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Buick Regal

17677798182111

Comments

  • What is it, where is it, and what does it do? I'll be delighted to demand its replacement, and thanks to the magic of warranty coverage, won't have to touch my wallet. Thanks for the info.
  • The module that controls the Advanced Braking System [and the traction control, too?].
  • evizeevize Posts: 33
    Any recommendations for spark plugs for my '98
    GS? Is there something better than the GM ones.
    I have some kind of NGK in there now that were put
    in by the previous owner.

     Thanks in advance for any help. Ed
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Since your car is made for platinum plugs, I'd try the ACDelco iridium plugs. They are like a performance platinum plug. :)
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    The Iridium Plugs are the ACDelco ITRA4A-15...Gap at .060...

    I've a 2002GS...But I've replaced them with ACDelco 41-932's which are one range colder because of some modifications ...
  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    Buy a good extended warranty and don't worry about it. I've had mine in the shop about 2/3 times per year so far. I'd say that is about average for a used car, and I'm putting 15k a year on it.

    Things I've had to do on my 98 GS...

    Supercharger Cone replaced 2 times
    Ignition Switch replaced
    2 window motors
    New fog light assembly
    New Battery, Tires and Brakes (as expected)

    I have a bit of oil leak and the window lock switch has broken (going to take it in soon to have these fixed)

    Buick needs to put some better quality into the interior and get away from the plastic.

    The love of the cheap horsepower suckered me in. I'm not complaining. You get what you pay for.
  • kdawg79kdawg79 Posts: 26
    Two months ago I traded my problematic 98 Buick GS in on a 03 Honda Accord EX-V6 Leather. I couldn't be happier. I have over 5000 miles on the Honda and it has been flawless. It is so much nicer and better designed than the Buick it is unbelievable. The leather is better, the controls are better, the sound system is better. By this time in the Buick's mileage and age life cycle I had already had to have a bunch of stuff fixed. I still have 240 horses and I get quite a bit better mileage. The Accord isn't the low end drag racer that the Buick was but how often do you drag race your 4 door Buick. The mid-range and upper end power in the Accord is excellent. I may never buy another American car again.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Well, I guess you can now go over to the honda board and bemoan with them when things happen...Enjoy your new car...And for some of us who do take our Buicks to the strip, I do enjoy blowing the doors off hondas...
  • I have driven the '04 Regal and I would like to know how others have found its reliability and comfort. I am replacing a '98 Toyota Avalon, and what something that would travel well, trips from FL to OH--about 20 hours in the car. Any comments appreciated. How is the GM service. I am in N FL.
    Thanks!
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    If you are looking also for excitement that the Toyota didn't give you, then get a GS...

    There should be good buys on them as the Regal name goes away next year...And as they really haven't changed in the past couple years...The reliabilty of mine has been teriffic...Have had 3 Buicks so far, 2002GS now, but you can always get a bad one, just like the many Toyotas that go bad...Good long driver, do a lot of San Francisco to LA trips...

    Just a thought...If you are looking at a 2004...Look around for a 2003 GS...Exact same car and you could really save...
  • tmac8tmac8 Posts: 32
    I have a fully loaded 2002 Regal LS with the 16" wheel GT suspension (black), and am extremely happy with this automobile. No problems with it at all, and only one recall. Jack44 had a good idea and I'll tell you why. My Regal listed for $29,000 new, and Kelly blue book selling to private party now is 15-16,000 dollars. Even with zero percent financing on a five year loan, you won't be able to sell it within that time without having to come up with pocket cash to pay off the loan. Don't get me wrong, I'd buy another one in a heartbeat, I would just buy one a year old and let someone else eat the massive depreciation. That's my opinion...hope it helps.
    Tom
  • I am having trouble with 3 of my window motors and the switch contact pad (as I'd call it) for the driver's side window. What was the ave price you paid for motor replacement and was it done at a dealership or private mech. shop? It's not too far down my horizon so I'll have to shortchange everyone at Christmas and fix the windows :-(

    I've not been by in a while, but read all the threads arguing about Buick quality, etc. I have a 98 GS and it's not quite the lemon but it has "issues". The aforementioned window motors need to be replaced, the rack & pinion steering had to be replaced at 60k, it suffers from something called 'radial force variation' and is almost impossible to fit tires upon and will wiggle like Britney Spears on stage if you're not careful, the climate control display has failed twice, the oil pan gasket has had to be replaced, the valve covers are leaking oil (relatively small leak now but have to keep my eye on it) and the tranny is flaring as it is shifting into 3rd and 4th gear.

    And, before anyone jumps on me for wondering if I lack in the "due diligence" dept, yes, I check the items I should check regularly and have it checked by a mechanic on a reg basis so I can take advantage of his eye for problems, in addition to what is/isn't done at the dealership where I bought the car.

