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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • Anyone know where sensors are located? Truck is 2001 Tacoma Prerunner with double cab and 6 cylinder
  • I have a 05 Tacoma 4 door I get a high pitch nosie that comes out of my vents on the dash , I only get it when I'm driving in a head wind?
  • There is usually a tube that goes from the valve covers up to the air intake tube. Oil mist from the valve lifters can be sucked up into the intake. I'm not sure if this is to lubricate the throttle body or so that the intake air warms up quicker on cold days.
  • 2k1trd2k1trd Posts: 301
    There is actually two in the system.The first one (air/fuel sensor)is located before the front cat and the rear 02 sensor is located after the rear cat.
  • I have a '06 also and don't like the clicking... esp. loud when it's started in the morning when the temperature gets down to freezing. It does go away after the engine has heated up, but still does it a little under load. Have you found out anything from the dealer? I took it back the 2nd day and they said another truck they test drove on the lot did it also and that it was probably an exhaust sound... I don't buy that esp. with the way it acts when cold. Thanks, John
  • So oil in the air filter compartment is normal or is it abnormal? I was told it is caused by something referred to as Blowby and is not a good sign. Thanks for the reply
  • I get some white smoke when truck has been sitting for any length of time. Smells like carbon and fuel. Quits after a second and runs fine.Doesnt do it when restarting after engine is warm. Any ideas? truck is a 2001 tacoma with a 6cyl. Gas mileage is poor by my standards (16 mpg) No loss of fluids has been detected
  • My rig is at 97K and I'm pushing the limit on replacing the timing belt. Can anyone tell me if the 3.4 V6 is a zero interference engine that will self destruct if the belt breaks? Thanks!
  • I have a 05 4door and at highway speed in a head wind I get a high pitch sound coming out of the dash vents?
  • I have a 05 4door and at highway speed in a head wind I get a high pitch sound coming out of the dash vents?
    Does anybody else have this problem and what can I do about it?
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    Does it matter if it is an interference engine? I had a buddy with a Ford Escort. Ford reccommended that the belt be replaced at 60K and I replaced many that broke between 55 and 60K. I told him that at 59K he was on borrowed time and that I would replace it for the $20 it cost for parts. He chose to press his luck until he was out of town on turkey day and it broke. He had to pay holiday towing costs to the tune of $300 plus pay a nechanic to fix it the next day for over $200. And he had to get a rental car until his was fixed. You can't catch everything before it breaks, but there are some things that just beg to be replaced. If you skip an oil change here and there, you will probably never feel the pain. If your belt breaks on the road, you will. You will HAVE to get it replaced right now, and you will pay towing as well as inconvenience. Just do it.
  • Can't say more then that, Just do it!!! ;)
  • My 1998 tacoma with a V6 has a problem with stalling and also feels like it has no fuel at times. Today I was on the freeway and all of the sudden while I was accelerating (in 4th gear) it instantly had no power and started decelerating with the gas to the floor in 4th. I shifted to 3rd and kept the pedal floored and it would not go over 45 mph and if I slowed down by letting off the gas, it would not accelerate past the speed that it was at. I got off the freeway, put in the clutch and it stalled. It would not start back up (unless I had the pedal to the floor, which would allow it to barely run at around 300 rpms). It felt like it wasn't getting fuel and there was about half a tank of gas in the car. I am thinking that this may be caused by my fuel pump going out or something. After getting the truck towed home, it fired right up and runs like normal. This is the first time this has happened but I have had problems with the truck stalling when I come to a stop and put in the clutch after accelerating hard through first and second gears. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks, Joe
  • Hows it going, Hey man i had the same problem with my acess cab. All u got to do is tell the dealer have a tech drive with you to show them. Is it going 75mphs and over thats where i use to get the high pitch sound. Email me if u would like further info macbethtrd@yahoo.com what happend was the dealer ended up replacing my windshield and it stoped the problem.
  • Yes I have the same problem, I'm tring to find what to do,I you find out what to do to fix it e-mail me @ rancecannon@sbcglobal.net Thanks
  • I own Tacoma with 4 cyl & 5 speed. The other day as I was driving it started to back fire and lost power, I put it in 3rd gear and had gas pedal all the way to the floor and it would not go faster then 60mph and I was on a straight section of road.
  • alkanxalkanx Posts: 69
    Hi, I have not been able to find a good oil filter wrench for 06 Tacoma, any help?

