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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,548
    I just bought my Tacoma 4X4 V6 Access cab last week. This past Sunday, I was in a Kroger's parking lot looking for a parking space. I wasn't going more than 10 MPH (probably less). Hit the brakes when I found a spot and.......NO BRAKES. I pumped them trying to get some pressure, but the pedal just went to the floor.

    In panic mode, I looked around to where I could find a stationary obstacle, that wasn't a building, person or another car to stop my runaway truck. Finally spied a concerte divider and steered towards it. The front wheels went right over the concrete. One of the back wheels did "catch" the concrete and it stopped with an abrupt jolt.

    Long and short of it, I mangled one of the wheels. The dealership flat bedded it to their service dept and gave me a loaner car.

    This truck has about 100 miles on it. It's been in their shop going on 3-days with no news. They said they're still investigating the situation.

    I told my salesperson I don't have any faith in the truck and want a new one. She said she'd take it up with the dealership's General Manager So far, no response.

    You guys have any ideas?
  • shroudshroud Posts: 78
    I'm dismayed to hear this about the paint chipping problem on Tacomas. I was really starting to think about buying one, but given the paint issue I don't really think I can do that. I dont like the looks of the Honda Ridgeline so I guess I'll have to look into the Nissan Frontier.
  • wooddorkerwooddorker Posts: 300
    Just a suggestion. The parking brake uses a cable and will usually stop a vehicle with total hydraulic brake failure. Using the parking brake all the time may help you remember it in an emergency. I know that's easy for me to say after the fact, I'm not trying to break 'em off on you..

    Good luck with getting the problem fixed and it's good to hear no one was injured and the property damage was minimal.

    I've heard of this on many brands of cars, usually related to an ABS failure. Luckily, it dosen't happen very often. A friend of my father's went brakeless through a busy intersection in a brand-new Suburban, rear ending a car waiting to turn left.
  • nbtacomanbtacoma Posts: 15
    I have a 2005 2wd Access Cab Silver Streak Mica - bought from a dealer here in New Brunswick, Canada. No issues with the vehicle so far and very nice to drive compared to my 1996. Only time will tell how it holds up to that one because it was an awesome truck. Anyway, I've seen plenty of Tacos around and haven't noticed any paint chipping (yes, I walked up and looked). I wonder where Canadian Tacos come from (California?) and if this makes a difference in some of the paint issues. Also, the truck is only 3 months old so maybe it is something they worked out during later production.
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,548
    wood....thanks. At the time, I didn't even think about the e-brake (although I should have). I just kept pumping the brake pedal hoping to get a response (which never came). I was in panic mode at the time, if I can use that as a defense for not thinking of the e-brake.

    Since the truck is new, I've asked them to replace my vehicle. They haven't said no, but they haven't said yes, either.

    The dealer has had my truck, including today, that makes 3-days with no news one way or the other.
  • etoilebetoileb Posts: 34
    First off: I'm glad you're around to tell the tale. Could have been much worse.

    Secondly, don't give the vehicle back to Toyota, go and get an independent diagnosis before Toyota touch it. Having a vehicle that "fails" in a week with potential catastrophic consequences, is a major problem for Toyota and they will probably wish to manage any liabilities.

    I'm not suggesting that they are going tamper with the evidence, but to avoid a conflict of interest, you should obtain an independent report probably with your insurer's blessing.

    Good luck
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,548
    Thanks.....Toyota already has the truck. That's where it was towed (tow set up and paid for by Toyota).

    I consider it a serious safety issue....whether they can confirm or not. I can see this is going to be a long, drag out process with these guys. Maybe they can duplicate the problem, maybe they can't. Fact is, I experienced it.

    I've got a meeting with the service mgr today. Dealership says the GM isn't in until Friday. But, I'm certainly not going to drive the truck home. It will sit there, even if this becomes a force of wills to get it resolved.
  • jimmerjimmer Posts: 9
    So how did you end up getting rid of the tacoma? Did you take a loss or was honda fair on a trade in? Cause I 've had so many issues with mine, I'd like to know how to get rid of it with only a little loss! I think toyota's problem regarding their quality with the new trucks has to do with them being built in the same factory as the Pontiac Vibe. Ya GM Crappy quality!!
  • wooddorkerwooddorker Posts: 300
    It'll be interesting to see how many signatures show up.

