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Oldsmobile Aurora

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  • What happened to Aurorabyolds at Yahoo? It seems to have disappeared?
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    I just talked to extreme motor sports and they said they have an engineering company working on the induction now and it should be available soon.


    I hope it fits the Aurora. Unless it is a ton of money, I'll give it a try. If it fits right, it should be better than my air box modification. I'm pretty certain it will be cold/fresh air induction. Nothing pulling hot air off the engine. They said it will be dyno'd (with a caddy) so the gains for the Aurora should be easy to estimate. If it would add +10 HP at the wheels for an Aurora, I'll go for it. The K&N panel filter alone adds as much as 7, so if it had at least 3 more, I'd give it a try.


    Here is a link to XMS http://www.x-m-s.com


    Ask for Bob if you are interested.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I never use Armour All on the car. However, I do have a tendecy to rest my finger on the spot where there is the most paint loss. I wonder if it is my skin oils??

    I know the leather on my shifter kob was bad from resting my hand there when I drove. After replacing the handle, I no longer rest my hand there.

    Still, why didn't GM just use brown colored plastic and forget about painting the stupid part!!!

    Whoops, too simple. I should have known better.
  • I have a 99 aurora with 75K. I've noticed lately that the car rides rougher, sort of clunky, maybe something (bushing) is loose underneath? You literally feel every bump, even the paint they use for crosswalks (I'm not kidding!) It has some wheel vibration too...a slow pulsing from 45 to 50, goes away and then is replaced by typical wheel balance vibration from 55-85 (haven't gone much faster). I've since put 4 new rotors on, 4 new tires on, and done a 4 wheel alignment. I still get the vibration and rough ride. Here's the weird part...some days it is great, no vibration and not so rough. It seems a little better when real cold (sub 25), but this may be coincidence. Of course dealer says...."nothing's wrong...$65 for diagnosis" on more than one occasion. Any ideas?
  • One more thing. The vibration seems to come from the front driver side (maybe it just feels that way because I happen to sit there?). I had extremely bad wear on the outer band of the original tires before I replaced them, I don't drive hard...Dealer says it was the alignment but my brand new tires already have scuffs on the outer band that probably shouldn't be there.
  • I have the same problem regarding vibration. When I first purchased the car it was as smooth as glass. As it aged (1998) the ride has increasing gotten worse. I have had the dealer go through the suspension. Initially they told me that it was flat spots on my tires. I changed the tires and the problem continues.

    I have read a tech service bulletin that talks about a detailed spec regarding balancing and mounting the tires. It involves "clocking" the tires in order to eliminate the vibration between 60-75 mph.

    I have not had this done but it appears that the cars suspension set-up is overly sensitive to wheel balance.

    I can feel every bump in the road and have been thinking its time for new struts. Hate to spend the money if it won't cure the problem though.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I'm only taking a guess at your problem sbeaupre, but perhaps a strut is frozen (not literally frozen, but binding in place). That would explain it being incredibly rough sometimes, and then when it unbinds it would go back to being smooth. It's possible that it is less likely to bind up when cold since the metal is smaller and so tolerances are greater. Just an idea. You could try pushing down on the car at the corner that seems roughest and see if you can compress the strut.

    This might not be the case for aurich since you noticed a gradual degradation of ride quality. If a strut binds it isn't usually gradual.

    This is just an opinion, though. By trying to compress it, you could easily determine if this is what's happening without spending any money.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/bm/95-98aurora.htm


    Jephjeph: I went ahead and removed the "Oldsmobile" badge from the rear of my car. I did basically what you did except I sprayed some 3M release agent on the foam first. It suggests using it for body trim removal, but you shouldn't let it sit on the paint. It really made the foam peel off easier. I really think it looks better now. The Olds logo just didn't look right. It looks more at home on an Eighty-Eight or something than on the Aurora.

