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2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala

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Comments

  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    I amy be late to the party, but actually, you do have a rev limiter. My 04 has it and while it doesn't have a tach, it does cut out if I rev it too high while in park... to keep people from reving it past it's redline. Why would you want to rev the motor in park anyway??
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    I've got an '04 that I have had for almost 2 years now. I have gotten as high as about 33 MG on the highway, but as low as 19 in the city. I have the 3.4 motor, but no ABS, but I haven't needed it and the times I have braked hard and they were "panic" stops it did well and stopped straight and true. I have had no issues with it. Just basic oil changes thus far. I would say it's a good car. Try to find an LS - it has alloy wheels and the larger 3.8 motor which from my research seems to be a little more durable. It will also have ABS and traction control. I wish I had bought the used 20K 04 LS instead of the 04 brand new base.... The 3.4 has ample power, but the 3.8 has just enough more to give it an extra "kick".
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    I would say go for the Imp. I currently own an 04 Impala and had test driven a Camry. The Impala is bigger, will get the same MPG in my opinion and will last just as long, given maintainence is performed as the Camry. It looks like the Impala will cost you less to aquire, in my opinion it will cost about the same to maintain, i.e., tires, brakes, oil changes etc. I don't see why the Impala shouldn't last you the 70-80K more miles you are looking to get out of it.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    I am having a horn issue on my car. We bought the car new in Oct of 04. Right after we bought it I noticed the horn would cut in and out with the dual notes. One time it would seem to be dual, the next time it would be only a single. Since it was intermittent and only the horn I didn't really worry about it.

    Finally though the low not gave out alltogether. Since it is still under warranty I took it into the dealer to have them replace the low note. It worked fine for a couple of weeks, but now the horn is starting to act up again, only this time the sound is a strained sound - kind of like a childs toy that is running out of battery juice. Except the horn sounds this way whether the car is running or not.

    Normally I wouldn't really worry about it, since it really isn't a major issue and it has been the only issue with the car. But the sound is really pitifull and it doesn't produce the volume that I would want should the horn ever be needed. Also did I mention the sound it pitifull - like a vehicle pleading and gasping on its last breath :sick:

    So my question is, I know it is under warranty and I can get it fixed no problem, but could there be something withing the wiring of the horn that could be causing it to go bad? My fear is that I'll take it in, they'll fix it and it'll last just long enough past the warranty period and then it'll get all cow sick on me again and I'll have to foot the bill.

    This has been the only issue aside from a large unsightly gap between the top of the dash and the front of the dash that I should have caught before we even bought the car. The vehicle has been great. It gets great mileage, is comfortable, has decent power even with the 3.4 motor.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    I know this is a reply to a late message but I experienced the same thing a few days ago. When the trunk is popped, it barley pops enough that it is easy to miss and not notice while getting into the vehicle. The gas struts will also keep it from popping up while driving.

    And so I was going down the road when I heard a chime and noticed the trunk ajar warning light. The the car went over a slight bump and the light instantly went away. A little ways further the same thing happened and then as the car would hit a bump or the trunk would settle slightly triggering the sensor, the light would go away. I drove the rest of the way home and sure enough, the trunk lid was popped. This was on an 04 Impala
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    assuming you bought the car new in 04 it would still be under warranty until nov of 07 unless you are past the 36K mile mark....

    If it is still under warranty, take it to the dealership to have it fixed. They shoudn't give you any hassel. If it's not under warranty, I don't know what the cost would be, but it shouldn't be outrageous.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    The Battery Install fairly simple. You are correct in that the cross support bar must be removed, but it's only a couple of bolts and it moves out of the way. Than an 8 MM wrench or socket (I recomend a inexpensive double sided ratchet wrench specially designed for side GM battery posts).

    You can get a good battery from Wal-mart (as long as it is Johnson Controls and not an Exxide), or any other place like Autozone or Checker. Some places will even install for you at no cost, like Walmart. You can get a battery from Wal-mart for about $40 with no installation charge.

