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Chrysler Minivan Transmission Problems

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  • shay2shay2 Posts: 9
    My grand caravan has 160K. Just this week will not accelerate when push on the pedal. Occasionally will go if wait a few seconds after you accelerate. Also problem in reverse. I assume the transmission is gone. There is a bump feeling when it finally moves. What would a new transmission cost, or a rebuilt one? The car is only worth about $1500 or less so I am not sure if it is even worth fixing. It is primarily my 17 year old daughter's bumper car, if you know what I mean.
    Thanks for any help
  • erau1990erau1990 Posts: 1
    I have 2007 T&C with same issue. It turns out that it is the power steering pump and reservoir. Mine would start whining after 5-10 mins at highway speed and stop whining after its cools off for 15 mins or so. Reservoir was changed as a precaution because of a filter screen in it.
  • dmor319dmor319 Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 dodge caravan with 3.0 litre engine. My question is will a 3.7 engine and transmission fit?
  • Probly not. That engine not design to be in van.
    the 3.0,3.3 and 3.8 are the ones that go in there but hey if you can manufacture and weld mounts , axles and exhaust then sure it will fit lol
  • dmor319dmor319 Posts: 2
    Thanks for your information.It was worth a try. :(
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    A 3.7 liter engine? Never heard of one, which company makes it?
  • bs12bs12 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Chrysler Voyager with 40,000 miles. I recently had the transmission serviced they said it was fine. Shortly thereafter, I had to have a sensor replaced on the top of the transmission. The past few days I have noticed a clicking sound when I put it in reverse. It does not hesitate, there are no shifting problems. Is this just a noise? My fuel pump gets very noisy when the weather gets hot.
  • bobevansbobevans Posts: 1
    I am having the same whinning problem with my 96 town and country how long did you drive with the whinning noise and how was it shifting.
  • Noticed they have a cap instead of a dipstick on the 2008 town and country. From other posts looks like there's a Oil Dipstick you can get

    http://www.toolsource.com/dipstick-nag1-transmission-p-100198.html

    but reads that it's for the 3.5l engine. Does anyone know if this is the best way to check the trans fluid, and will this one work? Anyone know a better way, they want 72 bucks for the thing.

    It's under warranty, thinking I should leave it alone....
  • glxy500glxy500 Posts: 1
    97 Caravan. Driving normally, just stopped pulling. Fluid ok, no leaks. Crank back up and will not engage reverse, will only engage drive. Can only drive 8 mph. 9 will disengage. Unplugged battery all night, plus letting it cool. No difference. I am thinking electrical problem, just would like to know where to start.
  • leadfoot69leadfoot69 Posts: 31
    What motor and trans is in it.
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    Depending on what state you're in and what you can get away with regarding emissions and inspections, you could always drop a VW TDI diesel in there. The 3.0 is a good motor. All the faults with it (valve guides, oil burning, oil leakage, timing belt, water pump) can be fixed easily. A 3.0 engine can be had used in most parts of the country from a junkyard with a 30 to 90 day warranty for less than $500. Figure another $700-$1000 labor to install. Or just fix the one you've got.