  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    rjs - thanks for getting me thinking about the "cleaner" aspect of a paint maintenance product. I called Meguires and they highly recommended the Scratch X used with the orbital buffer to help remove the irregular ring left by the crummy water spots. They said it has some good chemical cleaners in it. I am still doubtful, but will give this a try in the future. I'll let you know how it works. If it works, I'll be floored because those buggers seem like they are in there. They said their No. 2 cleaner was some really tough stuff but would leave swirls if not used with a high speed buffer - and those things are not as easy to use as the orbital. I could see a hole burned through really easy. I'm not going there for a relatively minor problem.

    Just a note - I've been following the Toyota/Lexus sludge thing a bit. It wasn't that long ago this site had the "American car - junk on wheels" thing going. Hmmmmmmmm. I wonder if those so eager to jump in and bash away have had their minds opened just a little.

    Probably not. I think that "mine is better than yours (I don't care what you say)" mentality is actually caused by a virus.
  • Henry - White-out on a toothpick might work since your just filling in the grooves. My problem is the lettering on the headlight/turn signal stalk, no grooves to follow as a guide. You are still practicing law and accounting are you not? Should have some old white-out around somewhere.

    rjs- Thanks for posting the article.

    other stuff - Anticipating the 139 club later this year when the weather warms up. Back in September just before buying the car, on the test drive I had it to 115 before I realized it!

    I keep trying to figure out why we love these classics so much....damn I've got the nicest car in town. I think its because they are 4door corvettes with all the cadillac toys.
  • fredvh, here's what I saw tonight with my uncalibrated eyeballs on the 3.5 liter Aurora:
    60 mph = 1900 rpm
    65 mph = 2000 rpm
    70 mph = 2100 rpm
    75 mph = 2200 rpm
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Garnes, I would steer clear of #2. That is a pretty hard-core product. I think it would be more appropriate for serious paint problems than for some little water spots. You are right that it could easily cause swirls or burning if you aren't Mr. Buffer. I still would recommend their Medallion cleaner because it is a chemical cleaner while I believe the Scratch-X probably has more (mild) abrasive in it. The Medallion has micro abrasives but they are small enough to be considered a non-abrasive product. I would think this would be better since there aren't scratches you need to remove, but rather a contaminant on top of the paint. Did you ask about the Medallion when you spoke to Meguiars? I've noticed they seem to have one product in mind sometimes unless you ask about the others. They seem to recommend their consumer products over their professional ones too. I guess the consumer products are more appropriate for most people, as well as easier to find in a store. If the Scratch-X is considered a non-abrasive, then I take it all back and I wouldn't bother with the Medallion as it is more expensive. Even if the Scratch-X is abrasive, I'm sure it is very mild and would certainly work fine. I just wanted to throw in my thoughts.

    Musclecar97, I hear you. I don't have the "classic" but I too think it is the best car for the money. It is high-tech, comfortable, sporty yet luxurious, and has an excellent engine. Plus, it isn't expensive, especially for what it is. I love my Aurora. I'm not sure what I'll do when it's time to get another car. Maybe I should buy a 2003, put it in storage, and then pull it out in ten years... Sometimes I want to stop people in their Acura's and Lexus' and Infiniti's, ask them what they were thinking, take them for a ride, and then tell them they missed out on a real luxury/performance bargain.

    I don't have $1000 I want to drop on a new exhaust, but I keep tossing it around in my mind. I'd like a bit more growl sometimes, but then I think how perfectly the exhaust note is tuned now. It has great balance between luxury silence and a performance growl.

    I love everything about my car. Every little feature and button is perfect. The sunroof is so quiet when open at 55mph that I can hardly believe it. The leather on the steering wheel and shifter feels incredible to my hands. I don't want to let go of them. I seriously find myself wanting to go out in the garage to touch them and rub more lexol in them all the time, but I'm afraid I will pamper it to death. I am always worried that something I do to the car will ruin its perfection. It is a great handler, especially considering how smooth it is. I've yet to get the tires howling despite taking many turns rather enthusiastically, and when the pace is more relaxed it is like a dream, unjarring and never unsettled. It seems like no matter how briskly I'm accelerating, there is more there if I need it. I think it is the best car out there and, unfortunately, one of the best-kept secrets as well.

