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Buick Regal

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Comments

  • jackjtjackjt Posts: 178
    I've got about 3500 miles on the GS now and recently, noticed that it seems to have more power and is more responsive. I am delighted at the throttle response that I am getting. Maybe I won't need that K&N filter afterall:-)

    Is this typical?
  • 9899olds9899olds Posts: 202
    Does the 3.8 SC Regal come with speed-rated tires or does one still get the a touring tire????? I assume the stoplight blasters have had the top end limiter removed.. How else can you run with the GTPs????

    Owner of a Shortstar and a Northstar also a past owner of a T-Type Electra, Regal GS and LeSabre.

    Buick drivetrain is okay; but their suspension is a total floppy mess. Too much suspension travel and too mushy, flat spots/cups tires..

    Have had the 3.8 in three Buicks and one Intrigue..Good drony engine, 100% reliable, but the 3.5 justs love to run the high-end..The 3.5 is not a dragging machine, in fact not too V-6s are in the dragging end..
  • rcarbonircarboni Posts: 290
    The GS comes with the "Bad"year LS tires. I'm not sure I would call them a "touring" tire, but they are not high-performance by any means. I'm counting the miles until I replace my set with some Yokohama AVS.

    The top end limiter is somewhere around 107. Since I'm not running in the 12's (yet), I don't have to worry about it. Hopefully, the custom flashed PCM for the Regal will be available soon though.

    Since I drive mostly in and around Phila., NJ, and NYC, there is no use for an engine that "loves to run the high-end". By the time you get the revs up to 4k here, you have to slow down for a toll booth or a red light. I'm sure this type of engine has it's advantages, but they don't have any use on my terrain - off-the-line performance is what rules here.
  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    Was wondering if anyone else has had trouble with their Goodyear Eagle LS tires?

    My '99 GSE is on its second set of replacement tires at 33K miles. First problems occured at 29K; dealer replaced the front two. While they looked good on the outside edge, the indside edge was shot; one had steel cords starting to come out. Two new tires paid for by Buick under warranty, front end alignment, we go down the road thinking all is well. About 4K miles later, roaring in the back end; back to the dealer. He says the NEW tires on the front are showing more wear than the ones on the back with 33K miles! Orders four new tires, and rechecks the alignment. So far, so good.

    Although I appreciate GM buying me a new set of tires just before the factory warranty runs out, I am getting curious about whether these tires will become the next Firestone horror story.

    If the tires are not the problem, maybe there is a trend starting to appear that indicates the struts are no good?

    Joe
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    PAman-

    Those of us who had/have a Chrysler 300M with the Goodyear Eagle LS tires have had similar problems. WHEN I had my 300M, from day one the car always wanted to go LEFT no matter what highway lane I was in. After 10 1/2 months of having those "award winning 5-STAR" Chrysler dealers try to correct this problem, I contacted Goodyear and they replaced them for me for FREE at 11,000 miles! No problems after that, except they did have a tendency to wear on the outside and inside edges even with proper care.

    I would suggest that you contact Goodyear and explain the problem and have them contact your local Goodyear tire store to have them take a look at them. The tires at warranteed by Goodyear, not GM.

    Hope this helps.

    fastdriver
  • rcarbonircarboni Posts: 290
    A better question might be who "hasn't" had trouble with Goodyear tires! My previous Regal had the GSA tires. That car used to slip and slide all over the place until I replaced the tires with Michelin X-Ones. I couldn't believe the improvement. Same thing happened on a friend's Toyota Celica. She used to spin while accelerating on wet roads. I told her that she needed to ease up on the go-pedal, but then I drove the car, and sure enough it was the Goodyears. She switched to X-Ones and the problem went away completely.

    My Dodge Durango came with Goodyear Wranglers, and I replaced them the second week I owned the truck with BFG AT's. Good thing too, as many Durango owners have had bad things to say about those tires. I knew better, having owned two Jeeps previous that came with Wranglers.

