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2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala



  • I don't think it is a big job to change the oil pan. But why would you need a new one? Did you bottom out the car on something and dent the oil pan?
    Or do you live along the shore and salt water rusted it?

    To remove the oil pan you have to remove 12 bottom bolts and 6 side bolts.
    For safety you may want to disconnect the battery first. You will have to put the vehiclel up on ramps. You may need to remove the serpentine belt and belt tensioner. You may need to remove the front exhaust and Steering gear pinch bolt. Disconnect oil level sensor. Remove the starter and your hood. Remove the flywheel driveplate cover, remove the passenger side upper motor mount. Place a floor jack under the frame front crossmember, loosen cross member left side bolts. Remove the right side crossmember bolts. Remove the cranksahft pulley, and remove oil filter shield.
  • Thank you for your help. I live in Wisconsin where we put lotsa salt on the highways. The pan is rusted and the bolt won't loosen up. Just preparing for the worst. Maybe the oil pan gasket can be replaced w/o doing the oil pan itself. It is a 2000 but just over 100,000 miles.
  • Your radio is fine. The problem is that the power cable to your factory amplifier has a corroded connection beneath your carpet that stems from a displaced seal beneath your windshield (We'll get to that in a minute).

    The wiring fix is a simple do it yourself job so follow along. Remove the lower door trim from the front and rear passenger side door openings then remove the lower pillar trim between the doors. Untab the carpet along both doors and pull back. You will find a wiring harness that runs along the passenger side rocker. Open the harness directly below the pillar and you will find a one-into-two crimp orange wire splice that will be corroded. Repair this connection and while you're in there repair the other two crimps that consist of a one-into-two black wire connection and a one-into-three black wire connection. Repair them one at a time to avoid mixing up wires and be sure to use dielectric grease on your crimp connections and use shrink tube to seal them.

    ROOT CAUSE: Displaced seal beneath the passenger side air inlet cowl directly below the passenger side wiper. These get blown out of place by pressure washing and allow water to cascade into your blower unit then down beneath your carpet.

    REPAIR: Park your wipers in the up position and remove the key from the ignition. Unclip the passenger side wiper washer line and move it below the inlet cowl. Next, remove the two small push type retainers and the single larger screw out retainer from the inlet cowl.

    Pull inlet cowl free and put it aside. Look down into the opening and you will find a displaced seal, and (I guarantee you) a very dirty, plugged cabin filter. Replace the cabin filter taking care to work it under it's large retaining tab to your right rear of the blower inlet.

    Once the cabin filter has been replaced, clean the leading metal edge over the cabin filter (just beneath windshield) and the seal that fit's over it. Apply a healty dose of silicone adhesive to the thin opening of the seal and fit it back where it belongs above the cabin filter. Next, locate the water drain to your left and make sure that it is not plugged. Wait an hour or so for the seal to set and re-assemble.

    Take care when washing your car to not put direct water pressure along the base of your windshield and the seal should stay where it belongs.

    Good Luck, Jeff
  • I'm curious to know as well. I have had to replace my water pump and radiator! My water pump showed signs of leakage and was suggested that it be replaced before it went out and my 2004 Impala Ls overheated on me along with a few small but annoying problems that add up. Oh and yes my check engine light is on.....fuel tank small leak! Smh. My car has over 100,000 miles on it well cared for and I will not be retuning to purchase a Chevy again-lease but never buying again. Sorry Gm.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    An overheating / cooling system problem could impact your transmission, especially if parts in the transmission are made from aluminum. Aluminum heats up much faster than steel. If your car runs hot or overheats, then the transmission fluid will heat up and the transmission's components will heat up. This excessive heat will damage your transmission. If your car overheats, it is a safe practice to change your transmission fluid irrespective if you had changed it recently, prior to the overheat condition. I am unsure whether key transmission components are made from aluminum in GM's products. However, this may explain the problem that you had experienced. Good luck.
  • dm22dm22 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 chevy imp 3.8 k...this past summer the heater hose fitting pretty much just fell apart, the whole bottom of it was gone. After realizing it was only a 4$ part my father and i replaced it. It ran like a champ until about two weeks ago it started to not heat like it should. We put anitfreeze in several times so we knew there was a leak but had not been able to pin point it. Last night we pulled into a restauraunt and theres smoke every where. Once again the stupid little $4 part was destroyed again. Does anybody have any clue what could be making this happen. PLZ HELP!!!!
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    Here is the issue I am currently dealing with. I have an 04 Impala with the 3.4 motor. It had (well still has) its entire gauge cluster go out. None of the gauges read correctly and I finally after 2 years ordered a "new" cluster to replace the wonky one. I know the stepper motors for this particular generation of Impala to be chronically faulty; indeed I think GM had several years of bad gauge cluster needles through out several models however, I don't think that is the issue here.

