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Oldsmobile Aurora

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Comments

  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    If the security light comes on when drivng, it means the the anti theft system has failed (no longr operating) for some reason. This has happnd to me and the fix hase been to use the reset button on the alrm system.

    Hope this helps.

    I once entered the car, sat down and noticed taht the security light was on even though the system was suppose to be off since I just opened the car wth the clicker.

    the car would not let me start it or do anything.
    I had to press the rest button a few times before the system reset and allowed me to start the car.

    Hope this helps

    Henri
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    The one thing i did not mention is that my Toyos have all dry rotted. I understand that the tread may be low, but I do not understand why the tires dry roted after only two years of use.

    I hope you have btter luck with them than I did.
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    We both have 95's. Where is the reset button you are talking about for the security light? On the tire subject, I have the autobahn pkg and after my original mv4's, I tried a brand called ziex from NTB and everyone commented how wide the tires looked, but they only lasted a couple of years. I am now trying the Michelin symetry tires for the past 16k miles which are rated at 99 mph instead of the v rated tires which are much higher and I like the ride much better than my previous two sets.
  • sinatra2sinatra2 Posts: 65
    I have a 96 and I find the security light can be reset by turning off the ignition and re starting or pressing the panic button "on and off" on the key fob. It also goes off on it's own after about 5 to 10 minutes of driving. My light does not come on that often but the wiring on our classics is very complex as everything is integrated. Ignition,interior lights,exterior lights,horn and door locks are all connected to the alarm system in some way. For a while at night while driving I had an intermittent problem with my interior lights going on when I pressed the brake pedal. That problem was eliminated when I cleaned the manual light switch connections on the steering wheel. Great auto though, even though I thought it was haunted for a while
  • Does GM use a used Pepsi or Coke can for this? Seriously. Where is this thing? Under the dash you say, but where exactly? I might try the foam thing. Either that, or an air horn. he he.

    BTW, does the Aurora (Classic) yell at you if you leave the signal on for a while? I'd try it out myself, but would feel kind of stupid. Maybe I'll wear a blue wig.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    If the turn signal is on too long, the car makes the same sound it makes if you leave your keys in the ignition and open the driver side door.

    the car "bings' it does not yell.

    The Aurora is no street brawler (unless you try to take it at a red light). ;)
  • larryfllarryfl Posts: 214
    Gisom: I have a '95 also. According to my owners manual we don't have a security alarm in our cars. I think Henry's was added. My security light did go on one day and stayed on throughout the day as I stopped and started the car (engine) several times in my normal driving routine. Owners manual said that signaled a failure in the SecureKey system. Car would still start but not have the secure key protection. The next day, the light was off and hasn't been on since. (I love it when the car fixes itself!).

    I have left my turn signal on a few times and the DIC alerts you to it with a chime and message: 'Turn Signal On?'.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    My alram is the same GM alrm tat comes from the factory. However, judging from prior feedback I received on the topic, the alarm was added by the dealer. this seems to make sense since I had to take the car back to the dealer to have the alrm serviced. The dealer had hooked up the alarm so that if the alarm sounded, you could press the unlock button on the door to shut the alarm off. I had that changed.

    I would suggest you ask the dealer where the reset button is for the alarm. Hopefully a servce tech at the dealer would know. Mine is underneth the dash board directly beneath the steering column.

    I don't know if it will be in the same place for you. In any event , it is ai little red button.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    You realize that you just have to do something about the sound of the turn signal click.

    Also, if you want to change the car's chime to a Westminster chime, consider yourself equally obsessed.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    I only notice the vibration when I step on the brakes and then mainly at higher speeds. So I suspect that the problem is a warped rotor. They were turned once after the front calipers "hung" and burn up the front pads. So, my guess is the front rotors were "toasted".
  • rhale2rhale2 Posts: 8
    The "can" is under the dash, next to the steering column. You have to remove the plastic panel that hides all the wires and stuff under there.
  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    Well guys, my Aurora is gone. Finished the sale yesterday. No more exhiliration for me. Of course, there will be lots of camping and off-roading in the new 99 diesel suburban. Was really sad to see the baby go. Hopefully the new owner will be on here soon.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Garnes, that post was hilarious. Especially about the Mark Levinson audio. But, you forgot that there aren't any ES's at the junkyard. They are all running flawlessly delighting their owners with the lack of repairs needed and their perfect* driving dynamics (* Disclaimer: Perfect only applys to Lexus' that drive like this. Transfer of dynamics to other cars will result in cars being called "floaty", "slow", or "vanilla" and may cause car to be compared to water-going craft).

