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Oldsmobile Aurora

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  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I am finally starting to see the 1999 Auroras for sale as used cars. NOW I just need to find a fully loaded triple Black one (for $12,000) and I will be happy.
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    Hey there buddy - going for another Aurora? Good for you!!

    I've been seeing 2001s lately. In fact the dealer where I bought my Bonneville last year has a 2K1 same color as yours for $17.5K. I sat in it and loved the car. Maybe in a couple years I'll go for a 2K2 4.0 myself.

    Take care

    Ken

    P.S. I may meet Chuck on Sunday Mar 3 on my way home from Pa. Going to be around?

    Ken
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I don't believe the Bose option can be had with the navigation radio. Did you order it with both? I had a Bose stereo in my 1987 Corvette, and I got it in the Aurora and have been very impressed with both. I find the Monsoon systems to be overly bassy. They are loud, but not very clean. The Bose systems sound very clean to me, and higher range sounds really sparkle.

    The DIC doesn't have a clock because there is a very prominent one on the non-navigation radios. The car was not designed with the nav in mind, so this is probably why it seems sort of "add-on" rather than well-integrated. I have to say, for me your comments reinforce my decision not to get the nav system. I don't like trunk cd-changers, I love the Bose system, and nav systems tend to be annoying when you have to use the touch screen for radio or (not in the Aurora) climate control buttons.

    I'm glad you are satisfied with all the rest, though. I really love mine. That exhaust sound is great, and I love the interior. Especially the wood and the two-tone color. My only complaint is that the trunk feels so cheapy when you open and close it.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    I too love the Bose in the 98. I think I did hear something too about the Bose not coming with the navigation.

    From what I've heard about the nav. systems, I don't think I would want it either. Just give me a good map.

    Henry - I'm sure you could order any new interior piece you want. Just call the parts department. I've replaced the lens over the spedo and tach just to get rid of the old scratchy one. I haven't seen any Aurora's with the paint coming off the interior dials. Good luck with a 99. I'll bet there are some great deals to be had. Look for an Autobahn if you can too. I don't know about 12k for a 99 unless it had a lot of miles. I wouldn't use e-bay as a gauge either. Anybody that has gone used car or even house shopping knows you really have to "see it" to know what is going on. Even a scratched up, dinged up car that is getting ratty on the inside will look nice in a photo if it's been washed. I really wonder about some of those e-bay cars. Just for fun, I would run the VIN through carfax (when I got my car) and some of those e-bay cars were indeed restored cars that had a salvage title.

    QUESTION for "new" Aurora owners. What does the owners manual say for the torque on the lug nuts on the 17 inch wheels? Sometime this spring/summer I will be putting my new chrome Aurora 17's on the 98 when I get new tires. It's probably 100 ft-pounds, but I just wanted to check. I believe this will look very cool on the classic.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    The torque rating is 100 lb-ft for the wheel lug nuts on the 2002 4.0. Is that the same as on your classic? Do the wheels have the same offset and bolt pattern? It should look cool with the 17"ers. The only thing that bothers me is that the wheels are directional (although only slightly) but there isn't a different wheel for the left side and right side. I realize that would prevent side-to-side rotation, but it also means that the wheel spokes appear to curve forwards on one side of the vehicle, but backwards on the other side. That bugs me a little bit.

    Jephjeph, I'm pretty certain that the Navigation radio will replace the Bose radio. If you have the Bose, you should have "U1F" listed on the build sheet (under the spare tire cover). If you have the Navigation radio, it will be "UM8" and if you have both, then both should be there. I can *almost* guarantee that you can't have both.

    I thought it was a little weird in a previous post when someone asked how to remove the labels on their new Aurora. However, the more I look at the back, the more I want to remove the "Oldsmobile" label. If it weren't there, the rear would be very symmetric (except for the keyhole). Plus, it looks sort of tacked on and doesn't really match the styling or size of the "Aurora 4.0" or the Aurora symbol. I don't want to pretend it isn't an Olds, but I am starting to think it would look cleaner without the badge.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    rjs - yeah, I checked with the dealer first thing. Everything is the same. The classic is 100 lbs as well. I just add an extra 2 to be safe, and if that can hurt anything, then that is some really sensitive equipment. I ask because my buddy has a 95 chevy truck that takes 95 lbs. I guess it can be different from car to car.

