Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Oldsmobile Aurora

14546485051187

Comments

  • silotwosilotwo Posts: 27
    Thanks to all who responded. Learned that the E23 error code means "internal vehichle/radio communication problem". Of course, once I found a shop that can repair these, as soon as the tech started the car everything worked fine. Need to wait until I get the code again for them to diagnose it. Also learned that units for the 00/01 model year are a direct fit, cost $ 510.00 factory new.

    Anyone know how to remove and replace the Radio, heard it is pretty simple but don't know what to take apart first.

    Had my front plate bracket removed by the dealer, they put two plastic plugs in, wrong color, but at least they put them in, perhaps a gm parts department can find them.

    Have to say, I haven't looked forward to driving a car like I do the 95 since the days of my Porsche 911 and my 69 Vette. (pre wife and kids) Jonesing to get home just to drive the 95 home from the airport, too bad it spends more time parked than it does on the road.
  • zinc1zinc1 Posts: 133
    blk97aurora - I can deal with any format you send, I wouldn't suggest GIF files though, as they're 256 colors and look pretty bad. I convert everything to JPG, resizing and slightly enhancing them when necessary. Send as many images as you like - those black Auroras are nice :)

    Oh, but Hotmail has a size limit. Send me an email at zinc_o@hotmail.com and I'll give you another email address for sending files.
  • zinc1zinc1 Posts: 133
    silotwo - I only get the E23 error when I put a homemade CD in. And then it takes a few tracks before it seems to lose its place.

    When I remove the unit I first take out the center air vent (oval vent left of glove box) by gently prying it out with a flat screwdriver. You can access the right side snaps for the molding around the CD/Radio once it's out. I've always had to just 'work' the left side snaps loose as I haven't been able to get to them (be warned: the plastic snaps can break easily) . After that's off there are a couple of screws mounting the unit. When you remove those and pull the unit out a little you can get to the connectors and you're done.
  • pizza442pizza442 Posts: 110
    With all this talk about the original battery, I was wondering about my 95's as I have only had the car coming up on a year and have a feeling it is original. Since this was mentioned, the car has seemed to start a little slower the last couple of times and my wife told me tonight that it started slow and the DIC said low battery-something.4 volts! I will price a new Delco through my wholesale buddy at the dealer tomorrow.
  • pizza442pizza442 Posts: 110
    All my repairs were done at the dealer (Buick-Pontiac though) They did give it to the Olds/Caddy dealer for this problem early on and they gave the common "plugs and wires" answer without really checking it. Apparently this is a common Northstar problem and is visible by carbon tracking on the plugs. There is an updated plug for these engines now. Of course this did not fix my problem, went to the Caddy/Olds dealer myself and took a ride with their 25 year vet tune-up tech who couldn't notice the surge and later said that everything is performing within specs on the Tech scanner. All these guys need to do is isolate it to either timing/electrical, or fuel related through the use of a gauge on the fuel line or monitor the O2 sensor, or throttle position sensor,or fuel-air mixture, or the timing, at the time of surge---one of these is fluctuating!!
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    My royal subjects:

    Hey Neo!- Welcome back Matrixfrog. I take it from the resumption of your regular postings that you are back from summer vacation.

    Silotwo - the continuation: You know You Are Obsessed with your car when . . . You post a message that reads you are

    "Jonesing to get home just to drive
    the 95 home from the airport".
  • worldii2worldii2 Posts: 27
    I am curious on the cost of a battery for Aurora.
    Was quoted $150.00 over a year ago. Your normal
    parts store do not have those batteries in stock.
    Also, they have a unique shape. Since I have a 1996 Aurora, I frequently check the DIC regarding
    voltage info. Vehicle has original battery. My
    concern is instant failure in the land of no where because of the battery longevity. Purchased vehicle new in August 1996.
  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    So is it the general consensus that this is due to bad gas? Car being picky about gas? 98 only problem? Just curious to see what all peaople have tried to get rid of this. Mine hadn't done it until recently.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    My 98 Aurora doesn't surge (or I haven't noticed). I've had it 3 years now. I did have trouble starting it for a while when the fuel pressure regulator was leaking. I made a quick trip earlier this week and it cruised at just under 80 the whole way. (25.5 mpg going and 27.5 back: head and tail wind difference) I use pure gasoline (not alcohol) and we don't have smog here.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    Are you running in power mode? I'm not sure what you mean by surging. On this trip I just took, the engine was ticking over at 2400 RPM's with the torque converter locked - mile after mile. Except when passing. (3000 = just under 100 by the way)
  • Mine only seems to surge when I use cheap gas and when traveling at constant sub-highway speeds. In the 45-55mph range. Using the good stuff seems to cure it for me. :0)

