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Oldsmobile Aurora

1959698100101187

Comments

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    our very own Edmunds, the paint color was called Purple Pearl Metallic. I take it you located the build sheet in the trunk?

    3000 posts... Impressive. It doesnt' seem like that long ago I was reading through the old ones (less than 2000 thankfully) as I awaited delivery of my 2002 (also delivered in October). Now it almost has 10,000 miles on it... Still looks brand new, though, and hopefully will for many more miles.

    For all of us being car nuts, I'm surprised the performance board only has like 50 posts. :) I guess the sedan board is where it's at.
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Posts: 134
    Beachlover:
    Sounds like a good idea. I wonder if it would be possible to wire the chirper into the switched side of the remote's receiver (wherever that is...) -- then perhaps it would only chirp upon remote activation.
    I don't know if this is possible -- I'm just guessing -- since I don't have a factory manual or wiring diagram for the Aurora. But it seems that there would have to be a 12v output from the receiver that goes to the door locks since that and the trunk release are the ONLY functions of the remote on the 1995 model.

    If you have any sucess, be sure to post back and let all us poor 1995 owners know how to do it!
    Thanks,
    Jim
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    My 95 was used, so I do not know what dealer options were added o the car. The alrm may have been one of them.

    It is a GM alarm and has the little red light on the dash.
  • ramouramou Posts: 84
    I posted about a week ago about my interior light fuse keep on blowing. well the problem was in my driver side sunvisor, the insulation on the wires leading to the visor wore out and it exposed the wire making it touch metal parts and shorting out the interior light. as we all know the interior light, map light, trunk light, and visor lights are all under the same fuse which is the under the rear seat/passenger side. So today i unscrewed the visor's 3 screws then i basically dismanteled the visor to try to find that bare wire. the same problem could also happen to the passenger side visor, depending on how much it's being used. It's not so much opening the flap for the lighted mirror, but it's more of swinging the visor around to block the sun, that action overtime will cause the wire to rubb back and forth inside the visor causing it to wear out. So to narrow it down it's the visible 4 inch piece of wire that leads from the headlinner to the visor, the piece that directly comes out when you remove those 3 screws. now you probably want to know how i knew this, well i have to admit that the visor was my last guess , but i asked a technician at the Dealership and he told me to chech the visors because he gets a lot of those reported poblems and it's always the visor. so when i went home i played with the passenger side visor and nothing happened, then i played with the driver side visor and sure enough the fuse blew.i guess the swinging around of the visor to block the sun will wear out the wire so i just put electric tape around it and so far no problem.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    I don't know how many Aurora owners have upgraded their Auroras with some custom wheels? I have on my 1999 Onyx Black Aurora a set of 18 inch Lexani Roma, all chrome wheels with Nitto eXtreme tires size 235/40/ZR18. I also found these website http://www.afftw.com/main.htm were you can load any Olds Vehicle and see what it would look like with some custom wheels. See how an Aurora would look, you can change the color to match your own, you can even drop the Aurora several inches. Make sure you click on the far upper right hand side of the screen were it says "View Wheels on Vehicle" and a new page will load and check it out.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    I don't want to spend any more than $20k on a car - new or used. I have narrowed it down (at least for now) to a '01 Millenia or '01 3.5 Aurora. I am crazy about the looks of both the classic and the new Aurora. Any advice from this board would be appreciated. Any watchouts on the '01 Aurora? The new vs. classic seems so different that maybe there should be two msg. boards. My main concern would be reliability. What is the general consensus? Thanks in advance.
  • eaton53eaton53 Posts: 356
    Except I'm only looking at the Aurora.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    That the Aurora is awesome!! Actually, I think you'll find everyone here, even people who had problems, still liked their Aurora. However, I think everyone here also owns the V8. I can't think of any posters that had the V6 (although only about 3-4 of us even have the new Aurora). However, if you get one, you can help round out our board! There were some service bulletins for the '01 Auroras concerning mainly small things. However, I think you will find that true of any car. The '01 went on sale in January of 2000, so you might want to check the build date in the driver's side door just so you have an accurate idea of how old it is. I don't think there is anything worse about the early ones, but you will want to know that the car is really two years old when settling on a price. I'm sure more bulletins apply to early ones, since they usually make changes to the line when a bulletin comes out, but nothing really to worry about. You might also see what the warranty is on it. Not all 2001's had the 5yr/60,000 mile warranty.

