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Buick Regal

15152545657111

Comments

  • one2oneone2one Posts: 626
    Try installing a rear strut tower brace (it's actually the same as the one on the front strut towers but can be used on the rear). We over on the Intrigue forum (including myslef) have installed them and the ride is incredibly improved. Although the suspension is tuned differently on the Regal vs. the Intrigue, they are still both W-body cars. The STB (strut tower brace) subject has been a hot topic over there for a few weeks now (start around post 5716 on the Oldmobile Intrigue thread), so you will get a good idea of how it will change the ride.

    Here's the part number: 12456148. Just go to any GM dealer's parts dept, give them this number and for $12 (give or take depending on taxes) you'll have the part in one day. To install it on the rear, you'll have to file the holes so that they fit over the bolt. After that, unscrew the screw on the bolt on the strut tower in the trunk, drop the STB on, tighten the screw back on the bolt then drive!

    On the Intrigue, the bumps are more noticable but more comfortable. Every last one of us has described the ride this way but it's actually a compliment. None of us can really nail down a description of how it feels. Kind of like The Matrix :-) If nothing else, handling will improve tremendously. For $12, you won't find a performance/ride upgrade this noticable for this price.
  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    Sometimes my car wont start, wont even crank. When it does start all the lights on the dash come on, sometimes the speedo goes crazy.

    I'll use the turn signal and the car will die. Radio and AC don't seem to effect the car from shutting down. Only the turn signals?

    Sometimes when car starts, the shift is frozen in park and won't come out.

    Anyone else have similar problems please contact me ASAP at mwdream@aol.com

    Thank you...
  • one2oneone2one Posts: 626
    Sounds like an alternator problem may be part of the problem.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    The big complicated electrical switch in the steering wheel column, operated by the "universal stalk" often is a weak point. Given the turn signals also are operated through the switch, possibly the problem is here.

    My 2000 Regal used to disengage cruise control when using turn signals when I bought it. After replacing the switch the problem disappear.

    However, it is not cheap. The switch itself costs about $300, if I remember it right.
  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    The dealer did mention something about the instrument cluster... I was thinking something behind the dash???

    Maybe they were referring to this switch in the steering column your referring to...

    Figures it's not as simple as a fuse...

    I am also needing a new Belt Tensioner... makes rattling noises, like it has come loose... anyone having this problem? Car is at 45,000 miles. I am starting to wonder if I should have bought the Accord.
  • garypcgarypc Posts: 12
    Thanks for calling me, Mark. I had forgotten some of the other problems your post mentions... locked shifter, directionals stalling the car, but I had those also. It has been over 8 months now since those problems 'just stopped' happening. Very strange. I still think manufactures set these things to happen at certain miles! :-)

    As I mentioned, about a month after they stopped, another phantom actually started lowering my power driver window upon starting the car. I could put it up, but then not put it down again. This happened maybe 4 times, then also went away.

    QUESTION for everyone: How do you RESET the "Low Tire" light on the dash? It worked great to let me know my tire was going flat, but won't reset per the owners manual instructions. Is there another way to calibrate it? Thanks!
  • pinettedpinetted Posts: 104
    Garypc, you have to open the fuse panel cover, its on the passenger side of the dash. Open the passenger door and you will see it. Pull the cover off and hold the reset button down for about ten seconds and it will reset the warning light. I beleave the car has to be running when you do this.
  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    Stalled again this morning while driving. Had to turn on headlights to start ??? If you live in Clearwater FL and see a Regal GS with its lights on all day its me.

    I'll keep the board posted as to the progress and/or solution to this....
  • sailesaile Posts: 25
    Has anyone experimented with Other Guy Headers???
    I'm seriously considering headers...I'd like to know of any difficulties???
  • garypcgarypc Posts: 12
    Thanks, I'll give that a shot. I have pressed it (with car off according to the manual), but did not hold it for 10 seconds. I'll try with the car running this time.

    Mark, just don't forget to turn those headlights off! Have you ever changed the battery in this car?? What a job!

    Good luck.
  • That is a very unique problem. I have never ran into this type of malfunctionin all the years that I have worked on vehicles. If it makes a difference wheather they headlamps are on high or low beam that indicates a problem in that GMC Stalk control again.

    Please do keep us updated here.
  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    It does look like a task to do so though... figures! They cram it all together these days don't they.

    Dealer did say battery tested fine they also checked grounds.
  • pinettedpinetted Posts: 104
    Mwdream, removing the battery is easy, just flip the car upside down and shake it vigerously. I have removed my battery and it is a pain. I had a bad water pump and was attempting to fix the problem myself. Its just to hard to get at so I let a local garage do it.
  • garypcgarypc Posts: 12
    Thanks! Holding in the Reset with the car running worked great! I'll keep that trick of flipping the car over in mind next time I have to change a battery, it might be easier. Thought I was going to have to remove the fender to get at it.