    I never thought about the look of the rotation thing, but I think you might have a point. That's a little weird.

    I really think it will look tough on a black classic. They should have come out with those wheels years ago at least as an optional upgrade.
  • Henry,

    I've been thinking along the same lines -- '99 with low miles and remaining warranty. My '97 has been good to me so far (73 000 miles), but the price of repairs scares me.

    For an Aurora, what does triple black mean? I understand black exterior and black interior, but what is the third black? I prefer the gray interior because it seems cooler in the summer.
  • Greg,

    Interesting about the deletion of front grease fittings during the '98 model year.

    I finally found a used intake airbox ($23 plus shipping) and expect to receive it within a couple of days. Yesterday I looked at my parts microfiche and was surprised to see that the '95 airbox lists for $408, while the '96 to '99 lists for $134. That's one heck of a difference!

    I studied your dyno results on the caddyinfo site. I'm puzzled that the improved hp with the K&N drops to zero at 5800 PM. Do you understand why? I would think the extra airflow would be even more important at higher RPMs. I wonder if there is something about the K&N that reduces airflow at higher speeds.

    Anybody planning to bid on the IRL engine on eBay? :,) Auction starts at $45 000 -- only 375 miles.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Did you remove the badges from your new car? How did it go? I think I am going to remove the "Oldsmobile" text from the back of mine. I really think it looks out of place. Do you have any tips? Thanks!
  • daevendaeven Posts: 28
    I've been slacking lately, but I rolled 199K miles yesterday. I've been working out of my local office, so I'm only putting 12 miles on each day. It may take me a couple of months to hit 200K at this rate.

    For those of you who don't remember, I bought the car with 150K miles. I just called the dealership that serviced it for those 150K miles and asked for a copy of the service records. I'll post next week so you know what parts a 200K Aurora can go through.

    My car also has lost the paint on the steering wheel controls. I'll be interested in replacing the buttons if it is easy and economical.

    Regarding fixing the shift indicator light: be careful when pulling the shift lever off; I managed to break the normal/agressive trans button wiring.

    Dan/Chicago 'burbs
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Blk97 - The first graph shows the power gain from adding just the K&N vs a clean paper filter. The air box was stock for those two runs. It shows about +6 1/2 or 7 HP at the high RPM's, and 1 to 3 HP in the 4,000's.

    The second graph shows the power gain just from the modified air box (I think that is the one you are puzzled by). Both runs on the second graph used a K&N, the only difference was the air box. It's stock vs modified.

    On the second graph you are right. No HP past 5,800 or whatever (no added torque either). It is very interesting to say the least. Evidently, at the higher RPM's the air flow characteristics of the modified air box are no better than stock. Therefore the better box gives you no added peak HP but still adds more peak torque down in the 4,000's.

    That's what sent me grinding away all those inner flanges and air flow obstructions inside the box after the initial modifications. But the dyno proved that the added effort did not matter.

    My theory is that the flow characteristics of the modified box are such that they cause turbulence at the extreme high end that negates any added air flow so the flow equalizes back to stock.

    HOWEVER, the modified air box does add more HP going up the curve. It actually adds a little more power than the K&N in the 4,000's, and between 4,600 and 4,850 or 4,900, it adds as much as perhaps 8 HP. It changes the shape of the curve.

    Adding the two is really nice. Adding the granatelli MAF seems to give even more.

    Anyway - DON'T bother with all the intricate extra cutting like I did. Just open the bottom hole to match the bottom hole in the metal, and remove the top liner. That's it. You will have 99.9 % of what I got from all the extra work.

    The 95 air box is a little different, and therefore costs more I guess. I'd bet a 96-99 box would fit a 95 though.

    Final note - I need to call extreme motor sports about that northstar cold air induction again. I hope they do this. Maybe it will fit an Aurora. The one thing the air box mod doesn't help with is that hard 90 out of the top. That thing is a strangler I bet. A truly designed performance induction would perhaps add a few more HP on top of the box mods. Maybe more.

    Let me know if this clears things up.
  • So yes, I did de-badge it. So far I've just removed the "Oldsmobile" logo, and I'm plotting the remainder.

