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Buick Regal

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Comments

  • mgs2mgs2 Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Regal, standard climate control (not auto) with a weird condition. At a standstill the climate control works fine. It directs air to where ever it is supposed to as defined by the push buttons. At cruising speed the air is slowly choked off until almost no air is coming out of the vents regardless of fan speed setting. This is especially annoying on a warm day because the car doesn't stay cool. If I set the fan on #4 setting I can hear the air howling in the plenum, but almost no flow out the vents or any other port. If I stop the car, turn off the climate control and turn it back on it will start working again, but as soon as I get back on the highway it goes away again.

    Any ideas?
    TIA
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    The car wash definitely recycles the water through a filtration system. How well the system works depends on how well its maintained. There are different types of car washes. The one I go to is advertised as a "soft wash" where there are no stiff bristles brushing against your car causing scratches, rather chamois looking sheets "wipe the car". Also most of the mud and whatever else is pressure washed off the car before it enters. Not saying that the pollutants are 100% removed, just that its better than the unmanned type of wash.
  • nels1nels1 Posts: 25
    If the ports are vacuum operated that could be your problem.
  • sailesaile Posts: 25
    It's about time I Upgrade the wires/plugs in my 1999 Regal...ANY IDEAS??? Yes I know it's not time yet BUT I come from the "old school" of car care.

    NGK
    AC Delco
    Champion
    Bosh Platinum+4(Hype???)
    Splitfire(Hype???)

    What has yielded good results???
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    My preference would be either of the first two.
  • nels1nels1 Posts: 25
    Had mine replaced at around 52000 due to a miss. That was about 3 months ago. Lately its been sputtering again, so I started to change the wires. When I pulled the coil connection on the center coil I noticed a lot of rust and corrosion, so I removed all 3 of them and cleaned them up. The miss went away. Four new plug wires now hang in my garage. They are a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to replace. Not as bad as the back plugs though. The point is , check those coil connections be fore you bother changing wires.
  • pacinpelopacinpelo Posts: 142
    Well, luck has been on my side. NOT! First an inconsiderate person (expletive deleted) backing up (not looking) bangs my front fender. Now, I am driving and I hear water sloshing around sounding like from behind the passenger dash. Turns out my evaporator housing seal is leaking and there is a puddle of water on the passenger side floor. So resealing the housing and new carpet are in order and tackling that intermittent sunroof problem and an annoying steering clunk now and again. These are the first real challenges I have had with the car and hope the last for a while.

    Enough, I am driving a rental Intrepid...thank you Buick for the Regal GS!
  • mrrogersmrrogers Posts: 391
    The owners manual for my 98 Regal LS says that the DexCool antifreeze is good for five years or 150,000 miles as long as I only add DexCool when coolant is needed. I have never had to add coolant, but I checked the strength of my antifreeze this week with an antifreeze tester. To my surprise, it only tested good to plus 10 degrees F. The antifreeze looked very week.
    I debated whether to drain out a gallon of coolant, and invest in a gallon of DexCool to strengthen the mixture. Instead, I drained and flushed the system, and added new Prestone. So much for "low maintenance" coolant.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Unless indicated by a problem today's plugs really can go the distance. Anyway, the Bosch +4 are a piece of crap, CR says so and my experience backs that up. Stay with Delco or NGK.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 289
    Occasionally, not always (of course!), the transmission shifts real hard. Read somewhere on this board someone else reported same thing. He shut off engine, let computer recycle, then it went away. That works sometimes, but it still comes back. Anyone else with similar experience? Just over 21k miles.
  • pacinpelopacinpelo Posts: 142
    It turned out that the evaporator housing was not leaking but a body seam leak was allowing water in the car, for how long who knows, the passenger side under the mat and carpet is soaked.

    In addition tie rod ends are needed and are on back order from GM factory.

    Nice! Guess I am the unlucky owner now.
  • pinettedpinetted Posts: 104
    I just noticed that my drivers side seat heater is not working. I checked all the fuses and they are good. The passengers side is still working. Anyone else had a similar problem?
  • verdi942verdi942 Posts: 304
    Hey, tsu670, that was me in my '99 LS with the trans chip "losing its mind", causing shifts of awful quality [banging hard into the next gear no matter where the gas pedal was]. This usually develops in prolonged stop-and-go traffic but the other day it happened on our beloved LIE [constant 0-60-0 driving]. A 2 minute shutdown cured it, as usual. It may have something to do with the chip trying to "learn" and adapt to erratic driving. Have you seen the same? At 30K, NO other problems. BTW, we clocked 30+mpg on that round trip to Montauk.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 289
    Thanks, Verdi942. Regarding chip "learning" my erratic driving, you may have a point. I do a lot of short trips, then occasionally a road trip to visit one twin son at University of Minnesota at Duluth up north or the other at Iowa State University to the south. (DIC says 30 mpg also, but believe it to be a little optimistic!). When the hard shift happens there seems to be a slight whiny sound coming from the tranny. Think I'll make an appt with dealer and have them check it out.
  • I had a 99 Regal GS, and now have 2001 Grand Prix GTP coupe. The GTP is a fantastic car, but miss my Regal. I think the GS seemed a little quicker between 80 and 100MPH, and had a better ride quality.

    The GTP seems to have higher cornering limits, but the GS let you know when you were getting close to the limit better. The GS also seemed less likely to understeer, and actually had more of a drift at the limit, which could be easily corrected with the brakes.

    The GTP brakes very fast, but the tail gets a little loose if go from hard acceleration to full braking very suddenly at high speeds. The GS had about the same braking, but always stayed straight.

    I think both these cars are under rated by many drivers and reviewers. I have show many a BMW, Acura, and Maxima nothing but tail lights either accelerating, cornering, or braking.

    I truly advise you to really test drive some hard before replacing your GS. I believe the car offers better performance than many cars, with superior 0-60, skidpad, slalom, and 60-0 numbers.
  • verdi942verdi942 Posts: 304
    tsu - I hear the same whine as the shifts approach during my troubles. I'm bringing the car in to the dealer for routine service and will spell out the problem for him. It's probably hard for him to duplicate the condition, but maybe there's a service bulletin? At worst, if the tranny goes, let it be under warranty.
  • evizeevize Posts: 33
    I have switched to Synthetic oil, as some of you have done which means I don't have to change as often, however I have reached the point now where the filter needs changing. I know the filter is visible when the right wheel is turned to the right.

    Question..... can the filter be changed relatively easily with the car on the ground & the wheels turned?? I'd would like to do this myself if possible.... Anyone done this??
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Removing and replacing the filter is no problem exactly as you described. I really couldn't believe that GM actually got this one right.
  • evizeevize Posts: 33
    Great! I'll give it a try. BTW, do you use a tool for this or just reach in by hand & remove the filter?

    Thanks again.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    On the inital removal, I had to use an oil filter wrench as it was tightened at the factory. I hand tighten my oil filters so that subsequent removal did not require the wrench. So...you could initially try it by hand and if you can't remove it then an oil filter wrench might be needed. All else fails you can always stick a screwdriver through it and twist.
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