    AL.
    2006 Tacoma V6 Auto.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    First decide what filter you want to use.

    If you pick a common, high grade aftermarket, you can find plenty of wrenches on the shelf.
    I personally use Purolator and have one of those cast aluminum jobs that fits all the little ribs on the cap end of the filter case really snug. No crimping, rupture, etc.

    That OEM filter, OTOH, is a bear, and it didn't really fit anything but my "last resort wrench" which is one of those jobs that fits a ratchet, has two sets of jaws that tighten as you torque it up. Put some nice dents in the orig. filter before it finally let go, but didn't rupture. (It's worthwhile having one of these "last resort wrenches". I never liked the idea of driving a large screwdriver thru the can to try to twist it off. If the can tears, you're rotatably fastened. However, if my last resort wrench punctures the can and it remains stuck, I can always duct tape the holes and drive it a couple of miles to the dealer, with my tail btwn my legs.)
  • I have an '06 Tacoma 4x4 w/ 4 liter v6, 4x4, off road package, and the EBD braking system. The brake pedal is not just "soft", it is terrible. There is 2 1/2 - 3 inches of travel before the brakes start to engage, then another 2 inches of pedal travel before the truck comes a stop. It feel like there is air in the lines, or like Toyota fit a really big marshmallow instead of a brake pedal. Often the brake pedal goes very nearly to the floor before the truck stops. I've had mine to the Dealership twice since buying the truck, and they keep telling me the brakes are within "factory specifications". These Brakes are totally unacceptable to me, & apparently it is illegal to have REAL BRAKES fitted, because these are wired through the computer. So will have to lose $$$ sell this, and find something that doesn't give me this "feelin" when I try to stop this truck. Too bad as it is the only fault I can find with the truck.
  • mtnamtna Posts: 1
    I have a 05 Tacoma 6cyl and it has been in for 8 days now for the clicking sound. It has an engine whine and clicking until it warms up. The dealer is replacing timing chain etc to try to fix it. They say is should not be doing that.
  • 53jinx53jinx Posts: 6
    I have a 05 Tacoma that I love. One of my favorite features are the D-Rings that are installed in the back of the bed. I have been looking for information about installing two more tie downs in the front of the bed but haven't had much luck finding any info.

    I talked to the dealer and they recommended putting them on the side wall near the front. The only problem is they need to be reinforced due to the fact they are not attached to the frame or anything else.

    I talked with a 4x4 outfitter and they recommended removing the washer under the bolts that attach the bed to the frame and adding a steel tab that I could attach the hooks to.

    I just wanted to see if any one has had any experience with this sort of project.
  • I am a little confused to the timing belt/chain issue: I have a 2000 Taco Prerunner 4cyl 2.7L and I cannot find anywhere for the life of me when to change the belt/chain. The owners manual says to change tacos at 90K (Except Prerunner) but there is no separate listing for the Prerunner anywhere??? Does anyone know the answer to this?
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    If you buy the front D Ring kit (2 D Rings w mtg hardware) the instructions describe exactly how to mount and where. The kit comes with backing plates. It is VERY easy to install, although helpful if you have a helper to hold the backing plate/nut in place while you turn the screw from inside the bed. (Instead of the duct tape called for in the instructions.) However, i had NO trouble installing.

    If you order online from one of the Toy online parts distributors, the price is reasonable and the instructions come with the parts, though you can dnload a pdf of the instructions beforehand from a lot of the online dealers.
  • ayranayran Posts: 1
    I just bought this truck a week ago and love it. It was exactly what I was looking for and I got a good deal on it. When I was shopping for a new truck it seemed that tacoma's where one of the best more $$ but all around good trucks but after reading some of the things on here I'm begging to wonder if I made the right decision. Someone please tell me something positive about these trucks.

    The only problem I'm having is that when I come to a stop and it begins to idle a rattling noise starts up. This seems to happen more when the engine is still cold but stops if I put it into park. Sometimes it continues after the engine has heated up but only when idling in any gear other than park. Does anyone have an idea as to what the problem may be? Please let me know

