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Oldsmobile Aurora



  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Blk97 - The first graph shows the power gain from adding just the K&N vs a clean paper filter. The air box was stock for those two runs. It shows about +6 1/2 or 7 HP at the high RPM's, and 1 to 3 HP in the 4,000's.

    The second graph shows the power gain just from the modified air box (I think that is the one you are puzzled by). Both runs on the second graph used a K&N, the only difference was the air box. It's stock vs modified.

    On the second graph you are right. No HP past 5,800 or whatever (no added torque either). It is very interesting to say the least. Evidently, at the higher RPM's the air flow characteristics of the modified air box are no better than stock. Therefore the better box gives you no added peak HP but still adds more peak torque down in the 4,000's.

    That's what sent me grinding away all those inner flanges and air flow obstructions inside the box after the initial modifications. But the dyno proved that the added effort did not matter.

    My theory is that the flow characteristics of the modified box are such that they cause turbulence at the extreme high end that negates any added air flow so the flow equalizes back to stock.

    HOWEVER, the modified air box does add more HP going up the curve. It actually adds a little more power than the K&N in the 4,000's, and between 4,600 and 4,850 or 4,900, it adds as much as perhaps 8 HP. It changes the shape of the curve.

    Adding the two is really nice. Adding the granatelli MAF seems to give even more.

    Anyway - DON'T bother with all the intricate extra cutting like I did. Just open the bottom hole to match the bottom hole in the metal, and remove the top liner. That's it. You will have 99.9 % of what I got from all the extra work.

    The 95 air box is a little different, and therefore costs more I guess. I'd bet a 96-99 box would fit a 95 though.

    Final note - I need to call extreme motor sports about that northstar cold air induction again. I hope they do this. Maybe it will fit an Aurora. The one thing the air box mod doesn't help with is that hard 90 out of the top. That thing is a strangler I bet. A truly designed performance induction would perhaps add a few more HP on top of the box mods. Maybe more.

    Let me know if this clears things up.
  • So yes, I did de-badge it. So far I've just removed the "Oldsmobile" logo, and I'm plotting the remainder.

    I was originally thinking of moving the 4.0 logo to the top right corner, but while easy to remove, I don't think it'd be easy to re-attach.

    I used the dental floss to "cut" the foamy part, and then removed the remaining half with my fingernail. After applying tar remover, it looked perfect.

    Now to just get the grease pen marks off my tail lights as it came from the dealer that way... (!)

    I also Zaino'd my seats with leather in a bottle. The seats are now softer and protected. Zaino is the best.
  • Anybody know what the size and impedance of the stock speakers are?

    These suckers aren't long for this world, I'm sure.

    Also, what's the output of the nav radio?
  • I posted a similar message to the "Care & Maintenance" discussion a week ago. So far only one response (thank you rjs200240). C&M has not seen much action. I plan to post several other maintenance-related messages in the next few days; maybe we can get C&M rolling.

    When I started looking for the right replacement spark plug for my '97, I was surprised to find four answers for AC spark plug number and two answers for spark plug gap. Here's what I found:

    owner manual AC 41-929 0.050
    service manual AC 41-900 0.050
    parts microfiche AC 41-950 ----
    emissions label ----- 0.060
    #4 cylinder AC 41-947 0.053

    I think the emissions label is most likely to be accurate. Unfortunately it does not specify the plug number. My car has 73 000 miles and likely has the original plugs; I bought it at 37 000 miles. So it looks like the plugs may have started with 0.050 gap.

    Do any of you know the correct spark plug to use? Also, does anyone know how to decode the AC numbers (heat range, tip projection, etc.)? I have searched the web with no worthwhile results.
  • blk97aurora

    Can't help much on a 97--I have a 95:

    The recommendation for the 95 was changed from the AC 900 to the AC929.
    The AC 929 with a ribless insulator was recommended for better boot
    retention. The spec for the 95 calls for a .050 (1.27mm) gap and a torque
    of 11 lbs.--a recommendation to use a wire gage (for more accurate results).

    I changed to AC Rapid Fire plugs for my Buick--will have to check to determine
    if they are available for and/or recommended for use in the Aurora.(Read a
    note which cautioned against using plugs with a heat range not recommended for my
    particular engine--indicated that severe engine damage could result.)
  • I'm pretty sure Olds designed the 4.0 engine so they would have a racing engine in a "real" car platform to try to connect racing to their regualr cars. I'm almost positive the 4.0 size was an IRL requirement, so my guess is that the difference in size has something to do with that.
  • Hey - in case you didn't get my e-mail, my addy is - really interested in the rotors.
  • fredvhfredvh Posts: 853
    I am new to this board but I need some information from Oldsmobile Aurora or Intrigue owners of late model years. I am considering these two along with Lexus ES300, Buick Regal, Acura TL, Infiniti, and Toyota Camry. I have owned imports in the past and am very leary of going back to American cars because of the question of dependability. I would like some imput from late model Aurora owners(new style) and Intrigue owners concerning the dependability or lack-there-of in their cars. I would like gas mileage figures concerning the 3.5l engine. I also would like to know what the RPM figure is on the 3.5l engine at 70mph. I have also heard that one cannot change the battery without taking several other things apart first. Is this true?
  • The battery is in the back seat. Removal is pretty easy, at least I think so.

