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Oldsmobile Aurora



  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Man, that's pretty strange. I haven't had any probs with my tires. With about 11,000 miles on them, they appear to be wearing just fine. I could be a little more understanding of the front blow-out, though, because of the impressive amount of weight on them. There is about 1200 lbs on each front tire without the driver (who's weight is probably mostly on the fronts too). Whereas the rears only have about 700 lbs on them. I usually put an extra pound of pressure in the fronts (even though the factory recommendation is the same front to rear). Plus, I fill/check them in the garage, so that probably adds about a pound to each tire once they are outside (at least in the summer). So mine are essentially at 32/31psi F/R. However, that might actually increase the likelyhood of a blow-out from impact. Do you keep the pressures up higher than the recommendation?

    I guess I'll start making sure my spare is in good condition. Sorry to hear about your second blow-out... I can imagine it would be frustrating. Why is it $200? They are only $135 from the Tire Rack. With shipping and install I'd think $170 max. Plus, doesn't your road-hazard warranty cover it? If not, then you hardly need to have it. It seems your most common tire problem isn't covered by it...
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    RJS- I talked with Michelin and they sent me to a local dealer that does their warranty work. I called the tire dealer and he said that in most cases on new cars, the have a 15K grace period where they can at the Michelin's rep's OK give a replacement. We will see. More tomorrow.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    I still have the original Goodyear Eagle GA's (no autobahn) on my 98 Aurora. They have 50,000 except for the one the went flat and was replaced with a used Eagle GA. At 40,000 I expected to get to 50,000 and now I expect to get close to 60,000 or at least 55,000. I have not had any balance problems. Warped rotors are another matter though.
  • I know it's trivial, but I REALLY DON'T LIKE the stupid sound of the turn signal in my Classic. It sounds soooooo cheap. Does anyone know if there's a way to modify it to sounds differently?
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    mariposarosada - I've never heard of a turn signal sound being described as cheap - oh wait, yes, I'm sure there is at least one car review that criticized the sound of it along with the plasticy stuff.

    Try finding a Lexus in the bone yard and use their signal click sounder/whatever. I'm sure they have the definitive luxury sound for the turn signal. You know, that ES isn't just a fancy Camry, it's got the ultimate turn signal sound.

    If you get one from an LS, well that signal sound comes through the Levinson stereo system. It's so good you might leave it on for hours as you cruise down the highway on purpose. Ever see a Lexus with the signal on while cruising? - well that's why.

    Too bad GM can't get this right.

    Sorry - no offence. Just goofing. Couldn't resist.
  • rhale2rhale2 Posts: 8
    I removed my turn signal can, wrapped it in foam tape and put it back into the clip that holds it under the dash. It muffles the sound quite nicely.
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    RJS- I called Michelin 800 # and they referred me to a authorized dealer here in OKC.
    They adjusted out the tire for me. My part of the tire purchase being around $40. Then I had the front end re-aligned at a discount rate and the whole tab for today was $75.
    If I had just bought the new tire by itself, it would have been around $140 plus all of the ad-ons that go with the tire purchase, so you were right on your estimate of costs.
    I sent THAT bill into my "Road Hazard" insurance place for a full refund. The dealership was just going to replace the tire at NO pro-rating around $160, plus the other stuff.
    I also read on one of the other "Edmunds Boards" that most all new tires on new cars are different from the Replacement tires you buy at all of the tire dealers across the nation. The factory tires are built to a cheaper specs. sheet. The post said to go to the TPC code on the tire and look there.

    In answer to your questions: I run 30-31psi in tires. I check it weekly in the early morning hours before I drive it.

    Thanks for your help,
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    Man, my security light came on, on my dash. I hope is nothing serious. The weird thing is that it just stays on, then after I finish driving and I park, then I'll come back turn on the car and the light will be off by now. Weird.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    Man, my security light came on, on my dash. I hope is nothing serious. The weird thing is that it just stays on, then after I finish driving and I park, then I'll come back turn on the car and the light will be off by now. Weird.
  • I hear the Dunlops are good.

