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Oldsmobile Aurora



  • s2261s2261 Posts: 14
    We are thinking of trading our classic for something new(er). Ours is a 98/Autobahn. It has 63k on it. I'm thinking about a 2K1. To those who have driven both: Will I like it? I don't need to squeal tires or race. I just like to drive it. I'm thinking the 3.5 will be adequate. I drove one this weekend and it was nice. The interior is very comfortable. Thoughts?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I thought the back pressure issue was more an issue with 4 cylinder engines. I thought the V8's did not have this problem. From what I remember (it has been awhile), the Aurora is not a 0-60mph car to begin with. I would not want to do anything to slow it down further. Somehow, 0-60 in 10.3 secs does not sound appealing.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    18) You carry a micrometer to the Cadillac Drive Competition so that you can crawl under the cars and measure the thickness of the Caddie Seville sway bars compared to the ones on your 99 Classic. (This was not Me but someone I met outside in the parking lot that drove his Aurora to the Drive Off.)
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Yes, I know his name but he said he may check out our little board here and I did not want him to see us talking about him already. :-)
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Henry - you have a good point. The dealer did mention that lowering the back pressure lowered the low-end torque with a honda accord. Trouble is, that RSM exhaust system was not specifically dyno'd. It replaces the 2 1/2" converter with a 3" one - that's a big change. Who knows what it really does. $900 is a lot of money for something that might possibly hurt performance. I want to see the dyno curves. I'm really curious what the caddy has.
  • Hey all,

    I'm back...Got my AroarA here in Portland now and I am enjoying the summer months here. So far, no trouble. Maybe a little trouble starting when it's warm...Any ideas?

    Zinc---You post those photos on your site yet?
  • vwbus:
    sounds to me like it's your fuel pressure regulator.

    to the guys wanting more performance:

    i'm enjoying the conversation, and i'm thinking of going the RSM air induction route myself. i work in the sheet metal department of a decent sized manufacturing shop, and i am planning on fabricating a ram-air scoop to pull cold fresh air from underneath and funnel it right to that huge K&N filter. with the correct venturi shape,and alot of luck i will gain a few psi of boost to feed those 8 cylinders.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    BLK97Aurora - If you ever decide to replace the air box with the RSM racing induction system, I'd be VERY interested in what that remote temperature reading is in the vicinity of the filter.

    Autobahn95 - your underneath scoop idea sounds really interesting. If you do it and you are really happy with it, I'd be interested in implementing your system on my Aurora. If you have the 95, call superchips. They might have the chip for your car. It's listed on their web site. I think you have to send them your chip and get a rental car. If you call, let us know what happens. Remember to tell them you are ramming some air so they can custom tune it.
  • Greg,

    Thanks for your interest and support.

    Air box temp goes down very slowly; that's why I want to do something about it. Part of the slow reduction in temperature after getting up to speed after sitting in traffic may have to do with my measuring system. Still, when you want to beat that 5.0, 528, or Lxs at a light, every little bit helps. I have a vague memory of reading 1% loss in hp per 10 degree (F or C?) rise in temp; I'll have to look into this more.

    I appreciate your excellent information on performance mods. I will contact Superchips.

    Peter Lute,

    I am interested in your ideas about air scoops. My initial thought was to keep the stock air box and to feed it cooler, higher pressure air from under the bumper or through the fog light opening. Hood scoops are not an option for me. Maybe replacing the stock air box is good idea. I want to be careful about not picking up water.
  • Thanks for all of your comments on my first posting.

    Little things that I love about my Aurora:

    - Carpets are so plush and even thou my car has 93K, they look almost new

    - Seats so comfortable that in trips up to 3 hours I still feel comfortable. I'm about to try nearly 6 hours - Bergen COunty, NJ to Montgomery Co, MD. At one time (early-to-mid 60s) I used to be able to make it in 4.5 hours.

    - A trunk which has those out-of-the-way hinges. There appear to be 2 hydraulic and one mechanical, per side.

    - That temperature outside is useful and very accurate 98% of the time. I impress friends when I drive by a bank which displays the temperature and then display mine and its only one degree different!

    - The steering wheel is the best I have put my hands on. When I test drive a 94 SLS, it wasn't nearly as nice even though they were both padded leather.