    I can't answer the rest of your questions; I've got a 4.0!

    re: dependability: it's got a 5 year, 60k warranty. I think that's excellent!

    I haven't had enough cars to ever experience a bad GM car.

    88 Buick LeSabre, 220k miles, only added oil & gas & tires, + regular tuneups.
    98 Trans Am, 64k miles, rear differential (warranty),
    02 Oldsmobile Aurora: nothing yet! (knock on wood)
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    That is interesting about the 4.0 size. However, Olds didn't get involved in IRL until 1997. The Aurora V-8 did compete in IMSA before IRL, but I'm not sure when, or what the engine requirements were for that. Also, the current IRL engine size limit is 3.5 liters, and they didn't downsize the passenger car version of it. I think I would subscribe to the theory that they didn't want to upstage Cadillac, and possibly that it was a little cheaper to produce.

    Fredvh: You might check out posts in the 2000-2010 area and the 2200-2210 area. You will find some comparo info that has already been tossed around. As far as the battery, it is under the rear seat. However, how often do you plan on changing it? Don't know about the 3.5 cruising rpms because I have a 4.0. Same goes for mileage. I want to say it is around 2000 rpms at about 60-65 mph for the 4.0, and I can easily get 20 mpg in city-type driving if I am easy on it. Otherwise about 17-18 when I drive enthusiastically. I don't do much highway driving, but I can get about 26+ while on the highway. Driving style makes a difference, though. The 4.0 and 3.5 have different final-drive ratios, but they also have different transmissions.

    Personally I think the Aurora smokes the ES300 for luxury and performance for the buck. And I think the ES and Camry are pretty unattractive. I can't get over the hideous gauges in the Camry. I don't care much for the wood coloring in the ES. The Camry has gauges inside gauges, so it is possible for needles to intersect. What the heck were they thinking?? The Regal GS is really an incredible performer. My dad has a 97 and I have raced him in my 87 Corvette a few times. It was quite close. That Regal can lay down a pretty serious rubber patch too. However, I think the Intrigue is a bit more refined and I like the styling a bit better (if only the spoiler and chrome wheels weren't included on the GLS).
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    If you're going to be reselling or trading in the car within the next 5 years, I'd avoid Olds entirely - resale values are pretty low (to the point where most leasing companies won't even touch an Olds - not that I'm a big fan of leasing, at least not for me).

    The new Aurora (especially later 2001 and all 2002) seems to be relatively defect-free. Earlier Intrigues had problems with steering/brakes, but GM, as they always do, fixes the bugs (right before they kill the car - see the Fiero). There's still an alternator issue (flickering lights - see the Intrigue board).

    The 3.5 has been out since the middle of the '99 model year, with no major recall or quality issues. Of course, it won't be made after the '02 model year, meaning the Intrigue and the Aurora 3.5 will end production as well (the Aurora 4.0 is supposed to soldier on for another year, but, with sales as low as they are, GM may axe the whole thing earlier than planned).

    Just because something won't be made any longer isn't a reason not to buy it (can't buy a 2000 Camry any longer, can you? Doesn't mean it's not a bad car, or that parts aren't available). The pricing (relative to the Camry/ES300) and warranty are excellent, and, again, if you're going to keep this car for 5+ years, and don't have high resale expectations, you shouldn't pass up an Olds.

    Hope this helps,

    (98 Aurora Classic black/black/chromes/Autobahn/Bose :-)
  • 1. Brilliant silver 2001 Aurora with 19,000 miles and 3.5 liter V-6 engine.

    2. I just completed a 2300 mile round trip to south Florida over a two week span. 750 miles down, 800 miles around town, 750 miles back. Total fuel efficiency of 24.5 mpg on 87 octane from all different brands of gasoline. Highway speeds of 60 mph - 78 mph depending on posted limits. Occasional passing speeds of 80+ mph without any problem. Air conditioner on for almost the entire trip. Tire pressure at recommended 30 psig.

    3. Maintenance has included switch to synthetic oil around 1500 miles, regular oil changes every 7500 miles, and tire rotation. Problems so far include an occasional low moan from the power steering unit (dealer technician can reproduce, but doesn't know what it is, and advises that unit is within spec, and doesn't consider it a safety hazard - so, I'm not worried), and one burned out rear fog lamp, which I hope to get changed under warranty. I went over the car with a fine tooth comb, and found no delivered defects - paint almost perfect, fit and finish very good, all systems operating per the owner's manual. Oh, yes, one minor delivered defect - the plastic window for the DIC (Drivers Information Center) at the top of the center stack has a few bubbles in it - - not noticeable except to a man in love with his car.

