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Comments
If you think about all of the porblems that will occur from the swap and all of the thousands you will waste buying the engine and then getting it to work in an Aurora . The cost would be astronomical. I guarantee that for less money you can sell an Aurora and buy one hell of nice caddie. Then you would have the great engine plus all the other great features of the Caddie.
The engine swap just doesnt make any sense to me.
When has modifing any "Classic" car been cost effective?
You modify or restore a car because you like the car.
Save the Aurora, it's an extinict species. RIP
Just a little reality check, but how much power would you all really want from your car? I like that it is quiet when cruising, idles smoothly, revs smoothly, has a nice broad torque curve, and gets good economy. While I too am compelled by the thought of extra power, it almost always comes at a price.
Also, yes rjs200240, the idea of extra power, in the case of the NorthStar, lots of power, is my main goal. I would like at least 350hp with 400hp as a target. As far as getting that from a 4.0 would be pretty tough and probably lose reliable, fair mileage, etc.
I konw it is not that hard to get 400hp from a NorthStar. Hence, thats why I would to install one. Also, the main problem seems to be the computer. I guess I'm going to have some chip guys for some info.
If the 4 liter Aurora engine is the same as the 4.6 northstar except for thicker inserts to reduce the bore, could you take the cylinder inserts out and put in a Cadillac one?
Does anyone have the TSB number that talks about this issue? I know it is for the Caddie, but I am hopeful that someone here knows the deal.
Thanks,
Henri
This message you can take as gospel according to GM.The dipstick however is another story..........we just can't read it unless the oil is black.
I have some info for programming the 95 Aurora Keyless Entry Transmitters. This was done after visiting two dealers and both wanted to charge for this. The service writer at the Buick dealer told me that the Tech-1 tool only shorts pins 4 & 8 via a fuse. I have the older version of keyless entry transmitter. Part number (256002667, 68,69) and here's what worked for me (Pinout at bottom of msg -). Try this at your own risk:
1) Make a fused jumper (I used a 2A fuse - but a simple paperclip would probably work as well if you aren't afraid of damaging the computer) and connect jumper to pins 4 and 8 on the OBD connector under the dash (it's hidden by a black sliding door).
2) The doorlocks will cycle once (lock and unlock) as soon as jumper is installed. No need to turn on ignition.
3) Press the lock button on the FOB (doorlocks will cycle), then press the unlock button on the FOB (doorlocks will cycle).
4) Repeat step 3 for all FOB's being used on the car. When done remove the jumper and test FOBs for functionality.
5) Done.
There's also another procedure for the 95 and later models. This didn't work for me but it may for you:
1) Connect pins 4 and 8 on the OBD connector via fused jumper.
2) Turn on ignition (doorlocks cycle)
3) Press LOCK and UNLOCK simultaneously on the FOB.
4) Doors will cycle after approx. 30sec delay
5) Repeat step 3 for all FOBs
6) Turn off ignition
7) Remove jumper
OBD connector pinout:
___________________
( 1 . . . . . . . 8 )
\ 9 . . . . . . 16/
---------------
Good luck....
= Uwe =
the exhaust tips caught my eye,nice and polished.
i couldn't bear to look at that crumpled sheet metal. i hate to see that happen to an Aurora.
==================================================
Engine Oil Level Indicator - Reads Incorrect
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 47-61-37
Date: November, 1994
Subject: Incorrect Oil Reading from Engine Oil Level Indicator (Measure Engine Oil Level Indicator Length)
Model:
1995 Oldsmobile Aurora with 4.0L Engine
(VIN C - RPO L47)
Condition
Some vehicle owners may comment that more than 7.5 quarts (7.0 liters) of engine oil are required to fill the engine after an engine oil change.
Cause
This condition may be caused by an engine oil level indicator with insufficient length. This insufficient length may result in adding an additional 1/2 to 1 quart (liter) over the recommended 7.5 quarts (7.0 liters) for engine oil to register correctly on the indicator. This condition will not cause engine damage. The 4.OL engine used in the 1995 Aurora required only 7.5 quarts (7.0 liters) (including filter) engine oil to properly fill the crankcase.
Correction
To determine if the vehicle is equipped with a correct length engine oil level indicator, measure the length of the indicator from the flat on the land or upset above the "O" ring to the word "max" on the tip of the indicator. The length should be 618 mm.
Note: For an interim period, the new fluid level indicator will have a silver dot under the "T" handle of the indicator.
Whenever it is necessary to check the engine oil level in the engine, make sure the vehicle is on a level surface and, to ensure an accurate reading, make sure the engine temperature is 100~C.
Parts Information
Whenever it is necessary to replace the engine oil indicator, refer to the following part number.
Description Part Number
Engine Oil Level Indicator 12554201
Parts are expected to be available from GMSPO on November 14, 1994.
That's the wierdest thing I've ever heard. I've never had a car where the oil was to be checked hot. That's about 210 degrees F.