    Or you can do it yourself. It really is only a 10 minute job given that there is no major corrosion to clean or terminals that need to be replaced.

    To remove the battery, undo the bolts holding the crossmember support over the battery which I believe are 13 MM. Move that up out of the way. Than remove the terminals negative side (black) first with the 8 MM wrench or socket. Like I mentioned before there is a specialized battery tool that is inexpensive that works well for this. You can probably find it next to the battery display where there is also new terminals and cables and such.

    There is a 13 MM bolt holding the battery to the battery tray down on the back side of the battery that also must be loosened. A long extension works for this. After those are loose, the batter lifts out. Depending on how corroded or how much acid or how safe you feel you want to be, a pair of gloves might be recomended for this part so that you don't get battery acid on your hands.

    Install is the reverse of removal-mounting bolt, terminals and then the crossmember support. Before connecting the terminals clean them with a little bit of baking soda mixed with water and an old toothbrush. Install the positive (red) first and then the negative and you should be good to go although you will have to reset your radio presets and the clock. You may also have to reprogram your door locks (if you have such a feature) and how they operate?? Not sure as I don't remember when I removed the battery in my car a while back.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    At Walmart you for your needs, you can get all the tools you need for probaly less than the $36 install charge and then you have the tools to keep in your car for emergencies or for other uses.

    If you decide to go this route, I would recomend a 3/8 drive ratchet with extension and a metric socket set. Most bolts on your car will be metric. I would also recomend a metric/standard combo wrench set as well. These will probably run close to the $36?? If you get the Stanley brand. They make less expensive sets, but the Stanley is higher quality. You might even find a combo set that has both sockets and wrenches in both standard and metric for a good price. I don't know; it's been a while since I have looked.

    So all told, you might end up spending as much getting the tools to do the job as you would paying someone (or you can have Wal-mart do it at no charge), but then you wouldn't get to experience the hands on experience. Also by spending the money on the tools, you have something to show for it and also now you have them so the next time a small problem comes around, you just might be able to take care of it yourself... and save even more money because now those tools will pay for themselves.

    FWIW - I just finished a brake job today that by the time I was done cost me about $140. I ended up having to buy not only new pads, but new rotors as well. What should have been a 17 dollar job (the cost of the pads), ended up being $140 because of the rotors. It would have been even more if I had taken it in to a shop. The only "tools" I had to buy was grease for the wheel bearings and brake fluid. All the tools I needed I already had. This marks the upteenth brake job I have done on my vehicles and I have always used the same tools which may have cost me all told a total of $20.

    Anyway, I don't know why I shared that story, but I guess I did because it goes to show that you can save a lot by doing a lot of things yourself - like changing a battery or a brake job, even if you have to buy the tools first....

    Or maybe it's just late and I have no idea what I am talking about and I should just go to bed. :D
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    glad you got it done.... :D
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    I would venture to say that it could be the battery. Although I had thought that Interstate batteries were pretty good and reliable. Although that might depend on the size and what it's being used for. I personally feel that a battery should go for at least 4 or 5 years without a problem and then some.

    Here is what I would do. Since it seems that the Interstate is not lasting as long as you think it should, I would head to Autozone and get the 3 year battery. From the research that I have done, it is a Johnson Controls battery which is one of the best batteries you can get. While at Autozone, I would have them check your charging system. They should be able to do this. They might even install the battery for you. That way you can determine if there is a problem in the charging system that could be leading to premature battery failure. They might can also check to see if there is a leak in the system that drains the battery while the vehicle is off. This may or may not be noticeable if the car is driven frequently. But if you have ever noticed a slight drag on the starter after the car has sat several hours, it could be possible that there is a slight draw on the battery once the car is shut off and that can also lead to premature battery failure.

