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Oldsmobile Aurora

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Comments

  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    This past weekend I took a 845 mile trip with five people in a 2002 Caddie SLS Avis rental with abut 5,800 miles on it. My humble opinion is that this is a very good car. To start, let me be fair by saying that I did not do much driving with only me in the car.

    I found acceleration to be good and better than my 95. I got 24.5 avg mpg withthe air on for the whole trip. This was very impressive as it matched my Aurora mpg, but was achieved with regular gas verses using premium in the "Aa".

    I found the suspension on my Aa to be better than the SLS. However, this is not a fair statement on the SLS. My 95 has been modified with thicker Caddie sway bars, KYB struts and Z rated tires. If I were driving a stock 95, the SLS would have taken the Aa.

    The one BIG disappointment about eh car was the roar of the engine. The SLS was a wimp in this department. The 95 Classic is a true aROARa when I hit the gas. The SLS sound was not as deep or "masculine" sounding. I would take the sound of my Aa over the SLS any day of the week.

    Overall a good car. I would want to see the STS. However, I would not buy a Caddie before the new STS is out. The current STS looks dated. The STS looks even more "Olds" when you see it parked next to the CTS.

    Overall opinion, nice car and a worth a consideration if you are in the $45k territory. However, I would only lease the car because I would not want to be stuck with the old body style when the car is overhauled in 2 years. Its no Aa Classic whenit comes to looks.

    Henri
  • Is there a fuse for the horn in the Classic? It stopped working, and I thought I'd check that out before going to the dealer. The owners manual lists three fuse panels, none of which appears to have a fuse for the horn. Thanks.
  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    Look on ebay for center caps. I have gotten plenty off of there before. Usually about $10 each or so.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    yeah, I got them at a local hub cap place for $20 (when I still had the original wheels). Call around.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    My 98 Aurora has a new power steering pump. There has been a whine for quite a while and had gotten worse. Now the car is dead quite again. They broke the pulley and so it took longer. Service manager confirmed that the 3800 front wheel drives are much easier and cheaper to work on. They had to undo the radiator to get to the power steering. Told me that to do the A/C or generator they have to come up from the bottom. I think RWD is probably a much better design for larger cars (or at least V8s).
  • fdionfdion Posts: 59
    Anybody checked this link with their VIN?


    GM calibration lookup


    One of the item that comes up on mine is this:

    calid# 12573568, 12574745 new calibration to correct false setting of dtc p0327


    That means Knock Sensor (KS) 1 Circuit


    I wonder if that's not a way of saying, "the guy who assembled the car overtorqued the sensor, so let's make it less sensitive"...


    :)


    Francois

  • HAD WATER PUMP AND A/C COMPRESSOR REPLACED WED. STARTED LEAKING DEXCOOL ONE WEEK AGO. A/C WAS BLOWING WARM ON DRIVER'S SIDE AND COLD ON PASSENGER SIDE IN MAY. DEALER COULDN'T FIND ANY LEAKS AND PUT DYE IN SYSTEM. STARTED TO BLOW WARM LAST WEEK AGAIN. DEALER STILL COULDN'T FIND LEAK SO THEY REPLACED THE COMPRESSOR. NOW HAVE 87610 MILES. BILL WAS $1531 OF WHICH I PAID $237 FOR HOSES,BELTS, ETC. WARRANTY GOLD PAID THE REST. STILL LIKE MY CAR. TOOK OFF OLD WINDOW TINT LAST WEEK, WAS REALLY CRAPPY. ANY SUGGESTION FOR REPLACEMENT? REALLY NEED TINT HERE IN FLA.
  • dlcleavdlcleav Posts: 40
    After 5 tries with the A/C compressor combined with the incessant "chirping" noise, I sold my '98 Diamond White Classic. This was really tough to do since this was my second Aurora. I just couldn't chance any further repair bills (I neglected to purchase the extended warranty) and the inability of the service techs to diagnose and repair the car. I really went the opposite direction this time and purchased an '02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland. Thanks for all the tips provided on this site. Dave
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Once agin we have had the "What do I look for in buying an Aurora?" question asked (see accleration board).

