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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions



  • purchased truck new mar 01. 9900 miles notices power steering fluid leak and noise with pump. Dealer replaced power steering rack. 72000 miles it leaks again. Dealer now says $800 for a new p/s rack and it is not under warranty.

    Has anyone else had this problem. The truck is less than 3 years old. Very disappointed will probably sell, take loss and get another brand. Any help or suggestions? Clawsonflats
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Yep! I know two people that have had to replace racks in their Tacomas, one twice but with more miles.

    The one in our Avalon is starting to leak, too. I think you will find that some of the Toyota racks are made by Saginaw Gear (GM).

    Good luck,
  • My power door locks, sometimes, do not unlock when I disarm my security system. Re-arming the system and then dis-arming it again seems to correct the problem. I was wondering if anyone else with this factory system is experiencing this same problem.Thanks.
  • There is a TSB for this problem. My door locks do the same thing but I just live with it.
  • Would like to hear if the Tacoma owner who was on the way to the dealer to have the motor noise checked out got the problem resolved (Msg #881) and #852). Had the same problem with my '96 Tacoma
    when it hit 50K miles. My 2002's noise (rapping)started at 22K. I added 1/2 quart of oil to reach the 5.7 qt. level. No relief.
  • if you have a 6 cylinder i rember hearing something about #1 rod bearing bring to big from factory most likley would have been a problem at 2000 miles but you never know
  • I have written a couple of posts in the past about rapping from my 2001 Tacoma when the engine was cold. The dealer determined that it was a wrist pin and we made an appointment for the work to be done, under warranty. I took the truck in and they pulled the engine, tore it down and determined that the problem was the wrist pin in #4 cyl. I ended up with a new piston, rings, connecting rod, and crankshaft bearings (maybe just as a precaution?). The noise is gone and things seem back to normal. The only charge to me was .57 for a new taillight!! I checked everything external very carefully and they seem to have put everything back together properly. Time will tell....
    The #4 cylinder gets the least cooling and problems tend to develop there first. I wonder what caused this.
    Anyway, just to let everyone know Toyota honored its warranty with me, no questions, no hassle.

    Jon Aborn
  • Jon2001

    Thanks for the update: Hope that fix keeps you going past the 200k you were shooting for.
  • coni1coni1 Posts: 3
    I am about to buy an 04 Tacoma 4x2. The dealer is suggesting that I buy the extended warranty up to 100,000k. Should I? Is it worth the value, or is it just a dealer's ploy to make $$$? Please advise ASAP - today is the day for the purchase.
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Posts: 897
    Your warranty will cover it up to 60K miles. You can always buy warranty later. I've had my truck for 2 years and 31K miles (bought new), and in that time, I was at dealers 3 times:
    1. To get my "break-in" free alignment.
    2. Fix a rattle in a door when I closed it, a loose bolt in the window glass mechanism.
    3. Replace front rotor that warped.
    Everything was covered under standard warranty.

    You don't need ext. warranty. If you feel your truck has been giving you problems when you have 50K on it, then sure, go ahead. As of right now, you definitely dont need it.
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    I always end up buying the extended warranty simply because we put so many miles on a vehicle. I took it in for a couple of problems, one they "couldn't duplicate" (and that did disappear before I got around to taking it in again) and one they repaired (replaced radiator). Was it worth it? Not really, but it did give me coverage (and peace of mind) for about 2 1/2 years. My 3 year and 3 month old vehicle has over 140,000 miles on it and has not had any more problems.
  • My new 2004 double cab, 4 cyl. Tacoma, has problems with the gear shift. If I park facing down a slope, it is possible to jar the gear shift between park and reverse and the truck will roll forward. My dealer is telling me this is normal for this model for all years 2001 through 2004. Is anyone else experiencing this problem? I think it is dangerous and should be taken care of by Toyota.
  • I was waxing my white 2003 Tacoma a couple of weeks ago and looked underneath the door to wipe down the bottom and discovered grey primer coat showing through the white color coat under both doors. I took it to the dealer who called the "official Toyota rep" and set up an appointment to meet there at the dealer. On the big day the "suits" showed up and my truck was put up on a hoist to view. They agreed it wasn't all covered by the white color coat. We then went to the lot and looked at other white Tacoma's, and lo and behold, they all had primer showing through the color coat under the doors. I was summarily sent on my way with the information "that's the way we make them now, sorry". Do any other Tacoma owners have this "feature" on a 2003 Tacoma ?
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Posts: 897
    just because the suits agreed, doesn't mean it's actually primer. Those people have business (read: bend customers over) training, what do they know?

    All Tacos come with lower portion of the body textured. It's still painted, but it has textured feel to it. It's not primer, it is the way they do it to avoid paint chipping, or something. Maybe that's what you saw?
  • Sorry, I've been unclear. The bottom of the actual door itself has color coat voids along the stamped ridges. Like a machine sprayed across the bottom instead of spraying straight up from underneath. In the misc trades that I have worked in where painting and lacquering were done, we called them "holidays". (obviously a slang term)They were mostly attributed to apprentices or rookies who didn't want to get on their knees to get far enough underneath a low surface with the gun to cover. I know the undercoat that you're talking about under the rails of the body.
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Posts: 897
    Call Toyota, complain, ask to speak with the divisional rep. Dealers won't do jack for you about this problem, since "They all come this way".
  • Thanks, I did just that. They were VERY careful about how they handled the call and kept trying to set me up as someone issuing a dealer complaint. I told them that I just wanted an official confirmation that Toyota is now selling trucks with color coat starvation in hidden area's as complete, finished, new trucks. I also mentioned that I'm in touch with web-based news groups that would be interested in the answer to that question as well. If what the dealer told me is true, I'm done with their products. They are going to "get back to me" and I'll post the answer when I get it.
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Posts: 897
    check with TTORA guys ( They may know more info on how to fight Toyota and dealers, I know we had some people who have done successful court cases against Toyota for warranty issues.
  • Gidday....this problem is driving me nuts! Could really use some advice.
    I have a 98 Tacoma 2.4L, 2WD 72K miles. What is happening is at light accelerator settings or when releasing the accelerator the engine stalls for just an instant and then catches itself. It does not do this consistently and happens more often when driving in the rain. It's like a miss-fire or loss of fuel to a few cylinders.

    I have:
    Replaced the plugs
    Replaced the plugs leads and wires
    Replaced the fuel filter
    Had a fuel injector cleaning done

    My mechanic says I need the air induction system cleaned but I'm skeptical...I think it's a bad injector, distributor or leak in the air induction system.

    Anybody out there had this problem? If so, please respond as this problem is getting very expensive and aggrivating.

    Thanks, svgair01
  • My dad had same engine, same problem, only the truck was an '88. Changing the distributor cap and the rotator inside solved the problem. It seems that when it gets wet moisture gets in the distributor and messes up the spark.
This discussion has been closed.