    But I think it is battery related and not vehicle related, given the time frames you mentioned. Usually a vehicle related problem that kills batteries rears it's ugly head after only a couple of months and not a couple of years.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    I think that you should do well with the Duralast battery. A previous poster stated that Interstates didn't fair well in Consumer tests and the Duralast is a Johnson Controls battery which is one of the best batteries that you can buy. Plus with the 3 year free replacement, if it does go bad within 3 years, no worries on a pro-rated charge. Just a new battery and you are good to go.....
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    I would wager that the notice is an automaticly generated notice that tells the dealership when a certain "inspection" may be needed based on the year of the car. Or it could be tied to the Vin # or somehow the computer figures out based on the average driver where a car might be at in in life and generates a notice to the dealer. The dealer then sends out a card or could make a phone call to let the owner know that thier car might possibly be "in need" of an inspection.

    I get those notices all the time for oil changes, mileage maintenance, and most recently for warranty extension coverage since my vehicle "might" be coming up on an expired factory warranty.

    Since I do all my own maintenance and keep pretty good track of what needs to be done, I just disregard these notices. Most likely, your "GM Certified" Impala recieved whatever services required by GM to be considered "Certified". The dealer may or may not recognize the notice as belonging to a car they just sold off thier certified lot and just mass mailed what ever notices came through the pipeline that month.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    You cannot adjust the timing manually the Impala, much less any newer car. Most newer cars these days are all electronically controlled and therefore the computer does all the work. Which would make me think that what you mentioned about disconnecting the battery and reconnecting makes a little sense but I don't know if the car's computer will actually make a 30% timing adjustment on it's own? I have never heard of that, but then again, I am not a gear head so what do I know?

    Have you tired calling this LSG company and asking what they recomend? It might require taking it to a mechaninc that has the ability to plug into the car's computer and "manually" adjust the timing?
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    Please do... I would be interested to know, although it will be awhile before I need to change plugs. I am only at 25K right now and the way it's going it's going to be near another 7 years before I get to 100K at 10K a year.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    I would also tend to think that it is related to the coolant. My '04 does it and has done since new. I have never taken it in to have it checked out, but I don't think it's a major deal. But I do think it is air in the cooling system that could be aleviated by have the system purged??
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    sounds like this is an recurring issue. Mine is also an '04 with the 3.4. Not a serious issue, but could be annoying listening to that sound of gurgling water. Sounds like flushing the toilet in the car. :D...

    Maybe I'll try changing out the coolant or locating those bleed valves.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    Wish I could help on the oil coated plug (sounds like oil blow-by). That sounds a little odd even at 112K miles no matter what the motor. Usually the indicates worn out ring seals, but if a motor has been maintained properly, then that shouldn't be a problem. Something doesn't quite add up. From what I know, the 3.4 is a fairly stout motor, although not as bullet proof as the 3.8.

    The sludge issue in the radiator however, I can attest that the GM's "brilliant" Dex-cool is not all that it is cracked up to be. My 01 S-10 had Dex-cool in it and by 75K and 4 years it was a brown as a mud and just about a cruddy. I had it changed out the same time the radiator tanks were replaced. So at 112K miles and 4 years old on your car, I am not surprised to see that it has sludged up....

    So a couple of things could have happened. Either the mechanic you took it to is trying to pull a fast on on the oil coated plug (probable, but since I don't know the mechanic or thier business pratices, I can't point the finger at them), and the motor really is okay, since it is highly unusual even at 112K to have blown seals on a regularly maintained engine.

    It is also possible that the you blew a head gasket and coolant leaked into the combustion chamber and deteriorated the ring seals. But I think you would have noticed a burning coolant smell and or noticed coming out the tail pipe (For that matter, with oil coated plugs, you should also see evidence of oil in the combustion chamber coming out of the tail pipe).

    Also possible is that maintenance was not performed as it should before you got the car, but if you aquired it at 16K that's not a long time to do permanent damage. Even if the car only received one oil change in the 16K period, that's not too extreme. With the quality of today's oils, 16K and one oil change is pushing the limit, but shouldn't have caused permanent damage. So like I said before, something doesn't sound right. It is also possible that you just got a flukey car that just happened to do atypical things... Sometimes you just have that luck.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    That's good that you have a mechanic like that... I had one in AZ that was just like that. He never charged me for just "looking", or even to reset a check engine light...

