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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • ryan14ryan14 Posts: 15
    I recently bought a used tacoma 2004 from dealer with 66k on it. The problem is when I stop at traffic light the whole car lightly shake once. Does any one have same problem?
  • ryan14ryan14 Posts: 15
    I have the same problem (Mgs # 1919). Please update what your solution. Thanks
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    It is obviously something you are doing. This is not something that is a trend for Toyota. Are all the Toys you had trucks? Did all have overhead racks? Something has to be unique. Do you have an uneven dip in your driveway that causes unusual body twist? For all 6 you have owned to have the same problem, there has to be a link. Do you have a heavy person on one side and a light person on the other side? Maybe a heavyduty bumper that does not allow body twist?
  • barjo4barjo4 Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Tacoma with the standard CD player and after an hour and a half or so, my CDRs have a tendency to skip. Not all the time, but sometimes. Toyota tells me not to play them at all, but I don't accept that. I have bought higher grade CDR media to see if this will help. I noticed the discs are really warm when i remove them after the problem starts. Toyota told me that I would void the warranty if I changed to an aftermarket player.

    I don't know if that is correct and assuming it is not, what are recommended players I could look for?
    Thanks, John
  • castcast Posts: 6
    Any body out there with axle wrap thump, I finally fix it after people telling me it was my drive shaft,trans,rear end,all kinds of thing, when I could see my pinon moving up and down way to much. I talk to the dealer they said there was no fix for the problem, well Im here to tell there is. A military wrap on the leaf spring which I did or ladder bars which are far more money. This thump sound and feeling was driving me nuts and I wasn't going to give up when the dealer told me there was no fix, thats bull [non-permissible content removed], they just don't want to fix thousands of trucks. It's just the way they are I looked at a 2005 and the have changed the slip yoke position,and the spring angle,and spring it self. Any way I hope my efforts help some body out there.
  • castcast Posts: 6
    There is 2 ways to fix it that I know, A military leaf wrap , or a good set of laddders bars. both of these will get rid of that "thump".
  • Thanks Woody.
    This is very interesting because my '04 V6 Tacoma displays those exact symptoms, a little vibration at idle, esp. in drive; and missing on start ups. Could valves be out of adjustment from the factory?
    Your response is appreciated.
    thanks
  • tokyojoetokyojoe Posts: 13
    I saw many reporting and complaining about the engine noise described as clicking, dieseling and knocking on '06 Tacoma and mine(AC/2.7L/4AT)does too. Many were told by the dealers that it is a typical '06 exhaust noise and some even suggested to adjust the valves. After several e-mails and callings to Toyota, I finally heard that Toyota is aware of this problem. The noise is caused by the fuel line bracket, and a newly designed fuel line bracket will be available shortly and the owners will be notified. Hopefully this info helps the Tacoma owners out there.
  • obeanineobeanine Posts: 1
    Your story is so like mine, I mean to a 'T'. Dealership diagnosed a cylinder misfire, #3 and told me that it would cost $800-1000 to tear it down and find the problem and not do anything, and most likely will result in needing a new engine or a rebuilt, running about $5000. I said, "Your sh-----g me, right?" No mister O'Brien, that is what it needs. I paid $87 for the diagnostic and left very confused. I was scheduled to depart for Alaska on Dec. 1, 2005. Luckily I have a brother-in-law that is a toyota cert. mech. that use to work for the lousy dealership I just left.
    For $125, including parts, he did a valve adjustment and changed the spark plugs, but not with denso k16r-u. Engine light off and no problems driving up in 30 below temps. Got to AK and a few weeks later the engine light came back on. Problem got steadily worse then disappeared. Reappeared a couple weeks later and this time got real bad, hesitation with clunking noise that softened as you reached the high end of the gear before shifting. Thought it was going to seize. So, Changed oil, oil filter, air filter, checked pcv, checked EGR, checked all hoses, transfer case, and transmission. A little improvement. Got online and read about similar problems and mistakes made, so next I went and got Denso K16R-U spark plugs and changed those out, added injector cleaner, and oil treatment. Runs like it just had a valve adjustment, idles fine... but from what I've learned the problem will return. 132,500 miles and 4th set of spark plugs, 1st- denso, 2nd-autolite, 3rd-autolite, 4th-denso, lets see what happens. Good luck.
