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2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala

1910121415442

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  • someone is selling the extra pin/ tie tack on ebay. they say it was only given out during a black tie unvailing of the new impala. go bid if you want it.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=530828851
  • mcdillmcdill Posts: 180
    Thats the same Tie pin our car salesman gave me , i went to go see him about some impala stuff , and he had that in his desk , he won it from GM after taking a salesmen test on the 2000 impala , actually it was a set of two , but he saw how much i liked the car , and if i promised not to wear it , he would give it to me , its displayed with the rest of my impala stuff. thanks----------------mattmcdill
  • I wanted to buy a small, inexpensive SUV - and wound up with a sedan. I live on a dirt road in Michigan, and when the snow flies, it can take a while until the road is plowed. So... I thought an SUV with 4WD or AWD, ABS, and a good road clearance was important. A limited slip differential sounded nice, too. HOWEVER, I also care about NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness), a LOT. I don't like a stiff suspension that gives me a "thump" when I go over every bump, and I don't like a lot of road, engine, and wind noise that beats on my ears all the time and makes me turn my sound system way up, and even then degrades the quality of what I hear. I bought a digital sound level meter from Radio Shack (about $65) to measure how noisy each vehicle I tested was. My results (all at 65 mph on smooth highways): 2001 Chevy Blazer with V6, 91 dB, stiff suspension; 2001 Ford Explorer with V6, 93-94 dB, stiff; 2001 Mazda Tribute with V6, 88 dB, stiff; 2001 Subaru Forrester with 4 cyl, 91 dB, soft; 2001 Subaru Outback with 4 cyl, 91 dB, soft; 2001 Toyota RAV4 with 4 cyl, 91 dB, soft. For comparison, I tested a few other vehicles. A 1999 Chevy Tahoe with V8, 89-90 db, stiff; 1999 Buick Park Avenue with V8, 86 dB, soft; my deafening 1990 riding lawn mower, 102 dB, stiff! I have to wear earplugs when I use my lawn mower or it seems to damage my hearing. A guy I know who works for Ford claims that they have to make ear plugs available to factory workers when the noise level exceeds 85 dB. Our annoyingly loud kitchen orange juice maker generates 86 dB from 2 feet away (where my head is when operating it).
    I was not happy with any of these vehicle sound levels. I read some stuff on the internet (Edmunds.com) that gave me the impression that the Honda CRV was kind of noisy, so I didn't test it. I considered testing a Hyundai Santa Fe, but the dealer was a long way from where I live, and I worried about getting it there for service. I was also put off by the fact that the Santa Fe is quite new, and the most wonderful warranty in the world is still a pain if a lot of things need to be fixed. So... I gave up on getting an SUV in the low $20,000 range, and reverted to sedans. I tested a 2001 Chevy Impala with V6, 85 dB, soft; 2001 Chevy Malibu with V6, 87 dB, soft; a 2001 Honda Accord, 4 cyl, 91 dB, soft; and a 2001 Toyota Camry LE, 4 cyl, 86 dB, soft. I nearly bought the Camry, but the seats were not comfortable for me or for my wife. We didn't realize it until we sat in them for awhile. Also, I had a weird experience in the Camry. At some highway speed (somewhere between 60 and 70 mph) the seat back went into some kind of mechanical oscillation. I noticed the same thing at about half that speed. It wasn't dangerous, but was distracting. Two others that we tested did not have this problem. I was going to get the Malibu, but the Chevy dealer gave me such good terms for the Impala that I decided to take it. It really felt nice to drive.
    Other notes: the road clearance on the RAV4 is only 6.7 inches. This is better than a sedan, but less that the 7.5 inches and up that is normal for SUVs. The Honda Accord that I test drove seemed to have a problem with the transmission – it tended to hesitate sometimes. There are a lot of other vehicles that I could have tested and a lot of other things that matter on a vehicle. But after reading a fair amount of stuff on the internet and in Consumer Reports, it seemed like no one was covering the stuff that especially mattered to me, so I decided to share this stuff with you all. Comfort matters a lot to me. Maybe Consumers Reports and some of the others should start systematically reporting noise levels in vehicles at some standard speed, and "bump response". Quantitative measurements of bump response would be helpful, not just "soft" and "stiff". A measure of vibration (say, of an idling engine) would also be good. Help people choose what they want. Some like it fairly stiff to "feel" the road. Maybe some like a fairly noisy engine so they can hear what it's doing. Each to his or her own.
    Technical notes: I used the "C weighting" range on the sound level meter (the default when you turn the meter on). This covers the whole bandwidth from 20 Hz to 10,000 Hz. The "A weighting" range only measures sounds from 500 Hz to 10,000 Hz. Switching to the "A" range dropped the sound levels about 10 to 20 dB, depending on the vehicle, indicating that most of the sound noise was below 500 Hz. Human hearing works down to about 20 Hz. Below that, you don't hear with your ears, you feel vibrations with your body. The meter operating in the "C" range does not discriminate low frequency sounds from high frequency sounds. Some of the 4 cylinder engines operate at higher RPM, and this makes the sound level seem more noticeable since your ears are more sensitive there. All vehicles idled at much lower sound levels than those shown, typically at 72-78 dB. I care more about what the sound level is at highway speeds, since that's where it's worse, and that's where I spend more time. Stiff vs soft suspensions were judged subjectively by how it felt when I went over small bumps in the road on the highway. Mostly I was in the vehicle by myself. For the Mazda and Subaru vehicles, my two grown sons and a sales guy were in the vehicle too. This can make the suspension feel softer (with a lot of weight in the vehicle). Note that the decibel (dB) scale is not linear, but logarithmic. This means that a couple of dB difference is very noticeable.
  • Has anyone had trouble with cold feet while driving their LS? My daughters feet can't get warm when she drives her LS. Dealer checked it out and said that the discharge air temp was 127 oF at the left (drivers side) foot discharge vent. It was 163 oF at the upper center vent.Outside air temp was about +10 oF Dealer. Also the front windshield would not defrost well when we had a lot of snow/ice accumulate on the outside by the wiper blades. The dealer said no trouble found. Has anyone else who lives in the Chicago/Madison, WI area have this problem??Is your 2000 Impala always warm and toasty at your feet?
    BuzzSawyer
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    well they say they may have it fixed so here goes. I am surprised though that no other postings show for today - is everyone asleep?