    Pat, this question has been ansered so many times in the past. I have a suggestion.

    There was a very detailed answer given to thsi question a coupe of posts back along with some supplementary posts that followed that one big one. Sorry I don't rememeber who actually made the detailed posting. Can we copy or move that answer to the "What did you Pay" board? that thread does not get a lot of posts and it would be a lot easier to refer folks to that posting on that board rather than to constantly repeat it here or elsewhere.

    What do you think Pat/Gang???

    Henri
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    I posted the quite-extensive list, a hundred or more messages back, and there was some ensuing discussion. I can't find it without scrolling back through all of these messages, though. One thing these boards could use is a much, much better search engine (i.e. if I wanted to find "force balance" going back through almost 3500 messages, it would take me all day, and I don't have the attention span, much less the time, to do this :-)

    --Robert
  • shifty4shifty4 Posts: 53
    One of the posts you are looking for is 3289. When I find a really useful post such as this I print it off. Then the only problem is finding it in the piles of paper in my office.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Henri, that's a good idea -- if you (or anyone else) can find the message(s), all you have to do is copy and paste it/them into that discussion.

    :)
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I looked at your posting #3289 and it refers to JonB's posting which I think is the one I am talking about. I remember adding things to the list after I read it. I guess the search continues for the "Buying the Aurora" post.

    Henri
  • ewtewt Posts: 127
    "Told me that to do the A/C or generator they have to come up from the bottom. I think RWD is probably a much better design for larger cars (or at least V8s). "

    I did the alternator on my former 96, and it was no fun at all. It probably took me about 5 hours with air tools (although they weren't that helpful since most of the fasteners can't be reached with them). Several of the bolts are very difficult to get to. There was one bolt behind the exhaust manifold I couldn't get back in because I could just barely get a wrench on it to remove it. The guy at the parts counter told me their techs drop the whole motor/tranny/front subframe to swap them.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I am heavily leaning towards the Yokohamas Z rated tires.

    Any information on how these perform in the snow and rain.
  • hardestyhardesty Posts: 166
    Almost too late, but the powertrain site has finally been updated to include specs for the current (and final) version of the 4.0L V8 motor. They have a very nice photo of the engine and the best view of the HP/torque curve yet. Looks like the new 4.0 produces about 190 lb-ft at idle! This may explain why published times for 0-30mph are 3.0 seconds. From my expierence, the one thing that slows the 0-60 time is the 1-2 shift (naturally tuned for comfort, not performance). Maybe if GM had improved on the shift select button instead of deleting it, we would have seen reviewers eyes open up.

    This new curve does not drop off as much at the high end as previous views seemed to, but the view is still somewhat crude.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    That's the same power curve they sent me. I guess they added the Aurora V8 since they seem to have redone the site. I don't know why the hell they didn't put it there back when Olds was still in business, though. I'm glad to see they didn't group it in with the Northstar.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    Powertrain's site was for model year 2000 before, and since the Aurora was not in production in model year 2000, they did not include it. I would guess that the next update will take another 2 years (2004 model year - just as the 2005 models are about to go on sale?).
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I am leaning back towards the Hankook "T" rated tires. Is a T rating better than an H?
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    is about as slow as there is. ~110 MPH max
  • fdionfdion Posts: 59
    You didn't say how much you wanted to spend.

    On the 16" rims I'd go with some Pirelli P6000 (not veloce, just P6000) ZR, tire rack has them on special at $86 each, altough I think the Michelin MXV4+ are really the best in that price range but in H rated. More comfortable and silent than the P6000.

    If you want the best performance, get some 17" rims or 18" rims, and put some Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, no question. They will set you back > $200 each tough.

    Francois
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    afterall. Based on the reviews of the Michelins I saw on Tire rack I dont think I can justify the additional costs of the HR or Z rated tires from Michelin.

