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Oldsmobile Aurora

14748505253187

Comments

  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    drew43 - I can't imagine someone would roll back a car for only 8,000 miles. No way. I'd bet the carfax could be goofed. I believe it checks records, so perhaps the miles were entered wrong by the state BMV employees. You know those state BMV people are really on top of things - ha ha. I agree with zinc1 - your car is probably honest, but that goofy record is there to scare a future buyer. If you put a lot of miles on it, it will not matter much anyway. My car came from Canada, so Carfax shows the "grey markey history" warning because it was not originally registered in the US and "does not meet emissions". That may be true of Europe or Mexico, but not Canada. When you pop the hood, it has the sticker right in front that says it does - it's the same car that is sold in the US. No difference. I asked the dealer, and he gave me several VIN's on other cars on the lot from Canada, and they all checked out the same - as the dealer said. You're probably fine.
  • The 98 price list was:
    Base: 35960
    shipping: 665
    autobahn: 395
    disk changer: 460
    heated seats: 295
    sunroof: 995
    bose: 871
    chrome wheels: 800

    This is mostly everything. Note that the intro 95 base including shipping was 32000. I took these from an Edmunds spring price book.
  • My '97 has averaged about 1500 miles per quart over the 25,000 miles I have owned. I used Mobil 1 from my first oil change, so I don't have a basis for comparing to non-synthetic oil. This is higher oil consumption than I expected in a relatively new car. Other Aurora and Northstar owners report similar experince. Is 1 qt per 1500 miles "normal" or do I have a problem?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Oil - The cars burn oil period. the amount will depend on how you drive the car. If you ZINC the car a lot (like I do), you will probably burn more since the engine's RPM are higher during the take-off. I personally don't think it is anything to be concerned with.

    Battery - I am becoming a little concerned agout my battery. With a build date of December 94, I am beginning to wonder if I should attempt another winter eith the battery. The DIC says everything is okay, but I am mindful of the posting about the readout being from the alternator and not the battery. OPINIONS????

    P.S. - I dusted my first MINIVAN today.
  • Is there a way to see if the wires are assembly line-original or if they actually replaced them like they said? I remember the wires on my 3.4 DOCE V6 in my 94 Cutlass were numbered 1-6 from the factory and I have seen that on other factory wires, but the GM dealer replacements aren't numbered. Maybe they just replaced the plugs and skipped the wires on my 95? This Pontiac/Buick dealer probably had the plugs on hand but didn't feel like ordering out for the wires. Anybody still have the original set of wires?Jay
  • Since they fixed the oil leak my 98 doesn't use oil ~ .5 quarts between oil changes (3000-4000miles or more).
  • I own a '95 and a '97 Aurora both w/autobahn. We really enjoy the cars, BUT, in the summertime in KS where the temp is 100+ the guages read 220 to 240. Olds dealer say that is okay. I would like my high speed cooling fan to come on at the start or could be controlled manually. Olds dealer says there isn't any way this can be done because of the computer control, it turns on the "check engine light". Manual says it comes with 180 degree thermostat, Olds dealer says it comes with 195. I don't have any problems when going the speed limit, engines run 195 - 200 degrees, just traffic jams. any suggestions. I have read some of the other concerns about the temperature, but no solutions. Thanks
  • garnes-zinc1 yeah,the more I think about it you guys are right.I think this CARFAX is goofed.On 3/21/95 It has the car being inspected with 7,893 miles on it.Info source just says,Inspection co.NewYork.8 days later 3/29/95 It has car at 13 miles on it.Info source New York motor vehicle dept.under general comments just says TITLE ISSUED.WHATEVA!!I don't plan on selling her anyway.I may have to sell my house because of this car,but i'm not selling the car, gotta keep your prioritys straight you know.
    May have wasted some more money,anybody out there ever try ALLDATA.For $25.00 bucks you can get all service bullitens tech info etc.for 1 year.I signed up for it.It seems really good,tons of info.Just 1 problem the site is SLOWER than HELL!!Keep getting a page that says "having trouble with server"Maybe it will be better tommorow.I'll do anything to stay away from those GOOBERS down at the local dealership.I'm out.
  • cwiley1- I think the dealer is right on this one.I belive these cars just run hot.I was concerned about it too.I have the offical service manuel.($126.00)It says the low speed fans don't kick on until the engine temp. reaches 223 degrees farenheigt.And the high speed fans don't kick on until the temp reaches 230.I thought they should kick on earlier than that, but I guess not.I don't think there is anything you can do about it.But STAY TUNED there are people that visit this site that know more than I do.
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    is a chronic problem for me. It seems every other month one side blows out.