    As for content, not everything that was standard on the 4.0 was on the 3.5. If you are happy with the content, then that's fine. However, if you think it has certain features because people here mentioned them, then you might want to double-check it.
  • eaton53eaton53 Posts: 356
    A 2002 model next year, but if I find a 2001 that has everything I want (sunroof, chrome wheels, heated seats & dual climate controls in certain colors) I might go for it.

    A number of people at my work have 3.5 Intrigues and they've been trouble free.

    It's true that everything that's on the 4.0 isn't on the 3.5, but if one looks around long enough a loaded one will come along.

    Lack of seat heaters and dual climate controls won't be a deal breaker, but no sunroof is. I'm surprised how many Auroras don't have one, considering the price point.

    Power isn't really an issue since my wife's coming out of a Cavalier... going to a 3.5 Aurora is a huge leap upscale.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    As the undisputed king of shop time, let me give my opinion after >$8,000 worth of repairs and > $1,000 dollars of modifications to my 7 year old 95 Classic that caused me to start this board over 3 years ago.

    I LOVE IT !!

    The thing about the Classic to remember is that at the time it was the most tech heavy car on the road. Many things on current GM cars, such as the chasis, originated with the Classic.

    The positive side of the technology is the ride, comfort and gadgets. The negative side is that it can cost to repair the car.

    No car is perfect (not even L-Xus). The classic tends not to handle as well as the Y2K models. The car is heavey, so it is not an off the line car, or a cornering car. Because the Northstar is now over 7 years old, there are 6cyn cars with greater horse power than the Classic or the Y2K's.

    The Classic tends to need TLC, but most performance cars fall into this category.

    The real question is: "Do I like the car enough to put up with its 'personality'?" When the car works the way it is supposed to (which is MOST of the time), it is motoring heaven.

    If you drive to get from point A to point B, then don't spend the money on the Aurora, the Toyota Echo will do that. If you enjoy the ride, performance, environment and American metal then the best choice is . . . .

    Henri
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    As the undisputed king of shop time, let me give my opinion after >$8,000 worth of repairs and > $1,000 dollars of modifications to my 7 year old 95 Classic that caused me to start this board over 3 years ago.

    I LOVE IT !!

    The thing about the Classic to remember is that at the time it was the most tech heavy car on the road. Many things on current GM cars, such as the chasis, originated with the Classic.

    The positive side of the technology is the ride, comfort and gadgets. The negative side is that it can cost to repair the car.

    No car is perfect (not even L-Xus). The classic tends not to handle as well as the Y2K models. The car is heavey, so it is not an off the line car, or a cornering car. Because the Northstar is now over 7 years old, there are 6cyn cars with greater horse power than the Classic or the Y2K's.

    The Classic tends to need TLC, but most performance cars fall into this category.

    The real question is: "Do I like the car enough to put up with its 'personality'?" When the car works the way it is supposed to (which is MOST of the time), it is motoring heaven.

    If you drive to get from point A to point B, then don't spend the money on the Aurora, the Toyota Echo will do that. If you enjoy the ride, performance, environment and American metal then the best choice is . . . .

    Henri
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Posts: 181
    I put Bosch Platinum +2's and Bosch Platinum wires in my 98 Aurora Friday night. A friend I managed to do it in about an hour and a half. Once we got a few electrical stuff off and the coil packs the rear bank of plugs wernt that bad to change. Much to my suprise I still had the factory plugs in. I got the new ones in and I LOVE MY CAR!!!

    My car runs so much better. I thought it was the FPR that was causing the hesitation but it must of been a plug/wire.

    To make a very long story short... I went to little vacation with 3 other friends on thier crotch rockets and I in my Aurora. We ended up meeting up with 14 other bikes and going on a cruise on some country roads. A guy driving a firebird and I were the only cars with these guys. I never got behind and even ended up passing the Firebird. When parked and everyone got out and talked. The firebird owner asked what I had in my car to keep up with him and told him. He said he didn't know these cars were so fast and able to take corners like that.