    - Seat adjustments on the door (Instead of at the side of the seat cushion.

    - The performance button the the side of the shift lever - when pushed in and activated - gives me just the right amount of 'rev' before shifting.

    Now, a comment on the rear window. I can't see what people are complaining about. I work with lenses, optics and have a trained eye (in my job)and if a magazine article hadn't pointed it out, I wouldn't have noticed. It is very subtle compared to if there were no glass in it!

    Oops, let me ask you about this problem. My gas cap latch won't open unless I go into the trunk. I had it replaced 9 months ago! Suggestions??

    Aurorabill (4 days til countdown)
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    has fallen off due to this 95 degree heat. I cannot remove the little plate to replace back on the window. This mirror does not have a little set screw to take plate off of mirror like I am use to seeing. Any suggestions?
  • rocket95rocket95 Posts: 13

    I recently had a problem with fuel filler door not opening on my '95. It was due to excessive side load being applied by the fuel filler door hinge spring. Small clip type spring located on the left side of the filler door. By compressing the spring a tiny bit (bending)- it exerted less pressure on the selenoid plunger and the door opened okay. If you had rather use the scientific approach. I think the specs call for a 10mm gap (+/- 0.5mm). This all assumes that your selenoid is working.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    The dealer tells me that thte warranty goal adjuster came and looked at the disassembled transmission. The dealer described it as a pleasant experience in which the adjuster agreeed with the dealership as to what needs to be done to fix the car. the dealership can not tell me what caused the problem because it is a question of what cause what to fail first (the old chicken or the egg question). However Mr. Zinc can rest assured that it was not my tendency for Warp-speed accelerations that caused the problem. So sir, feel free to continue to use only two gas pedal levels (100% up or 100% down).

    No matter what happens now, the earliest I might get her back is Monday of next week.
    Seven weeks with any Aurora. Okay, I'll admit it. I have restored to looking at pictures in magazine and the dealer brouchers I have. I have not done this since I was a teenager.

    Is it a ray of sunshine?
    a light at the end of the tunnel?
    a train coming the other way??

    Tune in next week boys and girls

    Same Bat Time
    Same Bat station
    Same Bat Board . . .
    (WHAM! . . . POW! . . . ZAP!)
  • zinc1zinc1 Posts: 133
    Congratulations, Henry, you broke the old record for the most consecutive weeks in the shop. The record was previously held by myself (valve job and water pump) and also by vwbus (rear window seal) at six weeks each. I wish there was a prize for it. Maybe a Right-to-Gripe award, since bragging rights doesn't really apply. Warranybynet picked up the whole $3k for my transmission. I'm curious how WG does on this.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I would like to thank all the little people at Warranty Gold that made this accomplishment possible.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    OK, I've been looking around, and I found some more info. on making that Aurora faster. Check out and
    There is a lot of interesting things about exhaust systems and superchargers for the northstar engine.

    I talked to (I think it was Bob) at extreme motor sports (see that second web site) and he agreed that replacing the catalytic converter may result in a bit too much drop in back pressure and low-end torque. They seem to do a lot of work with Caddys and even have some high performance Caddys for sale. He said they could probably make the same system for the Aurora as the Caddy, so I'm looking into this. It would be a "cat-back" system. I'll keep you posted.

    In addition, he said they DO NOT use any air induction systems on their high performance Caddys. He said they are not good due to the hot air off the engine. also had some test results of before and after HP for the installation of an air induction system for a 4.6 northstar. The air induction actually made the HP drop just a bit. So I guess it's best to stick with the K&N replacement filter and not mess with the RSM induction system.

    There was also some discussion on one of the links at one of the sites about cutting a hole in the bottom of a box that supplies air to the bottom of the air box (on a 4.6) for more air flow. You have to read it for yourself. Anyway, I really think an induction system fitted with a large tube over it that turns down to where the bottom of the air box is would actually work.
  • larryfllarryfl Posts: 214

    That is good news. Hope things continue smoothly and you're back in the saddle next week. Good luck!
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Bob at extreem motor sports informed me that the difference between the 275 HP and 300 HP 4.6 L northstars is a different cam and different heads. It's not due to diffrent tuning as I thought.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539

    The link will take you to the northstar power curves for both engines. Tuning does include timing differences for valves as well as intake manifold variations.

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