    It is odd that you are having such problems as my 3.4 has plenty of go juice. Not going to blow you out of the water of course, but plenty adequate. So maybe you really did just get a flukey car. Luckily, if you liked the car otherwise, they are a dime a dozen and you can get one pretty cheap. Even the newer ones from 06 can be had at a pretty good bargain and they make the '00-05 ones look a decade old.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    GET RID OF DEXCOOL. Yes, the brown sludge is caused by the long-life coolant. There is a a coolant now that is interchangible, or at least can be used with both GM Dex-Cool and regular green stuff. You can find it in both orange and green. Or you once the radiator is completely flushed of the old stuff you can put back in regular green.

    I would recomend you go with the interchangible stuff. With that you can probably change it every other year or so without a problem. I am not really sure what the change interval on coolant is, but I do know that I have never been able to go more than 3 years on Dex-Cool, even though it says it is good for 5 or 150K miles.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    Prestone makes both the long life, dual use and regular. Also any parts house like Autozone or Checker will have a couple of brands. Wal-mart has the Prestone and also it's house brand. It's about 10 bucks a gallon or so. Not sure about the regular stuff hurting any of the seals? I wouldn't think so, but then again I don't know. Everything I own I have switched over to the dual use.

    I notice this forum is a little slow sometimes and you might want to post your question here as well.

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.ef790fb/0

    You might get a better response and probably a more qualified one too. It is also possible that the very question you are asking is contained through out the discussion.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    awsome... good story. Thanks. I forgot that most exhause systems have an 80K mile warranty on them...
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    wow - then 04 must have been the golden year. My 04 with 25K miles on has only been to the shop once for a faulty horn. And the tires have never been rotated and they still have the same tread all the way around.... although they do and should have been rotated a long time ago, but I am still running at about 8/32's of tread.

    But then again, it is also a base bare bones model. 3.4 motor, and all the basic options. All in all, been a great car. I do wish I had bought the used cream color LS one they had on the lot... it already had 25K on it, but it was an LS and even had a sun roof..... but financing was better on the new one so that's what we got.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    I might suggest, but this is just me and Delco radios, but if you're going to take the radio out to try and fix it, you might as well just replace it with a decent aftermarket one. You can get a really good one for less than $200, and even decent ones for close to a $100 now-a-days. That way you wouldn't have to worry about the factory player messing up again even if you did fix it. Just don't forget to to buy the chime adapter as well because (this is why I really dis-like Delco and GM radios) GM thought it would be a great idea to run all the chimes and door lock functions and even the oil life monitor through the radio. You still have to mount the factory radio somewhere in the car, like the trunk, so that you still have access to all those functions. Or so I've been told since I have never done it myself.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    Quick question. 2004 3.4 with 27K miles. At a steady speed, generally low speeds in the range of 5-35 MPH, sometimes at higher highway speeds, the motor will seem to stumble, almost as if the fuel flow was cut-off.

    I am thinking this is signs of a clogged fuel filter. Car has 27K miles and it has never been changed. How hard is it to change a fuel filter on this car?? I've done it on my trucks, but never on this car...
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    Do I need to relieve the fuel pressure first? I failed to do that on my S-10 and I ended up with an ear and face full of fuel... It wasn't the most enjoyable experience and I don't want a repeat if I can help it.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    ya - that is the way you relieve the pressure on my S-10. There is a valve next to the throttle body... I assumed there might be on on the Impala, but I hadn't bothered to check under the hood yet. Call me lazy I guess. The whole procedure sounds just like what I did to for my truck. Pretty basic.