    I'm glad this board is so active and doesn't rely on potential buyers and such to keep it alive. This ensures that I will always be able to go somewhere and share my feelings about this incredible car with other people who know exactly what I mean...
  • fredvhfredvh Posts: 853
    What year is your Aurora again and how long have you had it? Bought new or used?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Just like my name. I bought it brand new, and I ordered it so it would be just the way I wanted (and no one would have test-driven it). I took delivery in mid October, about 4 weeks after I placed the order. It has about 4,500 miles on it now.

    It is "cherry" which is a dark red and has the neutral interior. I got the Bose stereo, heated seats, and a sunroof. I don't like chrome wheels, nor the "gold" package, and I don't really like nav. systems or trunk mounted changers (they get in the way sometimes), plus I really like Bose. I think the neutral interior is the most welcoming. I have seen the gray interior and it seemed sort of cold and professional. The two-tone neutral seems so much more friendly and inviting. I haven't seen the mocha interior (I had a hell of a time finding a dealer with a gray one).

    Another small thing I appreciate about the Aurora and about all GM products is the logical way their packages and options are laid out. It is easy to see exactly what you are getting, and what is different about the different trim levels, packages, and models. I am always surprised how difficult it is to get that sort of information from other manufacturers. I've noticed that with Ford, Jaguar, Nissan, Lexus, and others that it can be downright cryptic to determine what the difference is with different trim levels of a vehicle. If you haven't seen it, www.gmbuypower.com is a good tool to see how you can configure your vehicle.

    If you are looking at the 3.5 Aurora, then my recommendation would be to get the All-Weather package, followed by the Convenience package (the electrochromatic rearview is worth it alone), followed by whatever individual options you like followed by the Passenger Comfort package, depending on how much you wish to spend. The Passenger Comfort package is nice, and I really like the climate control on the passenger door touch, but if money is an issue then let the passengers be the ones who feel the budget. I would recommend the V8 though because the mileage is pretty close to the V6, and because it is a V8... Plus, that would help the resale somewhat. Also, a V8 has a natural balance that a V6 can't achieve. A 90 degree V8 can be naturally free from vibration, whereas a V6 requires balance shafts and such to reduce them. As an aside, an I6 and a V12 are the other common engines that are naturally vibration free. Any other *common* (like V6, I5, I4, F4) design (including narrow angle V8s) can only try to reduce the effect of vibrations (although many engines do a heck of a job at that, the 3.5 being one of them). I can't say I've ever noticed any vibration with the 3.5 in the Intrigue or Aurora, though. They were velvety smooth.

    Ooops, I just noticed the All-Weather package requires the Passenger Comfort package... All the more reason to get the 4.0... no package decisions... :)
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    I'm a lurker here - own a 2000 Bonneville SE - but enjoy reading on the Aurora experiences. Sounds like you have a gorgeous car there. I'm sure many prefer the 'Classics' but I do like the looks of the new (unfortunately final) generation car and absolutely agree with your sentiments about prefering the 4.0 over the 3.5 engine. Perhaps in a couple years I'll be looking for a 1 or 2 year old 4.0 to replace my Bonneville. I know there will be some great buys out there. Yours sounds particularly nice and I wish you well with it for many years and miles of Aurorian satisfaction.

    Ken
  • ewtewt Posts: 127
    You might want to check your wheel bearings. I had a front wheel bearing go bad and it caused variable vibration. It was very noticible at times, and not at others. Lift the front tires off the ground and see if you have any play while wiggling the tire from the top and bottom. It's actually an easy job to replace them. The hub and bearing come as one unit and it is held on by three bolts. The only catch is that you need a 34mm socket for the axle nut, and a Torx socket (a T55 I think) for the three bolts to get it off. Also, I found that parts are available online for MUCH less than what you'll pay at the dealer at list price. I got the bearing for about $200 shipped vs. $350 + tax at the dealer.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    rjs - yeah, they said the no. 2 was some tough stuff and it would often need professional care when used.