    Henri --- Glad you got your baby back. Just take it out on the highway and really enjoy the smooth sailing that the classic provides. My 95 was built in May and I am going to order me a battery because I don't think I want to be caught this winter in Chicago with a 6 year old battery.

    iahmatthew -- The part that controls the air doors was cracked on my 95 and that caused the doors not to open for the air. I will get back to you with the part number.
  • pizza442,

    As far as I know, the plug wires on my '97 are original. I bought it in September 1999 at 37,000 miles. The wires are marked to identify the cylinders (2, 4, 6, 8) -- I haven't examined the rear bank. Also imprinted on the gray surface of each wire is a white rectangle positioned where the wires are secured by notches attached to each fuel injector; looks to me like this was an assembly line job aid. Wires 6 and 8 also have a round purple dot next to the white rectangle; I have no idea what this may signify.
  • iahmatthew,

    By "recommended battery" do you mean AC/Delco brand? Do any other manufacturers (marketers) sell a battery of the right size and with the venting to fit our Auroras?
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Garnes: I don't have first-hand knowledge on longevity of Zaino, seeing how I just used it for the first time on Saturday. From what I've read, it's supposed to last for 4-6 months. It's a real bear to prep your car for this (remove wax, wash, clay, wash), but, once that's done, and the Z-1 base is down, it takes 20-30 minutes (each time) to put the polishes on/take 'em off.

    I now have applied 2 coats of the Z-5 swirl/scratch polish (with the Z-6 gloss enhancer in between), and the car positively glows. I want to apply another coat of that, and then a couple of the Z-2 show car polish, before taking some pictures and posting the link here...

    Absolutely amazing stuff... and no, I have no vested interest in the company, other than as a very satisfied consumer...

    --Robert
    (who still has his wife's white Grand Prix GTP to do :-)
  • zinc1zinc1 Posts: 133
    I'm keeping an eye out for an Aurora hubcap for Maciek. He lost the left rear one on his 95. Looking for a used one in the States to purchase, as it costs too much for him to buy a new one and ship it to Poland. If anyone sees one for sale, please let me know. Thanks.

    Also have to confess I was in a hurry to get the car waxed today so I used Nu Finish on her. It looks and feels very nice right now. And it's supposed to last a full year. We'll see. Anyone tried it?
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    zinc, in a previous life, I used NuFinish on my Grand Prix. It did OK, but it does haze/fade over time, and definitely doesn't last a year - 3-4 months, maybe. You also have to watch out for swirling (more noticeable on a darker car).

    One other thing I like about the Zaino is that it applies very easily, and it's not difficult to remove, meaning that I have little to no overwax leftover on the car (a personal pet peeve, again, especially bad on a black car)...

    --Robert
  • You looking for a rim or just a center cap?
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    We're not supposed to use Town Hall to buy and sell stuff. Perhaps you could take this hubcap conversation off-line.

    Thanks.

    Pat
    Host
    Sedans Message Board
  • zinc1zinc1 Posts: 133
    I posted a request on my Classic Aurora Forum for this. You can reply there, or email me if you find one. Thanks.

    hammen2 - I did some reading on these products last night. Seems Zaino takes a few steps to complete, but it's used for show car quality, and, if you're right, lasts longer than Nu Finish. Nu Finish had okay reviews. Some were great reviews: used for 10 years and loved it. Some mentioned orange peel, yellowing, average appearance compared to better waxes. The Polymer base vs. Carnauba is supposed to last longer. It's easy enough to apply.

    Also dropped karen@edmunds.com a suggestion for a new thread in the owners club: I liked the 'You Know You're an Aurora Fanatic When...' series, but I can't keep track of the entrys here.
  • I think it would also be cool if we had sub-headings inside the problem and solution section for common Auroritis-type problems such as the water pump, surging, back window seal, etc. That way it would be easy to find info from others on these problems.
  • Sorry about that - was just curious since all Auroras (to my knowledge) had aluminum rims instead of steel with hubcaps. Thought it might have been some weird setup or something.
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Posts: 134
    Is there a common problem with the rear window seals on these cars? I noticed that mine is a little loose on the drivers side-bottom edge. I put it down to age (mine's a '95) and was planning to squirt some silicone sealant in there to seal/glue it up.
    Since it was mentioned a few posts up, I thought I'd ask -- is this a indicative of a really serious problem, or should I just glue it?

