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Oldsmobile Aurora

15960626465280

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  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    The delays have been due to the warranty company.

    Week six - I spoke to the dealership today and they continue to have issues with Warranty Gold's administrator. So I got to waste half a day dealing with the warranty company myself in an attempt to fix the situation. In the end we may have gotten to the right result for the wrong reasons.

    Ask me about the car again on Tuesday. That is when I get the next update on the car's progress.

    My other mechanic brought up the Aurora today. He said I must be really missing the Aurora after "not having any" for over a month. I told him that most of the driving I have been doing is around town, and I don't like the aROARa for around town driving because it burns too much gas and is more difficult to manuver into tight city parking spaces.

    Have you seen her
    Tell me Have you Seen her?

    Oh I see her wheel reaching out to me
    Only her horsepower can set me free

    Have you seen her
    Tell me have you seen her

    WHY OH WHY?

    Did it have to leave and go away
    for so long. .
  • After reading some of the Aurora messages for a few months, I've decided to write in. I have a 95 black on graphite with 93K miles.

    Firstly, thanks for the great info, pix, recommendations. I hope to buy the I & N filter soon. My mechanic said he would show me how to install it and advised me that it does require some light maintanance.

    I bought this beast in December of 1999, after owning a Chevy Corsica V6 with 4 speed Get rag for 12 years - sold it at 115,000 miles and after shopping around for new cars and losing my patience after going through 3 Chrysler, dealers (Concord), I looked at the used rags and found this close-to-immaculate 95 about 10 miles away. Had been bought in MA, was with his second owner who was selling it to get a company car. I think he was asking 11.8 or 11.9, I offered him 11.5 and he took it.

    It was test driven by my mechanic, who gave it his blessing. Within less than a week, it needed a new water pump. So the $500 I spent on that I consider as part of the purchase price, so I round it off to $12,000. I have amazed friends in many ways with this car, one of which is I drive a $33,000 car, but paid for it cash as a result of a national travel video gig.

    I have never been thrilled with the acceleration. I know they say that weight (3,950 lbs.) nixed any great performance. Even when I test drove it, my first Aurora drive ever, I though, its adequate, but not thrilling. I'd like to know... Is that weight contributing towards its great handling? Is that the payoff?

    Does anybody know if anybody has succesfully put an STS engine inside or done any modification to bring the HI and torque up?

    We all know its strengths like the best dashboard/cockpit I have seen and which gives you a thrill every time you step inside! The numerous features, the sound of the door and trunk closing, good braking, and on. I would like to raise a few negatives for your comment.

    I have wind noise that is caused by the space between the drivers side door and the weatherstriping. When I go through a car wash, a bit of water sprays in. Does this mean its time to take it for weatherstripping replacement? I know an autbody shop will do it, how about something faster like a glass replacement place or general mechanic?

    That plastic piece of molding under the bumper, which I understand directs air into the radiator, is constantly being scraped. I had to replace it 5 months ago. Do the new 2001-2 have this problem?

    I find it odd that the DC player gets so hot - and so do the ODs when you've got your heat on.

    I will be taking my first big trip in my Aurora within a week. Its my 31st reunion in Rockville, MD. I only wish I had time in my schedule to deal with the air filter and weatherstripping, we'll see.

    I just put 4 new tires, a balancing, a new battery, and new front brakes. The tire mechanic said my rear (air) shocks are leaking slightly, but there is no urgency to change them.

    Regards,

    Aurorabill
  • zinc1zinc1 Posts: 133
    Aurorabill - Welcome! I agree about the cockpit, not to mention the 25hz serenity. The wind noise is very common. If water's getting in IMHO try an autoglass shop first, the dealer's expensive.

    To all - Well, if anyone's been around long enough to remember vwbus, aka Van Man, he just received the aROARa plates he's been waiting for months to get.

    Henri-
    Saw your Aurora on the road
    last night, on empty desert flats.
    Her searching foglights brightly shone,
    and, squinting at familiar slats,
    I heard her faint and sadly moan:
    "You know where Henri's at?"
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    You Auroraphiles sure are an eclectic and eloquent bunch!

    Henri - sorry to hear you've been Auroraless for so long - hope it soon returns home. Can't imagine being without my Bonnie for weeks on end.

    Aurorabill - Congrats on that beautiful car! Best wishes for many enjoyable years and miles of cruising.

