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Buick Regal

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  • my 98 buick regal has alot of problems need help!!!!!! my abs brake sensor light is on and brake light will go on and off. low coolant will stay on. assuming thats the thermostat. check engine light. ??? need a supercharger rebuilding kit. coupler in there is goin out. tranny is the most of my issues tho. i seem to have every problem people are talkin about. it shifts hard at about 40-50 and so on. also it willl shut off on me in the blue? wtf :cry:
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    I believe the low coolant light remaining on indicates a faulty sensor, which may be in the coolant recovery tank. Mine has been doing the same thing for awhile (will be lit for a month, then hit a bump in the road and go off) . As long as you aren't losing coolant or overheating should be okay.
  • I have 1996 Buick regal. Ok look at GM bullitin, GM has issue with coolent system because 3800 series engine and heating issue. Since engine heats, it start effecting cooling system too. By brother had hydrolock, when coolent went leaking into the engine head gasket and engine locked up.

    My car had issue where one of plastic elbow for coolent circuation cracked and lost lots of coolent, cost me 500.00 to fix the issue.

    Then like your problem, coolent sensor was showing low coolent and GM deler was not able to disnose the issue. Got tired of, I changed the sensor my self and also changed the radiator cap also. Buy GM part, do not buy after market part. That revolved the issue for two years and now the low coolent sensor light is back on.

    Engine light On, yes I have the same issue. I changed the Vaccume switch and the solonoid 5 years ago and now I have the same issue.

    I took it ot the dealer the tech say that it is vaccume switch, then I called the service manager to ask why the switch failed again. He said it could be solonoid too.

    So bottom line is, the dealer technician does not know 100% if the issue is Vaccume swicth or teh solonoid. I have scanner at home, the code I get for the faul is P0441.

    So I have given up for the incompinent GM dealer tech. I will change then both and see if that fixes the problem.

    That is all I have to say. Good luck.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,534
    >My car had issue where one of plastic elbow for coolent circuation cracked and lost lots of coolent, cost me 500.00 to fix the issue.

    Sounds like you got taken if this actually happened. The coolant elbows are available from Dorman, often on the HELP rack at auto stores, for $5 or less for both along with the o-rings. About 1 hour labor to remove the tensioner and its bracket: $80. So $85 should have fixed it!!! Take a look at your bill to see what else they hosed you for!!!

    >By brother had hydrolock, when coolent went leaking into the engine head gasket and engine locked up.

    If the motor had hydrolock due to coolant leaking into cylinder (happens on lots of cars especially with head gasket leaks), that meant he wasn't checking his coolant level regularly, say weekly. The gaskets don't start leaking overnight!!! So this was preventable by checking your car for proper fluid levels, both in the coolant reservoir and inside the radiator.

    This sounds to me like blaming the car for owner neglect and the problems it can cause.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Then like your problem, coolent sensor was showing low coolent and GM deler was not able to disnose the issue. Got tired of, I changed the sensor my self

    How do you change the sensor? If it is cheap and easy I'll do it myself, otherwise I'll just live with it.
  • I am in desperate need of a diagram for a 92 buick regal steering column or instructions on how to take it apart. It is my daughters car and she needs it running ASAP in order to get back and forth to work and to get her five year old back and forth to school. The key would not turn in the ignition stranding the vehicle 150 miles from home. Thus a "friend" tried to "disengage" the ignition but it seems that something may be broken off inside. We have no manual and have tried to locate one to no avail. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. :cry:
  • My 2002 Buick regal driver window goes down ignition is turned on.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,534
    Without an exact diagram of the electrical wiring for that model, one of two things may be happening. The power windows may be controlled by a small control that operates the windows at all 4 doors and operates the door locks as well. Do the others all respond correctly?

    If not, the problem may be that actual control box has failed. On leSabres and other H-body cars, it's inside the driver's door. Requires removing the door panel covering the interior.

    The other possibility is a stuck window switch. Does the window go up and down in response to the window switch, once it has done that down cycle when key is turned on? Does it do the same thing in ACC as it does in the ON position?

