Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Oldsmobile Aurora

13940424445187

Comments

  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    I like to change the cupholders in my 95 classic. Has anyone tried to do it?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    The good thing is that the updated cupholders actually work! I actually have the part siting in my house. I got an update from another source and never used the one I brought.
  • I have a 97 A and am having some difficulties:

    1. Dual Aircondition only cooling on passenger side and back seat (South Texas heat is unbearable without A/C).
    2. Fuel gage is going up and down from full to empty (Randomly - Never know how much fuel I have . . .)
    3. Headlights are blinking on and off - had to take the Headlight breaker and fuse out in order make it stop. Found black box located under dash, and replaced that, but it did not fix. Hope it is not a switch ($363 just for the part)

    Like my A, but am looking forward to buying a larger vehicle (i.e. Ford Expedition possibly).

    Any feedback would be great.

    Thanks, Bib Tex
  • i hope i can help clarify a few questions about the aurora and the Northstar engines.
    both the Aurora V8 and the Northstar V8 use the same stroke. the difference between the two is the bore of the cylinders, which is 89mm on the Aurora, and 93mm on the Caddie motor. so it's not necessary to change the crank, just bore out the Aurora by 4mm and you'd have yourself a 4.6L engine.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I agree with you. Howevr, the motorTrend guy was positive that GM changed the liter size by increasing the stroke no the bore. However, I had been operating under the understanding that GM used metal sleeves to decrease the Bore size on the Aurora engine.

    I would suggest that you verify by part number the crank shaft between the two engines to eliminate the inrease in stroke possiblity.

    I was also told that it is not a simple thing to just bore out the 4.0 because f how the metal sleeves were used. Whether the source was saying it was the bore or the storke, each said that I am better off finding a wrecked seville and puting the engine in the Aurora.

    Not withstanding the "fuzzy numbers", I hope it is a little clearer now.
  • I, too, am interested in more power. I have thought about swapping in the 4.6l Northstar and have followed the lack of knowledge about what will or will not work.

    First, the fuzzy numbers: from car mags I have the stroke of both Olds and Caddie as 84.0mm. Bore for the Aurora is 87.0mm while the Northstar is 93.0mm. Know nothing about stated problem of boring out the Aurora. All three engines have 10.3-to-1 compression ratio and require 91-octane gasoline.

    I know of two versions of the 4.6-liter Northstar engine: 275hp in the Seville SLS and 300hp in the Seville STS; I think the deVille has the same 300hp as STS. I have tried without success to find out what makes the difference between the Cad 275hp and 300hp engines. If you compare them to the Aurora engine by dividing horsepower by displacement, the Aurora fits neatly in the middle -- 60hp/l, 63hp/l and 66hp/l. Not a significant difference and therefore no technology in the higher horsepower Cad engines to benefit our Auroras.

    I suspect that swapping either Northstar for a good Aurora engine is a very expensive way to increase power (even assuming it can be done without or compensating for the suggested engine mount problems). A free-flowing exhaust may be a better power-per-dollar modification. Does anyone have real experience?

    I've also chased the elusive computer performance chip without success. Anyone had a positive experience?

    Has anyone experimented with cold-air / ram-air induction? I haven't found any manufacturer that lists anything for Aurora -- except K&N replacement for the stock air filter, which I installed first week I owned my Aurora. Also, I removed that appendage to the air intake, which I assume to be a silencer (I have never considered quietness a virtue in my cars). Made a plug out of pvc tubing parts to plug the hole. Recently I inserted a remote thermometer (inexpensive Radio Shack) to measure the intake air temperature. WOW -- in stop-and-go traffic the temperature of the intake air is 30 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit over what the instrument panel indicator shows for outside temperature. If stopped on a hot day, the thermometer goes over 156 degrees F, which is the maximum it will indicate.

    I'm thinking of adding a duct under the bumper on the driver side to force outside air toward the stock air box. I'm also eying the driver side fog light opening as an excellent air intake. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    BTW, if you haven't figured it out by now, I'm trying to relive the glory days of the 4-4-2 W30s of the late '60s and '70.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    I have been following the discussion on improving the Aurora performance. I've got a bunch of comments - here goes:

    1. The caddy 4.6 and the Aurora 4.0 are virtually the same except for the bore. All the literature confirms this. The comment about just boring the cylinders out a bit more might be valid. The block is the same I believe. I'm not sure about any changes to the heads or if those are the same as well. I'd definitely upgrade the air intake to feed the bigger cylinders and use the caddy exhaust system if it different from the Aurora. I think a lot of the small differences in the various northstar HP/cubic inch output is due to differences in the air intake, exhaust, and small changes in the computer tuning. They do that on purpose to make it worth spending the money for the higher performance model. I've also read car reviews that noted a 5 HP increase over last year's model from an improvement to the air intake box.

