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Buick Regal

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Comments

  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    My wife and I own Gran Sports. Her '00 seems much faster off-the-line than my '98. Her's has 35,000 miles and mine has 53,000. The throttle response at idle also appears to be much better with her's than mine. Both cars have never had a tune-up. I wonder if worn spark plugs or a clogged PCV could cause this problem? Both cars have been using Shell's V-Power gas, so I think I can rule out dirty fuel injectors. I recently had my tranny overhauled, but even that didn't seem to help. Both cars are getting maximum S/C boosts of 6-7 PSI. I was thinking of taking it to our Buick dealer for a complete engine diagnosis. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    Clogged air filter? 15k miles service.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,278
    1. Clear the computer in the 00 car. Disconnect the fuse for the computer for several minutes. Check to determine proper fuse, it may be in service center under the hood and NOT the fuse in the passenger compartment that is labeled in some way for the main computer.

    2. Check on the transmission ratios for the models in each car. One may have a much different lower gear ratio than the other, giving a much m"quicker" feel to the takeoff.

    3. Check on the final drive ratio for the cars.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,278
    Also I changed my 100K plugs at 45K or so. It's cheap insurance. Also changed wires at 80K.

    You may have carbon buildup. Higher octane burns more slowly leaving more carbon residue. This is according to some radio mechanics I listen to. Especially a problem for the gullable American male who buys the advertising that more power comes from higher octane -- in cars meant to use regular. Yours are supposed to use higher octane -- plus or premium.

    I use Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner occasionally. Follow directions on the plastic bottle. Use when tank is almost empty. Fill up with premium. Run low. Then use another bottle with fillup. This according to high quality mechanic on Cincy talk radio -- he owns his own shop in premium part of town.

    If car is driven on shorter trips rather than on 50mile or more high speed interstate trips, try a longer trip with it. Along with cleaner in fuel, that might bring back the original kick to the engine. Carbon buildup could be causing knock retarding the spark. My cars always run better when I get home from a long trip on vacation or weekend.
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    Thanks to everyone who responded with the great suggestions. I think I can rule out a clogged air filter, because I installed K&N filters in both cars last year. I'll call the dealer for an answer about the gear ratios for the '98 and '00 trannies. I'll try disconnecting the fuse for the '98 car's computer, and take it on a 50 mile highway trip. V-Power gas is supposed to clean intake valves as well as injectors, but I'll also try the Chevron F.S.C. as well. If these steps don't work, I'll get the plugs changed.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,278
    Let me be clear about my changing the 100K plugs at 45 or 50K. They probably are firing properly, but as the gap slowly widens on the platinum-tipped plugs, the load on the ignition coils increases. In the past this occasionally increased the chance of a coil problem, or faster deterioration of the plug wire's carbon centers.

    I change them early just to avoid this. The expense of changing the $6 plugs early by doing it myself i trivial. If you change your own, you may want to do it early. If you pay a garage to do it, you may want to wait longer.
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    Thanks for the tip imidazol. I checked on the final gear ratio for the 4T65EHD tranny (L67 engine). Here's a quote from a FAQ that was posted at Thrasher Engineering's website:

    "You're correct on the final drive ratios, but all 4T65e transaxles actually have the same 3.29:1 ratio differential. Yes, we know that the GT has a final drive of 3.29:1 and the GTP has a 2.93:1 final drive (in fact, all L67 3800 SC engines, and hence MN7 transmissions, have this 2.93:1 final drive - the Comp G's 3800 SC engine is actually known as the L26). So how is this done? It's all in the ratio of the chain sprockets, not in the differential."
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    With regard to PCM relearn...You can pull the PCM/ECM fuse or just disconnect the negative wire from battery...Several minutes won't do anything...You should leave it off for about 3 hours [overnight is good too]...

    Don't use Shell gas...I've heard form more than a few mechanics that it is the worse gas out there...A Buick mechanic was one of them...

    You might want to install Autolite 605 or AC Delco 41-932 plugs which are one range colder...You didn't mention whether you change your own plugs...