    I replaced the entire cluster. Then while on the road traveling at highway speeds my wife commented that the car felt like it was driving funny and losing power. She said it would also randomly kick off the cruise control. I thought it was just because we were driving through the mountains and that is why the car felt like it was losing power... every time it would slip back into drive, the gearing was such it couldn't keep up. That was my theory until I drove it on the next leg of our 1400 mile trip. I noticed that the speedometer would flick like you had shut the car off and then turned it back on. The speedometer was the only gauge to do this. When it did this the cruise would kick off. Sometimes the needle would fall almost to 30 or 40 (from 75 mph) before kicking back on, other times it was just a few mph before coming back to the current speed.

    I didn't think much of this as the car was acting normal otherwise. Then however I noticed as I was trying to go up a hill, I felt the car suddenly lose all power. It's hard to describe although as it continued to do this, I finally figured out it felt like it was hitting the speed limiter and the computer was shutting the car down. I've never hit the limiter in this car before as I think it's set somewhere north of 115 MPH and this car has a hard time getting to that point, however I have hit it in several other GM vehicles and this was the exact same sensation. Only it was doing it at 65-80 MPH. Usually under a heavy load like a pedal to the floor load. So the only thing I could think at the time was the new cluster. So when we stopped for the night, I swapped clusters back out to see if the old one would make the car exhibit the same symptoms. It didn't change. Again the only needle that would flick would be the speedometer (only this time it flicked the needle when it was pointing straight down at the steering column since the motors were stripped and this is where the needle was stuck at this point).

    So it appears that the symptom is not related to the gauge cluster but rather something else. Would it be the speed sensor? And if so where is it? The other question I have is I changed unplugged them while the ignition was "hot" (key in the run position) because I needed the shift lever in first gear to remove the dash panel and the cluster. Would this have cause my issue and shorted something out? (Yes I know that was a fubar on my part, the battery should have been disconnected and yadda yadda). Now I am just trying to track what I need to fix and make sure I don't have any other major issues. I will note that after several hundred miles the symptoms decreased and we could finally use the cruise again for several miles. Until I hit hills again and put the motor under load and it would act up again occasionally hitting the "speed limiter" if indeed that is was it is doing. I don't know if that is what it is doing, but that is the sensation I get when it does its thing.
  • Well, this impala has a defect in the transmission in my opinion. k's of the same complaint in the us and canada. Sorry we all can't be wrong and we need to get together on this.
  • Suggestion: Buy a Ford! Sorry to be a smart aleck, but my granddaughter bought, with my assistance, a 2005 Chevy Impala, and it was major problems with the engine, cooling, and most everything under the hood. Though the transmission doesn't seem to be a problem. Have had it 15-16 months and no problems to speak of after spending about $ 3,000 to repair and replace a bunch of items.

    File a complaint with the Federal Trade Commission, if the Chevy Dealer can't assist you. This is happening with everything we buy nowadays, whether it's made in China or not.
  • I had the same issue after I had water come in on the passenger side after a rainstorm. The factory amp is in the trunk and can be replaced much cheaper than the radio itself. Or if you know someone who is good at wiring have them bypass the amp, that is what I had done. The amp controls the power to the speakers, that is all that is wrong when you have display but no sound.
  • I have an 05 Impala that vhas an oder like natural gas. When I first noticed this the tranasmission started to slip at red lights and then launch. What would cause this?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,001
    Good morning rockarosa,
    Have you had any luck in getting this evaluated since your post? If you decide on visiting a GM dealership and would like for us to follow up on anything with them, be sure to contact us at (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and a recap of the situation at hand).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • Good Morning Customer care, I hope fully solved my problem and traded my car in on a 2012 chevy Impala with the 6 speed transmission. Looked at Hyundia's but got a good deal on the Impala. Hope they solved the transmission defect.
  • I know im super late...If problem is still happening, i have some knowledge for you. So place that you get air from have water in there hoses...I work at Discount Tire and i learned that chrome peal comes from water sitting inside tire and and the rim soaks it up and it warps and then some what explode. that what makes the come start coming apart from wheel and start tearing tire up
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,001
    Congratulations on your new Impala, rockarosa! If you should ever need anything, we can be reached at (please include your name and contact information and the last 8 digits of your VIN with your inquiry).

    Many happy miles!
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • chevowner2chevowner2 Posts: 1
    edited March 2013
    Don't count on Dynacell Batteries for the warranty. The Dynacell battery in my truck failed after 24 months of use and Dynacell refused to honor the 36 month replacement guarantee. I received a rude email from Mr. Skip Humphries stating they would not reimburse me for the replacement battery. The battery was installed by the local Chevrolet Dealer here in Ocala, FL. I would never purchase another Dynacell battery and Chevrolet has stopped using their batteries.
  • bobisnextbobisnext Posts: 3

    I have a 2005 impala base sedan with no tachometer.

    I want to install a digital tach. in the past the tach wire was connected to one side of the coil.

    Where is the "coil" on the newer cars?

  • cobcob Posts: 210
    The coils are attached to the metal bracket on the top back of engine where all six spark plug wires are also attached. Not sure which wire you would use from that harness to hook up a tach. A easier way would be to get a gage cluster from a LS model or a Monte Carlo. Either one will plug into the existing harness and screw into place in the dash. Only issue will be the odometer miles will not be the same as your current cluster.
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