Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Oldsmobile Aurora

15657596162187

Comments

  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Shucknet - yeah, that's the lens that you want over the cluster. It's about $12. About $60 to install, but it's probably easy and the goof in the shop will smudge up the inside. I don't know how to replace it - maybe just pop off the two very small plastic panels (light dimmer and the trunk and fuel release) that seem to hold the lens in. I can't help you with the light behind it.

    I had the dealer do the light in the shifter diplay (warranty). It should light up a bright orange. They actually cleaned the backside of the clear plastic over the gear indicator too, but also left behind greasy smudges that seem to have discolored more with time. That's why I'd love to get at it again.
  • I've had my '99 about three months-I love it. I have had no problems. I have been reading this forum since before I bought my Aurora. In fact it greatly helped me make my mind up to buy one. Thanks everyone. One thing I have noticed is that I cannot see the shift indicator at night. It has been like this since the night that I drove it home. The light behind the clear plastic lights, so I just figured that this is the way it is. I can't see the actual orange needle though [it is not a problem during the day]. How about you others-is yours easy to see at night? Games-your last message got me thinking that there might be another separate light for the indicator. Is this the light that you are refering to? My car is still under factory warranty. If that should be lighting, I'll have a dealer fix it.
  • Tearing into the console was one of my first repair activities. Daeven is right about starting disasembly with the console tray -- 4 screws at the top and 2 at the bottom. Careful with them -- I dropped 2 down the a/c duct, never to be seen again; at least I don't hear them. Then there are 2 screws behind the ashtray door and I think 2 more behind the trim plate that surrounds the radio. Remove the shifter -- pull straight up after removing the metal retainer clip on the front. Carefully observe the wiring for the performance button as it can be tricky to reinstall. My objective was to fix the illumination for the gear shift indicator -- should be bright red or orange. In my case the wiring was broken; a poor job of design. The wire is very small gauge and not flexible (I think it may even have been solid instead of stranded). Add to that the bad wire dress that gave little strain relief as the shifter moved forward and back, and I'd be surprised if the wiring lasted more than 6 months in normal service. I replaced it with very flexible test lead wire from Radio Shack.

    Thanks to those of you who gave me advice on replacing the battery. I was concerned with what I read in the service manual about the TP sensor / idle learn procedure. After giving it some thought overnight, I came up with what is probably a very obvious solution. I connected a portable jump-start battery (usually carried in my wife's minivan) to the battery terminal and ground under the hood. I figured that there would be no disruption of voltage as I disconnected the Aurora battery. My results still puzzle me. I did not lose the radio presets nor DIC information; radio TheftLock was not activated, BUT the clock reset to 1:00 AM. When I started the engine, it seemed to hunt for idle for 10 to 15 seconds, then settled down. I drove it a few miles and everything seems fine.

    silotwo: my experience seems to mirror yours. I would probably have gone the dealer route for $120, but I no longer have a local Olds dealer (parted ways with GM in April and is now exclusively BMW), and my local Pontiac dealer wanted $150 for the battery (not including installation).

    BTW, that battery is a heavy sucker -- 55 pounds. When I checked the internet for batteries, it showed up as ACDelco's heaviest auto battery. The others were in the 30 and low 40 pound range.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    rbreen - welcome. Yes, that is supposed to light up orange. It will be done under warranty. I was in the same boat as you when I first got it.

    Blk97 - thanks for the description. It sounds tricky. After what I did, my confidence is low anyway. Well I disconnected the battery to try and help the computer reset after I apparently got it a bit confused. I hope there are no bad surprises when I hook it back up. I'm not sure what I should be concerned about with the idle and such. Well I'll find out in the morning I guess.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Welcome rbreen,

    The shift indicator is supposed to be illuminated so that it's bright orange when the full headlamps are on. This didn't work on my car, and the dealer I bought the car from (used) tried to repair it twice, before they figured out that the fuse was blown, and that's why it didn't illuminate. With this fuse out, the accessory power outlet didn't work either. So, test your accessory power outlet - if it doesn't work, the problem's a fuse, otherwise it's the bulb or the wiring (which my dealer did solder as well, in their first attempt to fix the problem).

