Oldsmobile Aurora

blk97aurora

1997 at 135,500 miles. Original alternator, a/c compressor, coolant pump, and serpentine belt.

Les

asimmons136

1997 107,870 miles.
Original water pump, alternator, a/c compressor, radiator

only work done is spark plugs/wires, fuel pressure regulator, brakes and tires. --and of course routine oil changes

runs like a champ.

96holdout

1996-249,500
Still runs great. Replaced the water pump, plugs and wires at 117,000 miles when I bought it for 5K. I run low octane and get 23 mpg. Not bragging, this is just the most fun and mechanically sound car I have owned yet.

hammen2

103,500 on my '98. Back to being my daily driver now as it's time to put the '04 GTO away for the winter. Just put my 3rd set of tires on the car (got it 5 1/2 years ago w/27k on it) - the BF Goodrich Traction T/A's I had on it were cracking on the sidewall (got some $$$ on warranty). On my 2nd A/C compressor and third water pump - also had the leaking rear engine main seal - but my extended warranty (RIP 1SourceAutoWarranty) paid for all of that (on my own now). Last year I changed struts and shocks, now I'm about to put the Caddy sway bar on and change a bunch of suspension bushings (getting some sideways bounce on big bumps). Also need to change the passenger-side front window motor, it's really SSSLLLLOOOWWW rolling the window down or up...

asimmons136

have you tried lubing the window rails? I had this problem before and I just took a can of spray silicon lubricant with the red nozzle extender, stuck it into the window jam in the door, sprayed and it works better then the rest of my windows now.

morrison2

Greetings All,

I purchased an Auroa last week. The "SRV STABILITY SYST" warning came across the dashboard. Has anyone experienced this warning and should I be concerned?

Thanks,

Aaron

Henry

She is gone
She is gone OH I
I Gotta Learn How to face it
She is gone

YEP after first getting my 1995 in 1997 she is now a memory. The car made it to 116,700 and then that was it. It did not die on me but with a bad front-end, delayed start (sometimes won't start), needing breaks, and having an "engine miss" and a bright orange check engine light on for most of my recent journeys, it was clearly dying.

She's GONE she's gone
I'd pay the devil to replace her . . . . .

BUT NO I DID NOT HAVE TO PAY THE DEVIL TO REPLACE HER . . . .

For $5,500 I got a 2003 aROARa 4.0.

Henry

BY the way I still have the shop manuals for the 1995 Aurora, an air bag, a radio, and a throttle body. Is there anyone out there in Aurora land interested in any of the stuff??

Henri

silotwo

Sorry to hear the 95 is done but sounds like you got a great buy on the 03. I still have my 95 but she is acting up so I have been driving my 02 4.0 on a more regular basis. Curious to see what you think between the classic and the new generation. My opinion is that all they really share is the name, totally different rides, and quite honestly if the 95 wasn't such a money pit I'd much prefer it over the 02.

donnapaca

Henry
Do you still have the shop manals for the 1995 Aurora? What is the condition and price?
Also is the procedure for replacing the front brake pads the same as the rear. Top pin fixed and pivits and bottom one comes out and caliper pivits?

Don
donnapaca@aol.com

Henry

Ditto so far.

I miss the sound of the engine when I step on it. However the handling is better on the 2003. I also think the passenger compartment is smaller on the 2003. I do have the steering kink and the bad sensor that says the engine collent is low. I can live with these little imperfections.

I do love using the regular gas.

Henri

silotwo

I had the steering kink in my 02. Took it to the dealer and requested the ISS lube kit, which I was willing to pay for. Aurora surprise; when I picked it up it was at NO CHARGE and the dealer installed a NEW intermediate steering shaft. They said the old TSB for the lube kit had just been replaced with a new TSB calling for replacement. This was exactly 30 days ago. Give it a try, the car is much more pleasant with the new shaft. I bought the car used from a private owner and the dealer still made it right.

rjs200240

My mechanic drives an Aurora and works at a (former) Olds dealership, he says the computer should recognize the displacement and use it.

Same guy who told you the wheels pivot to make the turning radius tighter? Heheheh...

I'd find it hard to believe that the PCM has all the engine functionality behind some switch, like if displacement == 4.6 then (all N* engine control) else if displacement == 4.0 then (all Aurora engine control)

I'm sure the PCM could adapt to a point to the larger displacement via the O2 feedback and MAF feedback and such. But I don't believe there is any bore-diameter sensor feeding the PCM info about the displacement of the engine. I really doubt the car would run right if you just tossed in a 4.6L with no other changes.