    You guys with the pics in the brochure and the pin sets are certainly fortunate. Those will probably be displayed in prominent places and become the focal point of many a conversation - lucky guys and ladies. I'm envious!

    Ken
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    And on first try!!! Maybe it really is fixed.

    Ken
  • Thanks for describing and showing me what those impala pins look like. Those of you who got them are truly blessed. I would love to get a set of them because I am a true Chevrolet fan. I would be willing to have a quote and/or my picture placed in the 2002 Impala brochure for a chance to get a gift like those impala pins. Each one of your impala pins represent the great history of the Chevrolet Impala. Those pins are extremely nice. Have a great day!
  • Is there anyway possible you could take a zoomed in photo of each pin? I am curious to see what some of them look like. If you can, I would be very grateful. Thanks again!
  • platourplatour Posts: 252
    I put the Impala door emblems on yesterday and today I noticed one is somewhat bent in the middle: it is bent around the "p"; slopes too much down at the front and back from the "p". How do I get it off without damaging the paint? I have ordered a new one so do not have to salvage the new now old.
  • Sorry folks, but with this new message board, it's a pain (almost impossible) to search from within a single conference.

    I'm looking for information concerning the dual catback exhaust that some have installed. What are the specfics?

    1. Part numbers?
    2. Does it improve performance?
    3. Does it add a nice sound, not too loud?
    4. Does it effect the warrant?
  • My wife and I took a long trip over the holiday and we noticed that when running the defrost/heater combo, the car was comfortable, but our feet were a little cold. (Outside temp was between 5 - 10 F). I just changed to heat only and our cold feet problem was solved. I suspect this is normal considering that heat rises and the frigid air is continually flowing under the car, etc.

    Cookie, I think you said you wanted see how the traction control and abs work. Trust me, it works great..... and you really don't want to drive in the slop. We are getting another 4 inches today... and I haven't been able to wash the car for three weeks. Salt all over the car, crap packed in the wheel wells, etc.
  • platourplatour Posts: 252
    Where on the Impala can I find the build date? Or can it be determined from the VIN?
  • 00impala00impala Posts: 474
    You know the TRACTION CONTROL actually works in REVERSE? While backing out of my Garage on a small incline (The snow is packed from the tires and has frozen to a sheet of ice)(I do not use rock salt either) but while backing out slowly i decided to stop and see how the traction of my Eagle GA's would do on a slope, the "TRACTION ACTIVE" light came and assisted me in backing up the icy slope! AWESOME!!! Don
  • duraflexduraflex Posts: 358
    Look on the edge of the driver's door for a sticker.
    It should show your build date like "09-00" = September 2000
  • Is anyone aware of a performance chip that will remove the top-speed limiations of the LS?
  • I am considering purchasing a new or used Impala either a 2000 or 2001. Any advice? Is this a good, reliable car? I like the size. Has anyone had any good or bad experience with their Impala? I would appreciate some help.
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    and think it is the best car around. There are 2000 models showing up now as lease returns - seem to be all base models - no LS yet and probably mostly rental cars. If you don't want the LS model you can find base sedans for around 14-15K now. Not sure what new ones are but new LS is 22K to start. Check the posts archived here for problem notes on the engine cradle welds and some are unhappy with the LS radio amp.

