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Chrysler Minivan Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • ugly_guyugly_guy Posts: 1
    Replaced the Speed Idle control (Air Throttle Control) which may cost you $66.00 for original part, don't try third party part because I have replaced one and it failed after 3 months, also remember to run the van at speed 40 MPH for a while to let ECM save data. My van is Sport Caravan 1997 3.3 Engine 160K miles, it take a while for me to figure out this problem. Good luck
  • tbl01tbl01 Posts: 1
    had the same problem with one my son bought from a shyster. It was in limp mode, second gear really. Ran a new ground to the transmission control module and replaced the input and out sensors in the transmission, each about $40. Had transmission power flushed, lots of crap in it. tip off was that speedometer wouldn't work either. After sensor replacemnt all was well. Well worth trying, they simply unsrew and screw back in.
  • dano853dano853 Posts: 17
    I dont even have the van anymore but I'll pass this on in hopes it saves someone a huge chunk of $$$CASH$$$. After driving myself to distraction with the van always locking into 2nd gear I broke down and reluctantly took it to AAMCO. The tech connected his hand held diagmostic and we took a spin around the mall parking lot. He said it was the speed sensor. "Look we are going 25 and it says we are going 0 miles per hour."
    Me: "But what if its not the Speed sensor?" (I'd heard that line before)
    Him: "It IS. 100% garantee". He gave me a good price and told me it could be the speed sensor OR its connector plug. Either way less then $200. I scheduled the repair.

    I was thrilled..... but being a cheap and resourceful guy When I got home I managed to get an engine diagram showing the location of the sensor. I found it unplugged it and scrubbed the plug and sensor contacts with GOOP and a toothbrush. After rinsing & drying everything thoroughly, I waited and then connected it back up and.....
    VOILA!!!
    I never had a problem with the transmission again. Damn I forgot to buy lunch for that mechanic.who saved me the cost of a new tranny.
  • bgphotobgphoto Posts: 1
    My 99 has about 170k miles on it. Seems the transmission is on it's last leg. As you drive down the hiway it seems to surge to about 5k rpms then come back down while you are accellerating. It might go fine for 15 minutes and then do this again.

    This usually will happen while your getting up to speed but wife says it surges and seems to jump most of the time.

    Transmission fluid is full.

    Any ideas?
  • 88,000+ miles on my 2003 Grand Caravan ES, The latest problem has been diagnosed by a local dealership as a faulty Transmission Control Module. The dealership needs to get the part from another dealer because Dodge Parts doesn't have any in stock.

    Long delay without my wheels - 8 days. Is there a run on this part? Common vehicle - should have stocked parts.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,525
    Could be a lot of things, most of them-----er----not good.

    About all you can do is have the trouble codes read to see if there's any hint there, and then have hydraulic pressure tests performed to isolate the problem.

    MODERATOR

  • Posting Update - I'm now told that the part should arrive at the dealership on Aug 24th. Will be 3 weeks without the vehicle.
  • tierod1tierod1 Posts: 2
    I own a shop and put a BCM and A PCM thought is was fixed a week later the headlights started staying on,did you ever find out what was going on ?
  • Hi there,

    I'm in the UK and have the Grand Voyager (same as the caravan), and am having exactly the same problem. My issue is compunded by the fact that no-one over here seems to know what the hell they're doing with it, and will just default to saying it needs a new transmission.

    When it went into limp mode I called out the AA and to my amazement the guy that came to me used to live in the states and had spent 20 years working on these gearboxes. He told me also that it was the output speed sensor, 100% guaranteed, and the codes and the fact that the speedo didn't work just backed that up.

    I decided to take it to my local Chrysler Main dealer, thinking they would know what they were doing. They charged me £150, and as I drove off the forecourt the light came back on and it started doing the same thing. I took it back to them, and they said it needed more diagnostics - another £100. My question to them was - Why hasn't it fixed the speedo if you've replaced the correct sensor? they said - I don't know!!!

