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Buick Regal

18687899192111

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  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    2000 Regal GS, almost 38k miles. The sunroof failed to close yesterday. No unusual sound, no smoke, opened fine, just does not close five minutes later.

    About 40 minutes later the Anti-Lock, Trac Off, and Service Vehicle Soon light up. All three lights appeared simultaneously.

    It happened Saturday late evening. Returned home only about 9:30pm, too late to do anything. This morning I took it to Firestone, the only shop I know which is working Sundays. However, as it turned to be, they are doing only oil change etc., the technicians competent to do diagnostics will be at work Monday.

    I took the car home till Monday. Will decide, either to took it to Firestone, or to my Chevrolet dealer.

    Strange thing: the anti-lick, trac off, and service vehicle lights appeared again when I drove to Firestone. However, they did not light when driving back to home.

    The following may be relevant:

    I think that I hear a very slight howling sound from the front when moving very slow, 5 mph or so. Both when braking and when accelerating. I noticed it about 3 weeks ago. However, I did not drive the car for a month before noticing the sound. My wife who is driving it every day did not hear anything unusual.

    The sunroof failed about 70 miles from home, and we drove with open roof. Switched off the A/C at first, but the windshield fogged. We had to blow hot air.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    Sorry, this is anti-lock light, not anti-lick. Typo and did not check spelling, except automatically.

    Just in case, the fuses for sunroof and ABS are fine. There is no fuse in the "Low Blower" slot. I am sure, from the very beginning, and, any case, this is irrelevant to the current problem.
  • mrrogersmrrogers Posts: 391
    My wife and I have a 98 Regal LS with 99K miles. Several years ago the anti-lock, trac off, and service vehicle soon lights came on. When re-starting the car, the lights would stay off for a few miles, and then come back on. It turned out to be a loose ABS ground wire on the right front brake assembly. We don't have a sunroof, so I don't have any advice about that.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,537
    Have you jacked up the car and removed the front wheel where the noise may have coming from to look for an antilock sensor that may be rubbing? Of loose?
  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    My sunroof failed to close twice on me. I ended up having a whole new sunroof opening system put into the car. I had the extended warranty so it was covered. I do not open the sunroof fully, I just use the vent feature. That way if it does not close the interior wont get too wet if it rains. I have 99 Regal GSE. This problem happened back at 55K, car now has 92K
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    2 mrrogers, imidazol97 and bporter1:

    Thank you!

    It would be unusual for two systems to break in one trip, some 30-40 miles apart, after driving 38,000 miles without problems. I tried to understand the common cause. However, could not imagine any relation between sunroof and ABS, except, probably, electrical.

    The sound from the front is resembling what I heard for couple of weeks before alternator died on my other car, Chevy Malibu. So the first idea was that it is dying, and the voltage is low enough already for some systems to fail. I checked the battery. Turned to be I was wrong: it is charged to 12.6 volts, i.e. well enough. Did not check the voltage with working engine, however.

    I also seldom open the sunroof, and usually only raise the back when I am doing it. Almost never retract it into the roof. However, the car was parked on open place for a whole day, my son complained, and I tried to vent out the hot air fast...

    No, I did not jack up the car. I hope that mechanics will find the cause tomorrow. Oh, sorry, it is already today...
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    Drove the car to my Chevy dealership yesterday morning. They found what is with sunroof very fast. It turned to be the sunroof switch failed. They ordered new switch, and today received it and installed. Could not reproduce the problem with ABS, traction control and "service vehicle soon". I drove to dealership with the three lights on; ought to demonstrate it before switching ignition off.

    Total $255 including taxes. Much better than to what I expect, or rather was afraid. The switch itself costs only $26, but replacing it requires a lot of work. $110 labor, $20 waste fee, and $85 diagnostics for ABS/Traction control.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,537
    What is a waste fee for?

    My dealer has charged small amounts for materials and I have a problem with that. That's what their shop rate is to cover. My dentist doesn't charge for cleaning compound or tissues.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    It is named "Waste disposal charge". In other shops the same is named "fee".

