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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • wparker1wparker1 Posts: 13
    My new Leer cap arrived today and was installed. Its gorgeous. However the installer pointed out to me two gaps in the top sides of the tailgates that appear to be about 1 inch wide. He discovered it when he was washing down the back of the truck after the cap installation. Water went right into the bed of the truck on both sides. I under stand from aonother forum that Toyota says this is normal. Not in my book!! Has anyone else ran into this problem. I just spent big bucks to install a cap over the bed to keep it dry. Now the gaps around the tailgate are letting water come in. I'm taking it inot the Toyota dealer tomorrow to have them look at it! :cry: :cry:
  • I have a Jason Infinity cap on order right now. I looked into getting a Swiss cap and was told by the company that they had problems with them leaking. Both the Swiss and the Leer are unskirted caps, that is they don't extend down to cover the bed liner rails. The Jason cap does. Their factory rep told me that they have a 2005 Taco for a company truck and their cap doesn't leak at all. I'll report back when I get it.
  • My Toyota dealer has offered to give me another truck to replace mine because the parts aren't quickly available to fix it! They have to replace the entire power steering system. They have an identical 2005 Taco D-cab in silver with the same equipment as my truck. You can believe I will take it for a long test drive.
    Performance Toyota in Fairfield, Ohio has to be the best new car dealer I have ever heard of!
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    First places I would look would be intake and exhaust.
    You mentioned you checked the converter. In addition to making sure the converter allows full flow, check for damaged/crushed pipes, damage to muffler, etc. (Converters have been known to loose ceramic substrate which gets blown back to obstruct the muffler.)

    Next, check air intake. No foreign matter blocking the air intake (all the way to the outside opening /entrance of the intake duct to the air filter, and on to the engine intake). Air filter?

    Next, fuel system. When was the fuel filter last changed? If you can't flow full rating of fuel, you can't get full hp. Check for damaged/crimped lines from fuel tank all the way to the injectors.

    Then fuel pump. Now things get pricey.

    While there could be ignition issues, the fact that you're not reporting rough running would make me look at exhaust and intake first, restricted fuel delivery second.

    You could also have a number of sensor errors, but you don't report a MIL lamp lit, so I'm starting w/o that assumption. But if you have a lighted MIL, you need to plug in an OBD II reader and get the code(s). (Have you checked to see that the MIL lamp is working? It should light when you first turn the key to on, but before the engine starts.)
  • Hello all, I'm having a problem and I'm curious if anyone has had the same b/f I get taken by a mechanic. It's an intermittent problem. My vent, tach, speedometer, odometer, temp and gas gauge don't work. The problem began on Monday when all of the above cut out, then came back for a few minutes, its been 5 days w/ everything on and it cut off yesterday only to come on for a few minutes today along w/ the check engine light which is new. Any suggestions? I've checked the fuses and the connection to the battery and all is fine.

    thanks.!
  • Greetings everyone, first time poster Ill try to be clear.

    I own a 1996 2.4 litre (4 cylinder) Toyota Tacoma. Manual 5 speed transmission. 2 wheel (rear) drive.

    We recently started to take a trip and stopped at a rest stop. I decided to check the fluids and when I pulled the dipstick for the oil I nearly passed out. Bone dry ! not one quart ! The oil light had NOT come on. The oil light does light as it should before starting engine.

    I put in a quart of oil I had left from my last oil change (about a week ago) and got off at the next exit and added 3 more. We drove about another half hour and checked oil again. Nearly empty again ! Speaking of the oil change I was concearned when only about 1 quart of oil came from the engine & oil filter.

    To make a long story short we went through about 8 quarts of oil in about 300 miles.

    There are no signs of oil leakage on the exterior of the engine or on the frame or on the oil filter or the drain plug. There are no oil spots under the parked vehicle. I am guessing the oil is comming out while at speed but there should be some evidence somewhere of 2 gallons of leaked oil !! :confuse:

    It does not appear to be burning the oil a plug check showed dry and grey. At that rate of loss oil should be dripping out the tail pipe and the plugs fouled to the point of no spark.