  • castcast Posts: 6
    does it shake or is it like some body lighty bumped you from behind.
  • woody72woody72 Posts: 73
    Has your check engine light come on? Since it is still under warranty I would request Toyota to check valve clearance.
  • ryan14ryan14 Posts: 15
    It is like some body lighty bumped from behind
  • My dealer told me that Toyota is aware of this problem and believe it or not it's just the gas moving around in the tank. Unfortunately with my '06 with the V6 it's a clunk in the driveline on start up thats my problem.
  • morgan5morgan5 Posts: 13
    Does installing either solution affect the ride? Does it create a harder ride? With regards to ride, is one better than the other?
  • castcast Posts: 6
    Did not make a differance on my truck. And I did the leaf wrap. Not sure about ladder bars.
  • castcast Posts: 6
    It's probably axle wrap. Do a leaf wrap or ladder bars.
  • I own a 95 toyota tacoma and had the same problem with the clutch,squeak. Yes the dealership will go good for the problem,just keep going back until the rectifiy the squeak. I had parts and bushings replaced. But every time it comes back I take it back and they fix it. scellfish
  • To fill based on the dipstick reading is very good advice.
  • whooiewhooie Posts: 5
    Does this clunk feel like a ritating mass out of round? and the go away at 1500rpms. mine does that 06 v6 auto. whats all this talk about axle wrap and ladder bars.
  • jeradajerada Posts: 1
    i have the same problem on my 2004 double cab. does anybody know how much either the ladder bars or the leaf wrap solution cost?
  • kegskegs Posts: 1
    2006 tacoma trd having shuddering problems in first gear and reverse. dealer said it has a low first gear and a lot of torque so the axel is wrapping. No one else has complained about this problem to any dealer within 150 mile radius. I just cant buy that excuse, it is a 28,000 truck and should be able to handle the torque. The problem is not as severe when in 4x4. Does this happen to all tacomas or just a select few. I am bringing it in for the second time tomorrow. Do i have a problem or do i have to deal with it the way it is? Who makes military leaf wraps for this truck? please reply, desperate for an answer. thank you GPR
  • Just started experiencing this problem this winter with my 2000 Tacoma 4x4 auto tranmission, 133,000 miles. When it was freezing or below everytime I came to a stop the drive wheel on the passengers side would lock up. If I was on snow or ice the truck would go into a skid I could not get out of. If I take my foot off gas with truck in drive it would not roll forward. When I stepped on the gas there was a loud thump/bang sound and the wheel would release and the truck would go forward. If I shifted into reverse for a split second and quickly put it back in drive without stepping on the brake, there as no thump/bang sound and the truck would roll forward as normal. Kind of tricky with a car behind you at a stop light. In the warmer weather when I stopped, the wheel would not fully lock up, but it would feel like the brake was slightly engaged or sticking; and if I took my foot off the gas sometimes the truck would roll forward and other times it would just sit there. The problem is worse if you depress the brake harder or quickly. If you softly press on the brake and come to a slow stop it doesnot occur or occurs lightly. My mechanic is stumped as they have taken apart the rear brake assemble and gone over the whole thing twice and have found no problems with the brakes. One of them is figuring on a transfer case problem. They have researched the repair archives thru Toyota concerning a problem like this and have found nothing. Anybody have any experience with this? Thanks.
  • castcast Posts: 6
    How did they do the leaf wrap. And is your truck lifted. The leaf wrap worked great for me. That clunk or bump feeling was driving me nuts, and when the dealer told me it was all right and normal and there was no fix I wasn't going to buy into that crap.