    This guy indicated the X was a chemical cleaner, or had chemical cleaners and did not mention abrasives. It probably has some very mild abrasives though. Since I already have some, I'll try it first, and then look at the Medallion stuff if I need to.

    I got the car so perfect - like a wet piece of candy (virtually scratchless) that the slightest imperfection drives my crazy.

    Hey if you ever get the itch for the performance exhaust, just call Corsa. I think they can do one for the new Aurora easy. I think you will get a very slight note while cruising at 70/75. I actually visited them and rode in the President's STS with the system and it was very cool. No noise at idle either. I did pass on it though because I was not sure I would like ANY exhaust note at all on long highway drives. Trouble is I really have nothing to compare it to. I've never owned a performance car, so I don't know what is "normal" and not very degrading and what would be too much.

    My wife and I ended up having a blast in downtown Cleveland anyway, so it wasn't a wasted trip at all. I actually want to go back.
  • Ewt, thanks for this feedback about wheel bearings. Did you notice that when you hit bumps it felt like a truck when you had the bad hub (sort of clunky)? Just don't want to spend needless money. Thanks.

    --Sean
  • Garnes--Thanks for your posts and testing on the airbox mod. Over the weekend I pulled out the white plastic piece and the bottom resonator box. Decided not to cut the extra hole in the bottom as the bottom plastic insert just slides out and seems to open up a hole almost as wide as the one in the frame. Haven't got the K&N yet, but I can tell a difference in sound and more snap in the middle of the rpms! Figure I can put it all back together for warrnty work, though the white plastic piece is a bit beatup and I chisled off the tops of the round black pieces holding it in place....you'd have to look real hard to notice when its all put back in place.

    I've got the previously thought to be rare green...or is it blue in the right light color.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Hey Sbeaupre, did you try to see if it was a strut binding before you buy a wheel bearing?

    Garnes, I would say any exhaust you can hear while cruising would be bad. It is hard to evaluate when you drive something for a few minutes. It really starts to make more difference on a long drive, and even just as time goes on. Normally if I am cruising at 60+ I hear more wind noise than anything. It is still real quiet, but the wind is the most prominent thing. If the exhaust becomes the prominent sound, even if it is still pretty quiet, I think it would be too much. I appreciate the silent cruise more than I'd appreciate the extra growl when I dig into it. If the Corsa truly provides both, then that is awesome. I suppose if it was installed with clamps rather than welds, I could always swap it back to stock when I wanted to. That could be part of my trip preparation... swap the stock exhaust back on. :)

    I'm sure the Scratch-X will do the trick great. I am awaiting an order of #7 before I try out the Medallion cleaner. I got the Medallion protectant too. I don't want to take off the current coat of Gold Class with the cleaner until I can use the polish followed by the protectant. I'll let you know how that threesome works for me. My car has some very light swirl marks from the dealership wash/wax when it was delivered (despite my insistence that they touch my car as little as humanly possible while still performing their pre-delivery inspection)

    Musclecar97, you've intrigued me as to the color of your car. What is the official name of the color? Do you have any pictures?

    Hey Aurora50, you never really commented on the effect of your airbox/dryer hose modification. Did it make a difference in how the car pulls?
  • ewtewt Posts: 127
    "Ewt, thanks for this feedback about wheel bearings. Did you notice that when you hit bumps it felt like a truck when you had the bad hub (sort of clunky)? Just don't want to spend needless money. Thanks"

    I don't remember if I got any thunking, but I'd get some wheel bearing noise (whoo whoo whoo) sound when making left turns (right front bearing was bad), and a vibration on the highway that came and went and felt like an unbalanced tire. Determining if you need one or not is pretty simple. If you have any play when grabbing the tire at the top and bottom with the tire up in the air, the bearing needs replacement. My car only had about 70K miles. I'm not sure if they typically wear out that fast or not. My left front bearing still seems to be ok, although my traction control light is still on. I assumed the sensor built into the hub was the cause, but apparently it wasn't.