Congrats on the '03 purchase. They definitely have less engine intake noise when you hit the gas. You could remove the sight shield to get a little noise back, but not a lot. That sounds like a real steal at $5,500 for it. Is it loaded? What color? What exactly was wrong with the '95?

The coolant sensor is in the overflow tank, and is barely below the full line. So it hardly takes anything to set it off. You might make sure the coolant is actually to the right level rather than dismissing the sensor.

Henry

YOu are funny. And you have a very long memory.

On another note. Here is one for the "how to make a nice car like poor taste" category. The car is a Seville currently on ebay.

Its worth taking a quick look, but it is not for the faint of heart.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110076437026&categ- ory=0&isfrommerc=1&refitem=250069269623&itemcount=8&refwidgetloc=loser_email&ref- widgettype=osi_widget&refitem=250069269623&itemcount=8&refwidgetloc=loser_email&- refwidgettype=osi_widget&isfrommerc=1

Henry

The 2003 does not have a sunroof or the Bose system. Two things I wanted in my next car. But the price was so right that I went with it. The car is like a cappucino color with a neutral interior.

The 95 had an engine "shutter" or "miss" (according to the trade-in guys that looked at the car), the delayed 1 secon start thing (one time it did not start at all), needed front end work, had a check engine light, needed breaks in the back, had the paint failure problem, and went through times when I was either smelling coolent or oil. Other than that the car was fine.

I am just a little annoyed because I had just finished putting new shocks on the car all the way around, performance breaks with the slotted rotors and a new alternator. All work that went down the rat hole. But such is life.

Henry

Hello all:

I have a few questions for the Aurorians out there. Now that I have Aurora: the Next Generation, I was wondering about a few things. From reading the postings, I know the daytime running lights are always on on the NExt Generation.

However, I also noticed that the automatice headlights are almost always on. Is the new Aurora sensor more senative than the Classic sensor? It seems that my lights are almost always on now. Whereas before, they only came on at night or when I was in a tunnel for a few minutes. How can you tell if the car has the rain sensing wipers or not? And how do you turn them on or off it if does?

The new steering column is a recent fix for the steering issue according to the other dealership I got the car from. They told me that it just came out about a month ago and they used it to replace some shafts in Bonnevilles. However, they could not tell me if it worked over the long-term beacuse the fix was so new. I hope that the guy that had his replaced with the new design will check back in with us at the 8 noth mark if he still owns the car.

I really thing the passenger cabin is smaller in the 2000's. But I don't have the front legroom comparison stats.

I also recently bottomed out when I was going over a curb bump. I thouught the days of the low overhange were behind me. I was going to put in new shocks upfront, but the service guy told me he did not think it was the shocks. He thought it was more of a design issue like the classics have.

Well after this one goes, I guess its the Lucern for me or a caddy.

Henri

Henry

How many of you out there still amintain your onStar service? I have never had it and with the new to me 2003 I have the opportunity to get it. Is it worth it? How much do you pay per month?

AND since I can not take the onStar antenna off, how does it handle a car wash??

bryan

Hi Henry: Congrats on your 2nd generation Aurora purchase; sounds like you got it for a really good price. I have an '03 4.0 Aurora. All '03s built were the 4.0 version. I too think the auto headlights are very sensitive on this car. More so than on my '04 Bonneville. I've gotten used to them.

The rain sensing wipers were standard on the '03 Aurora from what I can remember. That feature is on when the switch is moved one level above the normal resting place, but you have to make sure the intermittent dial is turned back all the way, or it overrides the auto rain sense feature. How I know it's not on is I can push the lever down and it will do one swipe for me. It reverts back to the neutral place (off) that I make sure I engage before using auto car washes. Click up one level above that and itis the rain sense/intermittent level, next click up is the slower of the two regular speeds. It took me a little while to get used to it, but now it's second nature.

I've had the intermediate steering shaft replaced on both the Aurora and the Bonneville. So far, no further problems. My Aurora, purchased new (on the dealer's lot two days), has been free of any mechanical issues--but I've had a few other problems that were fixed--blown BOSE speaker defective from the factory, sunroof rattle, etc. Great dealer service I must say.

My car is red bordeaux with the neutral leather. Almost all options, including the gold kit, which I wasn't sure I wanted but was okay once I saw the car in person. I routinely get 26-27 MPG highway, and high teens/very low 20's around town. It will be four years old next month, and I have 33K miles. I really enjoy driving this car. It's funny how different it drives from my Bonneville, which I believe was built on the same platform?