    JC
  • Heya nne3jxc;

    Yeah...There IS a common problem with the rear window seal...GM flaked when it came to this minor problem. Keep in mind that the seal you SEE is not really a seal, but a filler for the gap that the real seal leaves...So that plastic that wraps all the way around your car down the back window and around the front windshield is merely a shroud. It can be glued, whacked, nailed, stapled or taped in any way you see fit.

    My car was in the shop for 6 weeks because of this problem...Hey! I got to drive a new caddy while they worked on it! Anyhow...It has since come off in places, so I just used a very strong epoxy and it fixed it.

    The real seal is underneath the cheap plastic seal. Keep that in mind...
  • NNE3JXC- Yes,this a very common problem.My 95'has the same problem,to fix it correctly I belive the rear window has to be pulled out and new mouldings/seals have to be ordered.Took mine to a glass shop the guy there said he's done plenty of auroras the dealer ships them over to him.gave me a price of $180-$200.00 if I remember right.Being the great procrastinator that I am,haven't had it done yet.He assured me this was a cosmetic problem,and the window will NOT leak.But said that over time the wind would work on it and it would just get worse.I'll have to have him do it.(SOMEDAY)
  • Zinc...Any news with the replacement of your curb grinder? What is it for? Did GM install it to make me wince everytime I pull out of my driveway? Why? Why? Why? Mine is hanging by a thread and I would love to replace it. I saw a part number a few posts earlier and I will be sure to check it out as I hear from you. If it proves to be purposeless, then I will simply rip it off like a bad hang nail.

    Ewww...
  • Drew43: I originally thought that the outer seal was the real seal, but I saw my car with it off and there is a huge THICK seal underneath that flimsy one that actually protects the car...

    They do not have to remove the glass. If they had to remove the glass, it would not be $200.00! Do not take this repair lightly. It is VERY difficult and if you do not have a decent craftsman look at it, then it will look crappy and blow off again. Trust me...Remember...I'm a record holder here! If it is bubbling in the center (rear) or peeling away at the base of the windshield, just use a simple black resin to fix it yourself. If it is much worse and your car is under the FACTORY warranty, then take it to the dealer. Be sure you get a nice rental, cuz it's gunna be awhile!

    VM
  • UGH!! Just clicked on the link: Aurora owners photo gallery, from the Town Hall site.What is that thing? does'nt look like an AroarA to me.(sorry could'nt help myself)
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Karen's just showing you how it is done. Post your own picture of your AroarA and show us all what they really look like! ;->

    Pat
    Host
    Sedans Message Board
  • If you are talking about the cardboard like stripe on the bottom of the radiator/frame it does serve a purpose. The Olds dealer in Wichita, Ks said take it off and leave it off. I did until the first warm day, the engine ran 10 to 20 degrees hotter than normal. I had the Olds dealer order me one(about $25 I think). I put it on and the engine temp. ran normal. You need it unless your climate is cold.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    I posted earlier (after vwbus came back) about the "outer" seal coming off my still-in-warranty-for-90-more-days '98. My dealer has glued the clip (and taped it to the back window with duct tape for 2-3 days) 3 times, and yep, it's come off 3x (seems to stay on for a month)...

    Should I just insist that the dealer fix this? Call the Olds Assistance Center (has anyone ever had luck in doing this)? Take it to another dealer?

    If anyone's got any advice for me, I'd sure appreciate it...

    Thanks,

    --Robert
  • zinc1zinc1 Posts: 133
    nne3jxc, hammen2, drew43 - Mine had a black silicone oozing out of the front and back window seals/trim when I bought it. Looks like the dealer worked on it. I trimmed off the excess gunk and everything has stayed in place for 2 years. I usually swear by the clear silicone for adhering slick surfaces together (it's used in aquariums) and would/will use it if the trim comes off.

    vwbus1979 - I haven't had time yet to get a lot of opinions on the infamous plastic deflector. I agree with cwiley1 that it's necessary for added air to the radiator, but I can't figure why it's not actually scooping the air in. GM puts these on other cars as well, but they've since learned to make them flexible so they won't get knocked off - my neighbors with the Saturn thought theirs was a 'curb finder'. Really. Just a guess: the flat surface may cause an air bulge in front of it that could separate airflow above and below the bulge without sending up too much dirt and water, maybe - could also allow hot air to escape from behind it too. And yeah, I wince every time I leave the driveway now :P
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