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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions



  • chilid1chilid1 Posts: 2
    Wife drove truck to work then went to come home and check engine light came on truck runs alright drove to advance auto they read the OBD2 code and got an p1135. Now I have spent the last 3 hours looking for and cannot find it???. It's an 02 Taco. Help!!!
  • aktoyaktoy Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me what wire to spice into for installing an after market tachometer in my 1998 Tacoma 4x4 with the 2.7 engine? Thanks
  • yotayota Posts: 2
    I have a 03 tacoma double cab and on the lower portion of the rear doors, and bed the paint has come off and is rusted. the rear flares are also pitted. saw the rep today and she denied the claim to fix saying it is caused by enviro conditions. just trying to find something out ,research, other cases, anything. this problem has been going on since 3500 miles
  • yotayota Posts: 2
    I have a 03 tacoma double cab and the paint is coming off near the rear doors and the lower portion of the bed. Is this the same problem. They won't fix mine they say that is caused by enviro conditions
  • jschelljschell Posts: 1
    Sorry about making this a reply (I found the sight difficult). Im having a starting issue after I have run the truck for a while. Its a 1996 Tacoma 4x4 2.7L, here are the conditions to have an issue: the vehicle must be run to a good operating temp. for 15-20 min then kill the engine and let it sit for another 10-15 min. When I try to start the truck it floods out, I know it is flooding by the fuel smell in my oil, the truck starts again either by me trying again and again or leaving alone and trying again after 5min or so. No one has been able to help, not my mechanic, not toyota, not anyone. I did get a suggestion of an injector leaking down after killing the truck, but they are expensive to just give it a try. If anyone has any possible suggestions let me know. This issue as also led me to thiking about a swap to a toyota diesel engine, any ideas on that aswell let me know.

  • jimmerjimmer Posts: 9
    my 05 dc 4x4 was squeaking and making noises whenever i hit a bump or turned into a driveway. On my truck it's coming from the front bumper, where it actually mounts to the frame. toyota is aware of the problem but doesn't have a fix yet! My dealer mounted some old bumper between the mounts and the frame to remedy the problem for now!! It's better but i'm still waiting for the bulletin from toyota.
  • sgttoddsgttodd Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply-
    I ended up cleaning out the throttle body which had quite a buildup of black crap and just for good measure I changed the fuel filter today. After I cleaned the throttle body out I haven't had a problem what so ever with idleing or hesitation.
    I don't have K&N filter, but am sure that is a decent upgrade for the money.
  • l5504l5504 Posts: 8
    Just an update. The rough idle has not returned sense my last posting. But the hesitation seems to be getting gradually worse. Starts ok, runs ok until you mash on it. Then it hesitates. It does this in Park, Neutral or Drive. The lower the RPMs the more the hesitation. No after market filters or parts. All stock. Good thing I don't own a gun. It would be one dead Yota.
  • zirczirc Posts: 2
    Ok i usually dont post on these things but i read my chiltons and this forum and i am not so heavy on EFI so i thought i'd see if anyone else had the same issues.
    while driving if i get on the gas too hard the motor will hesistate and stumble real bad...but if i gradually step on the throttle there's not an issue ( fyi 5 speed manual trans) it also has difficulty starting ...but once started the issue isnt as severe as when i've driven it for awhile. I already changed the fuel filter ( what a nightmare, i wish i had the hands of the 8 yr old for that!!) the check engine light is on...but i was wondering if anybody knows or has any "its this stupid!!!" fixes ...i have a feeling its something really simple ..

    as a note i am in the navy and it sits for awhile sometimes and it started immediately after i drove it up onto a curb one day parallel parking and came down of the curb kinda hard ....when i returned is when the headache wouldnt start and i had to get i pulled the fuel filter and poked a hole in it as a get my butt home fix and it worked but with the stumbling when my right foot got heavy (theres was no check engine light initially). i put a new one in.....and it was better but has gotten worse over the last 2 or 3 weeks and also i guess the 76 stations around here (western WA) had been sellin crappy gas too and thats where i was goin at the time..
  • drathardrathar Posts: 7
    If the check engine light is on you should be able to get a fault code. You will need some equipment to get that code, and a manual to decipher it. My guess is it is an oxygen sensor.

    Thanks for your service in the US Navy!!!
  • kimm3kimm3 Posts: 2
    it means: air-fuel sensor heater circuit response malfunction...
    i have no idea what it means in regular english though...
  • kimm3kimm3 Posts: 2
    what does this mean? well, i know the definitions, but how do i fix it?
  • jtillerjtiller Posts: 1
    In response to your vibration problem, I own the same truck. Mine has the TRD, but not sure if that makes a difference (we do have different diffs, though). I noticed a similar problem, but in third gear. It is a cyclical, pulsating vibration of approximately 1hz (1 cycle each second). Although I don't work in the auto industry, I am an engineer, and am convinced it's a harmonics problem somewhere between the tranny and the transfer case.