    I was originally thinking of moving the 4.0 logo to the top right corner, but while easy to remove, I don't think it'd be easy to re-attach.

    I used the dental floss to "cut" the foamy part, and then removed the remaining half with my fingernail. After applying tar remover, it looked perfect.

    Now to just get the grease pen marks off my tail lights as it came from the dealer that way... (!)

    I also Zaino'd my seats with leather in a bottle. The seats are now softer and protected. Zaino is the best.
  • Anybody know what the size and impedance of the stock speakers are?

    These suckers aren't long for this world, I'm sure.

    Also, what's the output of the nav radio?
  • I posted a similar message to the "Care & Maintenance" discussion a week ago. So far only one response (thank you rjs200240). C&M has not seen much action. I plan to post several other maintenance-related messages in the next few days; maybe we can get C&M rolling.

    When I started looking for the right replacement spark plug for my '97, I was surprised to find four answers for AC spark plug number and two answers for spark plug gap. Here's what I found:

    owner manual AC 41-929 0.050
    service manual AC 41-900 0.050
    parts microfiche AC 41-950 ----
    emissions label ----- 0.060
    #4 cylinder AC 41-947 0.053

    I think the emissions label is most likely to be accurate. Unfortunately it does not specify the plug number. My car has 73 000 miles and likely has the original plugs; I bought it at 37 000 miles. So it looks like the plugs may have started with 0.050 gap.

    Do any of you know the correct spark plug to use? Also, does anyone know how to decode the AC numbers (heat range, tip projection, etc.)? I have searched the web with no worthwhile results.
  • blk97aurora

    Can't help much on a 97--I have a 95:

    The recommendation for the 95 was changed from the AC 900 to the AC929.
    The AC 929 with a ribless insulator was recommended for better boot
    retention. The spec for the 95 calls for a .050 (1.27mm) gap and a torque
    of 11 lbs.--a recommendation to use a wire gage (for more accurate results).

    I changed to AC Rapid Fire plugs for my Buick--will have to check to determine
    if they are available for and/or recommended for use in the Aurora.(Read a
    note which cautioned against using plugs with a heat range not recommended for my
    particular engine--indicated that severe engine damage could result.)
  • I'm pretty sure Olds designed the 4.0 engine so they would have a racing engine in a "real" car platform to try to connect racing to their regualr cars. I'm almost positive the 4.0 size was an IRL requirement, so my guess is that the difference in size has something to do with that.
  • Hey - in case you didn't get my e-mail, my addy is ryan@shucknet.com - really interested in the rotors.
  • fredvhfredvh Posts: 853
    I am new to this board but I need some information from Oldsmobile Aurora or Intrigue owners of late model years. I am considering these two along with Lexus ES300, Buick Regal, Acura TL, Infiniti, and Toyota Camry. I have owned imports in the past and am very leary of going back to American cars because of the question of dependability. I would like some imput from late model Aurora owners(new style) and Intrigue owners concerning the dependability or lack-there-of in their cars. I would like gas mileage figures concerning the 3.5l engine. I also would like to know what the RPM figure is on the 3.5l engine at 70mph. I have also heard that one cannot change the battery without taking several other things apart first. Is this true?
  • The battery is in the back seat. Removal is pretty easy, at least I think so.

    I can't answer the rest of your questions; I've got a 4.0!

    re: dependability: it's got a 5 year, 60k warranty. I think that's excellent!

    I haven't had enough cars to ever experience a bad GM car.

    88 Buick LeSabre, 220k miles, only added oil & gas & tires, + regular tuneups.
    98 Trans Am, 64k miles, rear differential (warranty),
    02 Oldsmobile Aurora: nothing yet! (knock on wood)
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    That is interesting about the 4.0 size. However, Olds didn't get involved in IRL until 1997. The Aurora V-8 did compete in IMSA before IRL, but I'm not sure when, or what the engine requirements were for that. Also, the current IRL engine size limit is 3.5 liters, and they didn't downsize the passenger car version of it. I think I would subscribe to the theory that they didn't want to upstage Cadillac, and possibly that it was a little cheaper to produce.