    Ken
  • redskin024redskin024 Posts: 110
    Well, i have been to a couple other boards and there sure is a difference between them on how people talk about their cars. I can say definitely that Aurora owners love their cars the most, and talk about it with the most passion. Nowhere else will you see the comment "the repair is gonna cost me $1500 for the third time this year, but im still going to keep it." I used to frequent the I30 board and what a yawn it was. All they talk about is how cheap they can get their I30.
  • zinc1zinc1 Posts: 133
    Aurorabill - The black-on-graphite is one of the nicest combinations. If you have any pictures I'd be happy to post them. I've heard that the K&N filter will cause a fault in the computer, which you can fix by disconnecting the battery to reset the computer. But it does add a little HP. I bought my Aurora for 12k too, but it added up fast until I got a good warranty (oops, sorry again, Henri). I doubt anyone has attempted putting the 4.6L in place of the 4.0L because the 4.0 barely fits as is. But you can check out RSM for performance mods, I think they're based in Canada. Don't know about the plastic molding under the 2K1s, but I just ordered one today for my 96. The temp goes up 10-30 degrees in Summer if it gets knocked off. The heat on the CDs might be related to an airflow leak from the center vent (the one to the left of the glovebox), it's not very well sealed and I've had mine out a few times for leaking, or no air (oddly, my CD is now very cool and I have the AC on for Summer). But I've also heard of people changing the CD player as many as three times - I have once.
    Let us know how she does on the trip.
  • joeoldsjoeolds Posts: 39
    Welcome Aurorabill... I don't think you have to worry about setting a code with the K&N air filter. My 98 Aurora never set a code in the in the 7 months its been installed. It is a very simple install (takes 10-15 minutes). The biggest thing is the $50+ price tag. Its the same filter that fit my 95 88 Olds. (Had I known that I would have pulled the K&N out before we traded for the Aurora.) Anyway it is not a real noticeable difference in performance, but what can you expect for $50.

    Zinc....Its good to here about VWBus, I was beginning to think he disappeared into the Aurora void.

    Henri..... I guess Im glad I don't have warranty gold. Hopefully warranty direct will be easier to work with in time of need. I still have till february of 2002 on factory warranty. I think if I were in your situation warranty gold might have one less administrator (My constant hounding, whinning and being generally obnoxious would cause him/her to resign)
  • In reply to #1298: fuel usage indicated by my DIC is fairly consistent at 5% less than the pump says. Miles per gallon is high by the same 5%. I've owned my '97 for almost 2 years and have kept meticulous records. So, is the computer inaccurate or are all those gasoline pumps I've been visiting ripping me off?
  • After trying unsuccessfully several times to program my '97 Aurora's universal transmitter to operate a Craftsman garage door opener with rolling codes, I called HomeLink for help. The technician told me that early '97s are not HomeLink compatible, even though the owner's manual and factory service manual lead one to believe they are. He said only transmitters with the HomeLink logo (a house) would work with rolling codes. I looked at the '97 Aurora sales brochure last night and found a curious statement to the effect that one of the three frequencies could be assigned to HomeLink. Have any of you been able to program a '97 Aurora transmitter to work rolling codes? What color and shape is your indicator light? Mine is round and red. The Olds parts book lists '97 transmitters with yellow, triangular indicators. List is $202. I want to be able to use my built-in UGD transmitter, but that price is a bit steep. I'm hoping I might be able to find one in salvage yard. Does anyone know if the '98 and '99 transmitters will fit in a '97?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    We have had a very rousing discussion on whehter you can put the 4.6 in the Aurora. The result was inconclusive. Today I went to the Caddie drive-off competition. A guy I met there stated that he thought (IMHO) the Caddie would be a striaght bolt in modification. The engine for the Caddie and the Aurora have the same overall size.

    However, one person posted to this board stated that the dealer had shown him an engine brace on the NorthStar that would cause the engine to sit too high in the compartment for the Auroara hood to close.

    The guy at the Caddie drive-off also stated that caddie increased the displacement of the Caddie by increasing the stroke. Therefore, if you really want to "upgrade" the engine you can put in the Caddie crank-shaft and the other parts to bring the liter size up to the 4.6L.

    Lets keep this dialog on putting in the Caddie engine going. I do want to make this mod but I want to talk with someone who has actually done it.