P.S. GM High-Tech Performance magazine? Think I could trade in my Car and Driver subscription for that? I'll throw in Road & Track too! Ok, ok, C&D, R&T, and Motor Trend. Deal?
Intersting point about the oil temp. The TSB posted about the Aurora would make one believe that the "under fill" condition only relates to the 1995's. But I thought foks with later years reported the same "problem."
Another question (on oil), if you use fully synthectic oil can you then go 7,000 miles without an oil change? I had heard that with synthectics, you would make every other oil change and not the 3,500 mile changes. Is this true??
Also, doesn't your car have an oil life monitor? Just go by that. The synthetic will give you more protection and confidence, but the oil life monitor should still let you see 5-7,000 mile change intervals even though it assumes regular oil. I use Mobil 1 and just go by the monitor. That way I stay on the safe side.
Yeah, that hot oil reading is weird, but I'd say it is settled that the 7.5 is the way to go.
Henry - Use M1 and you can go 7000 miles easy. I think RJS has it right. Use M1 and go with the oil life monitor. You cannot miss with that and have that added protection (perhaps psychological too) when you drive it hard and for cold starts.
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/features/0305GM_Sudden/
First - "If GM's 32-valve, quad-cam motor is indeed simply a de-stroked Northstar, it is hard to fathom why money would be spent to lower displacement 12 cubic inches before installing it in a performance car. Popular opinion would see this as a large waste of money when a few simple calibration changes could be made--GM may simply see it as a hierarchical decision. "You can't give a Camaro more engine than a 'Vette," one GM insider explained. "Regarding a 300-horsepower, flagship Cadillac and a Pontiac, it's the same thing."
Yep - there goes GM again spending money to reduce performance - after all if they didn't there would be NO difference between the GXP and a Caddy - right??? Stupid GM. Just make the best darn car you can and keep costs down. Let the consumer decide. Get a clue. This "strategy" of GM's drives me crazy. It's self destructive. They have to consider the imports too.
Um excuse me - the production model would not have a K&N filter or a Corsa exhaust, therefore no 270 HP 3.8. Not even close. I don't think we will see K&N filters as "stock" equipment any time soon. I think that is asking too much of the general public regarding maintenance. Just my HO.
Where do these writers come from??
Hey - I may have been about dead-on with my dyno measurements of the power to the wheels at about 76%. Cool.
It really makes me wonder about the 350Z "test car" I saw dyno'd in a magazine - it was giving about 85% at the wheels according to the rated output at the crank. I still say it was the first documented evidence suggesting they do send ringers to the magazine - especially Nissan. But who know maybe a 15% driveline loss is very possible and I'm unaware of it.
Sorry, mid 14's I'd like to believe. I doubt it. I think my car's output is very much the same as the proposed GXP and I don't think I'd run a mid 14. Maybe I'm off here, but I don't think I've gone from high 15's to mid 14's and again, by modified 4.0's output is probably very nearly the same as the proposed GXP. I think that is even faster or maybe the same as the STS.
BTW - I'd consider mid 14's pretty darn quick. You pretty much have to go for a Camaro or Mustang with a strong V8 to significantly beat that.
Greg you are right about the intentional hp trimming. It is stupid. Let the Camaro share an engine with the 'vette. The intake and exhaust will likely be more restrictive, but even if not, who cares? Do they really think people would stop buying the 'vette? Is that all that differentiates one from a Camaro? It's idiotic...
http://service.gm.com/gmtechlink/arcv_pdf/4_00_e.pdf
And here is one on PCS (though in the Intrigue, not the Aurora):
http://service.gm.com/gmtechlink/arcv_pdf/12_99_e.pdf
This one is on the 2001 Aurora, though I think I may have posted it already:
http://service.gm.com/gmtechlink/arcv_pdf/5_00_e.pdf
I'd like to find one on Magnasteer II. So if you see one, let me know.
under budget, they say the Aurora averages 17mpg of regular unleaded lol.
High-mileage engines with carbon buildup (resulting in a higher compression ratio) could theoretically run into problems when using a lower-octane fuel, since the operating parameters might lie outside the range covered by the computer. However, pinging and/or dieseling would be fairly obvious.
Like others I use regular gas. I have a seat-of- the-pants sense that premium provides a tad more oomph, but you would need a race track and timers to confirm this. My supercharged Buick Regal also required premium and, in my opinion, ran equally well on mid-grade but lost a little urgency on regular.
Chris
regular - not recommended, performance drop off
silver - is okay, performance loss is noticable, but livable
premium- Now you talking aROARa
Shell Ultra - a waste of money
http://www.delphi.com/pdf/steeringpdfs/Magsteer2.pdf
This board has been really slow lately, so how about a question. If your Aurora got stolen or something and you got $40,000 to replace it, what would you most likely buy? Myself, I'd probably buy a 2003 'Roara and another Corsa system. The only other car that has much appeal to me is the CTS, but I don't want a V6, even when it starts making 250-260 hp.