Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Buick Regal

1128129131133134167

Comments

  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    If you look at the GS model at 90,000 miles or so assure that the plugs get chnaged (100,000 mile plugs but let them do it) and the coolant and the ranny fluid. Also the passenger air filter. (amazing how many dealers (GM but not Buick, do not know this exists) Have them change the SC oil (easy to do but have them do it) I had 1 2000 with 62,000 miles, grat engine, it was a co. cart and I lost it so I went out and found a 2000 GS with 25,000 miles. The 3.8L is a GM workhorse and the SC I do not feel adds any conncers on reliabiltiy.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    "grat engine, it was a co. cart and I lost"???

    English is a very difficult language.
  • tonyf2tonyf2 Posts: 24
    Pulsating brakes-
    I took the car to the dealer today and they told me I had two problems, the rear rotors had to be turned down and my right front tire had the belts shifted. These are the original Firestone 680 tires. It so happens the front tires are almost new.

    It took them about an hour to cut the rotors. The brakes now work fine.

    I had another problem over the week end with my wife's '98 regal. I was on the GSP going to the shore doing the speed limit (65/70mph) when I lost power with my power steering. I was lucky to be able to pull over to the shoulder and stop.

    When I lifted the hood I found the belt all shredded and the idler pully gone. I had to get towed off and to a local gas station to have it repaired. This was a very scary situation
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Sorry about the Firestones...Probably the last choice I would make for a tire...Well, maybe not even a choice...
  • tonyf2tonyf2 Posts: 24
    I replaced all four tires yesterday on both mine and my wife's car with Michelin "harmony" tires.

    Both cars ride better now than when they were new. I'm going to Cape Cod next week, I'm going to enjoy the ride.
  • verdi942verdi942 Posts: 304
    On a recent 70 mph run to the shore and back, I clocked 290 miles on just 7.6 gallons. That's 38 mpg +! Take that you DOHC high-revvin' imports!
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    I had a 2000 Buick GSE with the 3.8L SC engine. Had to give it up but that engine was smooth and very quiet, had 60,000 miles on it. I replaced it with another 2000 GS with only 25,000 miles.

    However, when hot this one has a noticeable clacking noise which is stronger on the passenger side tire well. Could be water pump, or pulley bearings but to me sounds more like push rods clacking away etc. Disturbing as the other 3.8L was quiet.

    Anyone out there have a similar noise with their 3.8L. Quiet when cold, only seems to be there with the engine hot after at least 10 miles of driving.?
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    When you have hood up, where does the sound come from?

    Or is is just when car is moving?
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Loudest is when you place your ear near the passenger tire. Occurs all the time, can only be heard when at idle or in gear not moving and engine hot When you are driving all other noises drown it out and increasing the engine RPMs also eliminates the noise as well.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,683
    Since it seems to increase with a hot engine, could it be the oil thinning that's letting a clogged lifter make noise? Is 10-30 oil in it? Has the car been maintained with proper oil changes? IF you just bought the car and haven't had an oil change and IF you believe it's lifters, I'd change the oil at 1000 miles a couple of times and use a top quality oil for the additive packages to clean it out. (Myself, I'd add Rislone to it for a couple hundred miles then change it.)

    To eliminate extras on the engine making the noise, take off the serpentine belt and run it for a short half-minute when it's making the noise. See if the noise stops when the belt's not turning the water pump, idler pulley, alternator, powersteering, air conditioning pulley. You might spin the pulleys on those items by hand to see if there's extra noise when they turn without load.
    Do not run the engine more than a few seconds without the belt for the waterpump.

    This message has been approved.

  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    My wife and I own Gran Sports. Her '00 seems much faster off-the-line than my '98. Her's has 35,000 miles and mine has 53,000. The throttle response at idle also appears to be much better with her's than mine. Both cars have never had a tune-up. I wonder if worn spark plugs or a clogged PCV could cause this problem? Both cars have been using Shell's V-Power gas, so I think I can rule out dirty fuel injectors. I recently had my tranny overhauled, but even that didn't seem to help. Both cars are getting maximum S/C boosts of 6-7 PSI. I was thinking of taking it to our Buick dealer for a complete engine diagnosis. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    Clogged air filter? 15k miles service.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,683
    1. Clear the computer in the 00 car. Disconnect the fuse for the computer for several minutes. Check to determine proper fuse, it may be in service center under the hood and NOT the fuse in the passenger compartment that is labeled in some way for the main computer.