    To my understanding, the federal and state governments mandate rather expensive and complicated procedures for disposal of waste. I believe that it is just to pass the costs on consumers.

    Basically, the fee do not depends or almost do not depends on amount of waste. Today it was $20 for a disposing of a small electrical switch. However, disposing of four tires costs roughly the same, if I remember it right. In other words, this really works as fee, surcharge, or, if you want, a form of tax.

    I think that the subject is somewhat off-topic for this thread.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,537
    " think that the subject is somewhat off-topic for this thread"

    Since it was brought up in a billing, wasn't it relevant question...
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    I need someone's opinion on this car for sale:

    http://edmunds.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?rdpage=thumb&car_id- - - =168209951&dealer_id=&car_year=1986&make=BUICK&di- - - stance=25&max_price=&model=GRNAT&end_year=1987&ad- - - vcd_on=n&min_price=&address=60133&search_type=used&am- p;am- p;am- p;advanced=n&start_year=1984&color=&cardist=25

    Is the asking price too good to be true? I thought Grand Nationals were worth $20K-$25K. The pictures sure look nice. I haven't called the owner YET. I'd appreciate any thoughts. Thanks.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You might want to drop by our Real-World Trade-In Values discussion and ask there also ... good luck!
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Mine also (newly acquied 2000 GS with 27,000 miles) had a temp reading of 65 when it was 90 outside. Actually dropped after driving a while, started at 85 and dropped as one drive along. Dealer installed new control unit (digital diplay piece) and said fixed, I looked, read 65 so they took it back in. Turned out to be a short in the wiring harness causing the reading to be low. Working fine now. Took 203 hours to locate and repair. Fortunately a certified car and fixed under the 3000 mile warranty
  • kmagkmag Posts: 98
    I have an opportunity to acquire a 99 Regal LS and this is a concern since I have a 30 mile one-way commute.

    I saw a post a few pages back that reported 29MPG on a GS. Is this typical for the LS also or would it get a little better since it is not supercharged?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,537
    supercharger, 3800 engine should get 30 on smooth highway driving. Stop and go probably down to 22. If you hotrod- go lower. But that engine is great when driven moderately.
  • Low 20's in traffic; mid twenties in short suburban hops; 30+ in steady highway work. Always plenty of power on tap, too. Mine uses less gas than my neighbor's Focus 4 cyl.! You're gonna love it!
  • The external temp reading in my '01 Regal has been a constant 50 degrees regardless of the weather ever since installation of a new battery. Is there a fix for this? A service rep at my dealer said there was no reset. Is it really true that the external temp is functional only until you need a new battery? I have tried disconnecting then reconnecting the battery cables, but no luck.
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    I replaced the battery in my '98 Regal GS last April. Before replacing the battery, and ever since then, the external temp display has always shown the correct reading. There could be a seperate fuse (aside from the main fuse for the HVAC) for the external temp probe. I would suggest checking the main fuse compartment (black box) under the hood. I would also check the secondary fuse compartment located next to the passenger-side door. I hope this helps!
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    I noticed that a guy at a recent car meet had drilled ten 3/8" holes on top of the air box in his '98 GTP. He claims he immediately noticed an improvement in pick-up. Has anyone else done this? I'm also thinking of doing it to my '98 Regal GS, but I'm wondering if it will really improve pick-up. The holes are located along the top front of the air box. We both installed a K & N filter, so maybe the added air flow through the filter demands more access of air for better performance.
  • jbmjbm Posts: 29
    Hi Jpstax, I have a 2002 Regal GS so I'd like to know, if you do that mod, what would happen. I remember a 'gearhead' recommending that I do that (and installing a K&N) to my 94 SHO about 10 years ago, and I did, except the holes were drilled on the bottom of the airbox, not the top. I don't remember any significant change in pickup, at least no that I would notice. I've heard that a K&N, even with drilled holes in the airbox, is not enough, that one would need a whole new air intake system to gain any significant horsepower. would like to hear others' opinions.
  • I looked up the fuse info in the owners manual, but found nothing to indicate a separate fused for the external temp. So, the problem remains. Anyway, thanks for the idea. It was a good one!
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    Sorry my idea didn't help. My only other suggestion would be to replace the external temp probe. I'm not sure where it's located (maybe under the hood, or possibly under the trunk). See if you can find a copy of the 2001 Chilton's Auto manual at your public library. It should show the location of the probe, and be you'll able to install a new one yourself (instead of the dealer).
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    Hello back jbm. If your car is still under warranty, I'd wait until it's expired before doing the mod. Certain dealerships are very touchy about engine mods. They might say the added air flow from the holes might somehow cause engine damage, especially a motor with a S/C. My dealer is dead set against using a smaller pulley to gain hp. If I decide to drill holes, I'll let you know.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,537
    The temp probe on my LeSabres has been on the vertical piece of metal that goes up to the hood latch area in front of the air conditioning condenser.