    The contacts inside the window switch may have corroded or the wires below that tell the control box what you are requesting may be shorted under the switch. Try moving the switch a lot both directions to make the contacts rub and clean.

    A cure would be to remove the breaker or the fuse for the power windows to keep it from cycling down until you can repair it.

    Good luck.
  • ezingezing Posts: 1
    The problems on my 1991 started around 30K. The alternators go out, The brake calipers have a defective bolt. After about 70 K the planned obselence things start to give you door lock, electric window, electric auntenna, heater core hose failures. They there is the fun with gasket leaks. Get ready for the transmission to have to be replaced. Yep after 105K about $8000 has been spent on repairs.
  • jay_mjay_m Posts: 8
    Hmm- I must be so lucky...

    Two Centurys- an '89 and a '93. Both had the 3300 motors.
    New alternators at about 100k, water pump at 120k.
    Brakes from time to time- rear drums didn't hold up all that well, front disks did pretty well.
    Never had problems with calipers (slides or bolts)
    Never had probs with power windows, seats, or trans. (except vacuum modulator on '94). A/C compressor died on the 89 at 150k or so. Paint peeling, CV joints were getting rough, I sold it. It ran for years after that, to my knowledge. I sold the 93 cheap with 150-160k when I got my 03 Regal. It was a retired rentacar with 22k miles.
    The 03 now has 190k miles with original almost everything. (changed cat converter and O2 sensor, and headlight high beam switch)
    Am on second set of rear brake pads, about fourth set of front pads. Nest brake job I'll replace the factory rotors, they're getting pretty worn.
    Planned obsolescence? I don't think so.
    Jay
  • mnmkyfmnmkyf Posts: 3
    I have the same problem with my '03. Replaced the module (switch) twice. Covered under warranty the first time, don't remember the cost the second time. GM is aware of this and ignition problems, but won't stand behind their product.
  • abutcherabutcher Posts: 33
    bobakamarv, I would replace the starter cable.
  • abutcherabutcher Posts: 33
    I have a 2001 Regal and the left rear door window swith will not operate the window up or down. I can put it up or down with the driver switch.

    I swapped the switch with the right rear switch and the switch works on the right door, and the right door switch still does not operate the left rear window, so the switch is not the problem either.

    Any suggestions?
  • Hello everyone, I have a problem with a 1991 Buick regal with the 3.8. The car will start once every few days and run for 5 to 7 minutes then shut off with no sputtering or anything and will not restart for another day or two.

    The car has 81k on it and the engine has been replaced with a 91 LeSaber 3.8 with the same approximant mileage. The car ran fine until the little magnet on the camshaft gear fell off. As I did not need the car just then, I left it sit for about 6 – 8 months before repairing it. When I replaced the magnet, I also lifted the engine up enough to remove the oil pan so I could repair a dent and replace the leaking pan gasket. Once it was back together, it ran fine…. for a while. After about 3 weeks, it started to shut off occasionally while driving. It would restart easily. The problem progressed gradually until about 3 months later when I did not trust it to even leave the yard. I tried to correct the problem as it continued to get worse and worse, now, I’m out of ideas.

    I know that the problem seems to be that the injectors are shutting down. When it shuts off and I try to restart it, the plugs are dry even after several minutes of spinning the starter. Sometimes, but not always, when it shuts off the charcoal canister purge valve is clicking like crazy. I also noticed that rarely the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator to the intake manifold block is collapsed. It used to run for a bit if I sprayed it with starting fluid but sputtered and staled out in a short time. I should mention that there are never any error codes when this happens and the check engine light does work. On occasion when it is running and I’m in the car, it seems that if I’m giving it gas, it runs a little longer than if I let it sit and idle but I’m not real sure that this is the case.

    So far I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pressure relay, fuel pressure regulator, computer, charcoal canister purge valve and the mass air flow sensor. Nothing has seemed to make any difference. I’ve checked the gas cap and the vacuum hoses from the purge valve to the tank and there is no blockage. There are no vacuum leaks either.

