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Buick Regal

18485878990111

Comments

  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    No the climate control is not the automatic one.
    My father had the car fixed on Tuesday, and so far it has been fine. The description you gave was exactly the problem he was having with his car. I guess I did not explain it very well, sorry.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    It is absolutely normal.

    I always see a condensate from A/C in summer time under all kinds of cars. High air humidity, and cold parts. Do not need to drive 1350 miles; 5 to 7 miles is more than enough to see a plenty of the condensate in our places, Southern Connecticut. Regal is not different from other cars in this respect.

    My wife and I have a 2000 Regal GS and 98 Malibu, and had a 1988 Taurus before. All of them produce puddles of waters from A/C. What car did you have before your GSE?
  • steprovsteprov Posts: 9
    Thanks for your response. It's reassuring to know that this is a "normal" problem. Before the Regal I had a '93 Caravan. Very versitile & reliable, but not much fun to drive. I also own a "90 LeBarron Convertable which I only use during the Summer on "top down days". My wife drives a '00 Mitsubishi Gallant. It's a nice car, but she'd rather drive the Regal...
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    The humidity at your places must be much lower than at ours. I opened your profile and found the town where you live, than looked where it is on mapquest. Naples Maine is far from ocean.

    By the way, a couple of years ago we had a short vacation in White Mountains, NH. Criss-crossed the mountains in different directions, and drove around them. Were in Conway, NH, and crossed about 10 miles into Maine. Fryeburg, East Fryeburg - I remember the names. According to the map, it is very close from your home.

    It was a pleasure to drive our Regal GS on the mountain roads. Looks like Impala LS is very popular around the White Mountains. We did not see many Regals, though.
  • gweilogweilo Posts: 118
    I know the 3.8 has a good rep but does the SC decrease its lifespan/reliability?
    any tips for most important Regal issues to look for when considering a used one? I'm talking about one with 90k miles
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    It may have been driven harder...The SC if taken care of [changing the SC oil] should be fine...Check by the radiator overflow tank to see if there is excessive black deposits...That would indicate a bad blower belt...

    The problem areas are transmission and some of the electronics, heater/AC control module...But if taken care of.....OK...

    What year...From private party or dealer???
  • gweilogweilo Posts: 118
    '99 on a Chevy dealer lot. Not GM certified but has limited 1 month warranty. $6500
    I'm surprised about the transmission. some kind of ongoing problems? Seems like most GM trannies are pretty good. I have 192k on my '90 Cavalier...never an issue with the tranny.
    interesting point about it possibly being driven harder. Does Carfax give demographics of previous owner? Otherwise, the car is immaculate. Kind of a l ot for a high miler but teh regal seems to have a good rep as well as the 3.8.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    Some risk as unavoidable when buying used car. 90k miles is a good sign for year 99: probably most of them were highway miles.

    GS and other supercharged cars by GM have a heavy duty engine. Not exactly the same as the 3800 in Regal LS, Impala LS, Grand Prix GT. Beefed up to match the supercharger. Stronger internal parts, bolts, etc. Not sure about the block itself.

    I heard only good words concerning GM transmissions. Regal GS (and Grand Prix GTP) have a very good, beefed-up, heavy duty transmission, to match the engine. No ongoing problems with the tranny. Some complaints that it is not very reliable when racing with substantially modifying engine, after upgrading its power 300 hp or so. Hardly relevant to the average owner.

    However, everything happens. Especially with used cars.

    Do you know how often the previous owner serviced the transaxle?

    GM recommends 100,000 miles between services for ideal conditions: highway, flat terrains, etc. 50,000 miles for "severe duty", like driving in hilly/mountain areas or in the stop-and-go city traffic. Personally, I changed the fluid after 33,000 miles or so. At first, dealer suggested to flush the transmission only, without replacing filter. However, when flushing mechanic saw dirty old fluid coming out, dropped the pan, and replaced the filter. So, 50k miles between the services looks too much for our car, driven mostly in city, in hilly Connecticut.

    The general population of Regal owners looks very solid. At least in Connecticut. Judging by driving style, and by drivers look.

