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Buick Regal

18283858788111

Comments

  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    I was told a few years ago that he SC oil is nothing more the a 5W30 synthetic motor oil. As such about 30,000 miles ago I changed mine and used synthetic 0W30 and it has been functioning fine, it was clear when I changed it at about 20,000 miles and still clear at over 50,000 miles.

    Yes, it does recommned premioum gas for the SC however, it does run on 89 octane. However, I consistently get over 30mpg on the highway with this engine due to the great overdrive. Not many cars like this will even get over 25 mpg.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    I just purchased a 1999 Buick LS with 55,000 miles. While reading through the owners manual I was surprized to see that the air conditioning compressor comes on when the outside temp is over 40 degrees F. This seems unusual as I don't know to many people who would want the air conditioning on in this temp. Maybe, 60 degrees F on a sunny day. Any thoughts on this matter? Wouldn't this have a tendency to cut down on the life of the compressor? Anyone have any problems with their compressor? Thanks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,183
    Do the controls have a button for vent that turns off the compressor?

    Actually it's better for the compressor to run in cold climates whenever the ambient does get above 40 degrees to keep the seals and oil in shape. Of course you can turn it off with the vent button after a few minutes, if you have a vent button other choice the stop sthe compressor.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Thanks Imidazol, I guess it's going to take a little while getting use to the buttons with the auto. climate control. The vent button does turn the compressor on and off. The vent indicator is lit when the compressor is OFF...which is stupid because it should be lit when the compressor is on. The owners manual doesn't address getting heat.
    But, my main concern is not running the compressor unless I need to.
    I had the air conditioning on yesterday and it was putting out ice cold air. So, I'm not gonna complain to much.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,183
    From the design standpoint of set it and forget it having the light off for normal operation where the system decided when to have the compressor or does make sense to me. Having the compressor running does help clean and dry the air at some temperatures where you wouldn't think it would make things feel more comfortable. Having it run probably takes less gas than having the windows open at higher speeds.

    My only complaint about my related (LeSabre) system is that the vent can stay on when key is turned off and will be vent when I restart rather than compressor running. But the recirculate choice always turns off when the key goes off and I have to reset it to recirculate. In some seasons I'd just like for it to stay on.
  • verdi942verdi942 Posts: 304
    Unless it's a day when you want to turn the system off, open the window, and enjoy the fresh air. I like to be easy on the machinery, too, but I notice no difference in performance or gas mileage with the system on [compressor running] or off. My only complaint is that the fan's a little noisy. Actually, it's not the fan but the sound of air leaving the vents that should be quieter. Maybe they'll do it better in the new LaCrosse...Overall, love the Regal, though...
  • infinia1infinia1 Posts: 174
    I just recently bought a 94 regal coupe, 1 owner from CA, only 71K, great shape, 3.8, for $2700. I drove it home about 250 miles and it ran great. This past weekend tho, I took it on a 200 mile trip and the service engine soon lite (SES) came on. Autozone was no help-they say that they can't scan a 94 GM W-body because it's "the year between OBD I and OBD II". I changed the pcv valve, fuel fiter, air filter, plugs, and plug wires, wanting everything fresh. There's a slight miss when the transmission shifts into overdrive at about 60 mph that I'm thinking may have something to do with the SES lite since it only comes on when driving at higher speeds. can anyone help? thanks.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Someone out there with a lot more experience than I have can probably point you right to it, but have you considered changing out the coolant and tranny fluid? Are they currently at the right levels? Condition?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,183
    Is this one of the cars where the A and B terminals can be jumped with a paper clip and a code read from the check engine light?
    I know the newer cars can't be read out that way but my 93 LeSabre could.

    My guess on the 'miss' is that it's the trans locking up after the shift from 3rd to 4th and the TCC locks up. I don't know when the transmissions got the slip modulated TCC that my 98 has a minor problem with.

    Try keeping the left foot slightly on the brake pedal to turn the brake lights on. That will keep the TCC from engaging and see if the 'miss' still feels like it's there.