    Fredvh: You might check out posts in the 2000-2010 area and the 2200-2210 area. You will find some comparo info that has already been tossed around. As far as the battery, it is under the rear seat. However, how often do you plan on changing it? Don't know about the 3.5 cruising rpms because I have a 4.0. Same goes for mileage. I want to say it is around 2000 rpms at about 60-65 mph for the 4.0, and I can easily get 20 mpg in city-type driving if I am easy on it. Otherwise about 17-18 when I drive enthusiastically. I don't do much highway driving, but I can get about 26+ while on the highway. Driving style makes a difference, though. The 4.0 and 3.5 have different final-drive ratios, but they also have different transmissions.

    Personally I think the Aurora smokes the ES300 for luxury and performance for the buck. And I think the ES and Camry are pretty unattractive. I can't get over the hideous gauges in the Camry. I don't care much for the wood coloring in the ES. The Camry has gauges inside gauges, so it is possible for needles to intersect. What the heck were they thinking?? The Regal GS is really an incredible performer. My dad has a 97 and I have raced him in my 87 Corvette a few times. It was quite close. That Regal can lay down a pretty serious rubber patch too. However, I think the Intrigue is a bit more refined and I like the styling a bit better (if only the spoiler and chrome wheels weren't included on the GLS).
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    If you're going to be reselling or trading in the car within the next 5 years, I'd avoid Olds entirely - resale values are pretty low (to the point where most leasing companies won't even touch an Olds - not that I'm a big fan of leasing, at least not for me).

    The new Aurora (especially later 2001 and all 2002) seems to be relatively defect-free. Earlier Intrigues had problems with steering/brakes, but GM, as they always do, fixes the bugs (right before they kill the car - see the Fiero). There's still an alternator issue (flickering lights - see the Intrigue board).

    The 3.5 has been out since the middle of the '99 model year, with no major recall or quality issues. Of course, it won't be made after the '02 model year, meaning the Intrigue and the Aurora 3.5 will end production as well (the Aurora 4.0 is supposed to soldier on for another year, but, with sales as low as they are, GM may axe the whole thing earlier than planned).

    Just because something won't be made any longer isn't a reason not to buy it (can't buy a 2000 Camry any longer, can you? Doesn't mean it's not a bad car, or that parts aren't available). The pricing (relative to the Camry/ES300) and warranty are excellent, and, again, if you're going to keep this car for 5+ years, and don't have high resale expectations, you shouldn't pass up an Olds.

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
    (98 Aurora Classic black/black/chromes/Autobahn/Bose :-)
  • 1. Brilliant silver 2001 Aurora with 19,000 miles and 3.5 liter V-6 engine.

    2. I just completed a 2300 mile round trip to south Florida over a two week span. 750 miles down, 800 miles around town, 750 miles back. Total fuel efficiency of 24.5 mpg on 87 octane from all different brands of gasoline. Highway speeds of 60 mph - 78 mph depending on posted limits. Occasional passing speeds of 80+ mph without any problem. Air conditioner on for almost the entire trip. Tire pressure at recommended 30 psig.

    3. Maintenance has included switch to synthetic oil around 1500 miles, regular oil changes every 7500 miles, and tire rotation. Problems so far include an occasional low moan from the power steering unit (dealer technician can reproduce, but doesn't know what it is, and advises that unit is within spec, and doesn't consider it a safety hazard - so, I'm not worried), and one burned out rear fog lamp, which I hope to get changed under warranty. I went over the car with a fine tooth comb, and found no delivered defects - paint almost perfect, fit and finish very good, all systems operating per the owner's manual. Oh, yes, one minor delivered defect - the plastic window for the DIC (Drivers Information Center) at the top of the center stack has a few bubbles in it - - not noticeable except to a man in love with his car.

    4. Personal opinion - - I love my car! Not one minute of buyer's remorse. Looked at the Lincoln LS and the Buick LeSabre and the Pontiac Bonneville. All good cars, but this one seemed to fit me the best for now. I'd buy another one tomorrow if I could afford it. (Wife might have a problem with me having two big boy toys at once.)

    Ken
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    FREDVH - one thing to consider is the growing realization that Toyota/Lexus apparently has a serious design issue that can contribute to sludge formation in the engine. Here is a link to the story. I don't know if this issue concerns brand new stuff on the lot right now.

    http://www.autonews.com/article.cms?articleId=38302


    The only thing I'd add to the story is that while a car may not be showing any signs of being affected by sludge, it may still have some lesser amount of accumulation which is enough to turn me off.