    I doubt Carfax provides the data. However, you can ask your insurance company for insurance rates for GS and GP GTP, and compare them. I saw some insurance statistics: Buick beats Pontiac easily. Less accidents, less injuries, and way less theft. The two cars are basically the same under the skin. I believe, the difference is due to different population of owners.
  • gweilogweilo Posts: 118
    I haven't even talked to a salesperson..just saw it on the lot. From what I hear, dealers often get used cars through auctions so there may be little knowledge. can you track a VIN back to registration?
    Assuming it's a wise move, what would you ask an uninvolved mechanic to look for prior to purchase?
  • mrrogersmrrogers Posts: 391
    My wife's 98 Regal LS has 98,000 miles, and the key is beginning to hang up in the ignition switch. Sometimes I have to go from neutral to park about three times and wiggle the key to remove it. The spare key is almost new, and it behaves the same way, so I don't think it is the key. Has anyone else had this problem? Do I dare spray WD40 into the switch? Is replacing the switch a do-it-yourself type job, or are there special tools involved where I will need to take it to the dealer?
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Some times this happens with a dying battery...E-mail me and I'll give you several other ideas...
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Jack44, we'd welcome a post on your other ideas right here - that way all of our readers can benefit from your assistance.

    :)
  • mrrogersmrrogers Posts: 391
    I have priced the ignition lock cylinder for my wife's 98 Regal LS. Part number is 26054914. The GM list price is $106.58. I got a quote from GM Parts Direct at $53.29 plus shipping. My ignition keys have the computer chip in them, and I would like to keep them. Does anyone know if I can take the keys and both the old and new ignition lock cylinders to a locksmith so he could make the new ignition lock cylinder work with the old keys?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,535
    The only way you keep your old ($28) passkey ignition key is if the new lock happens to have valleys that would each be deeper than the corresponding valley on the key you have now.

    I went through this on my 93 Lesabre when the sensor wires to the resistor in the key started breaking.

    Do you have a service manual about how to remove the steering wheel and disable the airbag and then diassemble the parts down to the cylinder? I recommend reading that FIRST before deciding if yo're going to do it yourself. I "believe" the cost for my replacement was $188.

    Have you determined that the cylinder is the problem and not the rotating parts around it in the column nor the wire leading down to and including the switch for the ignition itself???

    The ignition switch is above your brake pedal on top of the steering column. You could loosen it and remove the rod from it and try turning the key to see if the resistance is at the top of the column or in the switch at the bottom... Perhaps I've missed a message here where you've already explain your diagnosis. I'm just nervous about working anywhere around airbags in the cars.
  • fordhorrorfordhorror Posts: 20
    Hi,
    I have a 96 Buick Regal. The car runs great, but past 4 months there is this Squeaking noise coming out of the hood. I have sprayed the belt dresser on the serpentine belt (The belt and the tensioner are new). The noise does not stop. Any idea..? Please help.
    Thanks,
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    I would like to increase the horsepower and torque in my '98 GS when my extended warranty runs out next year. Just about everybody I've talked to said to change the S/C pulley to either 3.25" or 3.00". They also said to change the plugs to a high performance type, install a 180 degree thermostat, and have the computer tweaked. Which pulley size would you recommend? I don't want to put too much stress on the engine and tranny with too much S/C boost. Thanks.
  • mrrogersmrrogers Posts: 391
    I am bringing the car in to my local dealer Friday. I will report the outcome.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    If you have no mods at this time...The smallest pulley would be a 3.4"...A 180* thermostat will help cool things down...And going one range colder a plug, like the AC Delco 41-932 is a good choice...There are new PCM's that can be purchased and also new Cold Air Intakes that you should install...Or just gut the innerds of your existing airbox...All that helps...and there are a lot of places that you can find information on upgrading...Our cars are pretty stong, so there's a lot to do to them before they break...
  • mrrogersmrrogers Posts: 391
    I mentioned in several entries on this site that I am having trouble removing the key from the ignition in my wife's 98 Regal LS. I took the car to the dealer yesterday. The diagnosis is that I need a new switch located in front of the floor shifter. This switch keeps you from removing the key unless the car is in park. The service advisor told me they usually fail after a customer has spilled a drink out of one of the dual cupholders. I remember several years ago having an unopened can of orange soda in the left cupholder, and leaning over to get something out of the glove compartment while the car was parked. I must have leaned against the soda can too hard as I punctured a pinhole in the can and sent sticky soda everywhere. Besides the switch, I also need a new shifter. Total bill is $684. I will pick up the car Monday.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    With the hood open...where does the sound come from???...