    I’ve been working on cars for nearly 30 years and this has me totally stumped. I may have tried a few other minor things or replaced other minor parts but what I have listed is all I can think of currently. I’m thinking I have an electrical or vacuum problem. I’m also thinking of having a Buick bonfire in the near future. Any help or thoughts on this problem would be greatly appreciated. I’m nearly ready to just get rid of the car and would have by now but it is in excellent shape and I never thought I would have put so much money into it and have the problem just get worse. Thank you.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,534
    You need to verify if it's electronic. Spark? Injectors?

    Crankshaft position sensor would be my thinking. Lots of people have had trouble.
  • How would I go about this, the car has spark and I doubt all 6 injectors would fail at the exact same time only to work the next day for another 5 minutes. Would the crankshaft sensor fail intermitantly like that? When this all started I has also replaced the control modual under the coil pack thinking it might be faulty and sending some kind of shut down signal to the ECM
  • So I replaced my heads after a hydro lock. Hydro lock happened after engine was shut off. Ended up having to replace my TPS sensor as well... My mistake I installed it wrong. Next I replaced my o2 sensor because I got I think it was an 1133 code. That fixed my stalling after 5 minuts of running problem. Now I am getting a code I haven't read it yet... Anyway when I am on the freeway going around 70 add a little gas it sputter till I get up to crusing speed again. Any ideas. I cannot the engine sounds fairly good. Not black smoke and no eating of fluids although it seems to be running a little hot so I think I may have a lean conditions I have a feeling the code will be o2 again But will post as soon as I find out. Just wanted to get this out there. I am thinking of renting a fuel pressure tester. Let me know your thoughts.

    *Added info... Just got the code. P0171 on bank 1 so... My understanding of that is that is on cyl 1 or plug 1? No other codes.. Code just be a plugged injector but that would cause a misfire right? In case you are wondering this is a 96 buick regal 3800 series engine.
  • I didn't see any of the other threads, but your computer is not throwing any codes? Have you done a pressure test on your fuel?
  • Correct, computer is not throwing a single code. I had a remanfactured ECM in it and just for kicks I went and pulled another ECM out of a salvage yard, car does the darn thing. After it shut down recently, I pulled the fuel pressure regulator and there was gas in the rail under the regulator. I replaced the regulator with a known good one and the car would still not restart. Its been about 2 days now so I'm thinking of going out and starting it again this time being sure to hold the gas pedal down to maintain a very fast idel. I suspect that if it runs longer than 5 to 7 min without shutting off, it will no doubt die as soon as I release the gas. Will post the results.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,534
    You've replaced the fuel pump. But I'd rent or borrow at a local Autozone a fuel pressure gauge and install it to watch what happens while the car is running (when it feels like starting or when cranking).

    I'd replace the collapsing vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator.

    I'd connect a little light bulb, the little marker bulbs with two wires for contacts, into the injector on one of the cylinders while cranking when it won't start. See if you're getting a good flash with each pulse of the injector.

    Related to that is the main computer. I would think about replacing it or switching if you know someone with a running version of your car.

    But the clicking after the car shuts off sometimes might be a sign of low battery voltage or a poor connection. Is the battery fully charged? Are connections clean?

    Have you taken off a plug wire and put a spark plug on grounded to the engine and looked at the spark while it's cranking?
  • Just curious have you done a fuel pressure test? I am dealing with a lean condition on mine and I have no idea at this point what it might be. I just took my fuel rail out and blew out the injector. Next I am going to do a fuel pressure test. only thing on mine I can think of at this point is fuel pressure regulator.Just curious and I don't work on cars but if I am not mistaken you can by obd which hook into the computers and have advanced diagnostics which can tell you what different things are doing... It may help you to do that. Let me know what it was in the end.
  • I recently lost all my water in the engine. So instead of just replaceing one thing I took it down to the heads. Had the heads milled and a valve job done. I replaced the manifold gasket as well as the entire plenum. I later found out the plenum is a real issue in these vehicles. Anyway it is running but bank 1 is running a lean condition. Any ideas? I am aiming towards injectors but don't want to pay for new one unless I am sure. I blew the injectors out today but unsure if that will really do anything as it is a sealed unit well until voltage is applied. At least it appears to be a sealed unit. Please any suggestions are welcome. One thing on start up it "shutters" and sputters and on the frreeway around 70 when applying gas it bogs down. This is a 96 buick reagle 3.8. Replaced O2 sensors as well as the throttle position sensor. Thanks in advance
  • ronbuick91ronbuick91 Posts: 4
    edited April 2010
    "I'd replace the collapsing vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. "
    All vacuum lines and the fuel pressure regulator have been replaced