I wish you many many happy and trouble-free miles in the years to come. Enjoy your "new" ride!

melanievance

Hi!

I just happened to read your reply. I have a 98 Aurora that sounds like it has a similar problem. When you try to start the car, a little message comes across saying clean key - wait 3 minutes. Sometimes it starts after a couple minuites, but a few times it has taken a really, really long time. Is this what yours did? What needs replaced?

thanks!

Henry

Is it me or does this car somehow burn more gas? Witht he Classis I put in premium gas, with the 2003 I put in regular. My understanding is that this 2003 Northstar was tuned to run on regular gas. But I do not think I have the crusing distance with the 2003 that I had with the 1995.
I think the car needs a shock job also. At 93k its still riding on the original shocks/struts.

Henri

jstewartjr

Hey Everyone...I just purchased a 2001 Aurora this past weekend (Silver 3.5 V6 w/94,000 miles) for $3500 (got a great deal on it from a Dealer). I got it serviced at the GM Dealership yesterday and I noticed that when you start the car up now there is a "boiling water" sound that seems to be coming from behind the dashboard, any idea what that could be? I am in the process of having the Air Temp Actuator replaced as well because the climate control wasn't working properly...could that have something to do with it?

I also noticed that when I am turning the steering wheel sometimes there is a kink or click...any ideas about that as well??

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

James Stewart

imidazol97

>"boiling water" sound

that could be from water mixing with air in the heater core if the heater hasn't been cleared of air since system was drained or flushed.

If it varies with motor speed that would be a second symptom for me. Is the radiator full--check when cold, not hot for safety's sake. If the radiator is full the way my H-body 03 is cleared of air in the heater is when the motor is completely hot, including the lower radiator hose, run the motor up to 2500 rpm 5 times in a row. I always park the car somewhere so the nose is higher tohelp the air make its way out of the heater.

It could also be a blower motor inside the heater box hitting something that got in such as a leaf of piece of paper from the inside of the car. You might take the cover off the heater air filter and look in to see if you can see the blower motor and see any leaves or paper.

jstewartjr

Thanks for the tips, I will check out those things and let you know what happens.

James Stewart

blk97aurora

Henri,

There is a downside to redesigning a high-compression engine to run on regular gasoline, and you have just described it. In my opinion Olds should have kept the high compression and redesigned to add 50-75 horsepower. But the general wouldn't allow that because it would have cut into Cadillac sales. That was part of Olds' death spiral.

Les

bryan

I've run nothing but regular (87 octane) since the car was new. Twice I used 93 octane as the gas station was all out of 87, and sold the 93 at the cheaper 87 price.

Like I said in my earlier post, I routinely get 26+ mpg on my Aurora as it is mostly highway driving back and forth from Northern VA to DE coast. Around the Northern VA area, stop and go traffic, 19 to 20 mpg. Perhaps the classics had a larger fuel tank than the 2nd gen does?

I just got the letter from GM/OnStar that my OnStar will no longer work after December '07, since it is analog and they are switching to digital? They did close the letter by telling me that perhaps GM had an '06 or '07 model with the latest OnStar technology that I might be interested in? Well, not unless you want to make it worth it to me. I still like the car, so I'll just use AAA after December 07. Cheaper than buying a new car, especially since I still really enjoy driving the Aurora.

However, if GM were to send me some type of $$$ off certificate and/or cheap financing, well, I'm always willing to take a look at new cars. I do like the Buick Lucerne and the Caddy DTS. We'll see.

My car will be four years old the end of February. Even with only 34K miles, I'm wondering if I should have the dealer replace the battery at the 36K service? Any thoughts from the experts out there?

pegasusthunder

Hey there!!

On my Aurora, the clean key message didn't come on. Just the security light would come on. It turns out it was the ignition switch and some wires under the steering column. I have not had a problem with that since. Starts every time.

You may have a problem with the key. Sometimes it does happen. Have you had a new one made? Try that. It may help. Or it may be something in the ignition switch. But try a new key first. If it doesn't help, it may be in the ignition switch.

I wish you luck. Let me know what happened.

sampson6

hey guys wondering if I could get some input on my 97 aurora,

just got new Toyo 800's for it and have only had the car for about 1 month, and i'm finding the ride really bumpy and when i'm on the highway or doing high speeds, i'm getting strange wobbles almost like the cars floating. I was wondering whats wrong with it if anything, thought it might need new shocks or somthing, and there is about 220,000 KM's on it. Any input or advice would be greatly appricated. :confuse:

rjs200240

The cabin is bigger in terms of cubic feet, though not much. I doubt every dimension is bigger, some are bigger and some are smaller.

