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Buick Regal

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Comments

  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You might also want to stop by our Speed Shop: Tuning & Modification board and ask about that - welcome and good luck.
  • brian22brian22 Posts: 2
    Have you had the Starter checked? My mechanic told me that you can tap the starter on the side with a hammer a few times to loosen it if that is the problem.
  • brian22brian22 Posts: 2
    I recently bought a 1990 Buick Regal GS. It has two 10 amp fuses for the fuel injection system and one of them has to be pulled out for the car to run. I took it to a mechanic who installed a new fuel pump, new computer and checked all the fuel lines but it came down to the fuel injection. When the car is running with only one fuse it has very little power, once the second fuse is put it the car slowly dies because the fuel injectors shut off. Neither of us have a clue as to how this happened or where the problem could be. Anyone have any ideas?
  • My son has a 94 Buick Regal with a 3.8 litre engine.
    Recently, the car stopped running (while on the road). He had it towed to work. When he tried again, it started and ran for a day. Then it quit again.
    Troubleshooting revealed that there was no spark. He replaced the crank sensor and ignition module, but this didn't fix the problem. He suspects that there might be a problem with the ignition key chip/computer, but he's not sure how to check this, and doesn't want to throw any more parts at the problem. He tried reading the trouble code using the "check engine" light, but no trouble codes flashed (perhaps he's not initiating the sequence properly - any help here?).
    Two questions:
    1. Does anyone have any ideas/experience with this kind of problem?
    2. If the key chip circuit fails, will it prevent the engine from cranking, or just from starting?
    Any ideas/suggestions would be welcome.
    Thank you.
  • I have a 2001 Buick Regal LS. The alarm remote (fob) plastic broke at the hole for placing a ring to connect it to your key ring. I thought that I could purchase just the plastic housing and place the electronics part in the new plastic housing. I am unable to find the plastic part so I called the Buick dealer. They want $112.00 for the remote plus $40.00 to program it. Does anyone have suggestions? $152 .00 seems like a bunch to pay for a remote. Is it possible to program the remote yourself without depending on the Buick dealer?

    Thanks for your help.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,699
    The remotes are available on the internet. I don't have a link, but people have posted links in some of these GM discussions. I'll see if I have a bookmark.

    This message has been approved.

  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    If you want a new PCM...Here are 2 vendors...Intense sells theirs and ZZPerformance sells one from DHP...and they both do 'way' more than just take away the limiter...

    http://www.intense-racing.com/

    http://www.zzperformance.com/
  • Have you ever found out the problem to the noise??? I have the exact same thing happen when i drive slow and have my window down i can hear this clinking noise from the right front someplace.
  • tonyf2tonyf2 Posts: 24
    I have a '98 and a '01 Buick Regal ls. I am experencing a problem with the 'Service Engine Soon' light on my '01 Regal. It has 47k miles, passed NJ inspection about 1 yr ago. The manual which comes in the glove compartment says to open the gas cap if light comes on. I've done this, after a day or so it went out. I took a trip just recently and the light came on again and will not go off. Any suggestions.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,699
    Since the light went off after a day of start stop driving, it may be the gas cap. Check the rubber ring around the top that seals inside the opening of the metal tank filler. If it's torn, time for a new cap (or some silicon caulk). If it's dry, put some vaseline on it to help it seal better. Check the area of the metal filler where the cap seal goes. If it's got a layer of sediment on it from something, rub it off with an oiled shop cloth to smooth the surface to help the seal.

    Had trouble with 98 3800 in LeSabre. Read the service manual I bought to see how it works. When you restart a luke warm engine, it does a check to see if it can keep a vacuum for a certain length of time to show that there is no air leak in the tank system. It does not do the test on a cold start nor a hot start. Only when the water temp is between a couple of lukewarm temperatures. Sure enough, when I drove my car to get coffee, turned it off for a few minutes, then got back in, it did the test and the light went off. If you don't do a luke warm start, it may take a few days before it does the vacuum check.

    This message has been approved.

  • bjbaker82bjbaker82 Posts: 4
    It's a sharp plasticky rattle, almost sounds like something's hitting the cone of the speaker. I can tell the speaker isn't blown, there's just something loose back there. There's a little bit of rattle when my car drives over sharp bumps, or even a slightly bumpy road, but when I turn the CD/radio on, it amplifies by like 100x. The warranty ran out a long time ago, so right now I'm considering removing the back seat and rear deck as required to get at the damn speaker to see what's wrong.
  • bjbaker82bjbaker82 Posts: 4
    eh, scratch that. I got the balls to take out my rear seat and deck and the 6x9 is fried, unless I'm totally missing something. Bass hits at odd times, etc. Wondering if there's any good sites on the inet that sell OEM speakers?
  • jay99jay99 Posts: 9
    So how hard was it to take the seat out? Any tricks to it? My speakers have been blown for a while, but I didn't know how to replace them myself and didn't want to pay someone to do it. I have a 99 GS so I imagine they are the same...
  • bjbaker82bjbaker82 Posts: 4
    Not very difficult, just time consuming and a huge pain in the [non-permissible content removed]. You'll need a ratchet, some metric sockets, and some pliers to pull those damn plastic peg-thingies out (that you'll need to buy more of since you wreck them when you remove them). The bottom part of the seat has some, uh, I don't even know what to call them with some tabs coming out right under the seat and you need to release them so the seat will just come out. Then removing the backrest will be pretty straightforward, except there's some metal hooks hooking it into the "bulkhead" or whatever you call it. Just lift and pull it out. The rear deck is anchored by some of those plastic screw-looking thingies (and some other stuff that I can't find) so I just took a pair of angled needle-nose pliers and ripped them out, so I dunno what you wanna do. Now, what I can't figure out is how to get the rear deck out. What was GM thinking when they designed this? Anyway, I isolated the sound and the speaker's not blown, just a cracked cone. Gotta figure out how to get the rear deck out...
  • tonyf2tonyf2 Posts: 24
    I followed your instructions to clean the metal area where the cap seals, I also clean the rubber ring on the gas cap and put a little vasaline on it. After one day the light went off. Thanks for your help.
  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    I am having the same problem with my left rear speaker. A plasticky rattle on any kind of low bass tones. Very annoying. But I'll be damned if I'm taking the back seat out myself. I'll just live with it, or go to a good car stereo shop and have them replace both speakers.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Many months back I wrote of suspicions to the water pump doing a marginal job. Result was that stopped in traffic the guage would creep up toward the very warm. I had eliminated most everything else. I purchased a new pump and compared the impeller. The face of it is machined and it appears the old pump could have had as much as 1/16 inch more machined from it. Not much, but enough to allow excessive leakage past the impeller. I'll post back later with actual results, but it is interesting that the tolerance would be so large.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    All right, got it back together. Short quick run to warm up and purge the system. Less than half the run I used to warm and circulate the water as a final rinse w/o the thermastat. It barely budged off cold then. Now it is over half way up. Quick check of my work upon which I discover the fans aren't running. Trouble shot to the temp sensor. Someone aped it at some point in the past. The sensor connector was split in half and came out with the plug. Dirty crack lines show it was this way for a long time. Corrosion around the pins and resistance reading way to high. To the parts house this morning and hopefully all is well so I can move on to Aurora and Sable. Trouble in batches.
  • mrmemrme Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 Buick Regal with a 3.8 V6 with 75,000 miles. I average about 24 mpg on the highway/city combined. Is there any way to improve the gas mileage, or is this normal. I did get about 27 mpg, but it has since dropped. I have changed the plugs, pcv value, and air filter. Any ideas?
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