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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Sedans



  • To mbnut1:

    Thanks for the hint on the seat question, I tried switching keys and reprogramming the seats and it seems to work ok now.

    Thanks again!
  • michhalamichhala Posts: 375
    My beautiful, shiny Obsidian Black was keyed from front fender to back. The entire driver's side will need to be repainted. (yes, that is a sob you hear). I need to know if anyone has had good experiences with bodyshops in West Los Angeles or vicinity -- South Bay, Valley, Beverly Hills, Westwood -- somewhere I can get to from Brentwood.

    This is my predicament -- My dealer uses Marina Body Shop for their used/new vehicles, which is also on my insurance company's list, but I have heard a few negatives about them. They are the only one on their list in this vicinity. The plus of using an insurance company provider is that the insurance company guarantees the work for as long as I own the car, which will be a long time.

    The color man who does paint repairs and touchups for my dealer and who comes to my house to do same for me is a paint specialist who worked for many years in a bodyshop in another state. He has recommended a shop in Torrance (Continental), which is close to where he lives. He knows my devotion to my 320 and says he will watch over my car and make sure the work is done properly. He will inspect my car before I pick it up -- he knows I need it perfect :) He told me he has sent several MB and Jag owners from my area and all have been happy with the results. This shop uses Glasurit, which I understand is a high-grade German paint. Obsidian, being metallic, is probably more difficult to work with than non-metallic.

    Also recommended by a friend is Lasky Coachworks in WLA.

    I would really appreciate some optimistic advice from those in my area as to (1) Go with the insurance provider Marina Bodyshop also used by my dealer (2) Go with Continental recommended by my trusted color man (3) or Lasky Coachworks.

    My thanks.

  • mleskovarmleskovar Posts: 171
    Sorry to hear about the vandalism to your car Miki. Thankfully it can be fixed. I would go with can't beat a lifetime warranty. There is no body work to be done so what you see is what you get...or reject. Metalic paint is hard to match. If they try to blend paint and are not successful then you can demand whole panels be painted.
  • michhalamichhala Posts: 375
    Thank you so much, Pat. I guess something had to happen sooner or later -- methinks its Murphy's Law.

    Have a wondrous New Year.

  • michhalamichhala Posts: 375
    Oh yes! mleskover......'tis ironic that the Obsidian C was built for me to replace the Black 320 because its paint was less than perfect.

    My thanks for your wisdom.

    Wishing you and those you love a great New Year!

  • checkmecheckme Posts: 73
    I'd strongly advise that you go with the independent shop that does good work. If they do the job properly, you won't need to take advantage of the warranty. The quality of auto paint jobs varies tremendously from shop to shop; the difference should be discernable by the naked eye.

    You might want to stop by both shops to see examples of freshy painted cars. Make sure to see only cars that haven't been covered with any wax or glaze (many paint shops mask imperfect work by using a glaze, such as Race Glaze, to effectively cover up the defects).

    While all fresh paint jobs tend to look good from afar, the differences become noticable up close. Look closely at the paint job; is it smooth and glassy like a mirror, or does it have little ripples in it (the ripples are known as "orange peel" because they look a lot like the surface of an orange)? Are there any sanding marks left over? Do the newly-painted portions of the car, in your case the sides, flow smoothly into the old portions? Or is there somehow a difference between them, even if you can't put your finger on it? Any imperfection, however small, will only get worse over time. The cars may look similar today, but in five years, you'll see a diffrence, believe me.

    I cannot tell you how much I reccommend going with a quality shop over one which offers a lifetime warranty. The "warranty" only provides a false sense of security; sloppy work is still sloppy work. And suppose the "warranty" shop does give you a fresh paint job in five years (you should not need one, but suppose they do)? Odds are you'll just get another sloppy paint job! Put another way, Hyundai offers a 10-year warranty. The XG350 is about the same size as the C-Class, and may be a little bigger. It offers many of the luxury features that the C-Class offers, has a longer warranty, and costs a whole lot less. You didn't buy one, though, becuase quality is important!
  • michhalamichhala Posts: 375
    Well, checkme, you gave me a lot of food for thought, along with good advice. After much soul-searching, I decided not to go with the provider on the insurance company's list, because I checked them out and heard only negatives about them. I have also decided not to use the body shop recommended by my trusted color man because it is simply too far and a hassle to get there. I am going to the very highly recommended Lasky Coachworks -- 10 minutes, if I find any orange peel or flaws, I am close enough to take a run over there. Their clientele list shows me they are worthy enough to work on my C320, and their facility is very impressive.