    I am very much interested in snow traction and nuting was there about the Michelins. I could get 2 sets of Yokos for each set of michs.

    Next stop might be the ETD tire store.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    afterall. Based on the reviews of the Michelins I saw on Tire rack I dont think I can justify the additional costs of the HR or Z rated tires from Michelin.

    I am very much interested in snow traction and nuting was there about the Michelins. I could get 2 sets of Yokos for each set of michs.

    Next stop might be the ETD tire store.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Once again when I turn my key the car pauses for about 1 second and then starts. I had replaced the starter only to have the problem come back after a month.

    I went to the dealer and her confirmed my worst nightmare. It will not be until the car does not start at all, that they will be able to find the problem.

    I am taking a trip that requires a ferry ride. Any bets that the car won't start when it comes time to take it off the ferry???

    I figure that after getting stuck in the Holland tunnel under the Hudson River, the ferry is the next logical water crossing debacle.
  • Just installed the wood dash kit on my classic. Looks great. A little darker than OEM, but not much. I have two pieces left, however. They're for controls where the power door lock, lumbar, and heated seats are located. The kit came with a set for without heated seats, which are the ones I used.

    Anyway, just thought someone might want the ones that fit the optional heated seat controls. E-mail me if you do. I'll drop them in the mail.

    badboy@psu.edu
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Sorry Henri, I've got no advice for you. But your post about starting did remind me of some observations I've made. A few times when I've started the car, I've just barely turned the key to the "start" position and let it go. When I've done it, it wasn't intentional (I flubbed it), and I expected the car to just crank a little and not catch. However, what I've noticed is that the car cranks the same amount it always does and starts right up. It cranked for more than I held it. I guess that there is some computer interaction in turning the starter, and not like in most cars where the starter is just hooked to the ignition cylinder. It just happens that usually the car stops cranking at the same time I release the key from the "start" position. I also tested the starter-override thing by trying to start the car once it was already running (this was on purpose, not a flub) and it worked. However, the dash goes dark and then all the lights come on again just like it does when you first start it. But there is no starter grinding or anything. The override could just be some interrupt between the ignition cylinder and the starter, but I guess it makes more sense to just have the computer handle it all. So you just tell the computer you want the car started by twisting the key, and it does it all for you. Pretty neat...

    Also, I really love the way the car tucks in at the center of the sides. It isn't that noticeable when you look at the sheetmetal on my car (perhaps because of my particular color), but in a parking lot you can see the reflection of the white lines curve in a gentle arc. It really looks awesome. There are really a lot of subtle curves to the car that together make it really attractive, and I love how they work with the hard creases in the body.

    I've really been appreciating the exhaust note lately. It sounds so awesome. I've been thinking again about the Corsa, and I hope it doesn't turn it into too much of a muscle-car sound. I've been listening to that Caddy clip more, and it is hard to distinguish it from some of the Camaro and Corvette clips. I guess I'll just have to try it, though. That's the only way I'll really know.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I dont know if its an obsession but every time we talk about the car's body, it sounds like we are describing a woman. I would say a man's body but aside from Pat, there are no women on this board.

    Just an observation.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Hey Francois, have you ever hooked up the OBD-II scanner while the car does its cold-start routine? You know, where it runs at about 1200 rpm for about 20 seconds to warm up the cats and then the idle drops very intentionally to about 750-800 rpm? Aurora5000 has noticed that is seems like the car is misfiring during that time, and I've noticed that the engine definitely runs rougher and it vibrates more. Once it drops to the normal idle, it's smooth as silk. I wonder if it intentionally misfires a cylinder to put fuel in the exhaust or something to warm up the cats quicker? Although, intuitively I'd think fuel in the exhaust would cool the cats since it would basically spray them down. I wouldn't think it would burn in the exhaust since the exhaust isn't hot yet. But I have no idea. Just wondering if you've shed any light on it with the OBD-II.
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