    Also, I would suggest putting the 2001 chrome rims on the Classic. I think it would give the car a nice look. If you do this mod, you will need new tires since the 2K1 chrome rims are 17".
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    I like to change the cupholders in my 95 classic. Has anyone tried to do it?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    The good thing is that the updated cupholders actually work! I actually have the part siting in my house. I got an update from another source and never used the one I brought.
  • I have a 97 A and am having some difficulties:

    1. Dual Aircondition only cooling on passenger side and back seat (South Texas heat is unbearable without A/C).
    2. Fuel gage is going up and down from full to empty (Randomly - Never know how much fuel I have . . .)
    3. Headlights are blinking on and off - had to take the Headlight breaker and fuse out in order make it stop. Found black box located under dash, and replaced that, but it did not fix. Hope it is not a switch ($363 just for the part)

    Like my A, but am looking forward to buying a larger vehicle (i.e. Ford Expedition possibly).

    Any feedback would be great.

    Thanks, Bib Tex
  • i hope i can help clarify a few questions about the aurora and the Northstar engines.
    both the Aurora V8 and the Northstar V8 use the same stroke. the difference between the two is the bore of the cylinders, which is 89mm on the Aurora, and 93mm on the Caddie motor. so it's not necessary to change the crank, just bore out the Aurora by 4mm and you'd have yourself a 4.6L engine.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I agree with you. Howevr, the motorTrend guy was positive that GM changed the liter size by increasing the stroke no the bore. However, I had been operating under the understanding that GM used metal sleeves to decrease the Bore size on the Aurora engine.

    I would suggest that you verify by part number the crank shaft between the two engines to eliminate the inrease in stroke possiblity.

    I was also told that it is not a simple thing to just bore out the 4.0 because f how the metal sleeves were used. Whether the source was saying it was the bore or the storke, each said that I am better off finding a wrecked seville and puting the engine in the Aurora.

    Not withstanding the "fuzzy numbers", I hope it is a little clearer now.
  • I, too, am interested in more power. I have thought about swapping in the 4.6l Northstar and have followed the lack of knowledge about what will or will not work.

    First, the fuzzy numbers: from car mags I have the stroke of both Olds and Caddie as 84.0mm. Bore for the Aurora is 87.0mm while the Northstar is 93.0mm. Know nothing about stated problem of boring out the Aurora. All three engines have 10.3-to-1 compression ratio and require 91-octane gasoline.

    I know of two versions of the 4.6-liter Northstar engine: 275hp in the Seville SLS and 300hp in the Seville STS; I think the deVille has the same 300hp as STS. I have tried without success to find out what makes the difference between the Cad 275hp and 300hp engines. If you compare them to the Aurora engine by dividing horsepower by displacement, the Aurora fits neatly in the middle -- 60hp/l, 63hp/l and 66hp/l. Not a significant difference and therefore no technology in the higher horsepower Cad engines to benefit our Auroras.

    I suspect that swapping either Northstar for a good Aurora engine is a very expensive way to increase power (even assuming it can be done without or compensating for the suggested engine mount problems). A free-flowing exhaust may be a better power-per-dollar modification. Does anyone have real experience?

    I've also chased the elusive computer performance chip without success. Anyone had a positive experience?

    Has anyone experimented with cold-air / ram-air induction? I haven't found any manufacturer that lists anything for Aurora -- except K&N replacement for the stock air filter, which I installed first week I owned my Aurora. Also, I removed that appendage to the air intake, which I assume to be a silencer (I have never considered quietness a virtue in my cars). Made a plug out of pvc tubing parts to plug the hole. Recently I inserted a remote thermometer (inexpensive Radio Shack) to measure the intake air temperature. WOW -- in stop-and-go traffic the temperature of the intake air is 30 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit over what the instrument panel indicator shows for outside temperature. If stopped on a hot day, the thermometer goes over 156 degrees F, which is the maximum it will indicate.

    I'm thinking of adding a duct under the bumper on the driver side to force outside air toward the stock air box. I'm also eying the driver side fog light opening as an excellent air intake. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    BTW, if you haven't figured it out by now, I'm trying to relive the glory days of the 4-4-2 W30s of the late '60s and '70.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    I have been following the discussion on improving the Aurora performance. I've got a bunch of comments - here goes:

    1. The caddy 4.6 and the Aurora 4.0 are virtually the same except for the bore. All the literature confirms this. The comment about just boring the cylinders out a bit more might be valid. The block is the same I believe. I'm not sure about any changes to the heads or if those are the same as well. I'd definitely upgrade the air intake to feed the bigger cylinders and use the caddy exhaust system if it different from the Aurora. I think a lot of the small differences in the various northstar HP/cubic inch output is due to differences in the air intake, exhaust, and small changes in the computer tuning. They do that on purpose to make it worth spending the money for the higher performance model. I've also read car reviews that noted a 5 HP increase over last year's model from an improvement to the air intake box.