    And if you want to go faster there are several after market suppliers of speed equipment, like Intense-racing, ZZPerformance that can change your car from a 15 second 1/4 mile car to a 12 second car...
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,278
    I didn't suggest the battery because you have to reset radio buttons and memory seats and, I'm not sure on his year and model, remotes for the keyless entry system?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,278
    I've used Shell gas for 4 or 5 years along with Mobil the last two years. No problems. Early on I bought at a regional department store whose gas was Marathon parent company from what I could tell.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Only reset with battery off is clock...All my radio stations stayed...And no problem with keyless entry...

    Your car has memory seats?...
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    I removed the fuse for the EMC (located inside the fuse holder under the hood) for about 4 hours. I also inspected my K&N filter. It looked a little dirty (insects and white fuzzy seeds), so I cleaned and re-oiled it. I have noticed a big difference in the pick-up in my 1998 GS. It now feels about the same as my wife's 2000 GSE. Thanks for your suggestions.

    However, I have 2 more questions for you (or anyone else who might know):
    (1) What function does the metal screen inside the air hose (next to the throttle body) serve? It looked clean and bright, so I didn't touch it. I wonder if it's the last line of defense for dirty air.
    (2) Is there a PCV valve, and should it be replaced at regular intervals? Would a clogged one cause poor performance or pick-up?
  • coonhoundcoonhound Posts: 174
    The metal screen is a part of the mass air flow sensor. This is the item that if you over oil the K&N and get oil on the sensor you will have to replace it. I think they cost $300.00 or so. Incidentally, you can purchase an after market performance mass air flow sensor from (Granattelli) spelling??? motor sports.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    This mearly directs, straightens the air flow entering the TB...Many people have removed them for more air flow when changing to a wider opening High Velocity TB...
  • gary2gary2 Posts: 4
    Got in my '99 GS with 53K the other morning, hit the key, dash lit up but the starter would not turn over. No clicking, no nothing, just dead. After about 8 or 9 trys, I switched to my wife's key. Started right up after the 3rd or 4th try. I shut it down and restarted with my key. No problem and it has been ok since. This happened one other time about two yrs ago. Same deal only happened at a gas station after I shut it off to refuel. This is not a battery problem as I have accessories and lights. I stopped by the dealer and talked with the Serv Mgr who said it will be hard to find unless I bring it in when it fails...now how the hell am I supposed to do that when I'm sitting dead in my garage. Anyway, he mentioned the chip in the key or the ignition lock cylinder as possibilities. ANY THOUGHTS???
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,278
    I've had problems with dirt or lint on my key and the resistor on the Passkey II. You can clean the contact on the key with a dark brown pencil eraser. It's abrasive enough to remove dirt, goo, lint, corrosion.

    You have to wait 3 minutes, I believe, after a failure due to wrong resistor reading before trying again with another key. So be patient. That's probably the problem.

    Could be poor contacts or breaking wires inside the steering column. Early (93) Lesabres did that from the column going up and down a lot like my wife and I do getting in and out. If the column doesn't get moved as much, the wires don't break inside the insulation. But the SECURITY light came on in that case because the reading is not correct, but the car continued to drive and start okay. But dealer said it wouldn't b e long before the wire broke.
  • gary2gary2 Posts: 4
    Thanks for the tip imidazol97. It probably was 3 minutes time before the car actually started with the 2nd key.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    A wet or damp key may turn on Security Light and cause it to not start...
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    This from ZZPerformance - Free Modifications

    The stock Throttle Body can be restrictive even on a stock engine. The factory installs a screen in the inlet of the Throttle Body to straighten the air as it travels into the MAF sensor. This provides a smoother idle and more consistent fuel delivery. For Maximum performance this screen is disruption in the airflow that can be removed with little or *no adverse effects. On the flow bench we have realized a 10-15% increase in airflow by removing the screen.

    Begin by using two sharp objects like screws to pinch the retaining C clip together. Pull towards you for removal. Insert a small object like a screw or flat head screw driver into the edge of the screen and pry it out being careful not to damage it.

    * In 97 and 98 GM incorporated the MAF channel into the TB itself. On these cars we have noticed that some of them will idle rough without the screen in the throttle body. If you experience this, simply replace your screen.
  • todd2todd2 Posts: 1
    Please - can anyone tell me how to program the keyfob for an '03 Buick Regal LS?
    Thanks.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Should be in the manual...

