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Buick Regal

19394969899111

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  • bigunit67bigunit67 Posts: 62
    Hey,

    I was wondering what your results were with the upgrades so far? Have you had your HP/TQ checked to see what actual increases you're having? Any tranny problems with the increased power that you can tell?

    I have a 98 regal GS myself. However, I believe I have the very early signs of tranny issues (just from wear and tear). It's not shifting as cleanly between 2/3 and 3/4 as it once did. I've kept it serviced so unless they slipped some goose grease in there w/o me knowing it I suppose it's a natural decay. If I did any upgrades, it'd be AFTER a tranny redo, should my car and I keep up relations that long.

    On a diff subject...Did anyone else read about GM's reworking of the injector scheme on the 3.6? They are talking that it could generate an addl 50 HP, making for slightly over 300 if the system they're currently testing works (no word on how it might affect torque). Now that they're shoe-horning 5.3L V-8's that make 303 HP into Grand Prix's and (soon) Impalas and Monte Carlo's, that should make for interesting marketing problems if they allow the full 50 HP gain across the product board (taking bets there...)
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    1. SC oil costs something like $7 or $8 per small bottle at GM dealerships. There are Pontiac, Buick, and Chevrolet cars with SC, and these dealership usually carry the oil. Normal consumption is zero to one bottle per 30,000 miles, and it takes two bottles to replace all the oil in SC.

    At these prices, probably, it does not make much sense to use cheaper oil. Risk is substantial, while payoff is minimal. However, some people use synthetic 5W-30. Not every oil that is called "synthetic", but really synthetic, like Mobil 1. They save $5 every 30,000 miles.

    Run to your dealer and complain about the problem. He will add the oil for free, because you just bought the car and because it is certified. More important, this will leave a paper trail in case your SC fails. I understand that the certified car is covered by warranty? Dealer's or GM?

    Personally, I would replace the oil. However, this is not standard procedure. To remove old oil, you need to use syringe or something of this kind. SC holds 2 bottles.

    2. Series II 3.8 SC requires premium gas. Regular can be used in emergency, but it does not pay. Engine computer will sense knocks and will adjust advance angle accordingly. The engine will loses power and, to my understanding, consumes more gas.
  • tlereesetlereese Posts: 1
    It has been some time since you posted your "bug" issue. But the same thing was happening to my 2001 Regal LS. I had the same thing happening and everyone kept telling me it was either a short in the wires or issue with computer, but couldn't figure it out. Finally I had someone figure out what it was - it was the ABS sensor in the wheel hub/boot. I had that replaced and no more issues.

    I hope this help if you haven't figured it out by now. :)
  • bigfred1bigfred1 Posts: 3
    Where exactly is the low port on my 99 Buick LSE. I have the 3.8 liter V6 and I believe it is right next to the air filter box and underneath the engine support bar but I am not sure. I need to recharge my air because it is not cold anymore. Can anyone help me out

    Thanks
    BigFred
  • bigfred1bigfred1 Posts: 3
    I had a problem kind of similar to yours. My car would start and run for awhile then just die and it died on me at the intersection that is really busy by my house in the turning lane. I turned her over and put my foot on the gas and she would stay started until I took it off the gas and she would die. She worked the next day and went out of state and she drove fine and came home and she died on me at the bar
    and I had her towed over to the dealer. The mass air sensor was bad. Costed over $360 dollars to fix and I could of did it myself for a lot cheaper but I had no clue what was wrong. Now, I know the signs of a bad mass air sensor.
  • bigfred1bigfred1 Posts: 3
    My 99 LSE has a badge right next to the headlight switch that says Grand Touring Package :)
  • Hi all, I am 26 and I have owned my 00 Regal LS for 3 years. First of all I believe this is the most reliable and comfortable car, and the looks are just awesome. I have owned many cars and now I own 4, my Regal, a 94 Camaro, a 72 Chevelle and a 74 Delta 88, all GM's.

    Well, lately I've had the LOW TIRE indicator on, I reset it, check the tire pressure and still comes on. Does this have to do with something wrong on the suspension?

    Also, is there a noticeable difference between the concert sound II and the monsoon? Are the radios specs different? I know the speakers have to be different to be so expensive. I want to change my current system for a monsoon if there is a noticeable difference, or at least the speakers...any thoughts?

    Thanx a lot!
    Edna :P
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    Monsoon have 8 speakers, amplifier in the trunk and a small swiveling antenna rod attached to / through the rear window. The head unit displays "Monsoon".