    Maybe I'll try the fuse thing and see what happens. If not, a little bit of degreaser and a good hosedown of the engine bay would get rid of any lingering gas and keep it from burning and smelling off. Thanks for the info.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    Fuel filter is done changed... we'll see if it helps or if the stumble is still there. I pulled the fuel pump fuse under the hood and ran the car until it died, then cranked it over again to relieve all the pressure. Then I depressed the pressure relief valve under the hood. I have this gas phobia and didn't want to get sprayed again.

    Loosened the nut side of the filter first and let the remaining gas drain out. There was no pressure so it didn't spray, thankfully. Put the new filter on. All in all about 15 minutes worth of work.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    yes this is good to know... if it weren't for the fact that all the door locks, chimes and oil life monitor settings were also controlled by the CD player head unit, I would have already replaced the factory unit.

    I know you can buy an adpater and such, but I don't want to deal with it and I don't drive the car enough to need/want better sound. My wife drives it mostly and she thinks the sound is fine and the CD player still works just fine too... By the time the CD player needs replacing if and when it quits, I think the car will have been replaced. It only gets about 10K a year if that. We bought it 3 years ago next month and it just barely broke 27K.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    so how often should these air filters be changed? Mine has 3 years and almost 30K miles since new.

    Also I have been having issues with the horn. I have taken it twice to the dealership and they have replaced the horn twice. Once was the low note, the next they said it was the high note and just after we got home from picking it up for that, I checked the horn and it was only one tone again. I guess I should have tested it before I left the dealership, but oh well. Back it goes. It has to go back and sit overnight anyway so they can test an intermittent stumble.

    I can't figure out what the stumble is. I feels as if the fuel flow is being cut off. I have changed fuel filters and also changed brands of gas. No codes have been tripped, and of course when we took it in, it showed no symptoms at all. So we are going to leave it overnight because it is most noticeable first thing in the morning.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    can't help you on the blinkers, but any dealer's body shop will be able to repaint the spoiler with the proper color. For that matter, any reputable body shop has access to all factory colors and would be able to repaint your spoiler as well.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    actually, they haven't figured it out... I have yet to take it back again. They have fixed it twice so far. I have a mind to just get a horn and do it myself and see what happens... If I do I'll let you know the prognosis.

    The history is as old as we have had the car. I first noticed the problem when we first bought it and every once in a while the horn would only sound one note of it's dual horns. Then after about 1 1/2 years or so it finally became a constant single not horn. It stayed that way until I took it in to have it fixed and it stayed fixed for about a month. I took it back it and I didn't try the horn until I got it home, and when I did, I noticed it only had one note. That was a couple months ago and I haven't been back yet. Call me lazy, but it hasn't been a high priority for me... the car is now out of warranty, and although I am sure I could take it back and state my case, I am not sure I want to deal with the hassel. I would much rather just get a new horn and replace it myself and see what happens.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    can't be too hard... depending on where it's located. A couple of bolts and a wiring harness I am sure is all it is. Getting to it is probably the hardest part...

    edit: I just did some quick research on the net since the car isn't home right now for me to look at and it appears that the horn is located behind the rh (passenger?)headlight. When my car gets home, I'll take a closer look and see if I can tell without tearing anything apart.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    hmmm.. wonder if they will still cover my horn under warranty, since I am now out?? I should take it back and see what they do since it was been in twice now for the horn while under warranty. Thanks for the info; I just might give it a shot....

    BTW, I just completed a 2600 (finally after 3 1/2 years of ownership, I broke 30K miles) mile round trip from Oregon to AZ and back in my Imp. This was the longest I had spent in the car and the longest trip it has ever taken... A few things to report. While it wasn't a horrible trip (I can think of worse vehicles to make a long trip in), it wasn't entirely without discomfort. The seats began to get hard after about 8 hours of sitting in them and I found it hard sometimes to get comfortable... but then again, I think that almost any vehicle's seats would be a tad hard after so long in them.