    2. Superchips has or at one time did have a performance chip for the 1995 Aurora. It supposedly added 20 HP and 33 to the torque. However, starting in 1996, GM changed the computer (OBD1 it is called I think) such that replacing a chip is not possible. Instead, a "microtuner" is needed to download the stock program and replace it with the performance program. You can go back to stock at any time. Unfortunately, they have not come up with a microtuner for the northstar engines. I've talked to 3 people there and 2 said that it is being looked into, but is a low priority and one said no-way. With the increasing number of northstars out there each year, I hope it happens. What all of us Aurora owners (and Caddy too)can do, is call superchips and show some interest. It might help. The number is 407-260-0838. Keep checking back every 3 months too. Call! They have these things for other GM cars with the "newer" computer. They even make these things for Ford Escorts for crying out loud, so you would think these wonderful cars would be considered.

    3. I put the K&N in and I think it is a little better. No computer problems. I swear I'm getting about 2 mpg better on the highway with it. They confidently claim a 2 to 4% HP increase, so you are getting 5 to 10 more HP. That's great for less than $100.

    4. RSM racing (rsmracing.com) makes an air induction system for the Aurora. It is basically a K&N FIPK kit (if K&N were to make an induction system for the Aurora). It replaces the air box and utilizes a K&N cone filter on the end of the induction pipe. The air box on the Aurora is a piece of crap in my opinion. The air enters the box through a few small ports and is basically pushed through one end of the panel filter thus limiting the full use of the filter area. I think the induction system system would help greatly. Maybe 15 HP. (Crankandchrome.com did an air induction on a 2000 Corvette and it added 21 HP at the rear wheels on the dyno! - that's about 28 HP at the engine!) On the Aurora, it is supposed to pull air up through the opening left my the removed air box.

    5. RSM also makes a performance exhaust system including a supersized catalytic converter. However, a seemingly knowledgable guy at the dealer said that reducing the back pressure can sometimes "evacuate" the cylinders prematurely and you could lower the low-end torque output. High-end HP would go up, but you may be slower off the line. Who knows, RSM did not dyno test this individual improvement to see what happens. They told me they dyno'd an Aurora with the air induction, the larger throttle body and the exhaust, and it put out 289 HP. Call a Caddy dealer and ask about the exhaust system. How is it different from the Aurora?

    6. I think I'll do the air induction from RSM and hope for the chip someday. The two together should give you 280 to 285 HP and over 300 torque. That should just about match any Lexus 400 and if you have an Autobahn, you will probably be quicker. Of course you always look better in a beautiful Aurora. Make sure you tell the chip people of any other improvements you have made so they can custom tune it - otherwise it won't work right. Let's hope for the chip/microtuner.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Hey BLK97Aurora.

    I've got a black 98. Go over it with Meguires mirror glaze No.7. Rub it in good. Then use their gold class liquid wax. It will look like a wet piece of candy. If you work the glaze in good, it will remove all the micro scratches that accumulate and make it look hazy - especially a black car.

    Your thing about the air temp was really cool. Thanks. When stopped, it doesn't matter, but I hope those temps went down when you started moving.

    My only concern with the RSM racing air induction is that you would pull too much hot air off the engine. RSM says no, and I guess it depends on how much or how well air will flow up the opening created by the removed air box. K&N told me you drop 1 HP per 40 degrees of air temp. The air temp is a concern of mine with that air induction system.
  • zinc1zinc1 Posts: 133
    Don't have one, but Jetchip.com says they're offering a PCM for the 96-99 Aurora. Costs $259.99. Power increase at wheels is estimated at 12-14hp. The part number is 68003.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Thanks Rex, I knew my Aurora missed me.