    Concert II have 6 speakers. Antenna is incorporated into rear window itself, in the glass or glued to the glass from inside, like heating wire.

    We have two Regals in family, a 2004 with Monsoon, and a 2000 with Concert II. I would say that for my taste the sound is a bit better with the older car. With Monsoon it is a bit less rich. However, the cars have different head unit, and, probably, this is the reason of the difference. GM "decontent" final years car models.

    Concerning tire indicator: are you sure that the pressure is even across all 4 tires, and that you reset the indicator? The reset button is in the fuse panel, under the small door on the passenger-side edge of dashboard.

    In my experience, the indicator really helps when there is a slow leak in a tire. The indicator uses ABS sensors, and if indicator is wrong, it can be that there will be problem with ABS and traction control. However, ABS checks itself automatically every time when you start the car. This is why I guess that there is a problem with tire inflation, not with indicator.
  • Thanks for the info. I checked the pressure on all tires and reset the indicator and after a day or two it comes back on. My next guess was that there is a leak like you say, but I cannot tell since I get even pressures on all 4 tires.

    Also thanks for the info on the Monsoon, I really wanted to know if there was a real difference, anyways the sound system in my car sounds really nice. :)
  • 38man38man Posts: 1
    I am new here but i have 2001 GS and was wanting to get rid of the limiter. Has any one changed the pcm I do not care about warranty the motor fells like it has more does any one know?
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You might also want to stop by our Speed Shop: Tuning & Modification board and ask about that - welcome and good luck.
  • brian22brian22 Posts: 2
    Have you had the Starter checked? My mechanic told me that you can tap the starter on the side with a hammer a few times to loosen it if that is the problem.
  • brian22brian22 Posts: 2
    I recently bought a 1990 Buick Regal GS. It has two 10 amp fuses for the fuel injection system and one of them has to be pulled out for the car to run. I took it to a mechanic who installed a new fuel pump, new computer and checked all the fuel lines but it came down to the fuel injection. When the car is running with only one fuse it has very little power, once the second fuse is put it the car slowly dies because the fuel injectors shut off. Neither of us have a clue as to how this happened or where the problem could be. Anyone have any ideas?
  • My son has a 94 Buick Regal with a 3.8 litre engine.
    Recently, the car stopped running (while on the road). He had it towed to work. When he tried again, it started and ran for a day. Then it quit again.
    Troubleshooting revealed that there was no spark. He replaced the crank sensor and ignition module, but this didn't fix the problem. He suspects that there might be a problem with the ignition key chip/computer, but he's not sure how to check this, and doesn't want to throw any more parts at the problem. He tried reading the trouble code using the "check engine" light, but no trouble codes flashed (perhaps he's not initiating the sequence properly - any help here?).
    Two questions:
    1. Does anyone have any ideas/experience with this kind of problem?
    2. If the key chip circuit fails, will it prevent the engine from cranking, or just from starting?
    Any ideas/suggestions would be welcome.
    Thank you.
  • I have a 2001 Buick Regal LS. The alarm remote (fob) plastic broke at the hole for placing a ring to connect it to your key ring. I thought that I could purchase just the plastic housing and place the electronics part in the new plastic housing. I am unable to find the plastic part so I called the Buick dealer. They want $112.00 for the remote plus $40.00 to program it. Does anyone have suggestions? $152 .00 seems like a bunch to pay for a remote. Is it possible to program the remote yourself without depending on the Buick dealer?

    Thanks for your help.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,072
    The remotes are available on the internet. I don't have a link, but people have posted links in some of these GM discussions. I'll see if I have a bookmark.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    If you want a new PCM...Here are 2 vendors...Intense sells theirs and ZZPerformance sells one from DHP...and they both do 'way' more than just take away the limiter...

    http://www.intense-racing.com/

    http://www.zzperformance.com/
  • Have you ever found out the problem to the noise??? I have the exact same thing happen when i drive slow and have my window down i can hear this clinking noise from the right front someplace.
  • tonyf2tonyf2 Posts: 24
    I have a '98 and a '01 Buick Regal ls. I am experencing a problem with the 'Service Engine Soon' light on my '01 Regal. It has 47k miles, passed NJ inspection about 1 yr ago. The manual which comes in the glove compartment says to open the gas cap if light comes on. I've done this, after a day or so it went out. I took a trip just recently and the light came on again and will not go off. Any suggestions.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,072
    Since the light went off after a day of start stop driving, it may be the gas cap. Check the rubber ring around the top that seals inside the opening of the metal tank filler. If it's torn, time for a new cap (or some silicon caulk). If it's dry, put some vaseline on it to help it seal better. Check the area of the metal filler where the cap seal goes. If it's got a layer of sediment on it from something, rub it off with an oiled shop cloth to smooth the surface to help the seal.