    The car represents qualities that I like...the size, built-in performance, the Buick name and ride, but even though CR gives it a much better than average to excellent rating, I cannot deny that the current and future liabilities side of things is fast overtaking the assets side. As a kid in my teens and 20's, I drove a 1984 LeSabre (not exactly your babe-mobile) and got 261,000 miles out of it before I got rid of it.

    I really doubt that will be an issue with my Regal...unfortunately. It is a beautiful car with a ton of potential. There are those of you out there with great experiences to report and I am envious of you, trust me. It's not that all Regals are junk, but just that there isn't an overall guiding principle at work at companies like GM to assure build quality. No car is perfect but one can read the various threads on Edmunds and if your only yardsticks are # of complaints and their cost, US badged companies tend to lead the pack, unfortunately.
  • pinettedpinetted Posts: 104
    Bigunit67 I can also add the oil pan gasket to the growing list of problems my car has had. How much did it cost to have the gasket replaced?
  • kdawg79kdawg79 Posts: 26
    Hey bigunit,

    I had the three power window motors that went on my 98 GS and the three that went out on my MOm's 98 GS done at the dealership under the extended warranty. If I remember right they were about $500 each on the bill but some of that could have been because they were getting to charge it off to the extended warranty. In case you didn't see my earlier post, I finally traded my GS for an 03 Accord EX-V6 leather and I really like it so far.

    pinetta,

    I had two pan gaskets and finally a new pan put on mine. I don't remember the cost exactly but it was pretty substantial. I think I shredded most of the bills when I traded the car but I'll check and see. If I don't have it my Mom still has her 98 GS and she has had two pan gaskets put on it so I can check with her on the cost. It was also done at the dealership on extended warranty so it might be a little higher than what you would pay.

    kdawg
  • Hey man,

    I got that replaced on my car when it was purchased. It was leaking when it had all of 19,000 miles on it (nice huh?). I don't know cost, but it took about 40 dollars worth of parts and 5 hours of shop labor, in the words of the service dept manager when he told me what they had to do. It's not as simple as just replacing the gasket. Since this is a "modern car", you have to remove a bunch of other stuff (including having the front end realigned) in order to do the job.
  • pinettedpinetted Posts: 104
    Kdawg79 and bigunit67 thanks for the replies. This car has been one big disappointment other than its performance. It has had problems in so many different areas its a joke. We live and learn.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Had to have mine tightened at 900 miles but since then no problem. To date, 3 years and 49,000 miles the gasket leak, air bag in steering column and tire related issues but last few years a great car, the 3.8 L is a tank IMO and will easily go over 100,000 miles.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,375
    The 3.8L probably has 200 K in it. A used car dealer lives two houses up and he talks about 200K 300K in them as used cars as beaters. My 93 had 155K on it and used less than .5 quart in 3000 miles. It was lower in power than it had been before. Probably timing chain stretching or worn. Would have been worth it to keep to see how long the thing would go. Transmission was perfect.
  • I had the opportunity to visit my local Buick service center today (they were extremely helpful) and found out from a mechanic that the supercharger oil should be changed every 30K miles. This is NOT listed in the owners manual...they just suggest checking and adding as needed. Needless to say, I bought two bottles of supercharger oil for a total of $16 and a little squeeze-ball suction device from Autozone and in less than 10 minutes, the job was done. Warning: Used supercharger oil is the most foul smelling stuff in the world.

    Anyway, I have a '98 GS with 79K miles and no problems whatsoever. The car has just been incredible. Would I buy another one? If I had the cash, I would buy five.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Well, I think it depends. I did change mine out at around 20,000 miles but it was neither foul smelling nor dirty in any manner. I refilled with synthetic 0W30 (understand the GM part is synthetic 5W30)and now have 49,000. I check the level every 10,000 or so but it is remaining clear and looks good. I do need to add a small amount each time which is a little strange on a sealed unit but I could just be putting more in then called for, you really cannot overfill as it is similar to a rear end, will flow out if overfilled. Manual says only to check it every 30,000 miles. IMO, if it is clear and no foul odor you can leave it in there.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    From a friend...

    there are motor mounts in the way... you have to lift the engine some 8 inches... then there is an oil pick up and other clearance issues...

    it pays a mechanic 5 hours...
    I had one done in under 3 in my garage...

    well... here is how to do it...

    jack the car up... yes... it’s against auto 101... but use only 1 jack... you need the room to move around... remove the passenger front wheel... remove belts... pull off ac compressor... drain oil... an replace oil pan plug... CAREFULLY... pull the oil level sensor out... straight and GENTALLY!!!! This is a $50 sensor... Then, there are some plastic panels that need to come off to get to all the oil pan bolts... The oil pan bolts are 10mm... but a 3/8 seems to grip better... pull off as many oil pan screws as possible... you should be able to get them all ... air tools are your friend here... now... to get clearance to move the pan out.. remove all the dog bones... place the jack under the pan with a piece of wood between the jack and the pan... and lift the engine... lift the engine high enough to get the lower motor mount out... this is held in with 4 bolts… two on top 2 on bottom… 15mm bolts IIRC… then.. put about 6-8 inches of wood between the frame and balance pulley...(the big bottom one) this is to hold up the engine... now lower the jack... grab a 15mm ratchet wrench... and take off the motor mount bolts on either side of the block... there are 5... (small hands required) now work the pan out... careful of the oil pick up...

