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Buick Regal

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  • Low Coolant light comes on until engine is warmed up, then goes out. If I fill with coolant past the line, the light will go out and not come on for a 10-15 days. Park it nightly in garage, have checked floor repeatedly for leaks -- there are none. Still after 2-3 weeks the coolant level does go down maybe a 1/2 to 1 inch.

    Is this one of those crazy deals with the Body Control Module where it is relearning what the correct level is?

    Any ideas? Many thanks.
  • gsboostgsboost Posts: 11
    I just recently checked under my hood because after driving it for only 10 minutes i thought i smelt burning oil. I opened the hood and didn't see anything dripping anywhere, even on the ground. Then i revved the engine up just a little and a puff of smoke came from the back of the engine, so i quickly turned the car off. I checked the oil level and it was full. I didn't see any spots under the car. Any suggestions on what is going on?
  • Check your Valve covers. Mine are currently leaking and hitting the exhaust pipes. If so I am not a mechanic but I would probably say you need a new valve cover gasket.
  • I am think I may have bad engine mounts. Can anyone tell me the location of them in relation to the oil pan. This is a Buick Regal 3.8 1996. Any help is welcome!

    Thanks
    Robert
  • gsboostgsboost Posts: 11
    Thanks for the advice, I will get that checked out. Is it still ok to drive around town like that?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,731
    If you're interested in lots of info about your car, the Helm GM service manual for the car will be the best money you spend.

    Example; ebay link

    or you can price them here

    Helm inc.

    note that most of the manuals are a 2 or 3 volume set. You can read on the front how many books they are--it will say 1 out of 2, etc.

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  • Like I said not a mechanic. However I have been driving around with my seals leaking for awhile. I could be completly wrong at what I think it is... But I have been to busy to change my gasket so I have just put up with the smell. That said... Oil and heat make fire so I may be just risking it.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    One of my first cars had leaking seals. I probably drove it 2 or 3 years with smoke coming from hot exhaust pipes undernbeath. I was a "cheapster" back then so I never had it fixed. Guess I was lucky it never caught fire, though if any car was going to I would think it would have been that car.
  • Valve cover gaskets leaking seem to be a common GM product problem. I had a 1988 Chevy Celebrity that starting leaking at 30,000 miles and it was 8 years old at that time. I drove it another 10 years with out ever replacing the gasket. My 1997 Regal, which I bought last year with only 42,000 miles on it, starting leaking about two months after I purchased it. The Celebrity had one gasket and oil never leaked on the manifold. The Regal has two, front and back. The front will leak onto the exhaust. The cost to pay a garage to replace the front gasket is cheaper, because there is less time involved getting to it, than the back gasket. I am hoping to run this Buick as long as I was able to run that Chevy, but I am afraid that I may have to replace the gasket, it is a fire risk. Maybe I'll just buy a fire extinguisher. Easier on the wallet.
  • My remote started acting like it needed a new battery. So, I replaced it. Now, I cannot get the remote to do anything. At first, after installing the new battery, I could get the three beeps that indicated that the remote was reset, but the buttons were still not responding correctly. I tried the spare remote and it was not working as well as it should. I put a new battery in it and I cannot get the three beep reset. Any ideas what could be wrong? All the buttons had been working, just had to be right at the car to get them to work, before I installed the new batteries. The dealer wants like $60.00 just to put it on the computer to see if it is some sort of module. Could my keypads just be worn out? The car is a '97. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,731
    I don't know if they're the same as my 98 LeSabre but once of twice it got out of synchronization. The service manual said to hold down the lock and the unlock buttons for several seconds at the same time near the car. The horn would beep and voila we'd be back working again.

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  • Went to GM dealer yesterday. I was told that it couldn't be the remotes, it had to be a "module or something within the car". Estimated cost, just to put it on the computer to check out what the problem "might" be, $60. Then I would have added expense in fixing whatever they might find. Schedule a service appt. Thought about it most of day. I went to a Ford dealership a few streets from my home. Explain the problem, this guy pulls out a little tester gadget and tests my remotes. As it turns out, my lock and unlock buttons are not responding. They are wore out. The car is a '97. Since these buttons are not working, I can not reset the remote after installing a new battery. I have to ask myself, why wouldn't my Gm dealer, where I bought the car, had not thought to test the remotes first. I called my GM dealer and told them that I had the remotes tested and to order me a new remote. I know that I am not a mechanic and I am a woman, but common sense was telling me the car was working fine up until the battery change, and up until that point I would have to push the buttons in certain areas to get them to respond. It wasn't that I needed a new battery, the remote buttons were not making contact. I would have had wasted money on the dealer running a computer check and still would have ended up buying a new remote. It just bothers me that I had to go to a Ford dealership to resolve this problem. I have been a Chevy owner for over 27 years. My first car was a Ford, nothing but problems.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,731
    Replacement remotes with the same FCC number and GM number on back are available on the internet. Check price.

    You may be able to repair.The remote pops open using a coin or screwdriver to carefully open it. The keypad you push is a rubber layer with rubber buttons that stick up through the hard top of the remote. The back of those button have a conductive material that touches copper layers on the top of the circuit board under them and shorts between the two circuits there. That's what makes the remote operate. Lightly wipe those contacts on the circuit board with a clean cloth with rubbing alcohol. It make take off the gooey stuff that accumulates there on touchpads made like that.

    I fixed my Panasonic phone handsets the same way when the "three" button quit working unless you pushed several times to make contact. It was hard to take apart however...

    If your remotes don't work, try that on one.

    Remote seller google search

    Ebay search

    It's the FCC ID number that needs to match the on on your remotes. If you have remotes that have a large #1 or #2 on the back for memory seats and mirrors on your car, you will have to have the dealer or someone with a Tech II computer connect to the car to program them.

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  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,731
    Notice the black gummy stuff around the top two contacts for unlock and lock. There seems to be a lubricant or a breakdown of the plastic rubber around the buttons that goops up the contacts. I already wipe these with a dry cloth while I had it open.

    I wouldn't clean the button side unless the contact cleaning doesn't work. I'm hoping you can get your old ones working and just don't pickup the replacements at the dealer or ask for your money back.

    image

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  • My remotes have no gunk inside of them, they really look like new inside. The remotes for my car only lock/unlock doors and trunk, no mirrors or anything. I have already tried cleaning them. Still won't work. Thanks for all the suggestions and help, though. I guess I will just have to get a new one.
  • i have a 91 buick regal with the 3.8 l engine and the low coolant light wont go off and the heat will not work, it does not appear that the engine is overheating or anything severe, but heat would be nice. I figure the thermostat is where i should start, but any input would be greatly appreciated
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,731
    Check the coolant level in the radiator. When coolant level goes low, now coolant flows through the heater.

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  • I have 140,000 mi on my 94 Regal. A friend on mine said I need to replace the timing chain. The car runs great with no problems. He, my friend, said all cars should have the timing chain replaced at 90,000 mi.. Would anybody have any info. on this, or should I let it go? I would hate to be on the highway and the car stops running.
    Thanks, Dave :confuse:
  • I don't know what this part is but it may be what you are looking for. On my 96 3.8 Buick Regal on the radiator, there is what looks to be a sensor with a probe at the end of it that goes into the radiator. This is on the left side side of the radiator. My probe was looking warn but not bad. However yours being a 91 Could be toast. Again I am not even sure that sensor is for low coolant. But on mine that it was logical that it would be.
  • the coolant level never appears to go down, in the radiator or the resevoir
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