after all the heating medium] is leaking just enough engine coolant into the air system to give you both the smells and the unwanted extra moisture. It's probably a very small seepage, or you'd see other symptoms [like coolant loss and such]. See if you can get a dealer to give it a check.
  • 404c404c Posts: 146
    You have a pinhole in your heater core, most likely, as jrct9454 says.

    Tell the dealer to do a pressure test on the cooling system. They should pump it up to maybe 30 psi and then leave the car for a while if the pressure does not begin to drop immediately. The test equipment is like a high-quality bicycle pump that has a pressure gauge attached to it. It attaches to the radiator cap. All decent garages have one (if yours doesn't, they are idiots, go somewhere else). There should be ZERO pressure drop over that time. If there is some, that proves that a leak exists.

    Then the question is: where is the pressure drop occuring, but your sense of smell tells the dealer what to change. Plus maybe the interior will smell of coolant by then. So, because the car's under warranty, they should put a new heater core in, no questions asked at that point.

    If you were out of the warranty period, I'd be tempted to try a Rube Goldberg solution before busting my a** changing a heater core (they're usually awful). The Rube solution calls for you to get a rad sealant such as the General Motors brown tablets, grind 'em into a fine powder and put it in the radiator. It just may work. I cured a moderately leaky radiator gasket on my 180,000 mile 1989 Peugeot that way - the alternative was a new rad or an expensive rad tank seal change, on a car that's worth $14.99 or thereabouts. This solution has held for 2 years and 40,000 miles.

    You should sort this problem out before the car is out of warranty though. If you were to pay an M-B dealer to do it you'd be into the big bills. And as I wrote earlier, if you did it yourself you'd use all of your blue vocabulary up, and then some, changing the little swine.

    Good luck,
    Mike T.

    2002 M-B C 230 K
    1966 Peugeot 404 Coupé Injection
    1989 Peugeot 405
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    I had the same type of issue years ago on a 1970 Mercury Montego MX Brougham. The heater core split causing an awful fogging and smell in the car. After replacing the heater core (not too bad to replace as there was no A/C in the car) all was fine.

    Mike I believe your approach with the sealant may work, but I would be worried about plugging up something else that was designed to stay open. No problem on a '73 Chevy as I've done in the past, but as an owner of a 2000 C230 Sport myself, I'd be hesitant to try that approach on a newer car. I agree that is a good last-ditch effort alternative.

    My advice, bring it to the dealer and have them do their job - testing the cooling system and subsequently replacing all defective parts. They should do this without question if you bought the car in the US and have not yet reached the 50,000 mile warranty expiration mark.

    Good luck, and I'll be interested to hear how it goes as with the same year and model, I may be faced with a similar problem in the future.

    - Paul
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    ...I have the distinct impression that this is a very rare problem indeed in any MB. First time I've heard of a heater box leak in any Mercedes, assuming we are right in our collective diagnosis {how could this much collective wisdom be wrong??}...which may be why the dealer didn't start there, notwithstanding our unanimous verdict on the culprit. We shall see...
  • mac320mac320 Posts: 147
    The smell of antifreeze has everyone thinking; otherwise, if it is something else, using the A/C right up to shutting off the car and then using the blower the next morning when the windows are cold probably could fog the windows with the residual moisture.

    And, when moisture is left in the system all of the time, that probably could cause bad smelling air from bacteria and fungus. I heard in the past that at the start of winter when temperatures drop, people get colds, and it is not just coincidence that drivers turn on their car heaters for the first time in months at that time, i.e., bacteria in the car heaters can cause colds.

    I don't know if this is true, but a cottage industry in health claims due to bad air in buildings has sprung up over the last 3-5 years and I suppose there must be some science behind all this.
  • lg5lg5 Posts: 6
    Let's talk numbers...

    above car with C3, cd changer, sunroof, htd seats in metallic paint: $34,990 includes dest charge. Sound fair or not fair to anyone..??
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    ...says the MSRP for this car is somewhere in the order of $36,445, with a nominal invoice of $33,941, so yes, that sounds like a reasonable offer to me. Everything depends on local context, of course - a competitive marketplace makes all the difference, so where you are can mean everything when it comes to price. In SoCal, for example, it isn't hard to get a car for $500 over invoice on C240s, but with 4Matic being so new, who knows?
  • thanks guys for the insightful responses. I have 35,000 miles on the car with the full warranty. I will make an appointment w/ my service tech and now and will more confident when I sit down to explain (again) the problem. it has been my expericence that they generally are very cagey about offering opinions to a problem you explain to them, almost as if they are told not to acknoldge any problems up front. I will let you know. John
  • All Instock New 2003 C 240s $3000 Off MSRP*.
    That's considerably less than TMV!
    *Does not include government fees or taxes.
This discussion has been closed.