    If you'd rather change engines, get the 3.8, it's got a ton of torque and is still good on mileage. In a short wheelbase (non-Grand) van it would be fun to drive. Try to get one from the same year van if you can. Town & Country vans often had the 3.8 so start looking for those.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    I guess this would be the engine found in the Jeep Liberty, Dodge Dakota, and Dodge Nitro. Otherwise, I wouldn't know either.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Ahhh, that 3.7 liter motor. As far as I know, there is virtually no way of fitting a 3.7 (designed for a longitudinal installation) into a minivan (which has engines mounted transversely).
  • dvndvn Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 dodge caravan 4 cylinder 3 speed tranny. When you put it in gear you can here like a whirling noise then it goes in gear. It also does this when you take off in first and second not in third or reverse. It reminds me off spider gears in a rear wheel drive vehicle. I checked pan and nothing unusual just normal shavings. Wondering if could be fixed or is it to late. Did not drive it very far when it started this just to house and parked it.
  • dvndvn Posts: 3
    I have a 92 chrysler new yorker fifth avenue with a 3.8 motor 604 overdrive tranny. I am on my 3rd or 4th tranny i lost count. Long story on first few just dont ever let someone flush one. Not my choice sent wife and they talked her into flush instead of servicing. But anyway this one keeps going into limp mode but not all the time just sometimes but still annoying. Of course its been to 2 shops I have replace relays, silonoid pack, tranny computer, fluid filter, and whatever else soft codes told me. Know after talking to a few more people and what I've read on here I'm chasing wires looking for a raw wire. My wifes uncle has been telling me it sounds like ground problems to him since the beginning. Hence the wire chasing. I read on here once about a ground strap problem and how to run new ones but can't remember what it said or where the original strap is. If anyone can tell me how to run the new ones and where the old one is. Would be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone can think of something i haven't covered please tell me I would like to get this car fixed it has been a headache since the trouble started and now i have more money in it than what i paid for it. still a nice car only has 14x,xxx miles on it. Thanks in advance.
  • have a 2000 Grand Caravan. The blower quit working all together. Replaced resistor in the firewall last month. Fuse good, but no power to the fan control. Don't know how to test the relay. There is power to two points at the relay terminal. After that I'm lost. Any help would be appreciated :(
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,686
    Have you checked it to ensure it has the proper amount of fluid? If it is low, it will take a few seconds to pressurize. The transmission works via hydraulic pressure so you have to make sure the fluid is topped off.
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • dvndvn Posts: 3
    Yeh i changed the fluid with the right stuff and didn't help. I've decided to change the transmission and stuck on trying to get the ball joint and tie rod off.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,686
    Yeah, those pressed joints can be a real PITA. A separating fork is extremely useful (and inexpensive!) for this task, but it typically destroys the boot. If you want to keep the joints or the boot is not replaceable, this is not the method to use. Before buying a fork, my methodology for removing them was to loosen the nut until it is approximately even with the bolt (maybe just *slightly* further off the bolt than perfectly flush) in order to protect the threads, then impact it with a 2# sledge until it releases. For particularly stubborn ball joints, placing stout pressure on the joint by using a pry bar between the A-arm and steering knuckle while impacting the bolt with the sledge usually does the trick. If that step is necessary, a second set of hands is extremely useful! ;)
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • my 1997 dodge grand carvan needs a transmission does any one have a used or good deal on one located in central ca thanks
  • sbigrassbigras Posts: 2
    We've been having a real nightmare with our 2004 Grand Caravan. The transmission keeps going into limp mode.

    We've been back to the dealer 6 times in the last three months. The last few visits every few days. Last night I managed to drive it about 5km from the dealership before it acted up again.

    Once reset, the van drives fine for a while and then progressively drives worse and worse. Shifts get rougher and rougher and the van seems to bull after around 70kph. It's almost like being hit by a strong gust of wind while driving on the highway only over and over every few seconds. Shortly after this starts, the van goes into limp mode.

    The dealer has replaced the Selenoid pack and the valve housing twice. They have also checked the wiring and replaced the PCM and its wiring harness. All to no avail.

    They're now dismantling the transmission to check out its inner workings.

    Any ideas on what all this might be caused by?
  • Your transmission has a magnetic filter on the drivers side. The dealer is just taking the filter out. Cleaning off the metal shavings and giving you back the van . You have so much metal in the oil it is going into safety limp mode . Aamco did my tranny for 2200.00 and financed it 147.00 a month no interest if you pay in full in six months The dealership is wasting your time and money
    The
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    edited July 2010
    sonofadocker, I assume your post is tongue-in-cheek as there is zero evidence of anything even remotely resembling what you wrote.

    As for sbigras, I might be inclined to find a different service center as yours seems pretty incompetent. Were it that I was working on your van I'd start by looking at the wiring harnesses and connection points, I suspect an electronic short. Long story short, if your transmission operates normally, even for a short period of time, then there's a pretty good bet the mechanical portion of your tranny is still serviceable.

