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Oldsmobile Aurora

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Comments

  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    fjk - just buy the Caddy - yeah, but the the Aurora is just so much better looking than a Seville. Nothing against the Caddy, but I love the classic and would still take the new Aurora over a Seville any day for styling. Just MHO. I just love the style.

    rjs, fjk - in addition to the bore, the caddy hot rod guy said that the heads, valves, and cam are different. No surprise there I guess. But yeah, they are virtually identical engines.

    rjs - yes, I think the 275 would be the one to get. Looking at the power curves of both engines on caddyinfo.com, the 275 has more HP all the way up to 5,000 rpm +/- and way more torque all over as well as producing the peak torque down lower. I think the 275 HP engine with the 3.71 that the STS has would be a faster car to 60 and in the 1/4 mile. But 300 HP sounds so much better.

    My 98 goes to 6,200 rpm +/- in all 3 gears when hammering it. Never been there in OD, don't plan too, maybe not possible if the drag limited you. Actually, 3rd was experienced on the dyno and I took it to about 6000 or so before I took the foot off.

    rjs - I'll look into getting the cleaner. Perhaps I should try the clay too. Thanks. Somehow I think the damage is done though.

    That clay stuff is cool. When I got my car, it had a lot of light "overspray" on it. I had a detail shop clay the whole car and it removed all of it. I was impressed.

    Why GM made a 4.0? - It has to be more effort just to make two versions of the same engine. I really think the reason for the 4.0 is to leave something exclusive to Cadillac. Same reasoning for no V8 in the Buick luxury cars. I doubt there is anything significantly cheaper in the production of the 4.0.
  • hardestyhardesty Posts: 166
    The heads (I think) are naturally different because of the different bore, but the 4.0 and 275hp 4.6 share the same cams (at least in the current revision, 2000+), and probably the same valves. It would be very hard to increase a 4.0 to 4.6 because the cast in place iron cylinder linings probably don't have enough room to allow that kind of bore increase. I would consider the swap (if I had that kind of money) as long as the Olds intake cover would fit on the 4.6L. I just would not want to open the hood of the Aurora and have to look at the Cadillac logo.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    hardesty - it's funny you mention that, because the guy at CHF mentioned the same thing and thought it would probably fit. It would be nice to still have everything look stock. Somebody else might actually want the changes to be obvious.

    I think it's kind of nice that with the my modified air box, filter, and mass air flow sensor, everything looks normal under the hood. The MAF is a modified unit from the factory, so it's a totally stock fit. Under full throttle though, the car behaves a little differently.
  • Just took delivery of my 2002 Aurora 4.0 with everything except heated seats (here in california).

    Now I need to get through the 500 mile break in period, and test the PCS...

    The GPS is pretty darn cool, and the car is overall very nice and comfy.

    I'm surprised how well it really handles for its size.
  • 122 miles, and I love the car. But there are some bad features:

    1) the audio quality of the navigation radio is below the standard I expect. GM has excellent audio systems on tap from the Monsoon systems, which are excellent. If this is Bose, then my already low opinion of bose is reinforced.

    2) man this car handles well. I can make it corner harder and at faster speeds than my Trans Am, and I'm not kidding. I think it's because on the TA I was mostly worried about the rear end kicking out, and the Aurora doesn't have that kind of steering problem.

    3) the GPS system is overall good, but it's really annoying that it is so bright when driving at night. I have to turn the brightness all the way down, and it doesn't appear to save the brightness settings between "daytime" and "nighttime" modes (at least when you have "auto" selected).

    4) I can't believe the DIC doesn't have a clock.
  • The shift indicator light is burned out and I was wondering if any of you have had the same problem. I am planning on taking the console apart, but was wanting to see if any of you had any advice before I jump in and start taking it apart.
  • onlyinajeep,

    Had the same problem with my '97 -- broken wires. I think I posted a solution several months ago.

    Pat, when will that search feature be available?