    In April '05 alone, Toyota sold 13,231 Tacomas and 49,241 YTD 2005, as of April 30.

    http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2005/05/03/057818.html

    While these numbers are down a skootch from '04, the entire auto industry has been down, and Tacomas were in short supply at the beginning of the year.
  • tacoguytacoguy Posts: 12
    jimmer, I ended up trading in my 3 month old Tacoma at a loss! Believe me, in the end, Toyota did me a favor. Though the Tacoma was a nice truck, this gave me the opportunity to experience the Honda Ridgeline. Ridgeline IS a superior truck in every way. For the poster who said "I don't like the look of the Ridgeline...get a Nissan..." DO YOURSELF A FAVOR! Go look at the Ridgeline and take it for a spin and see and feel the difference!! You won't be sorry.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    the petition post violates the Membership Agreement regarding solicitation, specifically this portion:

    You agree that, except with Edmunds.com's prior consent, you will not (either in your Postings or in your profile) solicit or promote any products or services, self-promote, or implore readers to take actions that are intended to further a personal purpose.

    A noble cause, but not allowed.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • Starter engages with ignition turned off, only way to stop it, is to disconnect the battery, I had the starter tested, checked out okay, disconnected wiring from ignition switch, still, engaged, removed starter relay, same thing, disconneted positive wire from alternator, no change. anyone got any ideas. Thanks
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    When you say "won't disengage," do you mean it won't stop running or the starter gear won't disengage from the ring gear? If you mean the starter gear won't disengage from the ring gear, then I'd bet the little return spring is broken.
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,548
    taco....I'm meeting with the Toyota Regional rep tomorrow about my brake failures on my '05 Tacoma SR5 V6 4X4 automatic, TRD option package 4. My guess is, they'll try to fix it one last time. I want another truck as I've totally lost faith in this one. Whether that happens or not, I don't know. As of today, the dealership has had it twice as long as it was in my driveway. I hate to go through the hassel, but I may have to invoke lemon law mediation for a refund. That takes a long time and a lot of work for something I've driven only 3 days over the past two weeks of ownership.

    What differences did you find between the Ridgeline and the Tacoma?

    How much of a loss did you take on the Tacoma? Mine has less than 200 miles on it.
  • Starter won't stop running even with the switch off. I am leaning toward a bad ignition switch. I had it tested, starter is ok. Thanks
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    My father in law has a tractor that will do that if the battery is low. A low battery will put more strain on the solenoid. The contact points will heat up and stick together.

    But, if you can put the starter in a bench vise, then hook it directly to a battery, and it doesn't start, then it very well could be the switch. Use a volt meter to check for voltage to the ignition wire at the starter connection. This will be the small wire connected to the solenoid. If you have voltage on that wire with the switch in any position other that start, then you have a defective switch.
  • tacoguytacoguy Posts: 12
    graphicguy,
    If I'm not mistaken, in addition to the 3 shots to fix it portion of the lemon law, there is also some sort of time spent at the shop (not sure of the exact verbiage) clause to the lemon law as well. This could be an option. I'm surprised YOU actually are meeting the Regional rep. The guy who covers PA wouldn't even talk to me on the phone. He was at the dealership while I was speaking to the service manager from work about his decision and he wouldn't even get on the phone. NOW THAT'S CUSTOMER SERVICE FOR YOU!

