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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    If all that went bad was the fron wheel bearings (i.e. no damage to hubs or spindles) it shouldn't have cost an arm much less a leg. The brg sets purchased directly from a parts house would likely be less than $50 total. (maybe as little as $20)

    From your post typos, it's difficult to tell, but if what you're saying is you had 117,000 (117 thousand) miles, then it is likely not a vehicle design issue. Bearings likely were repacked (or neglected) in one or more front brake jobs (where the brgs should be inspected, lubed, etc)

    Most common failure is due to bad seals, which should have been replaced w/ the brake job. Bad seals allow grease out and water and contaminants in.

    I'd look into who/when the brake work was done.
  • I had a Cressida before and it had the same problem as you have. The fix was to replace the fuel pump. Hope that help.
  • bdog2bdog2 Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Tacoma 2wd 4cylinder auto trans with 240K miles. I bought it a couple years ago with about 180K miles so I don't know the history of repairs. For the past few months it has had a difficult time shifting into overdrive. It seems to be ok when the engin is cool but after a while of driving, for example, if I slow down on the freeway and it down shifts and then I speed back up, it gets stuck and won't go back into overdrive. Sometimes if I pull over and start accelerating again, it will kick into overdrive. It seems to be shifting fine otherwise. Does anybody know what could be wrong? Someone told me to change the ATF. What do you think?
  • MY DASH RATTLES ON MY 2000 TACOMA ON THE PASSENGER CORNER HOW DO I STOP IT
  • Some nut case (lightly) spray painted (gray on my black 2003 tacoma). anyone have an recommendations on how to remove without ruining the finish? or how to find someone to do the work? thanks!
  • joe_jjoe_j Posts: 1
    Is there any way to have my 2006 Tacoma make a beep or a noise when I lock or unlock using the keyless entry feature?
  • At 65,000 or so it is time to replace the frnt brake pads on my 2003 tacoma 2wd p/u. This is the first vehicle that I've owned with ABS, and I was wanting to know if the process is any differnt. I've done this many times on older cars and trucks....and just pressed the caliper piston back into the caliper, forcing the brake fluid back up the system to the master cylinder. I don't want to destroy any high dollar ABS parts. so........ What can you tell me?
  • Any competent detailer should be able to buff it off. If you hurry, a petroleum based wax will probably dissolve the paint. The longer you wait, the harder it'll be to get off!
  • Billbeau, What exactly do you mean by axlewrap? Can you explain in laymen's terms what it is and why it causes the bumping?

    I have noticed that if I put the automatic transmission into neutral before I stop at a light, I get no bump. Does that imply it's a transmission problem, or could this axlewrap still be the issue?

    Any help is appreciated. Morgan 5
  • I have a 2006 Tacoma 4 cyl. 5 speed 2 WD that idles at 2500 as soon as I turn the key on and stays there for about 20 seconds, also between 4th & 5th gear with the clutch depressed the rpm goes to 3000 then drops back to 1500 after I shift. The dealership is telling me this is normal. I find that hard to believe. Any ideas?
  • "I have a 2006 Tacoma 4 cyl. 5 speed 2 WD that idles at 2500 as soon as I turn the key on and stays there for about 20 seconds, "

    Many new vehicles of many brands do this. My '05 V6 Toyota, and my neighbor's '05 Hemi Ram have similar startup behavior. The Ram sounds like an F16 when he starts it.

    It's something to do with emissions. AFAIK, The goal is to warm up the engine faster.

    The delay between shifts is a little strange. I'd give it a few miles into break-in and see if it self corrects.
  • I have a 2005 double cab with an expensive ARE cap on it. It leaks around the tail gate where there is a gap you can put your fingers through around the tail gate locks. Toyota says thats normal?? I am fixing it myself using some weather stripping around inside of the tailgate. Who builds a truck with such huge gaps visible from inside the bed that lets water into the bed of the truck?? Its almost like they left it so water can run out in addition to running in! :mad: :confuse: :surprise:
  • I LOVE my 05 Tacoma 4x4 TRD Off Road Pkg. But lately it is making a clicking noise when it is running. My dealer says maybe it is the fuel line? Not sure how that would be true. It doesn't do it all the time, and I know it's not serious, just annoying. Anyone with the same?
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    I have worked on brakes for the last 20 years. I can't speak for the Tacoma specifically, having never done one, but the ABS is normally attached to the hub assembly. You shouldn't even touch anything even if you remove the rotor to have it turned (not recommended unless you had pulse problems). I would be gentle pushing the piston in though. I never blown a master pushing in a piston, but it could be expensive if you did. But as I said, I never blew one, so if you use reasonable restraint, you will have no problem. One more thing: Make sure that if you remove hardware (clips, backing plates, etc..) you reinstall them or install new ones. They are there for a reason.
  • On a sunny day with the sun to your rear you can look and see the gaps. I was rather taken aback with this as I have owned two other Toyotas and never saw daylight around the tailgate. And I wondered about you guys who put tops on. But I have yet to read anything about this leaking. Does the weather stripping work when you close the gate?