    I haven't read the troubleshooting method in my LeSabre service manuals but... I'd locate the sensor (it's about the size of a little finger from the joint to the end, and pull the wire from it. Them turn on the air conditioning. See what the reading is for external without the connection. It's possible you might even put a resistor across the wire's end to simulate a reding. Someone else may know if that would work...
    If pulling the wire has no effect, either the sensor's bad or the wiring to it is broken in some way. If you are able to cross it with a paper clip and get a different reading, then you know the wiring to the sensor is good and the sensor is probably the culprit.

    When I get time, I'll read up on this in my service manual.
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    Thank you for taking the time to reply to my husband's query about the problem with my car. However, I have two further questions. At the time of the problem, as stated in the original post "...the outside temperature display (showed) that it was 35 degrees, instead of the actual 65 ...". This could not have been (as stated in your reply) "the temperature just before the engine was switched off, if the car is parked for less than 3 hours". The stated problem occured on Aug 24, 2004. The local temperature has not been 35 degrees for many months! So why the 35 degree reading, and why was heat pouring out when the climate control was set to 60 degrees? Thanks.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    If you want better performance...You should install an aftermarket Cold Air Box [CAI]...Check all the retailers, 3800performance, ZZperformance, PFYC...Or build one of your own...Or for less money, just gut the inside of the existing airbox...Cut 'everything inside' out, just leaving the K&N filter...Note the 97.5 & 98's have a different airbox than the 99+ because of the overflow tank placement...99+ far better design...Much more air flow...

    Drilling air holes only lets in Hot air from engine which is bad...
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    I decided take your advice and gut the air box, leaving only the K&N filter. I first removed the short pleated hose from the air box sleeve. It's the one that connects the throttle body to the air box. I then removed the K&N filter, but lo and behold, I found a 2" high square metal-jacketed instrument inside the air box, which was attached to the bottom. It appears to be some kind of electrical device, because it has several wires running down to a harness below. Do you know what it's used for? Are you saying it can be removed? Or is it some sort of sensor that shouldn't be removed? I do know it's not the MAF sensor. The MAF is attached to the short pleated hose.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    That's the PCM...The computer that runs everything in the car...If you want to go faaster and quicker...There are companies that will sell you a reprogrammed PCM the changes shift points...Adds fuel pressure...and takes off the 108 mph fuel shutoff...

    PS...The MAF is on the Throttle Body...The IAT sensor is on the F-duct...
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    Thanks. Why the hell would Buick engineers install the PCM inside the air box, where it's clearly an air flow obstruction? Or does the air box afford it some protection? I certainly don't want to remove and relocate it somewhere else in the engine compartment.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Several aftermarket CAI's [Cold Air Induction Systems] have the PCM located in the airbox... http://easyperformance.com/CAI/CAI_Filter.htm Doesn't really effect airflow...

    Also cooler in there than in engine compartment...
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