    now... that the pan is out... clean the pan, and the engine’s gasket seat... use a drying agent like brake cleaner, carb cleaner, or paint thinner to clean the gasket seat... put the new gasket in... But, prep the gasket first... There are 4 sides to the gasket... long and short... (front and back) on the 2 short sides and about 2 inches into the long sides going around the bends... apply RTV sealant... use a blue RTV sealant so you can see what you are doing... don’t be stingy... then put the gasket up... then the metal motor mount… then the pan... then put the pan up... then put RTV on every bolt and put them in... torque the bolts to ~120in lbs starting front the center bolt alternating sides with each torque in a circular alternating pattern... put everything else back... replace motor mount side bolts... lower the engine the same way you raised it... then lower bolts... put the oil level sensor back... CAREFULLY to 9-11FTlbs... Replace harness... then dog bones... then replace your oil filter... then make sure you didn’t leave anything off... like plastic panels... replace belts... and add 4 and a half quarts of oil... replace the wheel... lower the car… and try her out!
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    I've been having two re-occurring problems with my '00 GS and I'm a month away from warranty expiration.

    1. The front windshied fogs up when starting the car. Whether the engine is cold or hot, that darn foggy film will appear. Sure, I can hit a switch and it goes away in a couple minutes. But I shouldn't have to do that again and again and again and... This is the third time this requires attention.

    2. The outside temperature gauge gives false information. It could be 95 degrees outside but it will read 70 degrees. Doesn't effect the HVAC system, but it is an annoyance. This will be the fourth time I 'll have this attended to.

    I'll be taking the car in this week for its final warranty period check-up and I'll have these problems corrected. I'd like to get one more year out of this car. Come next year, I'll be looking at a higher end SUV or along the lines of an M45. Overall, I'm pleased with the cars performance and general comfort level. But fit an finish are still a distant second to the Japanese cars (yes, even those made in America).
  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    I recently had some work done to my Regal, which included new plugs and wires, a tune up, and a coolant flush,fill. During the coolant change I had the shop check my hoses and replace the thermostat. I was returning from a drive in Northern New Jersey when the low coolant light came on for a couple of minutes, went out then stayed on again for a couple of minutes. The temp gauge never got above midway and I turned the heater on high. This morning I checked the level and it looked low. I later added some coolant. I just hope it is not the head gasket going. A water pump or something like that I can deal with. The car is a 99 GS and has 80,780 miles on it. A lot of what other people are or have experienced, I have too. The shop I took the car to is very reputable, but this is now really bugging me because of the problems associated with the DEXCOOL. I will let everyone know how it turns out.
  • nimmernimmer Posts: 6
    My family regal coupe has 50,000 miles on it. What do you guys/gals think about the following:

    Drain completely the radiator coolant and replace with new coolant.

    Drain the auto transmission fluid and replace the filter and add new auto trans fluid

    Drain completely and replace new brake fluid.

    Thoughts about these items and things that I should be aware of.

    Thanks
  • guy21guy21 Posts: 129
    Has anyone else looked at their front body lift points and found them collapsed. Basically these are just a welded body seam behind the front wheels that GM says are o.k. to lift the front of the vehicle from. At 60,000 miles, these seams on my Regal have folded over and are pushing up into the body. Has anyone addressed this with their dealer or GM?

    The rear points are the same design but don't seem to collapse, probably due to the lower weight of that end of the vehicle.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Check the A/C also...
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    I am willing to be the reason for the low coolant light is simply they failed to add enough coolant to the overflow tank which is where the light switch is triggered. Happens all the time,. too cheap to add a little extra coolant. Or, the switch itself could be bad but unlikely. They may also have not released all the trapped air in the system with the flush
  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    If the shop that I took my car to did not add enough coolant, I would think that the light would have come on sooner. It has been a month since the car was at the shop. I will say this though, the trip the other night was the longest the car had been on since it was in the shop.I did alot of town driving. I don't know if that had anything to do with it. So far since I have added coolant, no problems yet.
  • Some of you a while back were talking about putting new plugs, like the ACDelco iridium plugs for instance, in your Regal's when you changed out. I've got a standard non-modified GS and wondered what differences you guys noticed when moving up the spark plug food chain in everyday use?

    Thanks...
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    If your car is not modified, there would be no appreciable difference...Other than not having to change plugs for 100K miles...as they say...

    If you go to Iridium plugs, the ones I took out of my 2002GS are [ ITR4A 15 ]...ACDelco Part# 12568387...Gap at [.060]
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