    Most of the body shops I have seen are very crowded, crazy and hectic -- I dreaded going to them and hated leaving my car with them. This one is just the opposite. The owners are local and car collectors.

    Thanks for your advice.


  • checkmecheckme Posts: 73
    Great! You won't regret it. Just wait a few years- your C-Class will look a whole lot better than most others.
  • michhalamichhala Posts: 375
    checkme -- I sure do hope so, because I am very particular about the care given to my car. The car will probably go in the shop on Monday, and I will let everyone know if I am :-) or :'-( with the outcome.

  • The seat will not move back if less than some percentage of travel is available. (50% I think)

    I had the same issue until my Salesman pointed this out. I have since turned off the seat retraction feature for my key to save a little wear and tear on the seat motor.
  • I should qualify as an expert on this issue. I have just returned from a 2500 mile trip from Raleigh NC to central Wisconsin and than return via Dubueque IA. 1150 miles the first day 17.5 hours of seat time. 1030 miles on the last day in 15.5 hours.

    While I got somewhat saddlesore, it really was not all that bad. I have a chronic bad back and did not expeirence any back pains at all.

    I did try and adjust the seat to a new position every couple of hours and that really seemed to help.

    25.5 MPG overall and average speed of 67 MPH.

    This is our second C (2001 C240 and now a 2002 C320 Sportwagon) and it has been great overall. My wife is the primary driver and she loves the rock solid feel of the car.

    Miki----Sorry about your car. It was probably one of those lowlife Kings fans!!!
  • mleskovarmleskovar Posts: 171
    I hope the ordeal is minimal and the results are to your satisfaction. It's a crap shoot no matter where you go unless you have a prior relationship...
  • merc1merc1 Posts: 6,081
    Well a many here have talking about the C-Class Sport models not being offered anymore, well Mercedes just re-introduced them. There is a new C230 Sport Sedan and a new C320 Coupe (hatchback):


  • michhalamichhala Posts: 375
    >>Miki----Sorry about your car. It was probably one of those lowlife Kings fans!!!

    Come to think of it.......I was wearing my purple and gold leather Lakers jacket that night!!! Thank you for your sympathy :)...the Kings sure are playing good basketball, though, aren't they!!!

  • michhalamichhala Posts: 375
    >>I hope the ordeal is minimal and the results are to your satisfaction. It's a crap shoot no matter where you go unless you have a prior relationship...

    Thank you so much, kind sir. I am working on the relationship as we speak! :)

  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    Hi Miki,

    Sorry to hear about your car! Hope the shop you are going to does a perfect job for you, and you will never be able to tell the difference when they are done. I look forward to hearing about your experience.

    Hope the new year holds better luck for all of us. Enjoy sunny southern Cal. - it snowed here again in Boston today (at least my C230 is off the road until mid-March). Take care!

    - Paul
  • mbgambga Posts: 11
    I've had my C a year, but only recently took a somewhat long (1000 miles over three days) trip in it: very happy with the seats! They have always struck me as firm, but comfortable. I think this is ideal.

    On the same trip I drove my father's '98 town car for a few hundred miles. Big difference. Of course the seats are plush, but too much so. And forget about the drive feel. It has a switch to adjust the steering feel from low to high. It was on high, so based on the ride I thought it meant "high assist", but switching to low told me it was high feel.

    Anyway, I think the seats are well formed and provide support, but those needing additional low back support should get the adjustable lumbar.
  • tclawtclaw Posts: 23
    Many of you seem to know a great deal about what makes these C-Class cars tick. Well, the tail lights, both sides, just stopped working on my '01 C-320, and I'd rather not put up with the hassle of leaving the car at the dealer. Any suggestions about what could be the problem? The brake lights do work. There's no malfunction message on the dash display. If it were a fuse, would there be other outages?
  • 404c404c Posts: 146
    The first obvious step, that you alluded to, is to check the fuses in the trunk area (I assume the sedan has them there too - the Sportcoupé does). The second thing is to check the bulbs themselves (highly unlikely these are the problem). The C is supposed to have automatic lamp substitution, so that if a bulb fails, another illuminates in its place. Clearly that function is not working either, which is cause for major concern. That your dash display did not indicate a problem is another indication of major electrical trouble. I'm afraid that you'll have to have the dealer sort this out. Even if a fuse is blown and the new one holds, I'd wonder why it blew in the first place. Blowing a fuse is never normal. They are there only to prevent shorts from causing fires.

    I have to say that the last time I saw a car driving with no taillights was in the 1970s, a Vauxhall Firenza. Those things had evil electrical systems. It sounds as though the C Class is also occasionally host to the ghost of Lucas ;-)
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