    On the way home got my governor to of off a couple of times. Trying to keep up with 3 gsx 600's was actually pretty fun :o)
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Posts: 181
    yikes, my old high school english teacher would not be happy with me after reading that post.
  • Anyone have success removing this? If so, how? Do I need to take a piece off the bottom of the car?
  • larryfllarryfl Posts: 214
    ...depends on what you mean by success. My '95 came with one installed when I got it last year. It's easy enough to remove - 4 bolts just come right out - if you don't mind the 4 bolt-holes left in the bumper.

    Soooo... I put an american flag plate on the front after 9/11 and I've been living with it. However, I will be getting the hood and bumper painted soon and will have the body shop repair the bumper holes then.
  • musclecar97musclecar97 Posts: 111
    Just got back from a 900mile round trip across Oregon and what a road trip car these babies are. Most of the trip was on two-lane highway with some 4lane. I went from 2500feet altitude, up and over the cascade range 5000feet and down to sea level and back again. Averaged 27mpg...had all the power I needed when it came time to pass...and spanked by brother's '75 vette off the line.(of course '75 L48s were the slowest vette engines ever(other than some of those 50's models)...but still!
    I also discovered a new gadget, I love to discover new gadets, when you move the visor over to block the sun from the side windows (and apparently screw up the wiring...nice to know this now after I moved that visor around a jillion times!) that little dinky visor that folds down for the front (you know the one that is under the regular visor) any way I always thought it was way to small...well I'm driving along and checking it out and loandbehold there is a piece that slides out of it and makes it longer...reaches clear to the drivers door...yes I knew about the slider on the main visor, but DUDES!...there's one on the hidden visor too... 8 months into this car and still finding toys. too cool!
  • musclecar97musclecar97 Posts: 111
    Factoid that is interesting to probably only me: the 4.0 is 244 cubic inches... thats 442 backwards
  • herbvherbv Posts: 6
    About a month ago I bought a 2001 3.5 from a local dealer.

    the car was built in March of 2000. It had 10,500 miles on it and I paid $21,500. It had no sunroof and the warranty was for 36,000 or 3 years which leaves one year left on the warranty. However I have a mechanic who I have used for the last 20 years and I have great trust in him. The thinks the 3.5 will be far more trouble free than the 4.0.

    The car did not have a sunroof. Since my wife thinks a sunroof is absolutely necessary I had one installed for $1050.

    It is a beautiful automobile with a great ride and I think I got a decent deal.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Automatic entry into the "You know you are obsessed with your card when . . . . "
  • Larryfl-
    Did you have to go behind the bumper to remove the bracket? How big are the holes in the bumper?

    I just hate the stupid thing and would like to get rid of it. Sigh.
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Posts: 181
    I would also like to get rid of mine. I'm just worried about the paint and plastic not matching anymore.

    Could the holes be covered by the same pieceproduct that is used to cover holes in trunks when spoilers are removed? I've seen these somewher eon the net. I'll do a little more research.

    I thought about having a license plate made. They air brush them at the local fair. I was thinking of having an aurora symbol made on one. I was going to do this last year but completly forgot.
  • larryfllarryfl Posts: 214
    My front licence plate frame is held on by 4 bolts located just behind the licence plate itself. The four bolts just unscrew right out of the bumper and can be screwed right back in again. I think they just thread through the plastic/rubber of the bumper skin - two on the painted part and two on the black part over the air intake. They leave about 1/2" holes and yes, there is some discoloration on mine where the frame has been for so long. You should be able to pull yours off easily and refit it if you don't like what it looks like underneath.

    I do remember someone posting several months ago that said their dealer had some color-coated plugs that he uses to cover the holes and I'm sure they would look fine. Mine was damaged by a front-end bump before I got the car that tore a quarter-sized hole at one of the mounting holes in the bumper. My only recourse is to either leave the frame on or repair the bumper.
  • rocket3_50rocket3_50 Posts: 42
    I've been tickled pink with my silver 2001 3.5 Aurora.