    Other thought...Water pump going out?...
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    If you look at the GS model at 90,000 miles or so assure that the plugs get chnaged (100,000 mile plugs but let them do it) and the coolant and the ranny fluid. Also the passenger air filter. (amazing how many dealers (GM but not Buick, do not know this exists) Have them change the SC oil (easy to do but have them do it) I had 1 2000 with 62,000 miles, grat engine, it was a co. cart and I lost it so I went out and found a 2000 GS with 25,000 miles. The 3.8L is a GM workhorse and the SC I do not feel adds any conncers on reliabiltiy.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    "grat engine, it was a co. cart and I lost"???

    English is a very difficult language.
  • tonyf2tonyf2 Posts: 24
    Pulsating brakes-
    I took the car to the dealer today and they told me I had two problems, the rear rotors had to be turned down and my right front tire had the belts shifted. These are the original Firestone 680 tires. It so happens the front tires are almost new.

    It took them about an hour to cut the rotors. The brakes now work fine.

    I had another problem over the week end with my wife's '98 regal. I was on the GSP going to the shore doing the speed limit (65/70mph) when I lost power with my power steering. I was lucky to be able to pull over to the shoulder and stop.

    When I lifted the hood I found the belt all shredded and the idler pully gone. I had to get towed off and to a local gas station to have it repaired. This was a very scary situation
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Sorry about the Firestones...Probably the last choice I would make for a tire...Well, maybe not even a choice...
  • tonyf2tonyf2 Posts: 24
    I replaced all four tires yesterday on both mine and my wife's car with Michelin "harmony" tires.

    Both cars ride better now than when they were new. I'm going to Cape Cod next week, I'm going to enjoy the ride.
  • verdi942verdi942 Posts: 304
    On a recent 70 mph run to the shore and back, I clocked 290 miles on just 7.6 gallons. That's 38 mpg +! Take that you DOHC high-revvin' imports!
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    I had a 2000 Buick GSE with the 3.8L SC engine. Had to give it up but that engine was smooth and very quiet, had 60,000 miles on it. I replaced it with another 2000 GS with only 25,000 miles.

    However, when hot this one has a noticeable clacking noise which is stronger on the passenger side tire well. Could be water pump, or pulley bearings but to me sounds more like push rods clacking away etc. Disturbing as the other 3.8L was quiet.

    Anyone out there have a similar noise with their 3.8L. Quiet when cold, only seems to be there with the engine hot after at least 10 miles of driving.?
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    When you have hood up, where does the sound come from?

    Or is is just when car is moving?
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Loudest is when you place your ear near the passenger tire. Occurs all the time, can only be heard when at idle or in gear not moving and engine hot When you are driving all other noises drown it out and increasing the engine RPMs also eliminates the noise as well.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,535
    Since it seems to increase with a hot engine, could it be the oil thinning that's letting a clogged lifter make noise? Is 10-30 oil in it? Has the car been maintained with proper oil changes? IF you just bought the car and haven't had an oil change and IF you believe it's lifters, I'd change the oil at 1000 miles a couple of times and use a top quality oil for the additive packages to clean it out. (Myself, I'd add Rislone to it for a couple hundred miles then change it.)

    To eliminate extras on the engine making the noise, take off the serpentine belt and run it for a short half-minute when it's making the noise. See if the noise stops when the belt's not turning the water pump, idler pulley, alternator, powersteering, air conditioning pulley. You might spin the pulleys on those items by hand to see if there's extra noise when they turn without load.
    Do not run the engine more than a few seconds without the belt for the waterpump.
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