    Whoever designed the location for the clock I hope got fired from the company.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    It's been a while, but I just knew the clock issue would resurface if someone dug far enough back. There are guages in plain sight, but people still drive with the temp needle buried until the engine seizes, but we are worried about the clock that you have to actually have to make an effort to see. Personnaly, I never found the clock worth complaining about, but if that is the worst problem real owners can find, Tacomas are good.
  • I have an 06 Double Cab Sport purchased in Nov. / 05. Haven't noticed this vibration on deceleration but have a shutter / vibration on light to moderate acceleration on the 1-2 shift at 15 to 20 K (10 to 20 MPH ). More noticeable starting off at the base of a hill. The vehicle has 6,000 K now. This problem did not show itself until after the first 1,500 K. Toyota people seem to have never heard of this before and the test drive they took did not convince them there was a problem. Three months back I test drove a few of these trucks (05 & 06)and found more than a few of them had a mild to severe driveline shutter at moderate to heavey throttle. This vibration seemed to originate further back on the driveline well back of the driver. The sales staff even noticed but passed it off. There is a rubber mounted carrier bearing that might have been moving off centre under heavey torque load. This vibration would diminish as the speed of the vehicle increased. I liked everything else about this vehicle. Decided back then to wait a few months and test some more before buying. The one I bought did not have any drive line vibration under moderate to heavey throttle. There are slip joints on both drivelines. If these joints do not have the proper type or amount of grease they will bind and hang up. This can cause a thump or vibration on startup. I think Toyota knows more than its saying. Seemed to get an inferrence that a possible revision (recall) from Toyota was coming. My slight shutter is quite noticable in everday slow rushour traffic. I will give the driveline a little more time to wear in before aggressively pursuing a solution from Toyota.
  • I have an 06 Double Cab 4 by 4 Sport purchased in Nov. / 05. Haven't noticed this vibration on deceleration but have a shutter / vibration on light to moderate acceleration on the 1-2 shift at 15 to 20 K (10 to 20 MPH ). More noticeable starting off at the base of a hill. The vehicle has 6,000 K now. This problem did not show itself until after the first 1,500 K. Toyota people seem to have never heard of this before and the test drive they took did not convince them there was a problem. Three months back I test drove a few of these trucks (05 & 06)and found more than a few of them had a mild to severe driveline shutter at moderate to heavey throttle. This vibration seemed to originate further back on the driveline well back of the driver. The sales staff even noticed but passed it off. There is a rubber mounted carrier bearing that might have been moving off centre under heavey torque load. This vibration would diminish as the speed of the vehicle increased. I liked everything else about this vehicle. Decided back then to wait a few months and test some more before buying. The one I bought did not have any drive line vibration under moderate to heavey throttle. There are slip joints on both drivelines. If these joints do not have the proper type or amount of grease they will bind and hang up. This can cause a thump or vibration on startup. I think Toyota knows more than its saying. Seemed to get an inferrence that a possible revision (recall) from Toyota was coming. My slight shutter is quite noticable in everday slow rushour traffic. I will give the driveline a little more time to wear in before aggressively pursuing a solution from Toyota.
  • woody72woody72 Posts: 73
    I have a '00 with the 2.7L with about 87K miles and have kept up with all filter, oil and plug changes but neglected to notice the 60K mile 'inspect valve clearance' in the maintenence schedule. It has a vibration at idle and check engine light is now on, otherwise runs fine. The mechanic says one of my #3 intake valves is bad hence low compression effecting the o2 sensor setting off the check light. He recommends a valve job at between $2300-2800! Does anyone routinely adjust these valves at 60K mile intervals? If my clearance is tight, keeping a valve from completely seating will a valve adjustment help or is it too late, the heat damage has been done? Would appreciate any related comments, thanks

    Also to Chagasi re timing belt/chain on 2.7L The 2.7L has a chain not a belt and does not have a recommended replacement mileage. You replace it when it gets very noisy along with the tensioner whereas the belt in the V6 is recommended to replace regardless of condition at 90K
  • I have an 05 Tacoma. This is the first time I'm changing the oil. When changing the oil filter, how do you keep the oil from running out of the filter after loosening it to take it off? :confuse: ">
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    Valve clearance usually gets larger (more loose) w/ time, but I suppose it's possible. I would say it's worth a shot, but I'm guessing (from previous experience w/ other vehicles) that the cost of labor for valve adjustment won't be small. If you get a valve job, you'll get that as part of the package. You could shop around for better pricing, or, if you have high confidence in your mechanic's ethics, ask him to start w/ the assumption that he's doing a valve adjustment, going first to #3 to see if those clearances are tight. If so, maybe that's all you need (he could probably tell from inspection). If not, the disassembly is already started for the valve job. But I wouldn't count on that being all you need.
This discussion has been closed.