    Any clues I am totally stumped not to mention a ruined vacation.

    UM
  • Only thing I can think of is to try to take out and re-seat the fuse. It may be an intermittant connection. Check for signs of corrosion or oxidation clean if necessary and replace.
  • The fuse did look like it had some corrosion on the two metal pieces. Could that be the cause of this?
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    It's possible it's corrosion, but it would likely have to be pretty bad for them to all go completely dead. None the less, cleaning that up is cheap and relatively easy.

    However, the most common cause of what you describe is a bad ground.
    The dash and instruments are likely to have a number of grounds to chasis.

    Do you have instrument panel lights when you turn on the parking or head lamps?
    If so, when you flip on the lights, do you see any flicker or movement in the gages?
    Bad grounds are the number one cause of DC maladies, especially those that come and go. Unfortunately, under the dash they can be very difficult, and lead to dramatic expansion of your vulgar vocabulary...

    You can try establishing a separate ground btwn the metal of the dash and the chasis, but more often than not the ground has to be established to a conductor in a harness or to the circuit board ground plane by a "instrument cluster ground".

    Good luck
  • artie43artie43 Posts: 2
    My Son just ordered an 05 Tacoma. The dealer salesman told him that at 5K he would have to have the dealer service dept turn off the reminder lite. Is this for real? What a bunch of crap. Sounds like Toyota is getting greedier. Any feedback on this?
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    The service reminder light will come on to remind him to have oil and filter change.
    The instructions for turning off the light (actually resetting) are in the owner's manual.

    As for greed- it's not Toyota, since it's in the manual. It's the dealer if they were going to charge him to do that instead of just telling him to look in the manual. I've got one better. My wife actually had the oil changed at the Honda dealer. However, she did not accept their 30+ point service pkg. (Half of which were bogus items like "lubricate propeller shaft u-joints" -first, it's front wheel drive so it has no propeller shaft or u-joints, 2nd, it's been about 25 yrs or so since passenger vehicles had u-joints capable of accepting lube fittings.) She told them, truthfully, that I would perform the balance of the mfr's recommended maint. (Which at that time/mileage was to rotate the tires, check fluids.) When she picked up the vehicle and the light was still illuminated, she asked them if they'd forgotten. The svc writer told her that since she didn't accept the complete svc pkg, it would cost $35 for them to reset the svc indicator light. Wisely she waited to ask me about it.
    OTOH, this guy is an atypical jerk. Several others there are fine to deal with. I finally had to call the svc director and tell him if they wanted my biz, they needed to ensure that I never had to spk with this guy again.
  • v1s1torv1s1tor Posts: 1
    You may want to check inside of the radiator. If you have blown a head gasket, it is possible that the oil is being pushed into your cooling system. At times, you could instead notice water in your oil. Just a suggestion.
  • artie43artie43 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. I will have him look in the service manual. I thought it should be there. As I recall BMW started this nonsense many years ago. I have never considered owning a BMW because of this fact and the RWD. Guess I will have to live my life without the joy of a BMW. :) ">
  • keks1keks1 Posts: 7
    Aloha!
    I'm so glad I found this site. I also have a new 05' Tacoma, dbl cab 6 speed trd.
    I noticed this morning that my maintenance light came on. I'm @ 5k right now. What do I have to do? I didn't get a chance to look at the manual. If it says I should change the oil, I can do that. Is there a certain oil filter or oil that I should use? I didn't want to take it in to Toyota, only because I can do it myself and I don't really them doing things I can't see. What do you suggest? Should I just take my truck to them? ;)
  • nevinnevin Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Toyota Tacoma with 150L miles on it. 4L engine, 4wd. This is a used vehicle newly purchased. We are just now noticing a single, distinct knock (or a thunk or a pulse?) immediately after shifting from 1st into 2nd; then also from 4th into 5th and 5th back into 4th. Seems to coincide with the release of the clutch pedal just as the truck is transitioning into the new gear. Truck seems to be driving fine and the gears stay in place. What is this? Thanks...
  • Tacoma PreRunner,automatic trans. This problem began as an intermittent starting problem. Sometimes when the key was turned it started, other times there was just one click. The last time it cranked I had to repeated turn the key 10 or more times before it took. So I figure battery, cables, selenoid, or starter. Battery checked out fine. Brushed, cleaned and reconnected cables and contacts. Still no luck. Then (foolishly) I went for the starter. Put in a new starter. Turned the key one time, heard one click, and now the entire electrical system is dead. No headlights, no dome light. I can't even get the transmission out of Park. What happened? What do I do now? HELP!
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    " I didn't get a chance to look at the manual "

