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Buick Regal

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Comments

  • erwisneskierwisneski Posts: 18
    Most are simple up front. The biggest difficulty are the ones in back and especially the one that is right next to the O2 sensor. Also I will say if it is anything like mine the wires will be tuff to get off the first time. I would advise you to change the wires at the same time. If you do choose to do the wires, do one at a time so you don't mix up the fireing order. Just compare the lengths. Best of luck!
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    You got screwed. My Buick dealership wanted $189 to change out all 6 plugs.
  • tvollytvolly Posts: 2
    thanks a bunch for the info
  • abutcherabutcher Posts: 33
    Sounds like a heater core leak.
  • abutcherabutcher Posts: 33
    edited May 2010
    So my check engine light comes on after my fuel gage goes to 3/4 or less on my 2001 Regal, non supercharged 3.8 liter. It throws a code P0440 which is evaporative emission control system. If I keep the tank full to 3/4 full, it eventually shuts off and stays off. I tried a new gas cap but it didn't fix the problem.

    Any idea what it could be? Thanks!
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Just a guess.. low pressure from fuel pump.
  • I know you posted this a long time ago,. but did you ever find out the cause to your heater and a/c problem? I am having the same problem with my Buick, a 2000 Regal LSE. The heater and a/c work fine for about the first 40 minutes, then they stop working. The car has 162K miles on it and I have had this problem for about 3 or 4 years. Other than this problem, the car has been a true gem and have been very happy with it. It runs like the day I bought it.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,148
    What do you find when you stop the car, raise the hood, and analyze?

    Is the compressor clutch engaged and the compressor turning?
    Is the small tube from the compressor to the condensor HOT?
    Is the large tube coming back from the evaporator in the car COLD?

    If the compressor is turning and the tubes cold and hot appropriately, is the air inside the car coming out the dash vents or has it switched to the defroster? IF the car uses vacuum to control the air flow in the HVAC box, the vacuum may be lost due to back rubber connections under the hood, or due to the vacuum reservoir being cracked, etc.

    I do not know if the HVAC box uses all electric actuators or if it does have vacuum. I do know the leSabres up to 1999 had electric to control the blend doors and used vacuum elsewhere. The vacuum connector on the corner of the programmer box on the heater would soften with age and the openings would suck shut. Usually the one for the blue vacuum line going to the door turning off the defroster and forcing air out the dash vent was the one first noticed. No vacuum, the cooled air comes out the defroster.
  • Steve
    to change that starter you have to remove the fans, loosen the ac compressor,coolant overflow tank and if you have a helper have them help hold the compressor and lines as far out of the way as you can. remove the starter bolts one from the front side then the other from the rear of the cross member. with some effort you should then be able to get it out under the ac and trans coolant lines. I've bone this and its a tight fit in and out.
    ps. remember to replace the shims! good luck
  • When I turn my heat or air on the blower motor just vibrates and makes noise. It will vibrate 2 to 3 times and then shuts off. When it shuts off it sounds like theres is a vent being closed or something to that extent. There isn't any air coming out when the motor does this and it happened all of a sudden . Any help would be appreciated with this as being winter and not able to defrost my windshield and dont have heat except from it coming as I'm driving down the road. One more thing, when I turn the blower motor on it affects the steering as it seems tighter like manual steering.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    I have a 1999 Buick Regal LS with 108k miles. About a week ago, when coming to a stoplight, after hard acceleration, the engine started stumbling, with rpm's jumping down. After about 30 seconds of this the CEL came on. Ran car 20 seconds more and symptoms disappeared.

    I had the code read at AutoZone, which indicated a fouled EGR valve. Took it to the shop. They said they'd need to run diagnostics at $89. Fine. They come back say the EGR is "clean as a whistle", that there was probably some carbon in the EGR valve that didn't allow a proper vacuum seal, and that it passed through. Everything fine they say.

    Today, same symptoms. Slowing down after moderate acceleration (in a hurry) the engine started stumbling a bit, like it may die. Happened for 45 seconds again, then cleared up. So question is, more carbon in EGR valve...or something else? I did put some Gumout cleaning solution in gas tank a couple weeks before this happened, could this have loosened up some gunk? Thanks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,148
    My car gave occasional symptoms of a really bad idle coming to stoplights. A little gas sped up the motor enough to smooth it out and the symptoms were gone. Happened a couple months later. Then a week later. I tried cleaning the EGR valve pintle. Didn't help.