    Steve, glad to hear it didn't cost you a fortune to repair that tire. That's really strange that you'd have two of them blow out. I've never had a tire blow out in my life. That's also interesting about the factory tires being cheaper. It's not surprising, though.

    Shucknet, sorry to hear you parted ways with the Aurora. You never know, though. It may not be your last experience with one. Best of luck with the Sub.

    FJK57702, "So I suspect that the problem is a warped rotor. They were turned once after the front calipers "hung" and burn up the front pads." Uh, yeah, I think that would do it...
  • Hey ya'll. My horn and controls for the audio and climate system have stopped working. Is there a harness or fuse that controls all of these that could be giving me these problems.

    Your help is appreciated.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    Did you get an aftermarket radio, the reason I ask is because the same thing happen to me after I had installed a Kenwood eXelon aftermarket radio unit, I lost all my steering wheel controls. Over at http://www.crutchfield.com they told me that I can purchase a separate harness that would allow me to use my steering wheel controls once again but, for 60 or 70 dollars, I don't think so. Peace.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I'll move the tire discussion here. Those run-flat Michelins are interesting, but the extra-thick sidewalls can have some detrimental handling. Also, the tires will be much heavier, and you ought to have an active tire-pressure monitor rather than the passive one the Aurora has. The passive system uses tire revolution to determine if a tire is low or flat, but run-flats won't change diameter much because the side-wall is so stiff. So it might not be able to tell the tire is flat (and you might not notice because the ride doesn't degrade much). The expense and balance problems inherent with mounting a tire-pressure monitor in the tires seem like a bit of a turn-off to me. So that is something to consider.

    If you want a tire that can handle impacts without blowing up, you might try looking at the weight ratings of the tires. The ones that can handle more weight will probably do better on sharp impacts like you've had problems with. However, it's possible that replacement MXV4's are more durable since you pointed out that oftentimes OEM tires are made more cheaply. I wonder if you could find out from Michelin or Olds if that's the case. I'd think Michelin would want to let you know so that you don't dismiss their MXV4's based on your OEM experience with them.

    Steve, would you replace the tires with something else this soon, though? How many miles have you put on them so far? I've only put about 11,000 on mine. They barely even look worn. It seems a shame to swap them out so soon, except I can understand given your experience with yours thus far. When you had the tire replaced at the dealer, they didn't grab another OEM one off some Aurora on the lot did they? It wasn't the replacement that blew up the second time, was it?
  • I put on some Dunlop Sport A2's when I put on my AAA chrome rims about 2000 miles ago. I have no complaints about these tires or rims. The Dunlops grip way better than the Goodyear GA's that where on there. The Dunlops I believe are the only tire in our size 235-60-16 with a AA traction rating. There classified as High Performance All-Season through tirerack. Got the Road hazard package with free rotations. I do have a slight vibration at certain speeds, Going to look into the road force balance, the Just Tires I bought them at, don't have one. They re-aligned and balanced twice for nothing and made it hardly noticeable. But I think I'll get them road forced anyways. I know the guys at the tire place and watched them do everything, so I know there not at fault. I don't have that glass smooth ride anymore. Amazing how touchy the balancing is on these cars. Road force here I come. What did you guys pay for yours?

    800wattAURORA
  • When you put your aftermarket radio in, did you lose the horn, too? I can live without the stereo/climate controls on the wheel, but the horn is essential. Especially to pass inspection.

    BTW, I lost a center cap on one of my wheels. Anybody ever have to buy one from the dealer? Are they as outrageously priced as I think?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Try a place like Hubcap Heaven first to replace it. I imagine the dealer will be a bit more costly.
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    Bob,
    After reading your post, it doesn't sound like the "Run Flat" tires will do.

    Weight ratings sound like the way to go.

    Will have to check in on OEM tires and replacements. I think I still have OEM tires that were replaced the orig OEM's.

    No, the tire was new on both tires.They had to get it from the Michelin Dealer the first time, (I saw the receipt) and the second one WAS at the Michelin Dealer where the first one was bought at.
    No, all of the tires blown were the ones from the factory and I have replaced with the same tires. Now, I have two tires with 11k, on tire with 8K, and one new one.
    I have the OEM tires on the front for now, and will be swaping with the replacement tires which are now on the back. I have the newer ones on the back because the Michelin dealer tech. said to put new ones on back to break them in properly. Something about setting up the groove tracking correctly at a non drive wheel.