    The wiring that powers the shift indicator light is small gauge, solid, with no strain relief. I replaced the wire with very flexible test lead (Radio Shack) and used several tie wraps to provide strain relief at the connection points.

    You will need to remove the console tray; six screws -- four at the top and two at the bottom. At the front of the wood trim remove two screws from the horizontal surface behind the ash tray door. Pull off the black trim panel surrounding the radio -- pull straight back toward shifter. I believe there are two more screws behind this trim panel. The shifter handle comes off by pulling straight up after removing the u-shaped clip that faces the radio. I hope I haven't forgotten anything.

    Good luck.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    I had just gone back to your post #1834 (I printed it for future reference) and was about to copy & paste your post again for onlyinajeep. Great timing.

    Good to hear from you.

    How has the 97 been? By the way, when I had the car in for a door handle fix, I did confirm that my 98 has no grease fittings in the front. They said early 98's had them and later 98's did not. I guess 97 would have them like you have mentioned way back some time ago.
  • Thanks for the info folks!!!!! I will try taking it apart tomorrow. I will be sure to post how it all worked out. Again, thank you. :)
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    the plastic pieces on my steering wheel are really starting to show their age (1995). Can you replace the plastic pieces withou replaceing the whole center console of the steering wheel? I am talking about the plastic volume,fan, etc. buttons and the pieces that surround them.

    Am I the only one having this problem?? Basically, the paint is coming off of the plastic.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I am finally starting to see the 1999 Auroras for sale as used cars. NOW I just need to find a fully loaded triple Black one (for $12,000) and I will be happy.
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    Hey there buddy - going for another Aurora? Good for you!!

    I've been seeing 2001s lately. In fact the dealer where I bought my Bonneville last year has a 2K1 same color as yours for $17.5K. I sat in it and loved the car. Maybe in a couple years I'll go for a 2K2 4.0 myself.

    Take care

    Ken

    P.S. I may meet Chuck on Sunday Mar 3 on my way home from Pa. Going to be around?

    Ken
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I don't believe the Bose option can be had with the navigation radio. Did you order it with both? I had a Bose stereo in my 1987 Corvette, and I got it in the Aurora and have been very impressed with both. I find the Monsoon systems to be overly bassy. They are loud, but not very clean. The Bose systems sound very clean to me, and higher range sounds really sparkle.

    The DIC doesn't have a clock because there is a very prominent one on the non-navigation radios. The car was not designed with the nav in mind, so this is probably why it seems sort of "add-on" rather than well-integrated. I have to say, for me your comments reinforce my decision not to get the nav system. I don't like trunk cd-changers, I love the Bose system, and nav systems tend to be annoying when you have to use the touch screen for radio or (not in the Aurora) climate control buttons.

    I'm glad you are satisfied with all the rest, though. I really love mine. That exhaust sound is great, and I love the interior. Especially the wood and the two-tone color. My only complaint is that the trunk feels so cheapy when you open and close it.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    I too love the Bose in the 98. I think I did hear something too about the Bose not coming with the navigation.

    From what I've heard about the nav. systems, I don't think I would want it either. Just give me a good map.

    Henry - I'm sure you could order any new interior piece you want. Just call the parts department. I've replaced the lens over the spedo and tach just to get rid of the old scratchy one. I haven't seen any Aurora's with the paint coming off the interior dials. Good luck with a 99. I'll bet there are some great deals to be had. Look for an Autobahn if you can too. I don't know about 12k for a 99 unless it had a lot of miles. I wouldn't use e-bay as a gauge either. Anybody that has gone used car or even house shopping knows you really have to "see it" to know what is going on. Even a scratched up, dinged up car that is getting ratty on the inside will look nice in a photo if it's been washed. I really wonder about some of those e-bay cars. Just for fun, I would run the VIN through carfax (when I got my car) and some of those e-bay cars were indeed restored cars that had a salvage title.