    If you do go Toyota/Lexus, I'd use synthetic oil ALL the time to be safe.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Can any of you tell me the issue with premium fuel and the possible formation of deposits due to its use in the older Northstar engines? I've seen this issue on Cadillac boards. I've called Caddy dealers and they say they have not heard of this. Would/could this affect the older 4.0?? If so, wouldn't using a fuel injector cleaner periodically prevent this on parts that are exposed to the fuel like the injectors and valves?

    Also - I'm considering having the fuel injectors, throttle body, etc cleaned by the local GM dealer with some special product they have. I can't remember the name of the product.

    Is this OK?? Or am I just as well off regularly using fuel injector cleaners (every 3,000 to 5,000 miles) and then just having the throttle body butterfly separately cleaned??

    Is there something better or special about what the dealer does????

    I'm anticipating an oil change being needed shortly after they would do this if a lot of debris were released into the engine.

    What do you think???
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Rocket3_50: Are the bubbles on the DIC there because there is a protective plastic sheet on it? I believe the display (as are most LCDs) is glass, not plastic. You might see if the protectant sheet just needs to be removed (like when you buy a watch or a clock).

    Garnes: I've never heard of premium fuel leaving more deposits. It usually has more detergents in it to combat deposits. This is part of why it costs more. If you use regular fuel, then you might need injector cleaner. As far as cleaning the throttle body, you can do that yourself with throttle-body cleaner. All the crud will either run out the front of the throttle body (some newspaper under the mouth will catch ith, unless you plan on running the engine while using the cleaner) or will get burned off in the engine after you reassemble it and start the engine up. It will also help clean out the intake manifold. However, it mainly keeps the throttle body from gumming up and sticking. I doubt enough crud builds up to affect airflow at all. The crud is like a thin layer on the walls of everything. It isn't thick or chunky or anything. More like a haze. There are some injector cleaners that involve hooking up a pressurized canister to the fuel line. This might work better than a fuel additive, but that doesn't mean that is what the dealer will do.

    I would ask what exactly they will do first. If they don't do anything special, then just do it yourself. Cleaning the throttle body is a breeze, and you can make sure you get everything off. You might try gently brushing it with a toothbrush or something if it is real dirty.

    If you use premium fuel, I wouldn't worry about using injector cleaner all that often. I would be a bit worried about what that stuff does to an engine when used so often. Gasoline has certain standards to be approved by the auto makers association (can't remember the exact name) while those additives don't have to meet anything except the requirement to catch a person's eye in the store, and have claim enough miracles to get you to buy it. It isn't that I don't think some of them do what they say, but I wouldn't use one every 3,000 miles in my car...

    Fredvh: We could probably be more helpful if you explained what some of the priorities are for you. What do you want the car to do most? Be fun? fast? luxurious? look nice? impress people? be cheap? haul people? No car can be everything to everyone, so we could help your decision with some more facts. The Aurora drives great. The engine performs, and the sound is awesome. The interior is the best I've seen. However, the Intrigue (and other cars) is more sensible because it is cheaper, and can be had with many of the same features like stability control and heated seats and such, plus it is cheaper and has more trunk space, fold-down rear seats, and similar interior room (slightly less). What are you looking for?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I have not had any problems with my car lately. Maybe the 60,000 mile mini maintenace explosion is over.

    Although, I still have trouble believing that there are only two of us losing paint from the pastic steering wheel buttons and housing. Since both of us are 95 Classics, are you guys telling me it is limited to that year?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Henry, maybe the 96 guys will have that problem next year, and 97's the year after that... :)
  • Have any of you guys noticed a significant power increase in 3rd gear? In my old Dodge Avenger it would not make a difference until it went to shift into OD but with my car I noticed that its different. On your way home put your aurora in 3rd in the city and see what you think.
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    Henry, I too have a 95 and the paint is chipping off the top left button. That makes 3 of us.
  • If you get Armour All or other cleaners on the paint on the buttons it will wear off. I had that happen to another GM car I had. Unless you find a junked car somewhere or want to pay the dealer for a new steering wheel....forget about it.
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