    I can't say I've had a wear problem with the LS tires I have on now. I do have a slow leak in one of the tires which is driving me crazy, but other than that, the main complaint is traction (or loss thereof), both on wet and dry roads. I have 22K on the tires, so I think I might replace them soon. Probably going with the Yoko AVS db as mentioned, but I'm also thinking about the Nitto 450.
  • one2oneone2one Posts: 626
    Check out this '51 LeSabre concept car. Tone it down a bit and they could sell it on the street now. I like this more than the Bengal.
  • one2oneone2one Posts: 626
    I replaced the Goodyear LS on my old Intrigue with Michelin Pilot XGT H4's. Noticeable improvement. Driving thru snow was fun, too, instead of a chore. I hear Firehawks are good as well.
  • 9899olds9899olds Posts: 202
    99 GLS Intrigue 3.5 w/SLP cat back exhaust showing 47,000 miles on the crummy Goodies LS which are run at 34# cold...Now for the rest of the story-----Tires were rotated every 6K miles up until 32K and they haven't been bothered since..

    My normal cruising is 75/85, and the Intrigue suspension is hard but the tires are wearing beautifully, even across; no cupping, no vibration and I dread having to buy another set because it has been pure bliss..

    original factory balance and alignment too..I totally understand a Buick owners dilemma about tire wear on cupping of the rear tires..Buicks are not suspended for any extended 70+mph cruise due to the weak/long stroke rear struts..Buicks do rock slightly at interstate speeds..I went through 4 sets of eagles on a 92 GS--due to cupping..My wifes 87 T-Type Electra when it was 20k miles from new cupped all 4 tires on a fast Detroit to West Palm Beach trip..Buicks are good town cars..

    Alignment will not help a Buick; put a different strut on.. I have had the factoy rep walk away for they know what the problem is..Goodyear knows what the problem is also. and it's part of the AARP ride--rock a little..

    My 94 LeSabre at 50k miles shook so bad that I took it to the Buick dealer and told him to fix it..It was there two days and he called me and said they have no idea what's wrong..

    My answer was go out and buy 4 Monore Struts, install and align, drive it and then call me..They said it rides firm but doesn't shake--great.. I drove it until 113k miles and traded it on a 98 Intrigue..No problem with the different strut..
  • bralleybralley Posts: 20
    Just curious to see if anyone else has/had a similar problem.

    I own a 2000 Regal LS with 22K. A couple of months ago I noticed a "musty" smell when first turning on the AC (smelled like old dirty gym socks to me - hubby says it was worse that that) - the smell goes away after a few minutes - didn't think it was a big deal at the time because it went away after a couple of weeks. Now it's back (although not nearly as bad - a much milder form) and my external temperature gauge is not working.

    Otherwise the car is performing well, but it's under warranty, so we'll take it in and get it fixed. Anyone have any ideas? Could the two problems be related?
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    bralley-

    That foul smell is common on a lot of cars. It's from the condensation from the AC. One solution that I have read about is to put the FAN on high speed with NO AC on. Set the controls also to RECIRCULATE. Then, spray some LYSOL spray into the vent area OUTSIDE the car, at the bottom of the windshield where the wipers rest. Spray a goodly amount and let the fan run for a few minutes. This is not a permanent solution, but it does help. The dealer would probably perform a similiar thing and charge you a fortune with NO guarantee that it won't come back.

    As for the temp gauge, it could be defective. I believe it's located towards the front of the car near the radiator.

    fastdriver
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    growing inside of your a/c unit. There is a tsb out to address this. I would consider having it done...knowing that every breath you take could be laden with bacteria spores.
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    .
    I've noticed lately that in the evenings, when I start up the car after being cold, the front window will begin fogging up (no matter the weather outside). After a quick blast of the defogger, all is fine. But it seems strange that this should occur. Again, whether its a clear 70 degrees (with low humidity) at night or a cloudy 60 (I live in L.A.), the inside front windshield will fog up.
    Can anyone relate? FWIW, I do use the a/c 90% of the time. But I manually turn it off before turning off the car (never a good idea to start up a cold or warm car w/ your a/c on).
    Would appreciate your comments. Thanks.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    Bushwack-

    Mmmm........SMOG??? Just kidding. It's probably just the temp difference between the inside and outside window surface?