    The weird thing is that my wife doesn't feel it. I think it is mostly trasmitted via the pedal. Most of time when I am at speed, I have the car on cruise, so maybe I just don't notice but its still there.
  • acont99acont99 Posts: 5
    I am thinking of getting into a 2001 Aurora 4.0 finance. Since the 2001 model is not yet listed I was wondering if some of you have an idea or experience what the depreciation on that car is.
    Is it worth to spent 28K (incl. finance charges) on a 2001 model with 5K miles?
    Thanks, Stefan
  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    I put in some "cheaper" gas the other day. There's a place here that has 93 octane premium for about 10 cents cheaper than everywhere else, so I thought I was being smart buying gas there, but maybe not. My surging is noticable when I'm accelerating. It almost feels like something in the drivetrain is slipping, but I'm almost positive it's the engine (watching the tach). Too bad this car doesn't have a service mode like my toronado does.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I always use premium and have not noticed the problem. I DO KNOW that the car is VERY VERY VERY gas sensitive on what grade of gas I use. If I put in regulart or "silver" I can get behind the wheel and know right way i have lower octane gas in the car. However, the Shell Ultra 94 Octane did not create a noticeable difference in performance.
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    is definitely a problem when it goes out. I was just browsing at some shops to just price the battery and nobody has this kind. It has to be ordered. I also have a 95 with the original and was preparing for our brutal Chicago winter and thinking I was pushing my luck going thru another winter with it. I am thinking if anyone's battery goes out they will be in trouble unless they go with one with less cold cranking amps than the one suggested.
  • andyl2andyl2 Posts: 84
    My Aurora was new in December 1994 and I have had no problem with the original battery. The car was totaled a month ago, so I guess it isn't a concern any more...
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Still on the ORIGINAL battery on my 1995. I think this discussion is interesting in that I had been wondering when to replace the battery. What are the amps that are supposed to be displayed on the DIC ??
  • To all of those inquiring about replacing the battery in your olds.....if there is any doubt about how good the battery is, i would strongly advise to replace it. i have a 95, and in less then 3 days, it went from working great, to being so weak it wouldn't even light up the interior lights. when you think of all the electronics on this highly sophisticated car, it's definately not worth the risk of having the heart of the electrical system die. the cold season is around the corner, and that alone is rough on a car's battery.
    that's just my honest opinion, i hope this saves someone from getting stuck somewhere, and of course it would happen at the most inconvenient time and place.
  • I have been lurking on this site since January. It is really fun. For the most part, everyone seems excited about his/her car.

    I always knew that I would buy a new car in the Fall. I am now convinced that I should buy an Aurora. The members of this board seem to have expert advice. Can someone tell me things to look for when buying a 1996 or 1997 Aurora. I am closely examining a low-mileage '96 (about 47k miles, $11k). What are the common problems? What are the common service issues? Any defects for these years? Is the money amount good (I imagine that Olds cars are selling for pretty low prices these days)? THANKS IN ADVANCE.
  • worldii2worldii2 Posts: 27
    The consumer report on the 1996 Aurora has reliability ranking as outstanding based on survey
    from owners. The price on the 1996 is realistic based on the low miles. Wholesale is around
    8K because of new Aurora body change. If the 96
    is at a dealership, ask that the service department to run the VIN number regarding service.
    They have the capabilities to give you a computer
    readout (titled HISTORY LISTING) which entails
    every service job peformed including oil/filter
    changes. If purchase is from a private owner inquire what dealersip serviced vehicle and ask
    seller to obtain info for you. It seems the 1996
    Aurora owners on this site are pleased with there
    vehicle. Inquire if there is any remaining warranty which can be transferred to you. My opinion is that your considering a good vehicle.
    TRY TO GET SOME TYPE WARRANTY!!!!
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    have been showing on the monitor at anywhere from 13 to 15 volts. If only 4 volts, I would be very worried.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    My independent mechanic has been telling me about GM's "new" gel battery. Is this new technology the way for us to go when replacing the battery on the Classics?
  • darren13,

    When I bought my '97 in September 1999, I started out looking at '95s and '96s In researching the differences among model years, I came up with the following from articles published on the web:

    Changes from 1995 to 1996: removed backlight distortion (at least one discussion member has stated that the '95's distortion isn't all that bad). Added DRLs, panic button to keyless entry, seats and mirrors move to preset position when doors are unlocked using keyless remote, programmable door locks, perimeter lighting activated when doors are unlocked in the dark, battery run-down protection, and recirculation mode for a/c.