    My 93 had a fluttering under light acceleration at 55 or so and that was just the uneveness of the engine being transmitted by the solid lockup of the TCC. A prom replacement fixed it at lower speeds by keeping the trans from locking up as soon. The 98 has a slip built in to the TCC that keeps the uneveness of the engine from being transmitted.
  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    Drive them both and then decide if the power of the GS is something you can live without. I first drove a supercharged Riviera and I knew I needed the power. Well, I didn't need it, but I sure enjoyed stomping the pedal down.
  • infinia1infinia1 Posts: 174
    Resolved! well-halfway at least. I did have to pay to have my Regal scanned. Other auto stores i tried were willing to help...until i told them the year-94. All of them could only help with 96 or newer. anyways...the scan showed a bad egr valve. i paid for the scan and said i would see about the repair, wanting to see if i could do it myself. i did locate it easily and it seems very accessible...but is there anything i should know before i attempt this? the price is about $150 for the part new. is this an item i should not buy from the junkyard? thanks again.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,183
    Glad you have a resolution. If you want to do it twice, get a junkyard part. Odds are you'll be replacing it with a new one soon enough.

    I'd split for the new one and fix it once.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    O.K, I've decided to set the auto. climate control and forget about adjusting it manually on the LS model I purchased in April.What temp. setting do you guys/ladies set yours at? How often do you need to adjust for the seasons. Also, there is a short in my climate control display which shows the temp, fan setting, etc. One day it lights up..the next it does not. It doesn't bother me a lot. But, are there any wires under the dash that I could check? Would it be worth having a mechanic check it out? Does anyone know how big a job it would be tracking down the loose connection? I don't want to spend a lot of money to have this fixed...or have an incompetent mechanic make things worse. Any help on this would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • bennycheckbennycheck Posts: 43
    Not sure what you mean by the fan lights not working all the time. Is the fan running and are the lights out at the same time? If you're setting the climate control on auto, the fan will only come on as its needed. It also won't come on for heat until the engine temp is warm enough to throw heat.
         If it is running and the indicator lights aren't on, then you may indeed have a short in the control unit which is very expensive. Not sure if you can change the LEDs in the unit.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Maybe I can take a shot at this one. As many of us on this forum know firsthand, the display on the automatic climate control in Regals is a known problem. Ours worked fine when it was new, then started dimming on and off until finally the display quit altogether. Dealer replaced under warranty, but it is one of the reasons we purchased an extended warranty ($600+ parts and labor for this part). Hopefully others will chime in with their ideas, but here are a couple to start things off: You can try visiting http://www.regalgs.org/howto.shtml to repair the one you have, or you can buy one on eBay for substantially less and install it yourself using the helpful tips gained from regalgs.org. As far as what temp setting to use, that's just a matter of trial and error until you find the one that works for your comfort level.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Thanks Bennychecks and tsu670. The link was a real help in understanding the problem. I don't want to spend any significant amount of money on new or used parts & don't know if a dealer would agree to the method described in the link(soldering loose resistors)...they would probably insist on installing a new one. Or, maybe an automotive electric shop would. It really didn't look that complicated...so maybe I'll have a go at it. Take care.
  • hrguyhrguy Posts: 5
    I understand there is a GM service bulletin dealing with the false reading on the low tire warning light. I asked the dealer and they said there may be but it would cost me $50 for them to just look and see if there is a problem. Like several others have stated, the light on my 99 GSE comes on occasionally for no apparent reason. I check the pressure, it is OK in all 4 tires, and I reset the system. A couple weeks later, I do it all over again. My concern is that I may someday ignore it when it is "for real".
    Does anyone know what is in the "service bulletin"?
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    FWIW, last week I drove round trip from Los Angeles to Las Vegas in my '00 Regal GS w/ 37,000 miles. Driving between 70 - 80 MPH with the a/c on and about 40 lbs in the trunk, I got a very respectable 29.2 mpg.

    On the flip side, if I was driving in stop and go slow traffic in L.A., I'm lucky to get 15 mpg.
     
    ...just thought I'd share.
  • dano42dano42 Posts: 11
    I have a 1995 Regal 3.8 with 100K miles. Overall it has been a great car but i just started to experience problems when starting. Sometimes it does not start, sometimes tt starts rough,and the lights sometimes flicker erratically.

    Has anyone experienced this problem? If so, how was it fixed?

    Thank you very much for your help!
  • jbmjbm Posts: 29
    Hi gang, I'm an infrequent contributer to this board and I wanted to advise you on some repairs i just had done on my 2002 Buick Regal GS with 30,000 mi. This is just an FYI if you experience similar problems.