    OH where did it go?
    When I need it on the road
    And the perfect story ended at the SHOP

    I thought we would drive forever
    but warranty gold kept us apart

    Left hanging on
    On the chance my repair would be approved

    How could a car repair
    Turn out to take sooo looooong

    ---- Thank you Gibb brothers (Bee Gees)
    For those of you not old enough to remember, think Saturday Night Fever soundtrack
  • s2261s2261 Posts: 14
    We are thinking of trading our classic for something new(er). Ours is a 98/Autobahn. It has 63k on it. I'm thinking about a 2K1. To those who have driven both: Will I like it? I don't need to squeal tires or race. I just like to drive it. I'm thinking the 3.5 will be adequate. I drove one this weekend and it was nice. The interior is very comfortable. Thoughts?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I thought the back pressure issue was more an issue with 4 cylinder engines. I thought the V8's did not have this problem. From what I remember (it has been awhile), the Aurora is not a 0-60mph car to begin with. I would not want to do anything to slow it down further. Somehow, 0-60 in 10.3 secs does not sound appealing.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    18) You carry a micrometer to the Cadillac Drive Competition so that you can crawl under the cars and measure the thickness of the Caddie Seville sway bars compared to the ones on your 99 Classic. (This was not Me but someone I met outside in the parking lot that drove his Aurora to the Drive Off.)
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Yes, I know his name but he said he may check out our little board here and I did not want him to see us talking about him already. :-)
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Henry - you have a good point. The dealer did mention that lowering the back pressure lowered the low-end torque with a honda accord. Trouble is, that RSM exhaust system was not specifically dyno'd. It replaces the 2 1/2" converter with a 3" one - that's a big change. Who knows what it really does. $900 is a lot of money for something that might possibly hurt performance. I want to see the dyno curves. I'm really curious what the caddy has.
  • Hey all,

    I'm back...Got my AroarA here in Portland now and I am enjoying the summer months here. So far, no trouble. Maybe a little trouble starting when it's warm...Any ideas?

    Zinc---You post those photos on your site yet?
  • vwbus:
    sounds to me like it's your fuel pressure regulator.

    to the guys wanting more performance:

    i'm enjoying the conversation, and i'm thinking of going the RSM air induction route myself. i work in the sheet metal department of a decent sized manufacturing shop, and i am planning on fabricating a ram-air scoop to pull cold fresh air from underneath and funnel it right to that huge K&N filter. with the correct venturi shape,and alot of luck i will gain a few psi of boost to feed those 8 cylinders.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    BLK97Aurora - If you ever decide to replace the air box with the RSM racing induction system, I'd be VERY interested in what that remote temperature reading is in the vicinity of the filter.

    Autobahn95 - your underneath scoop idea sounds really interesting. If you do it and you are really happy with it, I'd be interested in implementing your system on my Aurora. If you have the 95, call superchips. They might have the chip for your car. It's listed on their web site. I think you have to send them your chip and get a rental car. If you call, let us know what happens. Remember to tell them you are ramming some air so they can custom tune it.
  • Greg,

    Thanks for your interest and support.

    Air box temp goes down very slowly; that's why I want to do something about it. Part of the slow reduction in temperature after getting up to speed after sitting in traffic may have to do with my measuring system. Still, when you want to beat that 5.0, 528, or Lxs at a light, every little bit helps. I have a vague memory of reading 1% loss in hp per 10 degree (F or C?) rise in temp; I'll have to look into this more.

    I appreciate your excellent information on performance mods. I will contact Superchips.

    Peter Lute,

    I am interested in your ideas about air scoops. My initial thought was to keep the stock air box and to feed it cooler, higher pressure air from under the bumper or through the fog light opening. Hood scoops are not an option for me. Maybe replacing the stock air box is good idea. I want to be careful about not picking up water.
  • Thanks for all of your comments on my first posting.

    Little things that I love about my Aurora:

    - Carpets are so plush and even thou my car has 93K, they look almost new

    - Seats so comfortable that in trips up to 3 hours I still feel comfortable. I'm about to try nearly 6 hours - Bergen COunty, NJ to Montgomery Co, MD. At one time (early-to-mid 60s) I used to be able to make it in 4.5 hours.

    - A trunk which has those out-of-the-way hinges. There appear to be 2 hydraulic and one mechanical, per side.

    - That temperature outside is useful and very accurate 98% of the time. I impress friends when I drive by a bank which displays the temperature and then display mine and its only one degree different!

    - The steering wheel is the best I have put my hands on. When I test drive a 94 SLS, it wasn't nearly as nice even though they were both padded leather.

    - Seat adjustments on the door (Instead of at the side of the seat cushion.

    - The performance button the the side of the shift lever - when pushed in and activated - gives me just the right amount of 'rev' before shifting.