    Onto other common (minor) Aurora problems, on both my mother-in-law's and my own '98's, both of the cornering lamps in the front (on both sides) have had to be replaced due to moisture getting in them. Also, both of us have had the rear bumper come loose behind the rear wheels/had to be re-tightened.

    M-I-L's steering is now intermittently making a groan when she turns left. Of course, it seems to always happen when she gets off work (GM Janesville Plant) at 2 a.m., but it's fine when she takes it to the dealership...

    --Robert
  • Does anyone know how to replace the light in the center console? Mine never worked when I got it and I wouldnt mind reaplcing it but cant figure out how. Thanks...
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I take it you missed the last few postings. If you read back a few postings, this has been discussed to death. It has joined a list of subjects on this board that have beat a dead horse. Do you remember:

    1) The operating temperature of the Aurora
    2) The battery life
    3) The air box modifications
    4) The rear window seal
    5) The stereo (i.e replacing, fixing, adding trunk
    mounted CD player)
    6) the stalling/surging issue
    7) The check engine light (EGR valve)
    8) Cleaning behind the console
    9) The garage door opener control and the
    "red light"

    Come on guys, I know there are a few I left out.

    (Hey Neo, I am just joking with you/us.)
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    10) How long ___________ (fill in the blank) Aurora
    was in the shop.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    Mine doesn't work. Was a program car so first owner may have wiped it out. Will check fuses. Thanks for the tip. (its not hard to figure out what gear your in anyway from the tach)
  • Is there any way we can get the problems/solutions thing split up into different folders according to problem and then go through the archives and put the appropriate messages in the appropriate folders? That would be majorly helpful. Then you could just reference that thread. I'd be willing to do the sorting work (it would take a few days, but that's ok).

    By the way, it's great to see all of the activity on this board the last week - our status is sliding back up the owner's club list. Way to go!
  • Does anyone know much about the headlight circuitry in the car? I want to switch my headlights over to true Xenon HID, but in order to do that, I think it would be a good idea to install some sort of halogen bulb for the DRL, perimeter lighting, and lock/unlock headlight flashes so I don't wear out the starter/ballast unit on the HID lights.

    Anyone know if these are separate circuits or what? I'll dig into my service manual tonight, but I wanted to pose the question to see if anyone else had dealt with this.
  • Sorry Henry, I need to catch up on what I missed.

    I'm sorry to say it but I'm seriously considering selling my aurora. :o( I need something faster, cheaper, and something with a wide array of aftermarket parks. I got my eye on a 98 Mitsu Eclipse. AWD and turbocharged and 1/2 the price I paid for my aurora with the same ammount of miles.

    Don't get me wrong, I love my car to death. I just want something a bit faster and cheaper. I got to fix a few things before I do sell(if I do breakdown to it) so dont count me leaving the forum just yet ;o)
  • Illumination of my stock radio (non-Bose, non-CD changer) went out on the left side today. Has anyone fixed radio illumination? The owners manual lists nothing other than #168 bulbs for interior courtesy lights -- what a joke; says to contact Olds retailer for more information. The service manual has even less information (unless I missed something).

    Before I pull and open up the radio, I thought it wise to learn others' experiences.

    shuchnet: I think your suggestion in message #1841 is a great idea.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Use the FORCE Neo!!

    If you really want aftermarket stuff, you have to go Honda. Everything is made for the Honda, espcially if you get the car in stick.

    The aROARa is not a good choice for Mods because of its target audience of 40 years to dead usually does not do MODS.
  • Unfortunately, the light is probably soldered to the circuit board on the control plate in the radio. I'm not sure what the best way to go about getting a new one would be. I guess I've got an extra radio with a cracked face and CD player that doesn't work that I wouldn't mind canniballizing for a few parts.

    If you can't find the bulb at a local electronics store, let me know (ryan@shucknet.com) and I'll see if I can't take one out of my extra radio.

    Either way you'll probably have to be prepared to do some soldering.
  • The Aurora doesn't have a lot of "rice" mods like giant wings, huge front air dams with fake intercoolers, altezza taillights, etc. But, there is a decent market out there for the 4.6L Northstar that often applies to the 4.0 as well.

    If you hang on to the end of the year, there's a Supercharger kit that will be available for the 4.6L. I e-mailed the guy about 4.0L compatibility and he didn't see why it wouldn't work with a little modification.

