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Oldsmobile Aurora



  • mindseye97mindseye97 Posts: 25
    Question- Does anyone recall the issue of the relay clicking in the dash? I thought it was posted a while back but I can't find it. My '97 has started clicking sometimes when running or even just listening to the radio. Nothing seems to be shutting off so the function is not abvious to me but it sure is annoying...
  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    My 98 experienced a clicking that turned out to be a relay for the lights. When it was clicking if you stood in front of the car with the lights off, you could see them flashing it was more prevalant in warm humid weather. I don't remember where the relay turned out to be. But the caddy dealer near me knew right where to point me when I described the problem so it must be somewhat common!
  • mindseye97mindseye97 Posts: 25
    Thanks mike98c- Next time I hear the clicking from up under the steering column I will check the lights out. One things for sure it is VERY hot and humid around here this week, something we are not used to in Michigan.
  • dlcleavdlcleav Posts: 40
    My continued problem isn't really a relay "clicking" sound but a very annoying "chirping" sound that occurs without reason. It's almost driven me to trade the '98 Classic but then I get a couple of days where the noise is gone and the Classic is back to normal.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    if locking lug nuts are as effective when they are so loose they can be unscrewed with your fingers? I guess at least you found out they don't screw them on Garnes. Imagine people who don't ask or know better. Heck, if they were loose they would probably have fallen off eventually. I don't understand why torquing the lug nuts properly is such a difficult thing for tire places. I mean, imagine a place that specialized in oil changes but they said they don't bother to tighten up the drain plug because the heads are different sizes and don't fit in the one socket they use. It's ridiculous. I too always loosen and re-tighten my wheel lugs after a visit to the shop. I should get one of those clicking torque wrenches some day. I have one with the long pointer that runs the length of the wrench.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    RJS - you should see these guys - they just fly. That's basically the reason. It's too much time to torque it nice and slow.

    I've heard that the kind of wrench you have is pretty accurate. It's maybe not as convenient, but good. If you get the click type, spend some money and get a good one.
  • hardestyhardesty Posts: 166
    of both worlds. KBB has info on the 2003 Aurora. Since it is back to only having the 4.0L V8, you can now order it without all of the options that pushed up the price. Base invoice is now under $32,000, and rebates should bring it under the magic $30,000 tag. Also, it looks like the Bose and Nav are available together now. The base includes the PCS. A fully optioned 2003 stickers lower than it did in 2002, and invoice for everything is just over $36,000, so you can probably get one home (taxed, titled, and rebated) for under $35,000. I would be hard pressed to think of a better way to say goodbye to Oldsmobile than to make it the best bang for the buck in its class. Of course, those who care about short term resale value need not apply. I just passed 5,000 miles on the 2002 4.0L, and still love the car. No problems at all, no oil consumption, no vibrations at any (<100mph) speed.

    I've been away for a while, just had neck surgery. Two disks removed, three vertebrae fused (C5,C6, & C7), and a little less hip bone (they use a piece of it in the neck). I'll be off work for a while, so I'll check in more often.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I noticed last year that intellichoice had info about the 2002 and the new nav system way before I got any info from GM. Where do they get this info from? The engine still makes 250hp, so nothing on the 2003 would seem to convince me to buy another. The red has a different name (bordeaux instead of cherry). I wonder if it's basically the same color though. I see they pared down the interior color choices. I've never seen one in anything but neutral or gray.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I was looking at the dealer book for the new aurora. While I am still not "Intrigued" with the outside of the car, the inside dash is very clean compared to the classic. In this case, I think less is more.

    The car's delay in starting is starting to become more pronounced. I am thinking that it does not make much sense to buy a 99 unless I want to get rid of the 95 (and I don't). Now if I am gonna own two Auroras, it might as well be the two versions.

    But can I really justify a 250hp Aurora over a Caddie?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Henry - if total power is most important then go with the Caddy. But the Aurora is every bit as refined mechanically. Personally I love the looks of the classic and the new Aurora. The new one is still very distinct with the bulging fenders that are chiseled. The front is more aggressive looking too. The interior is a little better than the classic. It's a great looking car. The STS - well it's not bad at all, but the Aurora is pretty nicely styled inside and out. You can't beat the wrap around interior - and that's what YOU look at all the time when driving. It seems to be quite a deal compared to a Caddy too.

    hardesty - those numbers are incredible. That is really a lot of car in 2003 for that money. Nothing even comes close to offering so much. I hope everything works out for you. Doctors orders - keep your toe out of the Aurora for awhile.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573

    Thank you for your advice. I have ordered the parts; now I need to locate the tool. I'm not in a hurry. My coolant is past due to be replaced and I figure that when I open up the cooling system I might as well replace the water pump and thermostat as preventive maintenance (79,000 miles).
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    I frequently see the "NorthStar Water Pump Tool" up for auction on eBay Motors for $29.95 or so. I don't know for sure, but, for a lot of the things on eBay, you can probably get it for less locally (I see a pair Bosch wiper blades up for auction for $20 + s/h; the same blades are available at my local AutoZone for $8 ea. :-)

  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    My water pump started leaking last winter. The sevice manager said that some of them go after 25,000 miles while others have lasted over 100,000 miles. Some of the ones replaced early have been replaced again.

    The point is that I wouldn't replace it unless it's leaking.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    I'm going to look at a '99 with only 18xxx miles at a Cadillac dealer. Seems almost too good to be true. Any advice on this one? Also, color listed on car is "Cashmere". Any guesses what color this is in Aurora talk? The salesman made me think it is bronzemist or tan. Is there something I can ask him to look at to confirm which color it is?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Its where I would start
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    Is there a color code listed somewhere on the car he could use to confirm the color to me? (This is a long distance deal)
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I was laughing my butt off when I read your post!!

    JonBGood, the color code is listed on the build sheet in the trunk. The number code for the paint color should be in the trunk. Here are the codes for the ones that sound like your color:

    Gold 60U
    Bronze Mist 76U
    Champagne 83U
    Copper Mist 88U
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    Dealer confirmed color code is 76u. Anybody have any problems with their bronze mist paint?
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