    1.) I was noticing a vibration when braking, not a warped rotor vibration but an uneven, subtle one. I thought my brake pads were going, too (due to long travel on the brake pedal). Brought it in to Buick mechanic and my rear rotors had surface rust (hence the vibration), they were resurfaced for free under factory warranty. The brakes were adjusted and they said I have 70% of my pads left, they feel brand new. They adjusted my parking brake too, for whatever reason.

    2.)My driver's side fog lamp was collecting moisture. Seems there was a service bulletin about this and both fog lamps were replaced for free.

    That's all, hope this helps some of you who own similar cars.

    -jbmalik
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Just a follow up to your fog light info...Thanks...

    ...and a nice upgrade to fogs is replacing the stock ones with Sylvania Silverstars, 893ST's...This along with Headlight bulb replacements with Silverstars gives much improved lighting...
  • gary2gary2 Posts: 4
    Dear Jack44
    In regards to your comments about changing fog lights...Do you mean just upgrade the bulbs? How much difference does it make?
    I have always thought the fogs did little more than look good and the regular headlights were weak and shadowy. I will look into your ideas. Thanks! Any ideas on how to clean the inside of headlight lenses? Mine are getting a film on the inside. I tried to get GM to replace under my extended warranty, but they wouldn't do it.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Hi Gary2. If you mean the inside of the lens has condensation, this is a fairly common problem. Often happens due to high pressure wands at do-it-yourself car washes. The entire headlamp assembly can be easily removed without any tools. Just slide out a couple of black plastic clips from the back. On the back of the assembly are 3 or 4 round rubber covers. You can remove them and direct warm air from a hair dryer inside the lens to remove the condensation. If the film is something else, you can buy a new assembly, but the dealer wants over $200 for it, then probably another $75 to install and aim it. An alternative is eBay. Search on 'Buick headlight'. The same unit fits 1997 - 2004 Buick Regal and Century models. You can generally pick one up for under $50 plus another $10 or so for S&H. For that price you should get the assembly and all bulbs. Don't pay more. If all that is available are over $50, check back in a day or two. Of course, you will need to adjust the new headlight for proper aim after installation.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Re: Fog Light Upgrade......

    1. They do look better...
    2. They are far brighter than the "So Called Stock Fog Lights"...I live in a hilly forrested area with no light and I can turn off headlights and run just Fog Lights...Not that I do, but the illumination is really something...
  • gary2gary2 Posts: 4
    Jack44,
    Thanks again, Wished I had known about the Silverstars the first time I replaced the fog bulbs. I will look into getting a set now or the next time they burn out. Can you buy them at any auto parts store? I expect they are pricey.

    As far as the film on my headlight lenses... it is not condensation, just a film that would wipe off nicely if you could get at it. It is not bad enough to want to go through the trouble to replace the entire assembly...yet. My dealer wanted $350 ea to do the entire job.

    Let me comment on something you said in your previous post....Normally you can't turn on the fogs without the headlights being on. And, if it is dark enough for the headlights to come on automatically, you can't turn them off....Unless you disable the auto system with a series of goofy steps I think is addressed in the owners manual.
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    I think...if you turn on only your parking lamps (in other words, pull open the headlamp knob only to the first step), the fogs can stay on. This can be done with or without your headlights set to come on automatically as it gets dark.
  • jjb1jjb1 Posts: 1
    What is the significance, if any, of the "Joseph Abboud" nameplate on Buick Regals? Relative just bought a 2001 used - has this tag on drivers door lower front (outside). Have noticed it on a couple other Regals in parking lots
  • verdi942verdi942 Posts: 304
    I drive an '02 LS Abboud. Besides the little badges, the package included the GT suspension, 16" wheels, sunroof, leather, Monsoon radio and a few other options. Same car, LS or GS, otherwise. I got it because it had what I wanted for less than the options ordered separately.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    I started to think about installing transmission radiator in my 2000 Regal GS - if my wife let me. And/or installing bigger brakes, probably Impala ones (11.9").

    Does anybody have experience with the mods? If yes, how much it costs? How long it takes? Where to do it: at dealer, performance shop, etc.?
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    There is a lot of information available on mods...You can check the vendors sites like intense-racing.com or zzperformance.com and for the best info regalgs.org where you can find out from people who have actually done what you are contemplating...Hope this helps...
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