    Just curious, has anyone toyed with changing out the supercharger pulley for a smaller diameter wheel? I've heard about a half second off the 0-60 time can be had.
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    Have any of you experienced problems related to the following post from our Bonneville Problems board (Post 615)??

    "Due to VERY POOR design the EGR burns thru the
    plastic intake allowing coolent to leak into motor. Eventually ALL 95-98 GM 3.8 engines will
    have this problem. The replacement intake is the
    same as orginal with no changes to fix problem."

    I have a 2000 Bonneville SE and am curious to know if this problem is widespread.

    Ken
  • sailesaile Posts: 25
    Yes add a CAI + smaller pulley and you'll get about 20-30 HP.

    Checkout grandprixstore, motorsports, or thrasher for 3.4, 3.2, 3.1, 3.0 pulley. Thrasher has a GREAT article on which size is best for 3.8 with dyno'ed runs. The problem is placing pulley!!! Checkout motorsports as they RENT the pulley installation tool for two weeks!!!
  • garypcgarypc Posts: 12
    Have you put one on, or are considering it? Rental would be best, I hear the tool cost more than the pulley!
  • sailesaile Posts: 25
    Yes...it's next to impossible upgrading the pulley without the "special" tool. Let me tell you they aren't cheap!!! I guess you could buy an interchangeable new nose unit or invest the money on tool...but why??? I don't know about you but once the pulley is changed END OF STORY!!! Unless your racing I honestly couldn't reuse the tool??? Bob Weiland of motorsports.westserver.com will gladly rent the tool for $40.00 + refundable deposit...not a bad deal!!!
  • pacinpelopacinpelo Posts: 142
    At 20K now and about ready to trash the Bad Years.
    How is everyone doing with their replacment choices.
    I am thinking Mich. but am undecided which ones.
  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    I replaced my tires with BF Goodrich H rated tires. The size is the same as the originals and the ride is very good, but the handling is exactly what I wanted.
    Better grip around the corners and no squealing. Good luck with your purchase.
  • sailesaile Posts: 25
    I must admit...stock tires are TERRIBLE!!! Placed Bridgestone Potenza RE950 245/50/16. I've placed tires on STOCK rim now for 4 months...no problems. It made a tremendous difference!!!It's not a Z-Rated tire...wife would KICK me if I went that fast!!!
    I guess it comes down to what you read, prefer or budgeted. Best price/unbiased information for ANY tire manufacture could be found @ tirerack.com

    Question:
    Do you think the Regal will get the Heads Up Display...SOON??? Much like is available on Park Avenue Ultra, Grand Prix GTP, or Bonniville.
  • garypcgarypc Posts: 12
    I put on Yokohama A540 V-rated. Not bad handling, but not much grip from a dead stop. I think 0-60 would improve if I could actually move without spinning, even without much throttle. Maybe a wider tire is needed. I still have the stock wheels.

    Thanks pinetted fro the pulley info - may be more trouble than it's worth right now. One day maybe.
  • pinettedpinetted Posts: 104
    That wasn't me who responded on the pulley but if you go back a ways there are quite a few posts about changing the pulley. I am still thinking about doing mine.
  • garypcgarypc Posts: 12
    You're right! Tough doing this from work, no time to read back much. I wonder how much more gas mileage suffers with the smaller pulley. Given how much it drinks now, probably can't get much worse! I don't suppose a dealer would be willing to swap out the pulley since they ought to have the tool, but $40 to rent one is not bad.
  • pinettedpinetted Posts: 104
    Garypc, I live in Denver so my thinking is it would just push me up to the 240hp it would have at sea level. As far as gas mileage I'm sure it would go down some.
  • Which BF Goodrichs did you use.
  • I have a like new, three volume set of 1998 Regal/Century service manuals for sale. Thought I would post them here before going to ebay.
    Helm wants $120 new. I want $80 including shipping within US.
    Contact Barney@texas.net
  • garypcgarypc Posts: 12
    Went in for a $15 plug to fix a slow leak in the Yokos (A540), and almost left with $600 in tires! Treads are worn. I may have gotten 30k out of them. So now I'm also faced with needing replacements. Looking at Mich Pilot XGT H-rated ($111-123 ea). Would like something less expensive, but with great wear and traction. BF? Bridge? Yoko Avid? Anyone have any more thoughts on their tires? Thanks!

    Checking out TireRack.com and the Dunlop SP Sport A2 seem to compare pretty high with the Potenza RE950's but at $20 less per tire. Great reviews also.
  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    I have on my car the following:BF Goodrich Touring T/A HR4 tires the size is 225/60R16. They are much better than the Goodyears. I hope this helps.
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