    A fairly late build date of March 2001 insured that there was a center tether point in the rear seat for an infant seat... I think some early builds did not have this. Some early reviewers groused about the fit and finish (not an issue on my car - perfect), and about the a/c knobs being too easy to turn (again, a non-issue for me, it just takes some getting used to - it actually gives the dash a kind of refined feeling), and about the headlight pattern off to the side of the vehicle (picky,picky,picky - I guess these guys have to do something for a living.) It's quiet, it's an entry level luxury car (it's not a $50,000 Lexus - you have to be happy with the price range you've chosen), it's pretty in an American kind of way (vs. the Lincoln LS - kind of Euro-styled). The 3.5 has sufficient power to climb the mild mountain grades in western North Carolina at 75+ mph, and probably faster, if I dared.

    I've got 23,000 miles since taking delivery of my new Aurora in April 2001. (Be prepared for more road time - - I never put on more than 15,000 miles in a year before.) Maintenance has included two burned out bulbs (replaced under warranty), regular oil changes with Mobil 1, a very occasional power steering unit moan that the dealer and I haven't been able to identify and address, yet - I don't think it's a major issue, and finally, replacement of a crankshaft position sensor (under warranty). I've never been stranded, never been towed, and I've always smiled each time I strap into the silver princess.

    Ken
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I thought a little while back someone mentioned their cruise control would just turn off sometimes. There is one possible problem that is discussed in the May Techlink on service.gm.com. http://service.gm.com/techlink/html_en/pdf/200205-en.pdf#dst01

    There is also a chart on oil capacity. I remeber a ways back when I first changed my oil, I noticed that putting in the 7 quarts (6.5 in the crank, .5 in the filter) wasn't cutting it. A bunch of people here said it really takes 8 quarts total (and they were right). The chart in the Techlink confirms that the crankcase of the Olds 4.0L holds 7.5 quarts, so add in the .5 quarts in the filter and it indeed takes 8 quarts...

    There is also something about the center high mounted stop light falling down in 2001-2002 Auroras.
  • dlcleavdlcleav Posts: 40
    rjs200240 - I have had that intermittent problem. Thanks for the link. Dave
  • cwiley1cwiley1 Posts: 82
    After removing the 4 screws the bracket came off. I painted the silver screws with several coats of paint and put them back in the bumper. It worked fine for me.
  • aurorabillaurorabill Posts: 22
    I am the 10-day owner of a 98 STS. There are two questionable or annoying things I wonder if anybody else has experienced?

    1. The remote entry works very sporadically. I have already replaced the battery, so its not that. Sometimes it takes up to 3 clicks to unlock the front door, up to 5 time to unlock the rear. With my Aurora I was able to open the drivers door from 50 feet away. It appears that there is some directionality, but I can't figure this thing out.

    2. Sometimes while playing a CD there is a static sound, like the drift of FM radio. I could understand FM drift, but not from a CD!

    BTW, I called Corsa about a new exhaust. They give the STS about 22 more HP and about 19 ft/lbs more torque. The cost is $999. My local Caddy dealer said they weren't interested in the so I am pursuing a private shop. The one thing I learned is that it doesn't pay to have a local guy fabricate one, because it will unlikely have the sound deadening qualities of a Corsa, which is a higher-tech, engineered solution.

    Thanks.
    Aurorabill
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    matrixfrog:

    I'm happy to hear your problem was plugs/wires and not the FPR. Ironically when my Aurora started to be hard to start, I first thought of spark plugs. Then after reading several posts on FPR problems, I realized that more closely fit my symptoms. Since replacing the FPR eight days ago, the motor has started right away as it used to.

    Why did you decide to go with Bosch plugs/wires as opposed to AC/Delco? Not being critical, I am curious as I am shopping for same because I know I will need to replace them soon.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    aurorabill:

    I had an intermittent problem with my remote entry transmitter, too. I have no idea if your STS transmitter is built the same as the Aurora's. The problem was that the circular spring that holds the battery and is connected to the circuit board in two places with small pins came loose from the circuit path; the solder connections broke. It wasn't obvious at first because there was enough mechanical "grip" to hold the spring in place, but it wasn't making a reliable electrical connection. I resoldered it with a small soldering pencil, and it has worked flawlessly since then.
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