    I always leave my AC on. Why isn't it a good idea to have it on when you start the car? I have never turned it off on any car I ever had. Is it a drain on the battery? Even Christine(300M) had no problem with this. One of the few she didn't have.

    fastdriver
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    I've never bothered to turn mine off on all the vehicles that I've owned...too much of a pain....and never had any problems.
  • rcarbonircarboni Posts: 290
    Just a suggestion, but I used to use anti-fog stuff on the inside face-shield of my motorcycle helmets, and this stuff works great at repelling condensation. Might be worth a try on the inside of the windshield.
  • bralleybralley Posts: 20
    Thanks for the information! I went to www.alldata.com and find a TSB for "Automatic Air Conditioning Control Operation" and one for "HVAC Lack of Performance". The list the TSB numbers, but that's all - can't get to the text of the TSB to read them. Do you know of anywhere I can find them so I can walk in with TSB in hand when I ask for the repair?
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    .
    My mechanic, who I have known for way, waaay too long, says that starting your car w/ the a/c on puts too much stress on an engine for the first 30 seconds. Not just the compressor, but the engine as a whole unit. He would prefer for the oil to lubricate all internal parts first before adding additional work to the engine (he'd much prefer for the engine to warm up before the a/c kicks in).
    .
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?PARTNUMBER=67004


    and torque convertor:


    http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?PARTNUMBER=60106


    However, the goodies cost $3k+ (transaxle, convertor, and speedometer processor) before other modifications.

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    this is the tsb that you are looking for.

    99-01-39-004 FEB 99 Air Conditioning Odor

    there has been an update to it so here you go.

    Air Conditioning Odor (Install Kit) #99-01-39-004A
    Air Conditioning Odor (Install Kit)
    1993-2002 Passenger Cars

    1993-2002 Light & Medium Duty Trucks

    This bulletin is being revised to update the model years, service procedure, parts information and to add the GEO and Medium Duty models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-39-004 (Section 01 - HVAC).

    Condition
    Some customers may comment on odors emitted from the air conditioning system, primarily at start-up in hot humid climates.

    Cause
    This odor may be the result of microbial growth on the evaporator core. When the blower motor fan is turned on, the microbial growth may release an unpleasant, musty odor into the passenger compartment.

    There are several other possible sources of a musty odor in a vehicle. A common source is a water leak. Follow the Service Manual procedure for identifying and correcting water leaks if other odor sources are found. The procedure contained in this bulletin is only applicable if the source of the odor has already been determined to be the HVAC module.

    Correction
    To remove odors of this type, it is necessary to eliminate the microbial growth and prevent its reoccurrence. To accomplish this, the following steps must be completed:

    Apply evaporator core Cooling Coil Coating (Aerosol 6 oz), P/N 12377951 (AC Delco® 15-102) (in Canada, use P/N 10953503) or Cooling Coil Coating Kit with Extension Nozzle, P/N 12346391 (AC Delco® 10-120). Refills are available for the Cooling Coil Coating Kit with Extension Nozzle, P/N 12346391 (AC Delco® 10-120). Refer to the chart below.
    Install the Electronic Evaporator Dryer, P/N 12497910 (AC Delco® 15-5876).

    Important
    The Cooling Coil Coatings listed above are the only GM approved products for the disinfection and long-term control of evaporator microbial growth.

    The Cooling Coil Coating will disinfect the evaporator core and help inhibit the growth of future mold and mildew.