    FJK - I thought I had a warped rotor the way the car was thumping in the front. Either that or a bad cv joint. When I got new tires "Toyo's" and had them force balanced the other day all of the shaking, thumping and vibrations went away. Tires in balance and not internally breaking apart make a HUGE difference. My guess would be that the original tires you have are in need of replacement. Garnes posted about tires he had once on another car that the tread lasted forever.

    javidogg - The security light always comes on and flashes when you turn off the car, nothing to worry about.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    If the security light comes on when drivng, it means the the anti theft system has failed (no longr operating) for some reason. This has happnd to me and the fix hase been to use the reset button on the alrm system.

    Hope this helps.

    I once entered the car, sat down and noticed taht the security light was on even though the system was suppose to be off since I just opened the car wth the clicker.

    the car would not let me start it or do anything.
    I had to press the rest button a few times before the system reset and allowed me to start the car.

    Hope this helps

  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    The one thing i did not mention is that my Toyos have all dry rotted. I understand that the tread may be low, but I do not understand why the tires dry roted after only two years of use.

    I hope you have btter luck with them than I did.
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    We both have 95's. Where is the reset button you are talking about for the security light? On the tire subject, I have the autobahn pkg and after my original mv4's, I tried a brand called ziex from NTB and everyone commented how wide the tires looked, but they only lasted a couple of years. I am now trying the Michelin symetry tires for the past 16k miles which are rated at 99 mph instead of the v rated tires which are much higher and I like the ride much better than my previous two sets.
  • sinatra2sinatra2 Posts: 65
    I have a 96 and I find the security light can be reset by turning off the ignition and re starting or pressing the panic button "on and off" on the key fob. It also goes off on it's own after about 5 to 10 minutes of driving. My light does not come on that often but the wiring on our classics is very complex as everything is integrated. Ignition,interior lights,exterior lights,horn and door locks are all connected to the alarm system in some way. For a while at night while driving I had an intermittent problem with my interior lights going on when I pressed the brake pedal. That problem was eliminated when I cleaned the manual light switch connections on the steering wheel. Great auto though, even though I thought it was haunted for a while
  • Does GM use a used Pepsi or Coke can for this? Seriously. Where is this thing? Under the dash you say, but where exactly? I might try the foam thing. Either that, or an air horn. he he.

    BTW, does the Aurora (Classic) yell at you if you leave the signal on for a while? I'd try it out myself, but would feel kind of stupid. Maybe I'll wear a blue wig.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    If the turn signal is on too long, the car makes the same sound it makes if you leave your keys in the ignition and open the driver side door.

    the car "bings' it does not yell.

    The Aurora is no street brawler (unless you try to take it at a red light). ;)
  • larryfllarryfl Posts: 214
    Gisom: I have a '95 also. According to my owners manual we don't have a security alarm in our cars. I think Henry's was added. My security light did go on one day and stayed on throughout the day as I stopped and started the car (engine) several times in my normal driving routine. Owners manual said that signaled a failure in the SecureKey system. Car would still start but not have the secure key protection. The next day, the light was off and hasn't been on since. (I love it when the car fixes itself!).

    I have left my turn signal on a few times and the DIC alerts you to it with a chime and message: 'Turn Signal On?'.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    My alram is the same GM alrm tat comes from the factory. However, judging from prior feedback I received on the topic, the alarm was added by the dealer. this seems to make sense since I had to take the car back to the dealer to have the alrm serviced. The dealer had hooked up the alarm so that if the alarm sounded, you could press the unlock button on the door to shut the alarm off. I had that changed.

    I would suggest you ask the dealer where the reset button is for the alarm. Hopefully a servce tech at the dealer would know. Mine is underneth the dash board directly beneath the steering column.

    I don't know if it will be in the same place for you. In any event , it is ai little red button.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    You realize that you just have to do something about the sound of the turn signal click.

    Also, if you want to change the car's chime to a Westminster chime, consider yourself equally obsessed.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    I only notice the vibration when I step on the brakes and then mainly at higher speeds. So I suspect that the problem is a warped rotor. They were turned once after the front calipers "hung" and burn up the front pads. So, my guess is the front rotors were "toasted".
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