    Corsa is going to have a 20HP exhaust kit soon. Got the K&N airfilter option in addition to a little altering of the air box. RSM has a wider throttle body, strut tower braces, KYBs, and poly trans and engine mounts. I think there is also a Baer 3 piston brake kit available, but I haven't been able to find it yet. I've seen it on Cadillacs which leads me to believe it would work on the Aurora, too.

    It would be pretty easy to get a 350HP Aurora between the S/C (~70HP), exhaust, and intake changes. That's a pretty powerful car. Not to mention, That Eclipse isn't going to feel near as stable as your Aurora at 140mph, if the Eclipse can get there =)

    On one note, the Eclipse will be cheaper. That is, until the turbo rips up the little 4 banger in there.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Shucknet - right on. RSM racing said they are developing a supercharger for the Aurora too. That's too radical for me though.

    What did Corsa tell you about the Aurora?? I talked to them a week ago and they are still no closer to doing Aurora stuff. I'm trying to get them to do a one time thing for my car. Perhaps if a few of us would put our money down they would be more motivated to disrupt their daily routine. I always talk to Jim Browning Jr. I'd hope for a 10 to 15 HP boost at the wheels from an Aurora system (just proportional to the Caddy results).

    Also, don't forget the Granatelli mass air flow meter. It is supposed to gain 8 to 12 HP at the wheels.

    My car is running great. I disconnected the battery overnight to reset the computer just in case my pulling the temp sensor blunder had changed anything. I plan to hit the dyno at the end of the month to test that MAF sensor and my further air box work. I'll bet I can get it on the Caddyinfo.com site with pictures of what I did as well. I still think a 280 to 290 HP Aurora is very possible by just letting it breath better.

    Try hassling http://www.carputing.com they may address the computer too for the Northstar - someday. One thing I learned last time at the dyno is that the full throttle fuel/air ratio can really make a difference - and that perhaps they don't exactly optimize this at the factory. You would think they would, but if they did, there would not be the chip market I guess.
  • does anybody know where to find a GOOD repair manual for the classic? haynes doesn't make one, and i'm having trouble locating a manual on the web. any help would be appreciated.
  • I haven't talked to Corsa, that's all just hearsay from me. I'm no exhaust pro, so correct me if I'm wrong, but couldn't a good exhaust shop do a little work with the Corsa kit for the STS/DTS and make it fit an Aurora? Or is it more involved than that?

    Also, is anyone here well versed in suspension? If so, drop me an e-mail or something. My Aurora doesn't "bounce" evenly. It was hit in the left front before I bought it and I have a feeling there's something goofed up up there, but I have absolutely zero suspension knowledge. Any help there would be appreciated.
  • Every once in a while, a factory service manual set (3 books) will pop up on eBay. They're pretty helpful. A little hard to reference, but all the info you need is in there.
  • Try the following website. They produce the official GM service manuals. You could take the car apart and put it back together with them.


    http://www.helminc.com


    Then just follow the menus.


    Campo57

  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    of a community policy with which some of our new folks may not have been familiar --

    The Town Hall is not an appropriate place to use "rice" terms when discussing vehicles. Please find other ways to get your point across than using that word or any derivations of it.

    Thanks.

    Pat
    Host
    Sedans Message Board


  • Errr.... there's the PC police looking out for us again. That's right, rather than let others form their opinions of me on their own, they are telling us how to think. Whether it was implicit or not, that message is basically saying "everyone should think that it is not ok to use that term." We are smart, we can form our own opinions.

    My name is attributed to my comments, so if someone who is reading them has issue with them, they may take it up with me personally (ryan@shucknet.com). And I must say, if someone is so deeply offended by my use of that term, then they must have a pretty easy life to have time to worry about things so miniscule.

    I am not personally attacking our host, but I am saying that I think since this is not an anonymous forum that Edmunds doesn't need to censor us. The check and balance here is that our names are attributed to our posts.

    In addition, those four letters are much easier to type than "over-zealous appearance modifications that do not enhance performance". So see, I'm really saving Edmunds money - less bandwidth and less storage space to save my message. But hey, I guess we throw simplicity and clarity out the window so everyone can feel all warm and fuzzy about themselves.