  • I don't know if you still have the tacoma but mine is doing the same exact thing. Have you tried the leaf spring? if so did it work? thanks
  • sugarman1sugarman1 Posts: 92
    This sounds like a case of the front caliper piston either hanging up or frozen did your mechanic check to see if the pistons in the caliper are moving in and out freely? One time I was gonig to change my brake pads and could not press the pistons back to install new ones and had to replace both calipers on front this was after 200,000miles service they were both frozen and would not retrack. Sometimes also in very cold weather do not leave your parking brake engaged overnight because moisture freezes rear pads to the drum and will not release,parking brake light will remain on if you drive they will heat up and release eventually this happened on all my Toyota trucks with weather below freezing with slushy snow or freezing rain.
  • My mechanic appears to have found the problem this time with the rear right brake lock. About 5 months back they changed a leaking rear seal for me. At that time they did not replace the brake pad cause it was half worn. They sanded it down. However, last week they noticed a sticky gooey substance on the inside of the drum, and on closer inspection noticed the shoe appeared soaked in oil and grease. They cleaned up the drum, put new shoes on, and it has been fine since then.
  • lljoneslljones Posts: 1
    I began smelling exhaust fumes in my 2005 Tacoma recently after its 30K service. The truck now has 34k and I have had it back to the dealer 3 times. They claim not to smell it ... I drive 60 miles each way to work and they only take it on small runs and/or leave it running for periods. Is there any history of this problem? The truck burns or leaks a bit of oil but dealer again says not a problem ... they searched for leaks (exhaust and or oil) and claim to have found none. Any thoughts?
  • smokey888smokey888 Posts: 16
    Is this the same thingie:

    soundman34, "Toyota Tacoma 2005+" #6853, 8 Apr 2006 5:33 am

    I have a friend that is a Toyota/Lexus certified mechanic. He actually works more on the Lexus side but a lot of the platforms and applications are the same. I have been having this clunk in the driveline since last summer or at about the 5000 mile mark. Last year my dealer gave me the "it's normal for these trucks" speach and sent me on my way. The one thing I could not swallow is the fact I paid for toyota quality and service and then I get this kind of response. Anyway, back to the clunk. After talking to my friend, he confirmed everything I have been researing and discussing with fellow tacoma owners. The problem is the splined slip yoke assembly sticking and hanging up when coming to a stop and starting from a stop. Lexus is having the same trouble with their SUV line. The lexus SUV line shares the 4 Runner platform with Toyota. Unfortunatly Lexus is doing more about the problem than Toyota is. As you all can probably relate, the spline slip yoke is not being lubed probably at the factory. They are basically putting as little grease in them as possible. On top of that, the machining process of this part is not the greatest. The splined slip yoke is not smooth enough. These are the two reasons we are having this problem. After about 5000 miles or so (in my case) this starts to wear and stick. The only condition is that it only sticks at temperatures above 55 degrees outside ambient temperature which supports the lubrication issue. Above those temperatures with what little grease that is in there is not doing it's job properly. You probably can get the dealer to replace the whole driveline unit (from the carrige bearing back to the rear diff.) which will fix the problem for now but once those parts start to wear in you will have the same problem again. How soon? Who knows. The main problem is in the machining process. Until Toyota takes a serious look at that the problem is always going to be there. Lubing the spline Yoke will also fix it, but in some cases it may be only temporary. I am going to his house later today and he is going to take the system apart and show me what he has said. He is also going to lube the spline yoke with Jewlers grease which is what Lexus is trying to do to reduce or eliminate the clunk unitl the machining process is looked at and solved. I am not familiar with jewlers grease so I am not sure how the application works, but I will know later today when we take things apart. Sorry to be so long winded, but this is how is was explained to me and it's makes a lot of sense. I will post what I found out when we tackle this later today.
  • smokey888smokey888 Posts: 16
    Found this post from a couple of years back:

    "The problem sounds similar to my truck and others where when stopping there is a thud in the rear like it was bumped. I think this is called "axle wrap" and is supposedly normal."
  • kensrujrkensrujr Posts: 1
    I just got a '98 toyota tacoma and the dome light is out. The door lights work, and the dome bulb worked when I tested it on another battery source. I tested the dome switch when the bulb was out and their was a 12V difference, but thier doesen't seem to be any Amps coming out, hence no light. The rest of the lights and circuitry seem to be working. Does anyone know what is going on with the dome light circuit?
    Thanks
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