    The clip that plugs into the sensor was damaged, and the dealer just cable tied it on to secure it - is it possible that it could be the plug that is also faulty?? :sick:
  • osu1986osu1986 Posts: 1
    Last night, we came to a stop at a stop sign and it popped out of drive. A couple of secs later, it went back in on its own. This happened twice. We are afraid to drive it now as I work 20 miles from home. When we got home, I checked the trans fluid and it looked dirty but it did not smell bad. What do you think?
  • :I have a 93 voyager and am told the control modulator that tells all the sensors what to do has a pin leak in it and this is causing my van to do such things as when i take off from a stop sometimes it will not shift out of first or second gear into drive unless i stop and turn the engine completely off then on again and shift slowly into drive then sometimes it will go through all the proper changing of the gears and im off and rolling and sometimes i must repeat this procedure repeatedly and so far eventually it will take hold and function properly, then sometimes it will just drop into neutral from whatever speed im traveling be it 70 or 35 any help would be appreciated they quote me 5to800 dollars as just an estimate to fix what they aamco say is the problem
  • My 2001 Town and Country has 121,000 miles and the transmission is acting up all of the sudden. It lightly jerked a coupla times three days ago. Yesterday going 60-70 mph, it jumped into neutral. Coasted to a stop. It wouldn't do anything. After cooling a bit, it wouldn't do anything in reverse. It went forward a short way and jumped into neutral again. Had it towed home. A few hours later, checked fluid and it was normal. The van then did the exact same thing. Nothing in reverse and made coupla circles in the yard and jumped into neutral again. Talked to the best local transmission shop and they said the transmission is out and needs to be rebuilt at a cost of $1800 to $2000 . The van is only in fair shape. I bought it used. $2000 is only slightly less than its value anyway. Is there a way to fix it short of rebuilding the transmission? Please give me your thoughts.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,525
    You could try to store a used one from a wrecker, if they a) have inspected it b) will warranty the parts and c) have it all cleaned up and bagged (a good sign of a good wrecker).

    You could try to locate one at www.car-part.com

    MODERATOR

  • I just got done changing the tranny filter and tapping off with castrol ATF+4, now the problem is im getting a noise when shifting in to REVERSE and DRIVE, any ideas??? thanx in advance
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,525
    Did it meet this spec #? MOPAR ATF +4 Type 9602 or Equivalent

    What kinda noise?

    MODERATOR

  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    When a car owner has a major repair on an older vehicle, it is only natural to consider whether or not the repair is worth it, especially if the vehicle is only worth a few thousand dollars. However, the mistake most car owners make is that they compare the cost of the repair to the vehicle's worth. This is not the right way to make the decision. Really you need to compare the repair cost to the alternative; the alternative being what is the cost of a good reliable vehicle. So in your situation you have to ask, does spending $2,000 make the vehicle reliable enough that I don't need to replace it with another "more reliable vehicle"? The cost of a "more reliable vehicle" will usually be a lot more than $2,000. If you believe this repair makes the T&C reliable enough that you don't expect to have any other major repairs in the short term (say 2 years), then it's probably worthwhile to fix it. You may want to get the T&C thoroughly checked out by a good mechanic to see if there are any other problems. I had a 1986 Chrysler Laser that I bought for $1,200. Within one year I replaced the engine and transmission for $4,000. In total I spent $6,000 on the car over a 5 year period, but I drove the car 60,000 miles. That works out to $0.10 per mile. Where can one find a car that costs $.10 per mile? I gave the car to my brother and he still drives it today. Good luck.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I had a similar experience.

    We bought our 1998 DGC Sport 3.8 new in July of 1998 and it was my wife's daily driver and the family vacation vehicle for the next five years until she bought a new 2003 DGC ES 3.8. While we didn't actually need a third vehicle at the time, we opted to keep the 1998 as a "Home Depot and dump-run" hack, and over the next two years the odometer advanced from about 72,000 miles to about 75,000 miles.

    In 2005 I took a new contract that had me driving a bit over 120 miles per day (just for the commute) and decided that leasing another BMW was probably not a good option given 30,000+ miles I was likely to drive per year, and as such, I pressed the 1998 into service as my daily driver. Less than a year later I found myself rolling down an exit ramp as I watched the odometer click over to 109,000 miles and throught to myself, "Hmmm, I don't remember this ramp being bumpy before now." It turns out it wasn't; the jarring I had felt was the transmission lunching on itself.