    Eric
  • i have a little experience with front wheel bearings, maybe i can add a little insight on your noise problem.
    on my '95, i started to hear a constant growling sound that came from the left front wheel. the car had just over 87,000 miles on it when the bearing went. it just appeared suddenly while i was driving, it wasn't a gradual onset or anything like that. i changed the bearing myself, and once i did that my traction light would flash quite often, especially when the car was parked and idling. most of the time the traction would turn itself off after receiving so many false readings from the sensor. what i had to do, was replace the right side wheel bearing also. it's important to get the same brand of manufactured wheel bearing because the computer takes precise measurements from each wheel speed sensor and compares the data to activate the traction control. chances are, if one bearing goes bad, the other bearing is not far behind.
    i hope this helps you guys.
  • rjs- The official color name according to Zinc's paint code is Medium Dark Teal Metallic. It's light bluish green, but in the right light it looks more blue. I saw the color on a 98 Camaro convertible once, but have yet to see another Aurora with it. 97 & 98 were the only years they used that color. The Plum is also a rare color.

    Followed a 2002 home tonight and had to tailgate to make sure it was aROARa. The rear fog lights are what caught my eye. Sat in one at the dealer and love the interior. You've got a nice ride.
    The thing I jones on on the Classic's is their hips and shoulders and the way the side mirrors are hooked to the doors...look like racing car mirrors.
  • I had the same vibration problem with my 1997 Aurora. The cause is incorrect wheel balancing. There is a special way to balance the wheels on this particular model, and not all tire shop have the equipment to properly do so. Look under the last few weeks replies under "problems and solutions" in the town hall for Auroras.
  • I spent all day saturday messing with the center console. The shift indicator light is out as is the one in the center glove box. The glove box was a burnt out bulb, but on the shift indicator light, their ain't no wire hooked up to it and I sure couldn't find one just waiting to be hooked up under there.

    rjs- I'll get a photo to you one of these days...have to take one first.

    Anybody know the name of the valve that sits on top of the back valve cover on the passenger side...oil vacum of some sort hooks up to it... any way mine is making a racket, took it off and shook it and it sounds like its full of bbs.
  • musclecar97:

    I don't know why you cannot find the wiring; but, it isn't likely to be waitng to be hooked up. See my two messages on the topic (1834 and 2279).

    I believe the valve you asked about is PCV (positive crankcase ventilation). They have a pellet inside that rattles as you shake the valve.
  • It was as if the guys at the factory forgot to run the wires, or somebody did some work on the console wiring and nipped and taped the shift indicator wires. They just weren't there. The indicator had the male plug in the bottom, but no female plug anywhere.

    I was tearing this all apart hoping to find the wooden ashtray door that was missing when I bought the car. The guy who traded this thing in was a real slob... I found tons of junk(pens, pencils, trash)behind the ashtray between the kick panels. My 0-60 times should be better now that I got rid of the extra weight!

    Thanks blk97 on the PCV, I'll be replacing that soon.
  • Garnes...are you ever going to get around to dynoing the mass air flow sensor you installed?

    henri- glad to hear she's back...hate to see you go the way of zinc
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    Henry - I was looking at the 2002 aurora breakdown on Edmunds and it had a $103 surcharge. What is that all about?

    Greg
  • For some reason, I cannot get on as Aurora50 to post, so I am now on at Aurora5000. We will try that.

    rjs200240- My modification seems to work great after 3 months. It seems to have more power in the 3500-5500 range. I notice it when I get accelerating on the entrance ramp of the Interstate. It has a very slight growl upon accelerating but not enough to be noticed by the normal person (my wife). I also have the K&N air filter. If you want more details and photos, give me your email address and I will try to take some photos...
    I am next looking at some sort of free flow mufflers for my 2002-4.0 Aurora but they need to be quiet, as to the "normal person" again. Any suggestions??
    My purchase date was Oct.2001 and I have aprox. 4400 miles.
    At 3000, switched to Mobil 1 synthetic and filter. I will change oil when the car computer says it is time to. Probably in the 4 to 5 thousand mile range. Left dino oil in it for break in period although the owners book says it does not have a break in period just be careful in the first 500 miles of driving.
    Anyone else use synthetic oil?
    Good day...
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