    4. Personal opinion - - I love my car! Not one minute of buyer's remorse. Looked at the Lincoln LS and the Buick LeSabre and the Pontiac Bonneville. All good cars, but this one seemed to fit me the best for now. I'd buy another one tomorrow if I could afford it. (Wife might have a problem with me having two big boy toys at once.)

  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    FREDVH - one thing to consider is the growing realization that Toyota/Lexus apparently has a serious design issue that can contribute to sludge formation in the engine. Here is a link to the story. I don't know if this issue concerns brand new stuff on the lot right now.

    The only thing I'd add to the story is that while a car may not be showing any signs of being affected by sludge, it may still have some lesser amount of accumulation which is enough to turn me off.

    If you do go Toyota/Lexus, I'd use synthetic oil ALL the time to be safe.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Can any of you tell me the issue with premium fuel and the possible formation of deposits due to its use in the older Northstar engines? I've seen this issue on Cadillac boards. I've called Caddy dealers and they say they have not heard of this. Would/could this affect the older 4.0?? If so, wouldn't using a fuel injector cleaner periodically prevent this on parts that are exposed to the fuel like the injectors and valves?

    Also - I'm considering having the fuel injectors, throttle body, etc cleaned by the local GM dealer with some special product they have. I can't remember the name of the product.

    Is this OK?? Or am I just as well off regularly using fuel injector cleaners (every 3,000 to 5,000 miles) and then just having the throttle body butterfly separately cleaned??

    Is there something better or special about what the dealer does????

    I'm anticipating an oil change being needed shortly after they would do this if a lot of debris were released into the engine.

    What do you think???
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Rocket3_50: Are the bubbles on the DIC there because there is a protective plastic sheet on it? I believe the display (as are most LCDs) is glass, not plastic. You might see if the protectant sheet just needs to be removed (like when you buy a watch or a clock).

    Garnes: I've never heard of premium fuel leaving more deposits. It usually has more detergents in it to combat deposits. This is part of why it costs more. If you use regular fuel, then you might need injector cleaner. As far as cleaning the throttle body, you can do that yourself with throttle-body cleaner. All the crud will either run out the front of the throttle body (some newspaper under the mouth will catch ith, unless you plan on running the engine while using the cleaner) or will get burned off in the engine after you reassemble it and start the engine up. It will also help clean out the intake manifold. However, it mainly keeps the throttle body from gumming up and sticking. I doubt enough crud builds up to affect airflow at all. The crud is like a thin layer on the walls of everything. It isn't thick or chunky or anything. More like a haze. There are some injector cleaners that involve hooking up a pressurized canister to the fuel line. This might work better than a fuel additive, but that doesn't mean that is what the dealer will do.

    I would ask what exactly they will do first. If they don't do anything special, then just do it yourself. Cleaning the throttle body is a breeze, and you can make sure you get everything off. You might try gently brushing it with a toothbrush or something if it is real dirty.

    If you use premium fuel, I wouldn't worry about using injector cleaner all that often. I would be a bit worried about what that stuff does to an engine when used so often. Gasoline has certain standards to be approved by the auto makers association (can't remember the exact name) while those additives don't have to meet anything except the requirement to catch a person's eye in the store, and have claim enough miracles to get you to buy it. It isn't that I don't think some of them do what they say, but I wouldn't use one every 3,000 miles in my car...

    Fredvh: We could probably be more helpful if you explained what some of the priorities are for you. What do you want the car to do most? Be fun? fast? luxurious? look nice? impress people? be cheap? haul people? No car can be everything to everyone, so we could help your decision with some more facts. The Aurora drives great. The engine performs, and the sound is awesome. The interior is the best I've seen. However, the Intrigue (and other cars) is more sensible because it is cheaper, and can be had with many of the same features like stability control and heated seats and such, plus it is cheaper and has more trunk space, fold-down rear seats, and similar interior room (slightly less). What are you looking for?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I have not had any problems with my car lately. Maybe the 60,000 mile mini maintenace explosion is over.

    Although, I still have trouble believing that there are only two of us losing paint from the pastic steering wheel buttons and housing. Since both of us are 95 Classics, are you guys telling me it is limited to that year?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Henry, maybe the 96 guys will have that problem next year, and 97's the year after that... :)
  • Have any of you guys noticed a significant power increase in 3rd gear? In my old Dodge Avenger it would not make a difference until it went to shift into OD but with my car I noticed that its different. On your way home put your aurora in 3rd in the city and see what you think.
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    Henry, I too have a 95 and the paint is chipping off the top left button. That makes 3 of us.
  • If you get Armour All or other cleaners on the paint on the buttons it will wear off. I had that happen to another GM car I had. Unless you find a junked car somewhere or want to pay the dealer for a new steering wheel....forget about it.
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