    But...

    Programming Key-less Entry Transmitter

    1. Sit in driver's seat.
    2. Remove ignition key from ignition
    3. Close all doors
    4. Press and Hold the Door's Lock switch to the Unlock position.
    5. Insert and remove the ignition key twice (don't rotate the cylinder - leave in off)
    6. Insert the ignition key a third time, leaving it in the cylinder
    7. Release the Door's lock switch from the Unlock position
    Three fast chimes will indicate the system is entering programming mode
    8. On the keyless entry transmitter, press and hold both the Lock and Unlock buttons simultaneously.
    Two fast chimes will be heard to confirm programming of the keyless entry.
    You may have to hold both buttons for up to 12 seconds
    9. Repeat step 8 for each transmitter.
    10. Remove ignition key from cylinder.

    NOTE: That to enter programming mode, you hold the DOOR's unlock button - not the unlock button on the keyless remote.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,278
    My 03 Lesabre had to be programmer with a TechII device by the dealer... Cost was included in the price of the fob $35? Key itself was
    $60 or so and car had to be trained to recognize the key's radio device signature.

    Don't lose the key and keyfob to your car is my moral...

    But todd2 needs to contact a dealer if it doesn't say how in the manual because it probably is a dealer item.
  • serzserz Posts: 1
    Can anyone provide me some information that would show me how to change a RH side mirror assembly on a 2003 Buick Regal? The mirror assembly is powered but not heated and is non-foldable. Is it possible to just change the guts out on the assembly and still use the existing painted fairing?
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    A 2003...Not under warranty???...
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    Maybe "serz" broke it driving into or backing out of his/her garage. It happened to me 2 years ago. I broke the right mirror of my '98 Regal while backing out. Sometimes you just don't think of watching door clearances when you're in a hurry. It cost me about $200 to have it replaced.
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    When driving my wife's '00 Regal GSE, I noticed the outside temperature display showing that it was 35 degrees, instead of the actual 65 degrees. At least that's what it said on a bank sign we passed. It also felt like 65 outside. The result of the display showing 35 was that the HVAC started calling for heat. I pressed the OFF button so we wouldn't roast. However, about 10 minutes later, the HVAC display started rising and eventually showed the correct temperature. So I pressed the AUTO button. Lo and behold, cool air started coming out of the cabin ducts. I think the HVAC unit (or O/S air temperature thermocouple) could be failing, or else some other part is loose or broken. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Thanks.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    1. The outside temperature, as displayed, does not influence A/C. The automatic reads the temperature inside the cabin and adjusts A/C. Regal (and other cars with auto climate control) have another sensor, inside cabin.

    2. Regal is programmed to ignore what the outside temperature sensor shows, and to use the temperature just before the engine was switched off, if the car is parked for less than 3 hours. Otherwise it would read the heat of engine. It starts to use the sensor after something like 20 minutes or 20 miles driving, do not remember exactly. I believe, that it is described somewhere, maybe in the user manual.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,278
    The outside sensor seems to have some part in the output behavior of the HVAC in my LeSabre dual control auto system (similar to REgal's I'm sure). That's true in 98 and 03 models.

    There is also a sunload sensor on top of the dash along with sensors in the return air sampling duct to adjust what the system is doing. Our newer car's outside sensor stuck at 77 or some number like that one time and the outside temps were near 90. It seemed to require greater up and down adjustment on the request temp inside on the control to get the typical output that one day and evening. Next day everything was back to normal.

    I have not read about how long the system ignores the outside sensor if it's not logical in its reading.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Is on dash to right of steering column...
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,278
    I was referring to the sensor on top of the dash that measures how much sun is shining in heating up the top of the passenger cabin. My 98 has on on the right and one on the left; the newer car has one in the middle. That sensor adapts the bilevel for cooler air at the top and warmer air at the heater on the floor for cold weather.

    The holes in the front of the dash suck in air from the compartment and mix with some air coming out of the duct and give a temperature sensor a reading of what the system is currently putting out.

    When I get some time, I'm going to read the service manual and see how much they explain the logic in the auto system...
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