    In the time it took to type in your post, you could have found the answers to all your questions in the owner's manual. I'll never understand why so many people don't look in their owner's manual before asking questions.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    You'll find it in the operator's manual that should be in the glove box.
    (It's also in the svc manual, but no need to go that far.)

    Actually, my 1994 Suzuki Sidekick had a similar system, though it was OBD I.
    The newer systems (as in the taco) are much simpler. On the 94 Sidekick, you had to go under the dash and flip a switch. That would leave the light off for the next interval, after which you'd have to flip the switch back the other way.

    W/ the newer ones, the combination of holding the button down while turning the key on is much simpler and really no difficulty.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    If you've ever changed oil in an automobile or pickup, you certainly don't need to bring the 05 Taco in to the dealer. Oil Grade info is in the operator's manual in the glove box, but also on the filler cap under the hood. Follow the mfr's recommendations. The oil filter is right out in front of you when you lift the hood, just to the right of center. There's a catch basin around the base of the filter to catch the leaks. If you feel under it, you'll find a tube,capped with rubber. Slide the rubber cap off, and either connect a small hose to the tube, dropping the other end into your waste oil receptacle on the floor below the engine, or, as I did, use a plastic water bottle wedged in btwn the coolant hose and shroud to catch the oil. Remove the filter and the drainback goes in the bottle for disposal.

    As for filters, select a good quality aftermarket or the OEM Toyota filter.
    I personally like Purolator, but there are plenty of other good quality filters.
    Drain the old oil, put in the plug. Then add the filter.
    Many will disagree, but I suggest prefilling the filter w/ fresh oil before installing. Fill thru the center hole, then with the filter slightly tilted, rotate it to allow the oil to go into the canister, wetting the filter media. You've got it right when there's just a little oil in the center hole. Spin it on till the gasket touches, then about 3/4 turn.

    Use the dipstick to tell when it's full, not just counting quarts. Fill the crankcase and when full, replace the cap. Start the engine observing the oil press light which should go out in a couple of seconds (particularly if you prefilled the filter). Shut down the engine. While you're gathering up tools and waste to dispose of, let the engine sit to drain back. Recheck the oil level and add as necessary. It 's important to be in the full zone, but do NOT overfill. Better to be 1/4 qt low than overfull, though the closer to full, the cooler the oil. (A 1/4 qt will have no measurable effect.)

    With the filter right out front like it is, I decided to write mileage and date on the filter (Purolator is white, so black indelible marker works great).

    Just make sure that you use a brand name motor oil, of the grade and viscosity recommended. (I haven't looked recently, but I think its 5W30, API SL.)

    Some will recommend synthetics, and while they are better in theory, any good name brand oil of the proper grade and viscosity, maintained properly, will give you great service. (More to be lost by accumulating moisture, acids and contaminants by not servicing it at the proper intervals than the difference between regular motor oil and spending big bucks on fancy synthetics or blends.)
  • bhawkbhawk Posts: 1
    My 05 Tacoma (4x4 ext.cab) makes a pop/slaping sound (similar to the sound of running over a flattened popcan) when I go over even the smallest bump or seam in the road. I can only hear it when the window is down and at residential speeds. Dealer can't seem to locate where or why the noise is coming from but acknowledged the problem. Any ideas or solutions would be appreciated.