    The Electronic Evaporator Dryer will activate when the ambient temperature near the module is above 16° C (60° F) when the vehicle is started up. Approximately 30 minutes after the vehicle has been turned off, the blower will activate for 10 seconds every 10 minutes for 2 hours unless the vehicle is restarted. If a restart occurs, the Electronic Evaporator Dryer module will reset automatically. This on/off blower activation will dry the evaporator core and case reducing the chance of reoccurring A/C odor. The Electronic Evaporator Dryer is self fused and has a battery rundown protection feature that inactivates the dryer if voltage drops below 12.5 volts.

    Service Procedure
    Visually inspect the air conditioning evaporator drain hose for obstructions and/or working condition.
    The cooling coil coating fluid must be applied to a dry evaporator core. Apply coil coating fluid as described in the instructions supplied with the kit. In some instances, the blower motor resistor can be removed for this spraying operation. If used, the opening can be taped over and the nozzle inserted through a hole in the tape. The kit instructions identify a drilling procedure to apply the coating fluid. When using this type of procedure, care must be taken to avoid evaporator damage and any holes must be properly sealed. Some coating fluid may overflow from the drain hose.

    Important
    When installing the Electronic Evaporator Module, you MUST use the included electrical splice connectors to ensure a proper splice.

    Complete detailed installation instructions and wire connectors are supplied with the Electronic Evaporator Dryer. The ground wire should be attached to a body ground source. If any other wire splicing procedures are needed, follow the wire repair procedures in the Electrical sub-section of Body & Accessories in the appropriate Service Manual. If required, the evaporator dryer can be installed underhood away from extreme heat conditions (i.e. exhaust manifolds) and/or water splash areas. In all cases, the evaporator dryer module must be secured with a Velcro® strip (not included in the kit), or you may use the integral hooks to utilize tie straps. Using a Velcro® strip is preferred as the use of the integral hooks may cause rattles.
    When the installation procedure is complete and power is supplied, the module will self-test. Thirty seconds after power is supplied, the high blower speed will be activated 3 times (for 2 seconds per cycle). When the test has run, install the Electronic Evaporator Dryer label on the blower motor case in a visible area.
    Parts Information
    Part Number Description
    12377951 (AC Delco® 15-102) Cooling Coil Coating (Aerosol 6 oz)
    12346391 (AC Delco® 10-120) Cooling Coil Coating Kit w/Extention Nozzle
    12346390 (AC Delco® 10-121) Refill for Cooling Coil Coating Kit
    12497910 (AC Delco® 15-5876) Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module Kit

    Parts are expected to be available from GMSPO, 6/4/01.

    Warranty Information
    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

    Labor Operation Description Labor Time
    D3316 Apply Cooling Coil Coating/Install Electronic Evaporator Dryer 0.8 hr

    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  • bralleybralley Posts: 20
    That ought to get the ball rolling! They won't be able to explain it away or make me pay for it either!

    Really appreciate your assistance!
  • officerozofficeroz Posts: 25
    Hi all,
    Has anyone purchased an extended warranty for their late model Regal GS? My spouse's 2000 GS has 28,000 miles, and although it has been perfect up to this point, the warranty mileage will be maxed by the end of the year. How much should one expect to pay to extend to 5 year, 100,000 miles, or is that a reasonable extention?

    Thanks...
    OfficerOz
  • jackjtjackjt Posts: 178
    I've been thinking of getting extended coverage myself and probably will get either 75M or 100M coverage. Since I am not putting allot of miles on the car will probably opt for 75,000? Usually don't keep my cars much over 70,000 niles.


    Edmunds has a good article on extended warranties- http://www.edmunds.com/advice/fiw/articles/43770/article.html


    You might get some direction here.