    Changes from 1996 to 1997: Added parallel park assist (right mirror dips when in reverse), compass to rear-view mirror, 3-channel garage-door opener. Changed: front rotors increased from 275 to 278 millimeters, FE3 sport suspension (different front springs, struts, and stabilizer bar; rear suspension pieces did not change), improved operation of the outside door handles, and end-release seat-belt buckles.

    Changes from 1997 to 1998: second-generation air bags.

    Whether any of these differences are significant enough to base a purchase decision is up to you. I did start looking at '97s (and eventually bought) because of the "improved" brakes and FE3 suspension. In retrospect I don't know how much of a real improvement, if any, there is. It's sure not my father's FE3! But then I am a former 4-4-2 owner, and my standards for handling are high. Perhaps other members could share their experience.

    Even though I have listed the diffences among model years, I believe more important factors are condition, miles, price, and, as worldii2 pointed out, a good warranty. I've been pretty lucky with my '97 so far, but some owners have had significant, expensive problems.

    Good luck!
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,032
    ....but I'm here to announce the new Oldsmobile Aurora Owners club now available on Edmunds.com Owner's Club board. Please stop by and introduce yourself in Meet the Members and let me know how I can help build your club.

    I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in Sedans.

    Looking forward to meeting everyone!

    KarenS
    Host
    Owner's Clubs

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Yes I am gonna wear the title.

    I have left my mark on the Owners Club.

    I think it only fitting that I was the first one. (Zinc1 you know what i mean).
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    This thread has been fun as well as informative. To that end I would like one additional topic added to the Owner's club. A Best Postings topic. Some of the things posted on this board have just been down right funny, they should have a board of their own.

    My nominations would be:

    Zinc1 's - Whisper Sweat Nothings Posting.

    Zinc1's story of hitting 149mph
    (as told by Henri)
  • ewtewt Posts: 127
    The car won't run once the voltage gets around 11V. My alternator died on the way home from a 80 mile trip and the car literally quit running as I pulled into the driveway. The last time I looked at battery voltage it was at 11.2 or 11.3V. Replacing the alternator was not much fun. I've got a lot of tools,have done a lot of automotive repair work at home, and it took me 5 or 6 hours including a belt and radiator hose change. It wasn't much fun to say the least. Most of the bolts are very hard to get to because of the exhaust manifold on one side and motor mount on the other. The parts guy at the dealer said techs at the dealership actually drop the engine/tranny because it is so hard to get to from above.

    I'm still on the original battery as well with a 96. Keeping them out of the underhood heat must make them last longer.

    Eric
  • mosaixmosaix Posts: 106
    Any 2001 Aurora owners here? Specifically 3.5 owners. It seems alot here really love the previous generation Aurora and I like it alot too, I'm just curious how some Aurora 3.5 owners are liking their cars. I recently purchased an Intrigue GLS and also considered the Aurora 3.5, but it didn't seem to justify the higher price. Now the 4.0 version is a completely different story, too bad it was just a bit out of my price range new. I did consider a late model used Aurora, but could not find one with the features or color I wanted. I specifically wanted a 98 or 99 in either black, dark red, dark blue, or bronzemist with the autobahn package, Bose, and sunroof. I found several 98s for as low as 18,900 with only about 35K, but they were both white(not the diamond white either) and no sunroof. Drove an 01 3.5 and despite having less road noise and more upscale interior trim, it really didn't seem to have much else that a loaded Intrigue GLS had so I went that route.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Glad you like the new digs! ;-)

    You'll need to email Karen to ask for new discussions to be added to the Club - karen@edmunds.com - she'll take care of it.

    Have fun!

    Pat
    Host
    Sedans Message Board
  • zinc1zinc1 Posts: 133
    Ah, yes, the One More Bauble post (it was *only* 139mph though). It is, in fact, fitting that you be the first in the Owner's Club. You started the Aurora thread back in '98.

    blk97aurora - Great info on the model-year changes. I have a 96 with the 3-channel garage door opener though. I think that was a 95 1/2 to 96 change. I've gone through one set of rotors in two years and they're beginning to shudder so I'll be having them checked again this weekend. I wonder if it's possible to just get the newer rotors.
Sign In or Register to comment.