    In regards to some other posts here, I too have had the whistling sound from my windshield at 120km/hr on a very warm day. I also feel that the brakes on this truck are rather spongy.
  • Recently my 99 Tacoma has been having troubble starting. It sounds to me to be a starter problem but i thought i would ask and see what everyone else thought. (before i spent $ 237 on a new starter) When i go to start it I hear a click. Some times it will catch and start other times it wont start for a while. Also i am not sure what size engine it has could anyone point out where to find that info? THANKS !!
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    I'm assuming that you checked battery voltage.
    Should not be below 12VDC.
    Generator voltage when running should be between 13.5 and 15 V.

    Now, check all connections, particularly grounds.

    Check all connections to the starter, generator, and battery.
    Check engine to chasis ground.
    Check starter to chasis ground if it exists.

    Grounds are the most common and least expensive prblms to fix.
  • I have a 1996 toyota tacoma with a 2.7 standard. I have just been told by a certified toyota mechanic that my igniter is bad. My truck will run normal for days or weeks and then out of nowhere it will start to die while you are driving it or when you are at a stop sign. (it has no preference when it dies either at rpm or in or out of gear). It has now progressively gotten worse. it used to always start right back up but now you must crank on it for a while. My mechanic told me that the person who owned it before me (jerry rigged) a ground wire from the negative battery post to the drivers side fender (which you can plainly see). This in turn he says fried my igniter. I found one at a junk yard but haven't got it in the mail yet. when I do I will give you an update to see if it worked. I got it for 50 bucks but a new one will set you back 410 dollars good luck!
  • I forgot to mention that my check engine light is on . I have had it checked and first it come up to be the first oxygen sensor but was told by my mechanic that it wouldn't make it die. si i didn't replace it. Then i had it cleared and it came back on now it said I had the oxygen sensor bad, cataladic converter bad, and crank senser bad. But the guy I bought it off of said he replaced it twice and it kept coming back on so he told me not to replace it again. Any help would be greatly recieved.
  • keks1keks1 Posts: 7
    Thanks for all the information. The reason why I took my truck in is because it randomly kept popping out or fourth gear. My maintenance light never came on when that kept happening, but it did when my odometer read 5,000 m exaclty. As for the transmission thing, i'm scheduled to bring my truck back to the service dept. next week. They need to open up the trans. Has this type of problem happened to anyone you knew? Mahalo for your advice and time.
  • keks1keks1 Posts: 7
    How is this comment suppose to help? Maybe the owners manual might not always have the answers to problems that other people have encountered. Have you always looked to the manual for your answers and never asked any questions?
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    " How is this comment suppose to help? "

    Go back and read the original author's post. They never even opened the owner's manual AT ALL. I understand having questions after reading the manual, but look their first......sheesh.....
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    If you don't get proper ignition, a number of other errors could come up.
    I'd make the first change, clear the codes, then see what comes up.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    The maintenance light will not be triggered by a malfunction. It is turned on by a counter in the ECM. It is only a reminder that scheduled maint is due. (I have heard that on some pricey vehicles, there are some special features which monitor oil cleanliness and will trigger the maint light based on that, but that is not the case here, nor in the majority of systems.)

    OTOH, the check engine light or MIL (malfunction indicator light) will come on if the computer determines that there is an error, and stores that code. Some intermittent errors are stored in a separate memory and if they do not recurr within so many start/stop cycles, they are cleared without generating a MIL indication. (A flashing MIL is bad news and you should make every effort to shut down immediately.) In any event, if a malfunction is detected by the system, it will possibly light the MIL, but not the maint light.

    Once the appropriate maint has been performed, simply turn the lamp off using the procedure in the manual.
  • I would probably check out e-bay for some good deals..Just make sure you know what your looking for and that you don't purchase the wrong thing.
This discussion has been closed.