    Then I cleaned the interior of the valve where the gases go in using a small brush and a liquid cleaner. I may have used gasoline or mineral spirits. Do not turn valve upside down so that solvent runs into the part that has the motors that move things. I soaked it sitting in a small bowl of the stuff to soak the interior.

    But I kept brushing using a plastic bristle brush and brass wire small brush from Harbor Freight. The rod that moves through the tight seal area inside that goes to the motors gets bound up with carbon.

    If you have 3/8 inch drive tool set that is metric your can undo the two nuts. Unsnap the electric connection. And the thing lifts up. The gasket almost always is okay. Just replace same position it's in.

    Thing has worked perfectly since the thorough cleaning on my 1998 leSabre with 180,000.
  • antoose1antoose1 Posts: 1
    Hello just wondering if you fixed the problem? my car is doing the samething. please let me no.Thank you.
  • k8ysek8yse Posts: 4
    Change the fuel pressure regulator. My pressure seemed
    rock solid but it is vacuum controlled and there was apparently
    a vacuum leak in the unit which caused the stalling. Once replaced,
    no more stalling.
  • lowet123lowet123 Posts: 1
    Did you resolve your intermittent starting problem with a new battery cable, if not did you find another cause?
  • jimd1966jimd1966 Posts: 4
    Trying to figure this out. Have water coming from out of my blower motor every time I turn my AC on. Took blower out and a small thing that looked like an evaporator but not sure. still cant figure out where all this water is coming from. I have even gone as far as putting something up underneath to catch water but it doesnt help. Everytime I turn a corner more water comes out and afraid it's going to short something out or cause some serious damage./
    CAN ANYBODY HELP PLEASE!!!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,148
    Most likely problem is your drain tube for the water that condenses off the cold AC coils. There's a rubber tube that comes through the floor and is at the bottom of the firewall behind the motor. If you push something up into that tube, it most likely will let go of a flood of water that's been blocked by goop in the tube.

    The rubber tube is likely 4-6 inches long and has some kind of lips that close to keep air from coming in and that keeps water from coming out until there's a bit of water in the tube. When that weight gets great enough, the lips are forced open and water comes out. It should not back up to the level of the inside of the HVAC box.

    Because you directly tie the water to the case holding the AC and heater coils, that would be my primary guess.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,076
    jimd1966,

    I apologize for the water problem you are experiencing. Please keep us posted when the issue has been taken care of.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • brad88brad88 Posts: 1
    i had the same problem i pulled everthing out of the car and replaced it by anyway just to be simple move the waterpump first go to fasnal to get bolts to fit the water pump holes. then replace the crankshaft position center ur car was doing exactly what mine did
  • jimd1966jimd1966 Posts: 4
    Sorry it took so long to respond I will try that. Sounds like I will be jacking the car up to find it. Hope it solves the issue, I will keep you posted. Thank you so much for your advice.
  • jme4jme4 Posts: 3
    replaced the starter but the car still won't start on it's own just clicks... checked the battery and all terminal connections and all look good and tight. Will start no problem when hooked to another vehicle don't know if this vehicle has an inline sensor, or a fusable link to the stater!! computer scan shows no trouble codes... Any ideas would be helpful!!!
  • jme4jme4 Posts: 3
    it's an 03 Buick regal...
  • check your solenoid
  • Update,
    Hopefully got everything fixed. Found the drain hose on firewall and stuck wire up into tube and water started coming out even though I didn't have anything else come out that was obstructing the water flow. I will find out tomorrow if it's fixed. would like to thank imidazol97
    for your help and advice.
  • Check the tie rod ends for wear. The driverside one on my Regal wore out at 50K miles. Replacing it stopped the shimmy.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,013

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • j_d1j_d1 Posts: 1
    Have you replaced the EGR valve?
  • Changing leaky elbows on belt tensioner. I had to remove fan from radiator, PIA job. Buick cleverly forgot to put a drain plug in the radiator.
    When re assembling rinsed K&M filter with tap water. Did not dry properly, when re installed it (apparently) dripped water onto ECM/PCM. I tried drying but until it sat over night it didn't dry out. I did replace MAP first but that had no effect.
    So for all those with stalling, rough idle, surging or just shutting off, I would check & clean the connections at the ECM/PCM as it is in the air box in the from of the car.
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