    It's certainly a great car - good looking and very comfortable and well handling, fuel efficient and a good value.

    Good luck on your search - I'll be interested to hear what you come up with, particularly if you find a 2000 LS model.

    Ken
  • mcdillmcdill Posts: 180
    You cannot put a chip in the impala ,or any other new GM product , you either have to reprogram it, or buy a performace computer , all new computers used in GM cars are sealed units , so theres no way to put a chip in it .
    On another note , I had to use our impala last night , first time in a while , and I Was doing a lot of around town and up the interstate driving , about 75-80 miles , it was cold , and the heater burned me out of the car , so we're really not havng any circulation probs. the brakes felt great , no pulling or squeeling . Got into a little something on the interstate with an A$$ in a new F150 , he kept on riding me in the slow lane going 75 mph , so as soon as the traffic cleared , i kindof left him in a stretch of I-10 , anyway , i was really inpressed with it, not a single disapointment , considering I sortof thrashed it around , it now has 17,600 miles .thanks-------------mattmcdill
  • platourplatour Posts: 252
    To Duraflex. You were correct: the build date is on the sticker on the driver's door. Mine is 10/00 or October 2000. Thanks for the tip.
  • platourplatour Posts: 252
    Does GM sell a cat-back dual exhaust for the 3.4L? If yes, any idea of the price?
  • mcdillmcdill Posts: 180
    NO GM does not sell any type of performace exaust systems , that i know about , you would need go to a muffler shop to have an exaust system put on, Heck the chevy dealers take there new cars to muffler shops to have a special system put on cars , I should know , i work right by the largest muffler shop in a county of 400,000 people , ive seen a few 3.4 impala's and monte carlo's come thru there to get dual exaust , nothing special , just like the muffler on the right side moved to the left ,and two chrome tips .thanks-------------mattmcdill
  • platourplatour Posts: 252
    Thanks Matt. I got the idea from this fellow's web site. It lools as if the configuration in the pics shown is a stock item but I could be wrong. I e-mailed him but have not received a reply.
    http://community-2.webtv.net/dman4ford/00IMPALALS/
  • platourplatour Posts: 252
    This Forum is Quiet. In any case, is there a build sheet hidden somewhere on the Impala? In my 1979 Corvette, it was above the gas tank....
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    Sorry I've been inactive for a while; we were hit with an ice storm here (Ark.) on Christmas Day, and we were without electricity from 3pm Tuesday until 4pm Friday. With only gas logs to keep one room relatively warm (about 50 degrees), it was a pain to say the least. My wife and I finally braved taking a shower (we do have gas hot water) on Friday, and went out to see a movie. As I was backing out of the drive, the FedEx truck pulled up and handed me my package from Campbell-Ewald with my pin set (#233 of 350, BTW). So, I had the pleasure of receiving (and opening) my pin set while sitting at the wheel of my Impala!
  • mcdillmcdill Posts: 180
    Hey buddy , ive been think about you , after i heard about all the ice in ARK. so i hope everything is getting better . happy new year----------------mattmcdill
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    Getting the pin set, followed by getting electricity (and HEAT) back made things much better. I can't wait to see our gas bill though - we burned the gas logs for 3-days straight, and unfortunately they're the purely decorative type that put out almost zero heat. We also lost everything we had in the fridge/freezer, but no frozen pipes or other damage at least. We did cook several meals on the fireplace though, which made for some fun moments. I did think about you when I went out Thursday to start my Impala to take the kids over to my in-laws (who got power a day before us); my car produced a large amount of white smoke after having set in the garage for 4 days. The smoke didn't look blue or smell oily; had more of a fuel smell. It burned off within a few seconds, and hasn't been a problem since.
  • mcdillmcdill Posts: 180
    It was probably condensation , unless it came out RIGHT when you cranked it , like within 1 -2 seconds after crankup , condensation usually starts about 15 to 30 seconds after start up , on a cold day . Glad to here every thing got better for you .thanks-----------mattmcdill
  • hggrayhggray Posts: 24
    The current equivalent to the old paper build sheet is a label on the inside of the trunk lid.
  • platourplatour Posts: 252
    Thanks aggray. I will check the trunk when I locate the Impala under the snow. This was the scene in my driveway early this morning. The Impala is under the cover....
    http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=223638&a=1656230&p=36656496&Sequence=0&res=high
  • platourplatour Posts: 252
    Hggray, yes it is simply a sticker under the trunk lid. A list of codes with no descriptors....
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