    QUESTION for "new" Aurora owners. What does the owners manual say for the torque on the lug nuts on the 17 inch wheels? Sometime this spring/summer I will be putting my new chrome Aurora 17's on the 98 when I get new tires. It's probably 100 ft-pounds, but I just wanted to check. I believe this will look very cool on the classic.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    The torque rating is 100 lb-ft for the wheel lug nuts on the 2002 4.0. Is that the same as on your classic? Do the wheels have the same offset and bolt pattern? It should look cool with the 17"ers. The only thing that bothers me is that the wheels are directional (although only slightly) but there isn't a different wheel for the left side and right side. I realize that would prevent side-to-side rotation, but it also means that the wheel spokes appear to curve forwards on one side of the vehicle, but backwards on the other side. That bugs me a little bit.

    Jephjeph, I'm pretty certain that the Navigation radio will replace the Bose radio. If you have the Bose, you should have "U1F" listed on the build sheet (under the spare tire cover). If you have the Navigation radio, it will be "UM8" and if you have both, then both should be there. I can *almost* guarantee that you can't have both.

    I thought it was a little weird in a previous post when someone asked how to remove the labels on their new Aurora. However, the more I look at the back, the more I want to remove the "Oldsmobile" label. If it weren't there, the rear would be very symmetric (except for the keyhole). Plus, it looks sort of tacked on and doesn't really match the styling or size of the "Aurora 4.0" or the Aurora symbol. I don't want to pretend it isn't an Olds, but I am starting to think it would look cleaner without the badge.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    rjs - yeah, I checked with the dealer first thing. Everything is the same. The classic is 100 lbs as well. I just add an extra 2 to be safe, and if that can hurt anything, then that is some really sensitive equipment. I ask because my buddy has a 95 chevy truck that takes 95 lbs. I guess it can be different from car to car.

    I never thought about the look of the rotation thing, but I think you might have a point. That's a little weird.

    I really think it will look tough on a black classic. They should have come out with those wheels years ago at least as an optional upgrade.
  • Henry,

    I've been thinking along the same lines -- '99 with low miles and remaining warranty. My '97 has been good to me so far (73 000 miles), but the price of repairs scares me.

    For an Aurora, what does triple black mean? I understand black exterior and black interior, but what is the third black? I prefer the gray interior because it seems cooler in the summer.
  • Greg,

    Interesting about the deletion of front grease fittings during the '98 model year.

    I finally found a used intake airbox ($23 plus shipping) and expect to receive it within a couple of days. Yesterday I looked at my parts microfiche and was surprised to see that the '95 airbox lists for $408, while the '96 to '99 lists for $134. That's one heck of a difference!

    I studied your dyno results on the caddyinfo site. I'm puzzled that the improved hp with the K&N drops to zero at 5800 PM. Do you understand why? I would think the extra airflow would be even more important at higher RPMs. I wonder if there is something about the K&N that reduces airflow at higher speeds.

    Anybody planning to bid on the IRL engine on eBay? :,) Auction starts at $45 000 -- only 375 miles.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Did you remove the badges from your new car? How did it go? I think I am going to remove the "Oldsmobile" text from the back of mine. I really think it looks out of place. Do you have any tips? Thanks!
  • daevendaeven Posts: 28
    I've been slacking lately, but I rolled 199K miles yesterday. I've been working out of my local office, so I'm only putting 12 miles on each day. It may take me a couple of months to hit 200K at this rate.

    For those of you who don't remember, I bought the car with 150K miles. I just called the dealership that serviced it for those 150K miles and asked for a copy of the service records. I'll post next week so you know what parts a 200K Aurora can go through.

    My car also has lost the paint on the steering wheel controls. I'll be interested in replacing the buttons if it is easy and economical.

    Regarding fixing the shift indicator light: be careful when pulling the shift lever off; I managed to break the normal/agressive trans button wiring.

    Dan/Chicago 'burbs
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