    Had trouble with 98 3800 in LeSabre. Read the service manual I bought to see how it works. When you restart a luke warm engine, it does a check to see if it can keep a vacuum for a certain length of time to show that there is no air leak in the tank system. It does not do the test on a cold start nor a hot start. Only when the water temp is between a couple of lukewarm temperatures. Sure enough, when I drove my car to get coffee, turned it off for a few minutes, then got back in, it did the test and the light went off. If you don't do a luke warm start, it may take a few days before it does the vacuum check.
  • bjbaker82bjbaker82 Posts: 4
    It's a sharp plasticky rattle, almost sounds like something's hitting the cone of the speaker. I can tell the speaker isn't blown, there's just something loose back there. There's a little bit of rattle when my car drives over sharp bumps, or even a slightly bumpy road, but when I turn the CD/radio on, it amplifies by like 100x. The warranty ran out a long time ago, so right now I'm considering removing the back seat and rear deck as required to get at the damn speaker to see what's wrong.
  • bjbaker82bjbaker82 Posts: 4
    eh, scratch that. I got the balls to take out my rear seat and deck and the 6x9 is fried, unless I'm totally missing something. Bass hits at odd times, etc. Wondering if there's any good sites on the inet that sell OEM speakers?
  • jay99jay99 Posts: 9
    So how hard was it to take the seat out? Any tricks to it? My speakers have been blown for a while, but I didn't know how to replace them myself and didn't want to pay someone to do it. I have a 99 GS so I imagine they are the same...
  • bjbaker82bjbaker82 Posts: 4
    Not very difficult, just time consuming and a huge pain in the [non-permissible content removed]. You'll need a ratchet, some metric sockets, and some pliers to pull those damn plastic peg-thingies out (that you'll need to buy more of since you wreck them when you remove them). The bottom part of the seat has some, uh, I don't even know what to call them with some tabs coming out right under the seat and you need to release them so the seat will just come out. Then removing the backrest will be pretty straightforward, except there's some metal hooks hooking it into the "bulkhead" or whatever you call it. Just lift and pull it out. The rear deck is anchored by some of those plastic screw-looking thingies (and some other stuff that I can't find) so I just took a pair of angled needle-nose pliers and ripped them out, so I dunno what you wanna do. Now, what I can't figure out is how to get the rear deck out. What was GM thinking when they designed this? Anyway, I isolated the sound and the speaker's not blown, just a cracked cone. Gotta figure out how to get the rear deck out...
  • tonyf2tonyf2 Posts: 24
    I followed your instructions to clean the metal area where the cap seals, I also clean the rubber ring on the gas cap and put a little vasaline on it. After one day the light went off. Thanks for your help.
  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    I am having the same problem with my left rear speaker. A plasticky rattle on any kind of low bass tones. Very annoying. But I'll be damned if I'm taking the back seat out myself. I'll just live with it, or go to a good car stereo shop and have them replace both speakers.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Many months back I wrote of suspicions to the water pump doing a marginal job. Result was that stopped in traffic the guage would creep up toward the very warm. I had eliminated most everything else. I purchased a new pump and compared the impeller. The face of it is machined and it appears the old pump could have had as much as 1/16 inch more machined from it. Not much, but enough to allow excessive leakage past the impeller. I'll post back later with actual results, but it is interesting that the tolerance would be so large.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    All right, got it back together. Short quick run to warm up and purge the system. Less than half the run I used to warm and circulate the water as a final rinse w/o the thermastat. It barely budged off cold then. Now it is over half way up. Quick check of my work upon which I discover the fans aren't running. Trouble shot to the temp sensor. Someone aped it at some point in the past. The sensor connector was split in half and came out with the plug. Dirty crack lines show it was this way for a long time. Corrosion around the pins and resistance reading way to high. To the parts house this morning and hopefully all is well so I can move on to Aurora and Sable. Trouble in batches.
  • mrmemrme Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 Buick Regal with a 3.8 V6 with 75,000 miles. I average about 24 mpg on the highway/city combined. Is there any way to improve the gas mileage, or is this normal. I did get about 27 mpg, but it has since dropped. I have changed the plugs, pcv value, and air filter. Any ideas?
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