    I will say that I appreciated the room. The large trunk and the lack of goosneck hinges allowed me to stuff all our luggage and our substantial amount of presents into it. The only thing in the cabin of the car was the car seat, a stack of DVD's and, a couple of pillows and blankets and our snacks. Even with the 3.4 motor, I was never at a lack of passing power or hill climbing power. The transmission did an okay job of hill holding as long as I was able to maintain 60-70. Any slower and I was having to brake more than I like on the hills. Average speed was probably in the upper 70's and I was able to maintain an average of 30 MPG. When we got to town, the tank I burned while running around town dropped to 25, but all tanks all the highway returned over 30 and I even crept close to 32 when I filled up with premium by accident. So overall, not a bad travel car.

    I honestly still like my S-10 though, although it is not a family vehicle, gets way worse mileage and rides more like a truck. But it is actually quieter at highway speeds and the seats are more comfortable and it has a better stereo... but I digress. If you are looking for a good, reliable and spacious comfort family car, I say Impala. I'd buy another, but by the time it reaches that point, I'll need a larger car.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    just leave it in drive... my opinion anyway. I've heard rumors and reports that it saves transmissions to have it 3rd while in town, but I haven't found definitive proof. I have never had a problem leaving any vehicle I own in D, including my 04 Impala. It's quiet enough and smooth enough that I never feel the gear changes, but in my S-10, also with a 4 speed auto, while in town and at low speed (below 35 MPH), if I drop it from D to 3rd, it doesn't shift down because it is already still in 3rd. It's not till above 35 MPH that it shifts to D...
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    Just trying to think ahead as summer is coming and so is the heat, but I also want to keep up on prevenative maintenance. 04 Imp, with the 3.4 motor. 34K miles. It's only been a few thousand miles, but it has also been 3 years (build date was early-mid 04, can't remember exactly when, but it's coming up close to it's 4 year build date anniversary). Would it be wise and prudent to change to coolant out, or am I just being overly cautious?
  • randy714randy714 Posts: 2
    hi,i need to get to the wiper motor but don't know how to go about it.can someone please tell me how
  • lisa0721lisa0721 Posts: 1
    I was just told of the recall or settlement for the intake manifold of the Chevy Impala. We just had ours replaces for about $700 or so. The gasket was leaking, somehow causing the heater to not work. I couldn't get any heat to defrost my windows on those cold spring mornings. We also had a ignition sensor replaced just a month before the intake manifold. And yes, my steering wheel makes a lot of clicking noises when turning. Thanks for the info.
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Posts: 311
    the intake settlement is a done deal, they extended the warranty a few years but it is long past.

    the clunking is an easy fix, look under the dashboard for the ISS (intermediate steering shaft., they had a problem with them binding up because of the loss of lubracation. Take some wd-40 or any type of lube oil, you will see a rubber boot. inside that boot is a mini u-joint that slides on a splined shaft. peel back the boot and spay some stuff in there, your clunk is gone. You can also try putting some grease in there instead. I have to spray ours about once a year, a 5 minute job. Don't let the dealer try to sell you an ISS
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Posts: 870
    A product called "PBBlaster" seemed to work pretty well for this too.

    Another thing I discovered towards the end of my Impala's time with me; if you wipe down the weather strip around the doors with silicon spray (spray it on a rag, then rub on the rubber to avoid over-spray) it REALLY quietened the ride. As the rubber dries out it starts to squeak, but applying silicon made mine sound as quiet as new (well, except for the occasional ISS clunking).

    (Oh, and if anybody cares, I DID finally find my pin set that I got for taking part in the 2001 Impala brochure...they were in the one stack of boxes in the garage that I didn't go through last time. Also found a couple of other items I cherished as much, that I'd accused my wife of throwing away, so had to eat a little crow on that one.)
  • zramilzramil Posts: 1
    :confuse: hi all, i have noticed sort of a low pitch noise in the cabin while breaking or just driving without pressing the gas pedal. weird thing is that there is no noise when breaking and I 1) press gas pedal, 2) press and keep holding power windows buttons or 3) turn on rear window defrost. Anybody had this or any ideas what that might be? bought this used wiht 60,000+miles just few days ago and there was nothing .. would appreciate any help. thanks.
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