    Regarding differences between Tacoma and Ridgeline …more spacious interior (front, much more rear, headroom more all-round feel…), nicer and much more clever rear seat-b-gone feature (1 hand, 1 move), much quieter ride, 4-wheel independent suspension (no rear axle) makes for a TON better ride and driving experience (every comparison I’ve seen in mags say Ridgeline is the best riding pickup they’ve ever driven). It is like driving on rails (very responsive), closed box frame with unit-body construction makes entire truck feel, drive and ride extremely well (Tacoma and other trucks have a bed and a cab bolted to a ladder frame and when hitting bumps there is the shudder action of the bed and cab vibrating at a different frequency or phase). The 8 cubic foot lockable (with key or keyless entry) trunk under the bed is OUTSTANDING, dual swing tailgate. It is great to swing the gate like a door and place cargo in the bed, instead of reaching over the gate (be it up or down). Need to drop the gate like all others to load 4x8 sheets of plywood? You also have that option. There are hardly any wheel wells in bed and 4x8 fits between them. 4 wheel disk anti-lock brakes. Much quieter engine and the transmission IS smooth as silk. Dual front air bags, dual side impact airbags and side curtain airbags standard ON ALL MODELS. This truck is so cool even the back window is a power slider, Vehicle stability assist. I can go on, but you get the message. And no, I’m not a Honda salesman. I just love everything about this truck!

    Regarding trade-in, I got a great deal when purchasing the Tacoma (not great enough to have not paid for the paint to be good) so I lost less than 2k.

    I hope this helps!
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,548
    taco....thanks for your insight. I'm in OH. The law states....

    "There has been at least one attempt to repair a nonconformity that results in a condition that is likely to cause death or serious bodily injury if the vehicle is driven, and the nonconformity continues to exist."

    That sounds like a text book example of my situation. That said, you never know how those things will turn out. Plus, it's going to be a big hassle in terms of time and energy. I'm trying to exhaust all othe possibilities before going down the "lemon law" route.

    Since the dealership has indeed driven the truck, they are careful to not admit there's a problem. Matter of fact, the only thing they've done is to take it on a test drive, by themselves, with me, and now, the GM of the dealership supposedly drove it this weekend. I don't know if that qualifies as an attempt to fix it. While the brakes haven't totally failed for them, like they did with me, during the test drives, they did note that the brake pressure is weak and that the pedal does go all the way to the floor. The tech told me that the brake pedal isn't mechanical but is "brake by wire". I've heard of steering by "wire" and throttle by "wire", but never brake by "wire". As such, the tech says there's nothing he can adjust or fix. I'm not too confident he's correct in his assessment on either the "brake by wire" or the that there's nothing that can be done.

    I have no idea whether I'll get to talk to the Regional Rep as the GM said he would talk to him today. The good news is, the regional offices are only about 5-10 miles away from the dealership. So, they're local.

    In either case, I've no faith in this vehicle. I want them to replace it with another Tacoma. While it's clear you love your Ridgeline, I'm looking to the Tacoma to haul stuff. As such, having a ladderbox bolted to a frame is the way I want to go. So, that would be a deal breaker for me since the Ridgeline is a unibody piece. I was very pleased with the quiet/comfort/handling of the Tacoma, although I'm certain the Ridgeline may trump the Tacoma on all counts. I need a work truck, though.