    "I'd connect a little light bulb, the little marker bulbs with two wires for contacts, into the injector on one of the cylinders while cranking when it won't start. See if you're getting a good flash with each pulse of the injector. "
    This I have not tried and will give it a go.

    " Related to that is the main computer. I would think about replacing it or switching if you know someone with a running version of your car. "
    Computer has been replaced twice. Once with a rebuild one and with one from a known running car, no difference.

    The car does have spark while it is cranking, just no fuel. I'll try to other items you mentioned and report back, thankyou
    I've replaced the Engine Control Computer twice now with no difference in the problem and still no error codes displayed.

    "But the clicking after the car shuts off sometimes might be a sign of low battery voltage or a poor connection. Is the battery fully charged? Are connections clean?"
    Battery is fully charged and about 1 year old. It will continue to crank the car for at least 20 min or more after the car shuts down.
  • outatimeoutatime Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    i have a 98 buick regal gs, recently began smelling coolant in the cabin, regardless of the heater/ac control settings. No detectable smell out side of car, no visible leak or pooling under car, no noticeable loss of coolant over time, no wet carpet or visible leaking into the cabin. im stumped!
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Dealership quoted me a price of $189 for plugs and recalibration of something. Back plugs look to be a little tight to get to.Prrce seems pretty steep. Any thoughts?
  • Okay got a little problem with my car. Okay I had a problem with my lower intake seal as I guess everyone has. So as I was that deep in the engine I went ahead and had a head and valve job. The heads passed. Put it all back together. Went about 30 miles received a misfire on Cylinder 5. Now hundred miles later it is Sending smoke out the tail pipe. It appears to be a white smoke. Goes into the air. Here is the other thing... It starts fine and idles fine until it starts to gain pressure. Then it starts surging... 2500 Rpm 500rpm up and down then eventually stalls. Wondering if my Head gasket had a failure again.. Any ideas? any good way to test? :sick:
  • Hello, I have a 1992 Buick Regal with the 3.8 motor which has a slight hesitation at idle, it will run for awhile and then shut down. It smells rich of fuel and when you pull the plugs they are wet. The fuel pressure test good at 41psi, when ohming out the coils they seem all consistant at .05ohms. Which I cant see all three of them going bad at the same time. The ignition module, Tps sensor, o2 sensor, Knock sensor, camshaft position sensor, plugs, and plug wires have all been replaced with new. If you leave it sit for awhile and go back, it will start back up and then have the same symptoms. When putting in the new plugs and wires, I verified that the plugs were gapped correctly and then sparking good by leaning one on the side of the block. They worked good for a bit and then fouled again. No codes have been thrown either on the obd 1. I sprayed some fluid around upper intake manifold to see if the I could catch some type of vaccum leak or gasket failure to no luck,,,Upper intake manifold is aluminum and I dont believe these are the ones in question for gasket and manifold failure........ANY HELP WOULD GREATLY BE APPRECIATED!!!!
  • I have just recently had a post similar to yours before reading this,,,,I have almost identical problems but noticed my plugs are wet....Just wondering if you figured out your problem yet?
    Thanks
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,168
    Hello Erwisneki,
    I apologize that you are experiencing concerns with your vehicle. Unfortunately, I cannot diagnose your vehicle. However we are here if you have any questions, or if you need a dealer referral. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • tvollytvolly Posts: 2
    I have just paid $250 to have one spark plug changed it failed on the road. I would like to change out the rest myself as the mechanic wants another 250 to replace them as a retiree that a lot of cash. Could you good people out there give me guidence and any traps that there may be
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