    Other common problem areas include (but are not limited to) the following items:

    -- Use of the incorrect ATF, these transmissions absolutely-positively REQUIRE Chrysler's MOPAR ATF+4 (i.e. not Lucas, not Amsoil, not Dextron, not Mercon, and no "Universal" ATFs), and only ATF+4. If you suspect your service center has been using the incorrect fluid, fire them immediately and find someone that knows what they're doing.

    -- Plugged or damaged cooling lines/external transmission cooler.

    FWIW #1, if I recall correctly, the pan magnet is on the passenger side if you feel inclined to pull the pan, change the filter and freshen the fluid yourself.

    FWIW #2, stay away from Aamco, they're an obscene rip-off when it comes to these transmissions; ninety-nine times out of one-hundred they’ll say, "Yup, you need an new transmission..." without even testing it or finding out what is actually wrong with the unit in question.

    Keep us posted.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • badtrannybadtranny Posts: 33
    Had this problem years ago. Fault code 7055, and 7000? (general tranny computer malfunction.)

    I think I know where the solenoid pack is located on the car, right front bottom. I can't see if from the top, and have been too hot and lazy to check it from the bottom.

    Some websites are pointing to the speed sensors. I doubt that they are bad, but what is the rational for suggesting it? Just because they are cheaper than the solenoid block that is related to the fault code??

    Who has Chrysler ATF 4 cheap? I figure I will replace the fluid and filter while I am at it,,, or perhaps when I drop the pan I will find something(s) that might indicate it is too late.

    I heard a clunk in the tranny while pulling away from a curb last week. Then the check engine lite came on and I am stuck in second. Check the error codes and saw the 7055. The tranny was rebuilt 100k ago and has been solid until last week. I sometimes pack more crap in the van than I need too, so I might be at fault too.

    Does anybody have any links to pictures, diagrams, or problem flow charts online?

    Regards, and thanks,

    Badtranny 2010
  • I own a 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 that keeps going into what I believe is "Limp Mode". The wierd thing is, during the cool weather I do not have this trouble. On a hot day, after a long drive it goes into limp mode. I can pull over, turn it off, then back on and go. When I slow down it will go back into the limp mode.
    I took my van to a transmission shop, they said it was sending out codes that it was overheating. They also showed me my transmission pan with much metal and told me it was time to rebuild it.(with 130,000 miles I thought this sounded right) So we did and it just so happened that the weather cooled off. I went through fall, winter and spring without a hitch. Summer came and I had to go back to the shop. It was sending the same codes. So they tried to put something in learnig mode but that didn't work. Then they replaced the solenoid, it continues to go into limp mode.
    I don't know what to do, this is just a guessing game :confuse:
    Has anyone out there had this exact trouble?

    also my engine light comes on after it goes into limp mode, I don't think it did that before the rebuild. Aftr sitting overnight, the next day it is usually gone. Then the whole senario starts over.
  • houndog101houndog101 Posts: 10
    FWIW #2, stay away from Aamco, they're an obscene rip-off when it comes to these transmissions; ninety-nine times out of one-hundred they’ll say, "Yup, you need an new transmission..." without even testing it or finding out what is actually wrong with the unit in question.

    You can't make a statement like this unless you've been to every AAmco in the country.. My nephew runs 2 of them and I'll put thier work up against anything you do, anytime ,any day..
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Sorry Houndog, I've been to enough AAmco's to have experience the sham business model their name is built upon. The thing is, I haven't been able to decide whether their service centers are deliberately staffed by folks whom are grossly incompetent or whether they hire folks that willfully mislead customers as a means of extortion. Either way, I hold them in even lower esteem than Jiffy Boob (if that's possible). Are there a few out there that are staffed by competent and ethical individuals? Probably; but that doesn't change my recommendation, "Avoid Aamco at all cost."
  • leadfoot69leadfoot69 Posts: 31
    Make sure yours trans cooler is flowing OK not plugged up or kinked hoses..
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