    B
  • I have the dubious distinction of having the only 05 Tacoma in entire world with an intrusion alarm that goes off erratically at any time of day when it is set. This is a fact according to Toyota. I have had this problem since March 05 when I picked up my truck. The dealer has taken extraordinary measures to fix it: replaced the computer; replaced each of the four door lock mechanism; tested it; returned to me on three different occasions as this work progressed through those stages and it still goes off.

    And the funniest part? I was at the starting line of a 10K race on a Saturday morning in August and the truck--parked 100 feet from the starting line--went off! The announcer who was trying to announce the race on the PA stated that someone's truck was "whining for daddy." I didn't move. I had a race to run and I wasn't about to tend to this problem then. The REAL kicker is that the salesman who sold me the truck was in that race too. Everyone saw my TACO with lights flashing and horn blaring. He commented to a friend of mine: "We are going to have to fix that damned thing!"

    So now I had a witness. Anyway, this is December and Toyota has finally decided to cut the mustard and install a whole new alarm system and totally disable the one in there now. I should have that work done this week. The service manager has been in a full-court press on Toyota for 6 months as they kept ignoring him by telling him that they have never had this problem before. He persisted by telling them that they weren't helping him any by their inaction and cheap comments. I have to say that I am quite happy with my dealer as they have struggled with the company to do something about this.

    B
  • pecaspecas Posts: 9
    My used tacoma pre-runner 2.7 4cyl. just died in stop and go traffic. It would turn over great (new battery) but would not start. after 10 minutes I finally got it started and took it to the nearest shop. They checked it out for two days and could find no problem at all. The ECM printed no codes and I've been driving with no problems at all for two days. This is driving me nuts. Anyone had this type of problem?
  • pecaspecas Posts: 9
    I had the same problem on my 2000 pre-runner. I pried the padded dash up a little where it meets the windshield and slipped a small piece of foam rubber underneath and let it back down.This fixed that problem. I still have some noise on the passenger side when I hit a bump, that I have not located. The Engine control module is located behind the glove box and may not be sucured as it should. I bought my truck used and its had a fairly hard life.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    I would say that Toyota's alarm system is not one of their best efforts. Mine has only went off once that I know of when no one was around in the 3 months I have had it. My 02 Tundra alarm would arm and disarm without having a clicker within a half mile. But, everything has a few flaws. Still love my Toyotas.
  • dilemma, i'm here in a small Mexican Town and do not have access to a diagnostic computer or Toyota Dealership.
    My 2002 Tacoma PreRunner D Cab 69950 (yes) Miles has started acting bad. The check engine light is on (though sometimes only flashing) and the truck sounds like it wants to explode at 50mph (coughing and poor handling, shaking). My suspicion is Fuel Pump, but I'm no genius, so I'm seeking any reccomendations that I can relay (in very bad Spanish) to a mechanic here, if anyone can help, Please!!!
  • 2k1trd2k1trd Posts: 301
    Sounds to me like you have a missfire wich will make the check engine light flash.I would start with a tune up and hope that takes care of it.As far as it being the fuel pump....very unlikely as the Toyota pumps are bullit proof.Make sure you use the Toyota factory spark plugs.
  • I hope someone can give me a bit of advice on this topic. I'm going nuts trying to figure this out. Here's a quick synopsis.

    It's a 98 tacoma 4x4, 3.4v6, TRD. Brakes have always been a bit week even when I bought it stock 3 years ago, so there has always been a problem, now that I have 35" tires obviously that emphasized the problem.

    Rear brakes didn't seem to do anything so tried adjusting proportioning valve armiture. No luck, changed proportioning valve since it look pretty beat up from something. Some difference, not much.

    Thought it might be the booster, so had a shop replace that. No change in braking power. Shop said because of my supercharger I had a decrease vacuum. Ok, understandable even though I was still pulling 15 (inches??), so to correct that I installed a vacuum canister. No shortage of vacuum now.

    Front rotors were warped, so I installed some slotted/drilled baer rotors and high dollar pads. No difference yet. Just changed the master cylinder, still no difference. What the heck am I missing here!

    And for those of you that think it is the larger tires, I disagree. My braking power is so bad that even with stock tires I roll right through stop signs in normal braking.