  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Again, it is community policy. I do not create the policy, but I am charged with seeing that it is upheld. I am actually supposed to delete all messages containing that term, but I felt that since you are new here, it would be a nice thing to just ask that you comply with the policy in the future instead of "punishing" you for a policy of which you probably were not aware. So in fact you were not "censored" - as a new member, you were just politely asked to respect the wishes of a well-established community.

    We have a number of members of the Town Hall who do indeed find that term offensive - this is why it has become community policy.

    In case you might not have thoroughly read the Membership Agreement when you joined us, you might want to check it out - there is a link on the left sidebar of this page to it.

    If you have further comments on this subject, please email me - this is not an appropriate place for this discussion. I can give you other contacts within Edmunds to speak with, if you'd like.

    Thanks.

    Pat
    Host
    Sedans Message Board
  • shucknet: Thanks for the information and offer to help. I will let you know, but it will be awhile because I'm overwhelmed at work right now.
  • zinc1zinc1 Posts: 133
    One good thing about the Aurora is its understated design - at least by today's standards. I don't know, maybe it's just me, but most of these plastic-clad, aftermarket marred minis offend my sensibilities. The tin-can exhausts sound like the morning after a chili cook-off (no offense to chili chefs). The xenon everything leaves blue spots in my eyes and makes all the other lights suddenly seem a sickly yellow (not that yellow is a bad color, I'm not baggin' on yellow). And what's with the gaudy snouts? (no offense, Carl Malden) You'd think they were gonna suck up all the air in the city and leave your car asphyxiated! (good thing they're just for 'show' - it's enough lost irony to make an automaker cry). I considered getting a spoiler for my Aurora until I noticed all the wing-ed ones in my kid's highschool parking lot (no offense to Aurora owners with spoilers: they do look nice). The wings are getting scary now too. Did you notice that they get bigger every year? Soon they'll look like B2-Bombers on four wheels (except for the snout and xenon lights) and the cars will disappear entirely underneath, then they'll have to widen the lanes for these B2s with chili-gas to get around on. And I thought tail lights were supposed to be red(?) Why are all the tail lights getting small and round with all this silver and clear plastic around them? Didn't tail lights used to be small and round, then they got bigger so we could see them?

    [taking a breath]

    Or is it just me?
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    shucknet - suggestion - substitute the r-word with "broccoli". It will work for those on this board. George Bush Sr. may be offended (he hated the stuff)but I don't think he drives an Aurora.

    You have a good point about using the Caddy system and I talked to Corsa about it. They suggested it too. I mentioned that not knowing what modifications are needed, I would not want to spend the money and have some goobers have to bend up the thing or compromise the system. They agreed. So, Corsa e-mailed me yesterday and they are looking at a 1998 Aurora today to see what is required. They may want me to visit their place next week. Maybe after looking at it, they will determine they can indeed modify the STS system easily and send it to me.

    Zinc - I second your thoughts. One way of looking at it is that you never before knew if one of these goofs was behind the wheel of a car near you. Now they identify themselves and warn the public. It's a good thing. Same with what some of these people adorn their faces with sometimes. You could not pass a law to get the stupid to publicly identify themselves, but now it's being done voluntarily. Again - It's a good thing.

    Matrixfrog - before making the switch, consider the mods discussed on this board. There really is a lot you can do. Yeah the car is heavy, but with 280 or 290 HP and the 3.48 or 3.71 transaxle, you're gonna move - and still ride first class all the time.
  • thanks campo57 for the helm site. has anybody ever used consumers choice warranty service? they seem to have a good price for an extended warranty but you can never tell about these companies. it seems as though you just hold your breath and see if they will pay up and not give you the runaround.
  • where would i find the factory paint color code so i can order some touch-up paint? does anybody know a resource to find this info? i know the 2 number code, but a parts man told me he needed a longer number, i believe he said it was about 4 #'s and a couple of letters with it. any help would be appreciated. it is a '97 silver-teal metallic
  • Check the glove box. There should be a list of all the RPO codes there.

    There should be a code with the letter U after it. That is the paint code. There should also be a code with WA in front of some numbers. That should be the full paint code. You can't always go by the 2 number with the U after it.

    Hope that helps.

    Campo57
Sign In or Register to comment.