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Buick Regal

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Comments

  • jackjtjackjt Posts: 178
    Agree the rear is too light for severe twisties. If the Regal were a RWD car we would be able to handle it much easier. From what I have read, the LS tires do have much to do about the handling and a good replacement would help. Tire discussions have appeared opn this board; you might want to dial back a few weeks and check it out.

    AguyinD---congrats on your purchase. The GS is a great car and fun to drive. Since you are about 23000 miles ahead of me, I'll be interested in what your experiences will be as the GS ages! Enjoy!
  • After 3 days with my 98 GS, I've only discovered two relatively minor problems that I didn't notice at purchase. First, I can't seem to reset the trip odometer - the reset button doesn't do it (don't suppose I would actually read the manual for how to do these things, do you?). Second, the front-side passenger power door lock sticks - i.e., it typically takes 2 or 3 button pushes to make it unlock.

    For those of you talking about rattles, etc.: Haven't noticed any dashboard area rattles. We did notice a brake pedal squeak at the dealer, but its completely gone now. I am very pleased with the overall sound level in the cabin - pretty much as I experienced with all previous tests drives.

    My first commute in the car this morning was glorious! First mileage for the trip - S.W Denver to Boulder (mostly highway but with periods of stop-start rush hour traffic) was 25.0 mpg, according to the monitor.

    Had my chance to fill up with 91 premium for the first time - that kinda stings!

    In other news, I know there has been a fair amount of discussion here regarding tires. Can anyone quickly remind me what the stock tires are? I have Goodyear Eagles and don't know if they're original. Thanks.

    One final cost issue: I got about what I was expecting in terms of insurance costs. After looking at the insurance institute's claims numbers, I expected relatively low insurance cost since the Regal had at or near the lowest claims rates for all cars in its class. We will be paying only about $100 more (/6mos) than our 1988 New Yorker for the exact same coverage. Keep in mind I am comparing a 13 y/o car with a 3 y/o car.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    The OEM tires for Regal GS are Goodyear Eagle LS.
  • jackjtjackjt Posts: 178
    Re: your problems, they all seem like minor ones that the dealer should fix. I'll warn you on the trip odometer, I had a 95 ford whose trip odometer didn't work. To fix it required a completely new speedo that costs around ?????? $250 installed (foertunately it was covered under an extended warranty). So I'd advise you to get on that dealer asap re the odometer.

    Good Luck and happy you are enjoying the machine!
  • davidtddavidtd Posts: 3
    What can I say guys, I really like this car. It is a blast to drive and I mean blast. Only two problems I have found in my short ownership. Left fog lamp doesn't work. I replaced the bulb but still no light. And I have the same problem I saw posted earlier. Cruise cancels everytime I use my right turn signal.

    A couple of questions too. I have traction control. Does it really work. Last night I launched in a hurry and I spun the left front tire (turning left) for a long while. Should I have the dealer look at it or is this normal?

    First tank was just under 25 mpg (calculated)which considering I was playing a bunch, I felt was good. Current tank shows 27 or so with more normal driving. Is the computer pretty accurate? And next, what is the max boost? My Cummins will generate 32psi of turbo boost and I kinda laugh when I have a 7.2 psi here. That is all I have been able to generate.

    Thanks
    David
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    In yesterday for the second time on the oil leak (now 1,500 miles ). The dye and black light they say could not detect where it was coming from, they saw the oil but just not sure where it is coming from. Low tire pressure light, they feel due to a valve being loose in the stem. Will see. Service rep very nice but dissapointing that the problem has not been solved. Perhaps I should not have left a copy of my states's LEMON LAW on the front seat, they obvioulsy saw it!

    Salesman called to apologize for the problems as well. This could be a great car, I just want to not have leaks and non maintenance items to deal with. Seems to be using oil too although with the leak it is too early to tell. I was bothered by the fact that everyone in the waiting room in service was over 65. Buick and Cadillac sure do have an image problem with younger consumers!
  • rcarbonircarboni Posts: 290
    Basically, a diesel is already able to handle high compression, and doesn't have the limitation of detonation as gas-powered engines do. Therefore, you typically see higher boost figures on larger turbo-diesel engines. Also, the translation of boost to power is quite different from diesel to gas, as well as from turbo to supercharger. If you somehow managed to run 32psi on the 3.8L V6 using a supercharger, you might well exceed 1000hp. Some turbo GN's on the other hand will push psi to 30, and still only generate 500-something hp. (Yeah, ONLY he says!)

    The max rating for the GS is around 8psi, but you can swap out the s/c pulley for a smaller diameter unit and increase the boost to about 11psi. I wouldn't go any higher unless you install an intercooler, or make other modifications.
  • I am looking to trade in my 1997 Olds Cutlass. I use my car for work (appx. 36k/year).

    I was directed towards a 2000 Buick Regal LS (w/o leather seats and no supercharged engine). This car is loaded. It is a GM Executive driven vehicle w/ less than 6k miles. The dealer is offering it to me for $17.9k.

    I would appreciate any feedback on this vehicle especially putting on very high highway miles.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    1. You wrote: Cruise cancels everytime I use my right turn signal.