    2. Check on the transmission ratios for the models in each car. One may have a much different lower gear ratio than the other, giving a much m"quicker" feel to the takeoff.

    3. Check on the final drive ratio for the cars.

    This message has been approved.

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,683
    Also I changed my 100K plugs at 45K or so. It's cheap insurance. Also changed wires at 80K.

    You may have carbon buildup. Higher octane burns more slowly leaving more carbon residue. This is according to some radio mechanics I listen to. Especially a problem for the gullable American male who buys the advertising that more power comes from higher octane -- in cars meant to use regular. Yours are supposed to use higher octane -- plus or premium.

    I use Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner occasionally. Follow directions on the plastic bottle. Use when tank is almost empty. Fill up with premium. Run low. Then use another bottle with fillup. This according to high quality mechanic on Cincy talk radio -- he owns his own shop in premium part of town.

    If car is driven on shorter trips rather than on 50mile or more high speed interstate trips, try a longer trip with it. Along with cleaner in fuel, that might bring back the original kick to the engine. Carbon buildup could be causing knock retarding the spark. My cars always run better when I get home from a long trip on vacation or weekend.

    This message has been approved.

  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    Thanks to everyone who responded with the great suggestions. I think I can rule out a clogged air filter, because I installed K&N filters in both cars last year. I'll call the dealer for an answer about the gear ratios for the '98 and '00 trannies. I'll try disconnecting the fuse for the '98 car's computer, and take it on a 50 mile highway trip. V-Power gas is supposed to clean intake valves as well as injectors, but I'll also try the Chevron F.S.C. as well. If these steps don't work, I'll get the plugs changed.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,683
    Let me be clear about my changing the 100K plugs at 45 or 50K. They probably are firing properly, but as the gap slowly widens on the platinum-tipped plugs, the load on the ignition coils increases. In the past this occasionally increased the chance of a coil problem, or faster deterioration of the plug wire's carbon centers.

    I change them early just to avoid this. The expense of changing the $6 plugs early by doing it myself i trivial. If you change your own, you may want to do it early. If you pay a garage to do it, you may want to wait longer.

    This message has been approved.

  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    Thanks for the tip imidazol. I checked on the final gear ratio for the 4T65EHD tranny (L67 engine). Here's a quote from a FAQ that was posted at Thrasher Engineering's website:

    "You're correct on the final drive ratios, but all 4T65e transaxles actually have the same 3.29:1 ratio differential. Yes, we know that the GT has a final drive of 3.29:1 and the GTP has a 2.93:1 final drive (in fact, all L67 3800 SC engines, and hence MN7 transmissions, have this 2.93:1 final drive - the Comp G's 3800 SC engine is actually known as the L26). So how is this done? It's all in the ratio of the chain sprockets, not in the differential."
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    With regard to PCM relearn...You can pull the PCM/ECM fuse or just disconnect the negative wire from battery...Several minutes won't do anything...You should leave it off for about 3 hours [overnight is good too]...

    Don't use Shell gas...I've heard form more than a few mechanics that it is the worse gas out there...A Buick mechanic was one of them...

    You might want to install Autolite 605 or AC Delco 41-932 plugs which are one range colder...You didn't mention whether you change your own plugs...

    And if you want to go faster there are several after market suppliers of speed equipment, like Intense-racing, ZZPerformance that can change your car from a 15 second 1/4 mile car to a 12 second car...
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,683
    I didn't suggest the battery because you have to reset radio buttons and memory seats and, I'm not sure on his year and model, remotes for the keyless entry system?

    This message has been approved.

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,683
    I've used Shell gas for 4 or 5 years along with Mobil the last two years. No problems. Early on I bought at a regional department store whose gas was Marathon parent company from what I could tell.

    This message has been approved.

Sign In or Register to comment.