    The rest of the van was in pretty good shape and so I opted to put a factory remanufactured transmission from Chrysler into it for the cost of $2,600; turned out to be a good decision. While I changed contracts a few times between then and 2008 when I sold the van, I managed to rack up enough miles on the old girl to just turn over 180,000 a couple of days before I got my new car. So, the cost of the tranny spread over 71,000 miles worked out to a hair less than 3.7 cents per mile. Not too shabby. :)
  • I have the same error with my 2001 Chrysler. The engine light came on this weekend and the code came back PO740 and PO700. I am not experiencing any difference in the car performance. I have not done anything different to the van's transmission in a few years. It has 125,000 miles.
    Does this mean I will need to replace my Torque Converter which means a rebuilt transmission?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    edited November 2010
    Assuming your transmission is running correctly, you probably don't need to open anything up. Take it to a dealership or a qualified transmission shop and have the extended codes read (they report on items like clutch thickness); I suspect (in order of likelihood) the TCM, the solenoid pack, low fluid level, or a clogged filter.
  • I've recently discovered a leak on the transmission of my 2002 chrysler t&c. i removed the pan and replaced the gasket to no avail..I've just realized that the leak appears to be coming from the front of the trans above the pan. I'm not a mechanic but I'm a fairly skilled parts changer. The problem I'm having is this: i would like a pic or schematic of the same transmission as I'm afraid to go any further on the repair. I can make out what looks like some type o seal where the fluid is leaking from but need to remove more stuff to get at it. there are three screws/bolts on the piece i would like to remove but they look like set or adjustment screws? i could solve this problem in a second with a diagram. Any ideas? thanks
  • I have a 2002 town and country. The transmission slipped today so I checked the fluild. It was low so I told my son to add some. He ended up adding Type F instead of the ATF+4. He had added less than half a quart by the time I caught him. Is this going to cause me a major problem. I am planning on having the fluid changed, but I would like to wait until after Christmas. Should I change it ASAP?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Yup, change it ASAP, the Type-F has friction properties that are not correct for the Mopar transmission and can cause the computer to constantly engage/disengage various clutches trying to get things locked up the way the programming expects. This clutch work can (and often does) destroy transmissions in short order.
  • Hi there

    I have a late 90's T&C Lxi and it got into an accident.
    While going 40miles an hour the van hit the curb and the bottom of the car was hit badly.
    After the car was towed to my drive way i looked at the damage and saw that the transmission sump and the hose running in front of it were hit and broke.( along with other minor parts)

    Can someone tell me if its possible to change the sump itself without taking out the transmission and what hose is located in front of the sump (towards the bumper)

    Id appreciate it very much if someone could help me out and explain it to me.
    Thanks
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    By transmission sump, I assume you mean the pan? If, so then the answer is yes, I'm certain the pan can be replaced without removing the transmission itself. That's the normal way to change out the tranny fluid and replace the filter - just drop the pan, catch all the fluid that comes out, replace the filter, put the pan back on (with a new gasket or sealant), and refill the tranny with the proper fluid.

    I do not know what the hose is you're referring to. Our Grand Caravan is not at the house right now or I would crawl under and have a look.
  • thanks allot
    will defenitly get to work on it when i can.
    Im not at my place, so i dont have any of my tools to do the job so it wont be a job for this week.

    The hose itself is completely torn and cant see where it leads too
    So if someone could still help me out with saying what it is and where i might be able to find a new one , would be very much appreciated.

    thanks for the help
  • Have 136K miles and getting a shudder that feels like clutches slipping - no warning lights. Especially noticeable going uphill at low power in high gears (2K rpm at 40 mph). Fluid is full and correct, has been flushed/filled 3 times since i bought new, filter changed too. Any thoughts?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Flushing your transmission is NOT RECOMMENDED by any manufacturer (including Chrysler). Why?

    A) the reverse flow of the fluid during the process can (and often does) damage internal valve bodies and such,
    B) possible contamination from dirty fluid (many shops do not properly maintain the fluid in their flush machines), and
    C) the potential for the introduction of non ATF+4 fluid (in the case of your transmission) that WILL negatively impact the ability of your transmission to shift (due to the incorrect friction properties of the new fluid). Here again, many shops use "universal" ATF, a fluid that is "universal" only in the sense that it is universally bad for all transmissions.

    I recommend you get whatever witch's brew of ATF out of your transmission by either dropping the pan and refilling with ATF+4 several times with say twenty or thirty miles of driving between each pan drop. As an alternative, if you have an oil extractor you can simply suck roughly a third of the ATF out of your tranny and then refill without having to drop the pan.
  • Drain & fill is what was done, at the dealership using ATF+4.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Are you sure they used ATF+4? I ask because shudder is a very common complaint when the ATF has been contaminated with non-ATF+4 fluids.
  • It's a Dodge dealer, so I expect they would, but you never can tell. I think I'll have them do it again and see if that helps since it isn't hugely expensive. Been 6 months since last change and only recently started.
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