    Now, a comment on the rear window. I can't see what people are complaining about. I work with lenses, optics and have a trained eye (in my job)and if a magazine article hadn't pointed it out, I wouldn't have noticed. It is very subtle compared to if there were no glass in it!

    Oops, let me ask you about this problem. My gas cap latch won't open unless I go into the trunk. I had it replaced 9 months ago! Suggestions??

    Aurorabill (4 days til countdown)
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    has fallen off due to this 95 degree heat. I cannot remove the little plate to replace back on the window. This mirror does not have a little set screw to take plate off of mirror like I am use to seeing. Any suggestions?
  • rocket95rocket95 Posts: 13
    Aurorabill

    I recently had a problem with fuel filler door not opening on my '95. It was due to excessive side load being applied by the fuel filler door hinge spring. Small clip type spring located on the left side of the filler door. By compressing the spring a tiny bit (bending)- it exerted less pressure on the selenoid plunger and the door opened okay. If you had rather use the scientific approach. I think the specs call for a 10mm gap (+/- 0.5mm). This all assumes that your selenoid is working.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    The dealer tells me that thte warranty goal adjuster came and looked at the disassembled transmission. The dealer described it as a pleasant experience in which the adjuster agreeed with the dealership as to what needs to be done to fix the car. the dealership can not tell me what caused the problem because it is a question of what cause what to fail first (the old chicken or the egg question). However Mr. Zinc can rest assured that it was not my tendency for Warp-speed accelerations that caused the problem. So sir, feel free to continue to use only two gas pedal levels (100% up or 100% down).

    No matter what happens now, the earliest I might get her back is Monday of next week.
    Seven weeks with any Aurora. Okay, I'll admit it. I have restored to looking at pictures in magazine and the dealer brouchers I have. I have not done this since I was a teenager.

    Is it a ray of sunshine?
    a light at the end of the tunnel?
    a train coming the other way??

    Tune in next week boys and girls

    Same Bat Time
    Same Bat station
    Same Bat Board . . .
    (WHAM! . . . POW! . . . ZAP!)
  • zinc1zinc1 Posts: 133
    Congratulations, Henry, you broke the old record for the most consecutive weeks in the shop. The record was previously held by myself (valve job and water pump) and also by vwbus (rear window seal) at six weeks each. I wish there was a prize for it. Maybe a Right-to-Gripe award, since bragging rights doesn't really apply. Warranybynet picked up the whole $3k for my transmission. I'm curious how WG does on this.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I would like to thank all the little people at Warranty Gold that made this accomplishment possible.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    OK, I've been looking around, and I found some more info. on making that Aurora faster. Check out caddyinfo.com and x-m-s.com/xms/mainxms.htm
    There is a lot of interesting things about exhaust systems and superchargers for the northstar engine.

    I talked to (I think it was Bob) at extreme motor sports (see that second web site) and he agreed that replacing the catalytic converter may result in a bit too much drop in back pressure and low-end torque. They seem to do a lot of work with Caddys and even have some high performance Caddys for sale. He said they could probably make the same system for the Aurora as the Caddy, so I'm looking into this. It would be a "cat-back" system. I'll keep you posted.

    In addition, he said they DO NOT use any air induction systems on their high performance Caddys. He said they are not good due to the hot air off the engine. Caddyinfo.com also had some test results of before and after HP for the installation of an air induction system for a 4.6 northstar. The air induction actually made the HP drop just a bit. So I guess it's best to stick with the K&N replacement filter and not mess with the RSM induction system.

    There was also some discussion on one of the links at one of the sites about cutting a hole in the bottom of a box that supplies air to the bottom of the air box (on a 4.6) for more air flow. You have to read it for yourself. Anyway, I really think an induction system fitted with a large tube over it that turns down to where the bottom of the air box is would actually work.
  • larryfllarryfl Posts: 214
    Henry:

    That is good news. Hope things continue smoothly and you're back in the saddle next week. Good luck!
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Bob at extreem motor sports informed me that the difference between the 275 HP and 300 HP 4.6 L northstars is a different cam and different heads. It's not due to diffrent tuning as I thought.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    http://www.gm.com/automotive/gmpowertrain/engines_cartruck/northstar/46_torque.htm


    The link will take you to the northstar power curves for both engines. Tuning does include timing differences for valves as well as intake manifold variations.

Sign In or Register to comment.