    Again, thanks!
  • lbross23lbross23 Posts: 3
    Thanks for describing your experiences with the Taco. I was very close to pulling the trigger on a DC V6 4x4, but this discussion has changed my mind. For $25K I expect not only a quality vehicle, but also quality customer service. I'm heading to Nissan.
  • I just went through this same sensor problem, I have a 01 Tacoma, The check engine light came on 2 days after my 60K mile maint. My MAF sensor went out due to the airfilter cover had been bent so it gummed up and ruined the sensor. But it still was cutting out so I thought I got bad gas also, then a week later the check engine light came back on, I took it back they forgot that when your MAF sensor goes out it also burns out your fuel sensor and air sensor that comes out the other side of your engine. I guess the MAF sensor tells how much of a mixture of both to feed the engine. They had also told me that those trucks have a lifetime Fuel Filter! After that all was replaced it seems to be running great. Better gas mileage also. good luck.
    KNN filters yes or no?
    Dealers of course say NO!! :confuse:
  • chilid1chilid1 Posts: 2
    Wife drove truck to work then went to come home and check engine light came on truck runs alright drove to advance auto they read the OBD2 code and got an p1135. Now I have spent the last 3 hours looking for and cannot find it???. It's an 02 Taco. Help!!!
  • aktoyaktoy Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me what wire to spice into for installing an after market tachometer in my 1998 Tacoma 4x4 with the 2.7 engine? Thanks
  • yotayota Posts: 2
    I have a 03 tacoma double cab and on the lower portion of the rear doors, and bed the paint has come off and is rusted. the rear flares are also pitted. saw the rep today and she denied the claim to fix saying it is caused by enviro conditions. just trying to find something out ,research, other cases, anything. this problem has been going on since 3500 miles
  • yotayota Posts: 2
    I have a 03 tacoma double cab and the paint is coming off near the rear doors and the lower portion of the bed. Is this the same problem. They won't fix mine they say that is caused by enviro conditions
  • jschelljschell Posts: 1
    Sorry about making this a reply (I found the sight difficult). Im having a starting issue after I have run the truck for a while. Its a 1996 Tacoma 4x4 2.7L, here are the conditions to have an issue: the vehicle must be run to a good operating temp. for 15-20 min then kill the engine and let it sit for another 10-15 min. When I try to start the truck it floods out, I know it is flooding by the fuel smell in my oil, the truck starts again either by me trying again and again or leaving alone and trying again after 5min or so. No one has been able to help, not my mechanic, not toyota, not anyone. I did get a suggestion of an injector leaking down after killing the truck, but they are expensive to just give it a try. If anyone has any possible suggestions let me know. This issue as also led me to thiking about a swap to a toyota diesel engine, any ideas on that aswell let me know.

    thanks
    jared
  • jimmerjimmer Posts: 9
    my 05 dc 4x4 was squeaking and making noises whenever i hit a bump or turned into a driveway. On my truck it's coming from the front bumper, where it actually mounts to the frame. toyota is aware of the problem but doesn't have a fix yet! My dealer mounted some old bumper between the mounts and the frame to remedy the problem for now!! It's better but i'm still waiting for the bulletin from toyota.
  • sgttoddsgttodd Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply-
    I ended up cleaning out the throttle body which had quite a buildup of black crap and just for good measure I changed the fuel filter today. After I cleaned the throttle body out I haven't had a problem what so ever with idleing or hesitation.
    I don't have K&N filter, but am sure that is a decent upgrade for the money.
  • l5504l5504 Posts: 8
    Just an update. The rough idle has not returned sense my last posting. But the hesitation seems to be getting gradually worse. Starts ok, runs ok until you mash on it. Then it hesitates. It does this in Park, Neutral or Drive. The lower the RPMs the more the hesitation. No after market filters or parts. All stock. Good thing I don't own a gun. It would be one dead Yota.
  • zirczirc Posts: 2
    Ok i usually dont post on these things but i read my chiltons and this forum and i am not so heavy on EFI so i thought i'd see if anyone else had the same issues.
    while driving if i get on the gas too hard the motor will hesistate and stumble real bad...but if i gradually step on the throttle there's not an issue ( fyi 5 speed manual trans) it also has difficulty starting ...but once started the issue isnt as severe as when i've driven it for awhile. I already changed the fuel filter ( what a nightmare, i wish i had the hands of the 8 yr old for that!!) the check engine light is on...but i was wondering if anybody knows or has any "its this stupid!!!" fixes ...i have a feeling its something really simple ..

    as a note i am in the navy and it sits for awhile sometimes and it started immediately after i drove it up onto a curb one day parallel parking and came down of the curb kinda hard ....when i returned is when the headache began...it wouldnt start and i had to get home...so i pulled the fuel filter and poked a hole in it as a get my butt home fix and it worked but with the stumbling when my right foot got heavy (theres was no check engine light initially). i put a new one in.....and it was better but has gotten worse over the last 2 or 3 weeks and also i guess the 76 stations around here (western WA) had been sellin crappy gas too and thats where i was goin at the time..
  • drathardrathar Posts: 7
    If the check engine light is on you should be able to get a fault code. You will need some equipment to get that code, and a manual to decipher it. My guess is it is an oxygen sensor.

    Thanks for your service in the US Navy!!!
This discussion has been closed.