    The calipers look fine, no leakage or rust. Before I waste money to replace them with no difference, I was thinking to go to a Big Brake system, but don't want to spend any more money with out some expert advice. Please HELP! Thanks.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    I am a mechanic by trade, so perhaps I can give you a little insight. I would really like to see the truck before I make a judgement, but that is likely impossible. I had a 96 with no brake problems at all, so I know that it is not a normal thing for the Tacomas. It sounds to me like you have a lack of power to the entire brake system. It is either a bad power booster, lack of vacume or a vacume leak. Could also be that the vacume hose is connected to the wrong place. Some ports have vacume when the engine is idling, while others have vacume at cruise. You can have great vacume at the port, but if there is none at idle, it will do you no good to have a 50 gallon vacume resevoir. You always brake with the throttle closed, so that would explain if you have the wrong port. If you can get your hands on a portable vacume pump, run a hose into the cab and pump up the vacume while trying to stop. If that don't work, then it is likely the booster that is bad. It really soumds like you lost the power part of your power brakes. If you are not locking up the rear brakes, there is a definate lack of power. The front brakes do most of the work, so a problem with the rears would be minimally noticed and a problem with the front would make the rears work harder and lock up. If you are noticing a fluid loss, then it could be other things.
  • I completely agree with you, it just doesn't seem right that's why I'm so frustrated. The vacume port I'm hooked up to is the one which the Supercharger instructions showed, plus it is definitely pulling plenty vacume at idle. I've been fooling with the rear brakes with the rear tires in the air. Found that the proportioning valve wasn't adjusted properly anymore (bent arm from something). Rear brakes actually stop quickly now with the rear tires in the air.

    I haven't test drove it yet, but it still doesn't feel like there is enough power to the master cylinder. It only takes a very little pressure to the gas pedal to get the rear tires spinning when the brakes are pressed fully.

    I couldn't lock up the front tires at all, and definitely no fluid loss. I'll try doing the remote vacume test after this test drive. Thanks for your advice. If you have any more, I'm all ears.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    I would check for kinked or pinched brake line tubing or hoses. Warped rotors may indicate calipers not fully releasing quickly -possibly due to pinched line restricting flow of fluid back to master. Would also slow brake response. May be a long shot, but replacing tubing or a hose is cheaper than most other components.

    I'm especially curious about piping damage because of your mention of external physical damage to the proportioning valve.

    Good luck
  • I looking at a 1995 Toyota Pickup DX that's for sale from an individual. The guy said the only thing wrong is that the previous owner disconnected the parking break handle (because he didn't know how to use it?). So the handle is in the cab laying behind the seat and he said all that needs to be done is to put the handle back in and reconnect the cable to it. Is this an easy fix? I'm fairly handy with my cars, can I do this fix myself?

    Thanks.
  • I've noticed a vibration/shuddering on my '06 Double Cab around 5-10 mph when decelerating somewhat quickly. It feels like it is in the drive train somewhere. Of course, the dealer didn't feel it. Not knowing what it is, I'm a little concerned about potential damage somewhere down the road. I've also noticed a little hard shifting in slow and stop and go traffic conditions. My last vehicle ('00 Dakota) was smooooooth. So, I'm a little concerned. Other that, I love my new truck.
  • i am very disappointed in my 2005 Tacoma Access Cab with the TRD Package. i bought this truck expecting to be able to go off-road with little to no problems and the skid plate on the underside made me pretty happy b/c there are a lot of things on trails that can really mess ya up. i took it off road on a TRAIL (nothing harsh) ONE time and that one time something came up and punctured the radiator. the check engine light came on and i took it to a toyota place the next day not know it was the radiator and by that time everything was gone. i am having to replace the small block and heads on it...labor and all it almost $10K,insurance wont help and toyota said they cant do anything either. i am not sure exactly what the purpose of skid plate is if it isnt protecting the things that need protecting the most. this is my first toyota and probably my last. :(
  • Sounds like you and I may have the sampe problem. My 98 Taco has been intermittently failing to start. I can hear a click when I try to turn it over, but other than that there is no sound at all. After one, two, or three attempts, usually a minute or so between attempts, it will turn over and runs fine. I was told to check the 80A fuse under the hood, which appears to be fine. As of this morning however, it will not turn over at all, no matter how many attempts I have made. Anyone have any other suggestions as to what it might be? Thinking at this point it must be the starter has gone out.
  • pecaspecas Posts: 9
    make sure your battery is charged fully. Are your headlights bright? Then check the electrical connections at the starter for tightness. A loose wire or poor ground connection can cause this. If this doesn't fix it, replacing the starter solenoid would probably be in line. Note that on manual transmission models the clutch must be depressed for the starter to work and on Automatic models the gear selector must be in neutral or park. (neutral safety switch)
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