The car has a 17.5 gallon tank, I believe the classic is around 18.5-19 gallons, so that is ~20-30 miles less cruising range.

If you have the rain-sense wipers on, the headlights will be on too. That may be why they are on all the time. Also make sure the sensor is clean and not covered. I do not find it to be too sensitive. My headlights are not on all day, nor on on overcast days or anything.

As said, OnStar will stop working at the end of this year for analog-only cars (all Auroras). I've no idea why they didn't put a digital-ready system in the 2nd gen, as they existed by then. Pretty dumb if you ask me.

sampson6

This is in regards to the prior posts about the starter,

I have been seeing the same thing on my oldsmobile aurora 97' my security light has been on since I got it and it has been taking two or more tries to start the car on occasion. I was told that since the Aroura has quite a number of electronic gizmo's that the electronics usually are the first thing to go as the car gets older. I read a prior post about changing some wires or what not under the steering, I was wondering what it might have been exactly that was changed

Thanks

joe600

I am new to this website so i would like to say to everyone.I have had my aurora for about two years now,i paid $2400 for it with 80,000 miles on it and beautiful inside and out.Well i am having a few problems with it.First it's leeking oil from the front right.About a quart every week.second the traction control is on to stay,it use to work fine up until christmas.It started acting up and now it is on.Third when i start the car the temp gauge for the outside and inside blinks,The dic fuel mileage thing has atwo funny lines through it and the temp gauge wont work for the engine.As Soon as i put it in drive its fine.Can someone guide me please i love my aurora.thanks

joe600

I had the same problem with my 95.It is the key reader that is going bad.Pretty easy to change,not to pricy.

joe600

There is a seperate reader where the key goes in ,it reads the ohms of the key.I hav replaced a few of these already on other peoples auroras.You should get a new key with the reader .The parts department can read the ohms of your key and get it all matched up.You can also read the ohms yourself if you have a dvom.

joe600

My doorlocks go crazy when i plug the relay back in.Any ideas about it.

imidazol97

Does Aurora use the VATS system like on H-body cars around 1998. The key resistor gets read by a small circuit box which then sends a signal to the Powertrain control module (computer) which allows the starter to crank and the injectors to inject since the key has the right resistance read. The prongs in the lock cylinder don't make good contact or the wires in the column connecting those prongs to the smll circuit box (theft deterrent module may be the name?) break partly changing the resistance.

On some leSabres and others people have cut the wires at the base of the column and insert resistors to approximate the key resistance. The theft deterrent module always gets the right reading and allows the starter to work.

Does this work on the Aurora?

joe600

Yes sir it has the vats system.The wires go from the key reader into the anti-theft module,and yes they can break too.That is what was wrong with my aurora.They sell a bypass kit for it at advance auto.This way you do not have to replace the reader.I have never heard of putting a resistor in between the two wires,i guess that would work

joe600

Today i started my car up and it said check charging system.I put the dic on battery voltage and it read 11.8 volts (fluctuating).after a minute or two it went right back up to normal.If it does it and i shut the car off and then back on it is normal to.I have'nt checked the alternator in it yet just wanted to see if anyone came across this problem before.Please let me know.

imidazol97

You can try cleaning the contacts n the key with a rubber pencil eraser and try dipping it in alcohol and inserting it to clean the contacts inside the key cylinder that rub the key resistor.

Read this for an easy fix by putting in a resistor, group of resistors, to replace the key reading resistor.
Click here for info

I have another link if you wish to email me about replacing the resistor at the module that reads it. You're working with large diameter wires and not upside down under the steering column finding the right two tiny wires inside a tube that is a normal wire size.

Odd thing is some cars go into a failure mode where the theft deterrent module assumes it's doing something wrong and not getting the right reading and quits blocking the starts. No resistors needed. my email is written in my profile. Click on my name in the post.

joe600

Hey everybody i posted a couple of messages but have had no response'e yet.The # are 5767,5770,5774.If anyone has any ideas for me i would greatly appreciate it.This is my baby and want to keep it that way.I live in buffalo so it is just to cold to go out and mess with it outside in 14 degree weather.I am a mechanis my self but unemployed,my dealership just shut down because the owner sold to be flattened. I am supposed to go to my buddy's shop next week,but i would like to know or have an idea what i am looking at to be fixed.Thank you for your time and patience,would be sooooo greatful and thankful. JOE