    The "universal" stalk (turn signals/high beam/cruise/wipers...) behind the steering wheel is connected to an electrical switch. The switch is located inside the steering column. It is rather complicated, and therefore prone to defects. First place to look with your problem.


    I had the same problem, only with high beams. Every time I blinked to pass, cruise control dropped. The turn signals disengaged cruise too, but at random: often but not every time.


    The dealer replaced the switch under warranty, and I had no problem with cruise since. The work itself took several hours.


    The switch is expensive, and my dealer did not have it in storage. He need to order it. Probably, the same with your dealer.

    It is very important to verify that the part is already received before let mechanics to start disassemble the steering column. Otherwise you will be without your car for longer time, possibly for several days, till the dealer will receive the switch. It happened with me, even while the timing of appointment was set when they expected to have the part


    BTW, you can get idea about the switch pricing here:


    http://store.yahoo.com/electronman/roscruiscon.html


    It looks as the stalk/switch costs more than the cruise control unit itself. $250 vs. $160.


    2. I spinned wheels couple of times. The light "low traction" (or something of this kind) appeared on the dash, but I did not feel the traction control.

  • davidtddavidtd Posts: 3
    I appreciate the info. Will make sure the dealer has part in hand before they break out the tools.

    I saw the link for power upgrades. Do you feel the pulley is a good addition to the car? Forced induction is just way cool. My wife just shakes her head at me. I've got my Cummins up to about 300 RWHP and 700 lbs RWTQ. When I told her AFTER I bought the car for her that I was sure we could tweak it since it had a SC, I got "the look"!! LOL

    My truck group is making a trip to the strip next Friday for some testing. Since I am not running my truck due to a clutch that is not strong enough for the abuse, I might just have to make a couple of passes in the wife's grocery getter. Good for a baseline anyway. ;)
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    I did not modify my GS. Too new - less than 6000 on odometer - and, additionally, I do not feel it to be slow :-)


    Though, I read about available modifications. Most of them are marketed primary for Grand Prix GTP - the same powertrain, the same lower body, and a lot of common parts. So, you can find a lot of links here:


    http://www.grandprix.net/links/


    It looks that some modifications cannot hurt. In my list, the first would be better brakes: 12 inch front rotors, and pads. Replacing oil and the transmission liquid by synthetic also would not hurt, as well as to install a big transmission liquid radiator. And, if you want to modify engine, this is necessary: it looks as the transmission barely can cope with the power from a stock engine.


    I, probably, would not replace the pilley. This is not street-legal. But SLP is selling some street-legal stuff: cold air package ($200) and exhaust ($350). $50 or so less when on sale.


    http://www.slponline.com/main.asp

  • barneyeabarneyea Posts: 20
    Just completed a trip from Central Texas to Nashville and return. Computer read-out indicated 30 mpg several times. Actual was in the 29 mpg... did not record each fill-up or average total trip. Speed was mostly interstate with some small speed burst just for fun. Since the weather was almost cold, I used regular grade gas for the entire trip. I had posted after Thanksgiving an average of 27.6 for a trip to California and return. The car is a '98 GS with 36k miles.
  • peufanpeufan Posts: 53
    In your internet "travels", have you seen any
    Xenon or superbright headlights available
    for the Regal?

    I've seen a Sylvania "cool blue" bulb at Napa
    auto parts, but got the impression it wasn't really that much brighter than what we already
    have.

    Would love to pump up the brightness.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    "Blue" bulbs are available at Pep Boys, and costs about $30 for pair. Did not check, though, if they fit Regal.

    "The real things" Xenon headlights, as installed on MB and other luxury cars, are very expensive. I had read they costs more than thousand dollars. This is crazy.

    Any case, I would rather avoid the bright lamps. Especially if they are not installed at factory.

    First, for the sake of common civility. I do not like to be brightened, and do not want to brighten anybody myself.

    Second, the lamps probably will attract unnecessary attention. Including the attention of law enforcement. Weather and traffic permitting, I often drive 10 mph above the posted speed limit. This is rather common in CT, and New England in general, but still not strictly legal...
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    Sounds like $17.9 is a fair deal for a 2000 LS w/ 6,000 on the odometer (considering the car is loaded). Buying the car new, you'd probably get it for $22.5K. I'm not privy to the resale value of the car, but the numbers 'sound right'.
  • sailesaile Posts: 25
    I want/will upgrade the speakers and place a 100x4 AMP. I LIKE the stock stereo with controls but want POWER. Has anyone run into problem...ie connectors or install problems??? I see engine upgrades but no audio upgrades. Does anyone know of site that placed audio upgrades...GM, Grandprix, AM, ect???

    Adios,
    Saile
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    Well, I thought that I was going to become a new member of this board because I had every intention of getting a Regal GS to replace my problem ridden, 1999 Motor Trend Car of the Year(Chrysler 300M)! However, it did not turn out that way. I accidentally visited this dealership, drove this car and ended up signing the papers! It's now in my possession since Wednesday. All I can say is WOW! Probably would have been the same price as the Regal. Sticker is $30,330 with NO options available except the Nav system for $2,000.