    2. Superchips has or at one time did have a performance chip for the 1995 Aurora. It supposedly added 20 HP and 33 to the torque. However, starting in 1996, GM changed the computer (OBD1 it is called I think) such that replacing a chip is not possible. Instead, a "microtuner" is needed to download the stock program and replace it with the performance program. You can go back to stock at any time. Unfortunately, they have not come up with a microtuner for the northstar engines. I've talked to 3 people there and 2 said that it is being looked into, but is a low priority and one said no-way. With the increasing number of northstars out there each year, I hope it happens. What all of us Aurora owners (and Caddy too)can do, is call superchips and show some interest. It might help. The number is 407-260-0838. Keep checking back every 3 months too. Call! They have these things for other GM cars with the "newer" computer. They even make these things for Ford Escorts for crying out loud, so you would think these wonderful cars would be considered.

    3. I put the K&N in and I think it is a little better. No computer problems. I swear I'm getting about 2 mpg better on the highway with it. They confidently claim a 2 to 4% HP increase, so you are getting 5 to 10 more HP. That's great for less than $100.

    4. RSM racing (rsmracing.com) makes an air induction system for the Aurora. It is basically a K&N FIPK kit (if K&N were to make an induction system for the Aurora). It replaces the air box and utilizes a K&N cone filter on the end of the induction pipe. The air box on the Aurora is a piece of crap in my opinion. The air enters the box through a few small ports and is basically pushed through one end of the panel filter thus limiting the full use of the filter area. I think the induction system system would help greatly. Maybe 15 HP. (Crankandchrome.com did an air induction on a 2000 Corvette and it added 21 HP at the rear wheels on the dyno! - that's about 28 HP at the engine!) On the Aurora, it is supposed to pull air up through the opening left my the removed air box.

    5. RSM also makes a performance exhaust system including a supersized catalytic converter. However, a seemingly knowledgable guy at the dealer said that reducing the back pressure can sometimes "evacuate" the cylinders prematurely and you could lower the low-end torque output. High-end HP would go up, but you may be slower off the line. Who knows, RSM did not dyno test this individual improvement to see what happens. They told me they dyno'd an Aurora with the air induction, the larger throttle body and the exhaust, and it put out 289 HP. Call a Caddy dealer and ask about the exhaust system. How is it different from the Aurora?

    6. I think I'll do the air induction from RSM and hope for the chip someday. The two together should give you 280 to 285 HP and over 300 torque. That should just about match any Lexus 400 and if you have an Autobahn, you will probably be quicker. Of course you always look better in a beautiful Aurora. Make sure you tell the chip people of any other improvements you have made so they can custom tune it - otherwise it won't work right. Let's hope for the chip/microtuner.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Hey BLK97Aurora.

    I've got a black 98. Go over it with Meguires mirror glaze No.7. Rub it in good. Then use their gold class liquid wax. It will look like a wet piece of candy. If you work the glaze in good, it will remove all the micro scratches that accumulate and make it look hazy - especially a black car.

    Your thing about the air temp was really cool. Thanks. When stopped, it doesn't matter, but I hope those temps went down when you started moving.

    My only concern with the RSM racing air induction is that you would pull too much hot air off the engine. RSM says no, and I guess it depends on how much or how well air will flow up the opening created by the removed air box. K&N told me you drop 1 HP per 40 degrees of air temp. The air temp is a concern of mine with that air induction system.
  • zinc1zinc1 Posts: 133
    Don't have one, but Jetchip.com says they're offering a PCM for the 96-99 Aurora. Costs $259.99. Power increase at wheels is estimated at 12-14hp. The part number is 68003.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Thanks Rex, I knew my Aurora missed me.

    OH where did it go?
    When I need it on the road
    And the perfect story ended at the SHOP

    I thought we would drive forever
    but warranty gold kept us apart

    Left hanging on
    On the chance my repair would be approved

    How could a car repair
    Turn out to take sooo looooong

    ---- Thank you Gibb brothers (Bee Gees)
    For those of you not old enough to remember, think Saturday Night Fever soundtrack
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