Henry

Well I finally put the books side by side and came up with the following:

next gen. classic
Headroom front/back 38.6/37.7 38.4/36.9
legroom front/back 42.5/38.0 42.6/38.4
shoulder f/b 58.9/58.4 57.9/57.9
hiproom f/b 55.4/56.1 55.1/55.8

fuel tank 17.5 20.0*
trunk capacity 14.9 16.1

wheel base 112.2 113.8
overall length 199.3 205.4
width 72.9 74.4
height 56.7 55.4
curb weight 3803 3967
turning diameter 40.0 41.0

* This was listed as the fuel capacity as opposed to the fuel tank size. I don't know if there is a difference between how the measurements were made.

I realize that I may the only one that cares about this stuff at this point. But I thought I would post it.

Henry

I could not format my posting into columns, hence all of the emotion icons. Also, I thought the legroom was less in the 2003 vs. the 1995. But i think there is more to it than a .1 inch difference.

The fuel tank size difference would account for the longer cruising distance of the Classic over the 2000's. However, I have a clear memnory of the classic fuel tank being 18.5 gallons and not 20.

I got the 20 gallons form the 1995 sales broshure. Do any Classic owners have a different figure for their years?

Henri

imidazol97

5771, 5774 are responses.

joe600

no problems with the vats system went through that already.I put a fuel pressure regulator on it,no cold hard starts anymore.Took it to the dealership for the fuel rail recall to get done.cleaned out throttle body runs like new!Also put a k&n filter in it.As far as the inside/outside temp gauge i was told to check the wires going to the thermistor under the bumper that reads the outside temp.Hope it works.As far as the engine temp gauge not moving untill i put it in drive well thats next to figure out,and the doorlocks going crazy when i plug the relay in well....hum........thanks the info on here is like a gift from god !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

sampson6

hey guys,

just put a fresh battery in the olds aurora 97, (200 CAN later), and my audio system, or rather cd and am/fm radio system is locked up. Wouldn't be a problem if i didnt buy the car used and had the unlock code. its wasnt an ez code either as its not 000 or 100 or 111 or anything like that. The previous owner didnt put the code in the owners manual either i dont think. Don't know how to unlock the things any suggestions?

thanks

eg98

Put new tires on my '98. Running about 170,000km and hoping to get two more years out of her.

Lost the silly "hubcap" off the driver's side rear wheel. Will probably try to track one down at a wrecker's yard (no way I am paying for a new one).

Still think it is a great highway car, though I commute in town.

just_dave

I'm considering buying a 1999 Aurora, and have heard that Olds recommended premium fuel for these machines. Just wondering what the real-world experience is on the subject, and whether there are any negative effects from using regular. Gas is becoming expensive enough without diving into the need to buy a higher grade.

Thanks!

blk97aurora

Dave,

I do not remember if the wording was 'required' or 'recommended.' Some people on this forum have reported using regular 87 octane with no deliterious effects other than lower power. The thing they have not reported is that they also get lower fuel mileage.

The engine computer (ECM) uses a knock sensor to retard spark timing when detonation occurs, so you will not damage your engine.

Olds' recommendation or requirement was for 91 octane. Since premium where I drive is 93 octane and mid-level is 89, I sometimes fill a half-empty tank with 89 to save a few pennies.

Les

just_dave

Thanks Les. I had been reading reviews of the Aurora from years back, and a couple of them mentioned a need for high-octane but it wasn't clear if that was just a recommendation or requirement. Good to know that it will handle lower octane with no problems.

What kind of real-world gas mileage do you get with the Aurora?

hammen2

...upon whether you have the "Autobahn" optional 3.71 rear gear or the standard (3.48?).

I have the Autobahn Aurora... mileage goes anywhere from 18 mpg if it's predominantly city driving to 26 mpg if it's predominantly highway. My Aurora also runs better on non-reformulated gas (i.e. no Ethanol)...

blk97aurora

Dave,

My experience with my non-Autobahn Aurora pretty much matches Robert's 18/26 with an exception. On several 600-mile trips between NJ and TN, I have gotten 31-32 mpg. Conditions: a/c off, windows up, very steady on the throttle, and speed limit + 5 to 10. Mileage was consistent between DIC and miles divided by actual fuel used. I did not use cruise control because I think I can do a better job because I can see hills coming up.

The EPA rating for '96-'99 Auroras was 17/26; as far as I know, there was no difference for Autobahn-equipped Auroras. YMMV.

Les

eg98

I find mid-grade is more than sufficient.