    Good Luck

  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    officeroz-

    You might also do a search here at TH because there is/was a topic about extended warranties- costs, types, brands, experiences etv.

    fastdriver
  • 9899olds9899olds Posts: 202
    Took one out on 99 Intrigue w/3.5 power-0 ded 60/75k paid $1025; emergency service and car rental.Haven't used as yet at 47k miles

    Also took one out on 96 Caddy w/northstar 100 ded,60/75k paid 1305; emergency service and car rental..Wife's car; had a chance last week to use it for emergency jump start, car rental, and the gas tank was dropped to replace fuel pump module..No questions asked by Caddy dealer, they love it and I ain't arguing..Caddy has 57k miles, owned since new..

    When you buy through the dealer there is room to dicker the price and then stick it on your GM card and do it interest free over 12 mos..

    I would use it to get the struts replaced on the GS for they are limpy after 20k miles..

    I intend to go after Cadillac on the struts; look forward to the challenge..
  • teoteo Posts: 2,508
    Is absolutely right about the GM Major guard warranty. You can't go wrong with it.
  • evizeevize Posts: 33
    Just thought I'd post some info on what's been happening with my '98 in the first
    few weeks of ownership.

    Last time I mentioned a shudder/jerking motion when at a stop and not on the brake..

    Took it into the dealer(still under their used car warranty). They have found a problem
    with # 4 cylinder!! Possibly a bad valve.( there is a missfire) They are going to perform a leak-down test in that cylinder.

    Frankly, I'm a little shocked as the car has 61k and runs real strong. Technicians first did a MotorVac clean on my engine to see if this would solve the problem.

    I'm driving the car now until they get the tool to do the test....in about a week. BUT,
    something to pass along. Since having the MotorVac done there is VERY noticeable
    improvement in acceleration!!! Just amazing!

    For anyone not aware of what the MotorVac process does....a machine is hooked up
    to the fuel injection system and a highly concentrated cleaning solution is pumped into
    the FI rails/injectors and allowed to sit for 5/10 min. Then the car is run with the machine
    still attached using the cleaning solution as fuel. This cleans combustion chambers, valves,
    injection system etc. Man it works!!!! I think this close to being accurate on this
    process... if anyone knows more PLEASE correct me.

    Anyway, I'll post an update when the car goes back in for the leakdown test.
  • regalluvr1regalluvr1 Posts: 53
    We just got home last eve from a 6000 mile trip to the great NW.We live 100 miles south of KC and got as far away from home as Vancouver,B.C.

    We own both a 98 GS and and a 00 LS.We decided to take the LS since gas prices are high and at 37,000 miles the GS would have been on nearly worn out tires after a 6000 mile trip.The LS had 26,000 on it at the start of the trip with excellent tread on the tires and at 32,000 miles they still have alot of wear left.

    We drove 5965 miles on 207 gals of gas for 28.8 mpg.I thought this was fantastic!This was with (3) adults and a bunch of luggage,AC on alot,etc.We were on lots of winding mountain roads with steep grades so worked the Regal pretty hard.We got caught in traffic jams in Vancouver and Seattle.We drove thru Yellowstone,up to Mt Ranier and Mt St Helens,Devils Tower,Mt Rushmore on lots of steep windy roads.

    The cheapest gas was here at home at $117.9 and the highest was $162.9 at Madras,Oregon.The ave gas price was $145.4 on our trip.The best gas mileage we got was 33 mpg on a 474 mile stretch from Evanston,Wy to Denver,Colo.This included driving city steets in Cheyenne,WY to hit some flea markets,etc.My 17 yr old son drove most of this at 76 mph too.

    We saw temps all the way from 111 at McCook,NE to the lower 40's in WA and OR.We were in bad rain storms in the Black Hills.It was good to be back home.Our 2000 LS performed flawlessly and I would reccomend a Regal to anyone.
  • officerozofficeroz Posts: 25
    Thanks for the advice guys. I have every credit card known to man, but I don't have the GM card. My spouse file 13's all the cc offers that comes in these days, but I suppose I could apply for one. Better to use GM's money than mine I suppose. I assume GM Major Guard can be purchased through any GM dealer?

    Thanks again...
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