    Take a look- http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=912729&a=12353397&p=45187678&f=0


    fastdriver

  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Check out the Kelly blue book and Edmunds values for wholesale on this car. Offer $500-$1,000 over wholesale and see what happens. Buick dealers are really hurting so don't budge. They have to move cars, inventory is three deep in the lots.Plus, I think they also have a manufacturer incentive on 2000, like $2000 which he may not be telling you about.
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    It may not be a Regal but it is certainly a great car - and certainly in your favorite color!

    Best wishes, Bob, for many miles and years of driving excitement!

    Ken
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    Congratulations!
  • jackjtjackjt Posts: 178
    Saw all 16 pictures! Have fun.......
  • bralleybralley Posts: 20
    I got my 2000 LS (15K miles) in January for $17,900. Mine has leather and all that fun stuff. The economy has taken a decided downturn since then, and there was no incentive(none that I could find, anyway, and I combed the internet). My guess is that you could get yours for less if you press for it.

    Good luck!
  • rhinncrhinnc Posts: 66
    OK. I have read the manual. Sat in the vehicle and for the life of me can not figure out how to have just ouside air come through the vents instead of conditioned air. Is it possible? 2000 GS all options.

    TIA
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    I am too lazy to go to parking lot for verifying, even more that it is almost 1am in New England. Though, as well as I remember, there is a special "Vent" button on the button cluster right of the temperature display. Near "Recirculation", "Rear", and "Windshield".
  • rhinncrhinnc Posts: 66
    You are correct, there is a vent button where you say. However, changing the temperature to the lowest setting causes the a/c to come on and the fan to speed up to turbo velocity. Seems awhile back there was comments as to defects with the controls. The car has 8K miles.

    But I am dissapointed that you did not go out at 1AM and check.....NOT.

    Thanks for the info.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    On mine I simply press the VENT button, no temp controls. I then push the fan button to turn the fan to lowest setting. Feels like outside air to me.
  • etharmonetharmon Posts: 399
    Do not turn it all the way down to 60. This defaults the system to max cool which puts it in recirculate mode and high fan. Just use the "vent" button and select the air flow pattern and fan speed you desire. Think of the temperature control like the thermostat in your house. Set it at a certain temperature and the system will try to maintain that temp. When my father first got his Aurora, it took him forever to realize that leaving it set at 70 will cool the car just as quickly as if you turn it all the way down to 60. If it's a fairly warm day or at least the car's interior is wanr, seting it about 66 or so and pressing vent should allow the system to draw outside air in and will not warm it up and the yet the A/C compressor will stay off until you select auto.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    I played with the Vent button today.

    First, I pressed it when driving, in Auto mode. The air flow direction and speed behaved as usual. Did not feel the difference comparing with driving with A/C.

    Then played with controls after returning. Engine was hot after a trip, the outside temperature was 41F, while the inside one was close to my usual 71F.

    First I set air flow to mid (to feel the flow by my hands), and moved Temperature setting down, with Vent on. The air that was blowing from the vents feel cold, but not very cold. More or less the same as the outside 41F.

    This continued while I moved temperature setting down to 61F. Nothing changed: neither fan speed nor temperature of the blown air.

    As etharmon wrote, the minimal temperature setting (60F on display) is a special case. As soon as I get here, the fan speed jumped to the maximum. Though, the air temperature still was the same not very cold - probably 41F.

    Then I set Vent off. The same air flow, but the air temperature diminished very noticeable. Probably, to almost freezing.

    I also played with both Vent and Auto set, with different temparature settings. It works.

    So, I believe, the A/C does not work with Vent on, and started to work when I switched Vent off. Even more, Vent works together with Auto - as long as it is cool enough outside. This contradicts a bit what etharmon wrote about his father's Aurora.

    Probably, when it is not very hot or wet, there is sense for me to drive with both Auto and Vent on. In CT it will be about half of year.

    I also believe that the loud noise with the minimal temparature setting is from the fan itself, not from A/C compressor. The same noise as if you set high fan speed with any other temperature.

    By the way, did anybody notice that the fan is somewhat noisy even at low setting (two squares on display) with air flow set to "Mid"? Though not noisy at all at the speed when pointed to floor or windshield. Probably, because the vent grill rattle a bit.
  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    That Acura is a beautiful piece of work. I had sat in one in a showroom and drooled all over the new leather. You made a great choice. Obviously Regal GS people must recognize good taste in cars. Acura really knows how to make a luxury sports sedan. The GS could use a touch more of luxury / interior refinement, but then again for the price/performance... the GS is a good value. Afterall if I had the extra money to spend I would most likely be in that Acura too !!! very nice choice. congrats.
  • etharmonetharmon Posts: 399
    The TL is a nice car, but it does little to impress me. I'd personally take a loaded GS which with discounts would be thousands less than the TL which sell as pretty much full MSRP. Thats just me, Acuras do very little to get my blood going. For that price, make mine an Aurora V8 with the discounts they are now giving on Oldsmobiles.
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