    Have you tried a Local Hub Cap shop for your center insert?? Ebay???

    As always Bob, thanks for your help. Hope to have a service Manual by the end of the year.
    Steve
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    After doing the install of the aftermarket radio, no I did not loose my steering wheel horn, but yeah I did loose the climate controls and cruise controls on the steering wheel, sucks but, I'll live.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    I had it done at Discount Tires (where I bought my new MXV4's). They did not charge because I was having problems from the first mile. However, they said it usually costs $15/wheel. Some Goodyear places have them. They were talking $150 +/- for all four.

    Since I had it done, all is smooth as glass. The Aurora seems to be extremely sensitive all right.

    I've never heard of the OEM tires being of a different quality than the same tire purchased from a tire place.
  • fdionfdion Posts: 59
    Just a note to say that after going past 28,000 miles recently (and 2 years of ownership approaching in a few months), I still got a smile getting in my 2001 Aurora v8. I've been very satisfied with it. It's a shame that next june is the end of the Aurora. I guess it'll just make a better deal for me when I buy my second (my wife loves the car and that's a problem, she wants to do all the driving!).

    The car still looks great, easy to spot in the parking lot and still turns quite a bit of heads. I see people starring at the car all the time. Particularly at rest areas or in parking lots. I got some great pictures of the car on the blue ridge parkway, I'll try to scan them when I get them developped.

    Speaking of the blue ridge parkway, I've completed a few trips with the aurora including a 16 hours drive on my way back from Montreal, QC (I'm in the piedmont triad of North Carolina). I only saw 2 2k1+ Aurora while in Montreal and Quebec city, both were black. A lot more classics to be seen. Averaged 26 mpg on the highway. Around town it dropped quite a bit like always, but at least it stayed above 20.

    I've had an issue with the fan, turns out the papers were getting sucked out of the glovebox! I've also had to drop the car at the dealer for an issue with the steering rack. They got us a Maxima (at a GM dealer!?) What is funny (or sad) is that the service guys at the Olds/Caddy dealer were drooling over that new maxima. Both my wife and I were thoroughly unimpressed with this very plasticky car and were glad to get our Aurora back.

    I've also kept the car away from the dealer since then and haven't had any issue since then. I do the greasing, oil and filter (oil, air and dont forget the pollen filter too) changes and let a regular garage do the tire rotations.

    I've installed a hitch on the car. It's a "hidden hitch", seems like it was made for the Lesabre, so installation was a tight fit on the Aurora. The instructions are not that great so if any of you have any questions let me know.

    It's a class II with a receiver which is great for accessories. I've set up a platform, a bike rack etc. In fact I've been to Tennessee with me, my wife, our 2 girls, 4 bikes and the trunk full and didn't even feel (handling) or notice (weight) or hear anything and I almost forgot I had the bikes behind the car. Averaged about 25 mpg on that trip with AC on and 97 degrees outside.

    Ciao,
    Francois
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    fdion - Thanks for the post. But don't you know that "plasticy" is something only true of American cars?? What's the matter with you? You should know that such talk is blasphemy of a maxima or any Japanese car.

    I hear you. The Aurora is pretty incredible - especially at it's price point.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Thanks for the great post, and for sharing your impressions with us. It really is a great car. I've heard about that glove-box/HVAC problem. That's really bizarre/funny!
  • fdionfdion Posts: 59
    Yes the price point is definitely part of the equation. I can put a corsa and a lot more stuff on the car with the money I saved.

    RJS: It was an easy fix, but I must say I was a bit surprised to have that problem. Also, you might be interested in the post I submitted to the modifications page as I've noticed both of you are interested in performance. Do you know of any source for some used aurora aixbox? :)

    Francois
  • My 96 Aurora's parking light's flash like a disco strobe light when the car is parked there is also a clicking sound coming from the dash.I believe it is the lighting control module(body control module)Has anyone had this problem and what was the resolution?
  • My 97 does the same on occasion. The board suggested it may be heat/humidity and I believe that is the case. It does not seem consistent enough to mess with the relay in the dash yet- but if the battery ever gets drained much you can bet it's time to start tearing into it!
  • sinatra2sinatra2 Posts: 65
    Try taking off the panel below the steering column and spray some anti-grease solution too clean the contacts on the light switch. This should cure it. I have had the same problem and the dealer wanted $480.00CA for a switch and 2 hours to replace it. In 45 minites I had it solved myself using this method.
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    I had to buy 3 so far in the past 4 years. Of course you have to go get these at the dealer at around $40 bucks each.
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