    Long story short (I'll try), I took it in 7 or 8 times (5 were thoroughly documented repair/inspection attempts; others were for ride-alongs, etc.). They first told me at 5k some bs reason, like I had mud caked on my tires or something. Then, they inspected the drive shaft, transfer case, diff, etc., before replacing the tranny fluid. Told me to drive it home and come back for a new tranny if it persisted. It did, but they did not (replace it). I'm missing work, having to fill out paperwork each time for rental cars, etc., and each time I don't even make it home before I've duplicated it again. So, I play dumb and ask what they know about the Lemon Law. They give me some line about it not being in my best interest, and then I whip out the copy I printed off the web an hour earlier, and read it to them. They seemed to have taken me more seriously at that point, but that didn't solve the problem yet. They have their "team leader" tech ride along with me, and this time he removes the rear drive shaft before having me put it in 4H (making it front wheel drive) and drive around. To my premature relief, the VIBRATION IS GONE! Next is the drive shaft replacement, then the rear diff. Still a vibration. They stall me, ask me to wait a week for this reason or that, and don't want to say the words "transmission" or "transfer case," I think because they don't want to eat the cost if it doesn't fix it.

    I call or am called by several people, to no evail. They call me their buddy when we speak, but never really offer any real solution, other than me trading it in for "a great deal" on an 05 in which I'd have to cover the $5200 difference b/t what mine's worth and the rock-bottom price on a new one. They wouldn't even throw in a car wash for all my trouble, and they laugh at the idea of giving me a new truck or throwing in an accessory once it's potentially fixed.

    So, I researched as much as I could about the Lemon Law in my state, and then I sent an email to a law firm specializing in these cases. They call me back 4 minutes later and tell me I have a great case. Within a week, they have all my info and have agreed to represent me (that was this week) with no retainer, and waive all fees if we end up losing. Statute decrees that all lawyer fees are paid by Toyo if we win. Most likely scenario is a cash settlement, but a replacement is a possibility. The out of pocket I'll have to pay is about $300 total for an ASE mechanic to verify the problem exists, and some kind of court cost. That's it, regardless of the outcome of the case. 90% of cases settle almost immediately. Law firm states 99% success rate if it actually goes to court. The down side is the process may take a while, and I'm supposed to keep mileage to a minimum during the process. There's a lot more to it, but I'll stop here. I'd highly recommend searching for a firm called Krohn and Moss if you want to learn more about your rights and what you're realistically entitled to.

    So, in summary, I could no longer live with the problem, especially on a brand new truck, and decided my only real option left was to pursue legal action. The worst part about all this? I LOVE the truck otherwise. Sure, the gas mileage or effective hp could be a little better, but I've really grown attached to it. I just want the quality and flaw resolution I had in mind when I spent 23k on a new Toyota.
  • rmb4rmb4 Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 tacoma with the 3.4L V6. The fuse box is busted and I need a new one. I am trying to find one off another wreck that is still good, but the problem is I dont know which ones will work. Does it have to be one off a 3.4l or can it come off a 4cyl. I know there are at least two types, but dont know which will work for me. If you can help please let me know. Thanks
  • 0rbit1230rbit123 Posts: 5
    I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma pre-runner x-cab V6 with 91000 miles auto. Within the last month I have had my engine cut out twice at a stop light (like stalling with a manual trans). And within the last week, upon startup, I have the engine stall out. The engine would cycle and then drop RPM's to zero and be out ... If I hold down the gas I can get it to stay ... and when it is warm it doesn't seem to have a problem -- any ideas on what to look at for the fix?
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    The first thing I would check is the fuel filter. It's relatively inexpensive and is often the cause of what you're describing.

    Hope this helps.

  • 0rbit1230rbit123 Posts: 5

    Is the fuel filter easy to access or do you need an auto shop to get to it? I have not picked up a tacoma service manual yet, so unsure on exact location.

    Thank you.
  • sgttoddsgttodd Posts: 4
    The fuel filter is located appr. underneath the drivers side seat in the undercarriage. It's relatively easy to change and to make sure it doesn't leak after changing put some white plumbers tape on the threads but make sure you use the tape that is meant for fuels. If you dont use it no biggy, but you might have more problems getting the connections leakproof if you dont. Another possible quick solution to your problem is to clean out the throttle body. That coupled with cleaning the MAF cured my rough idle, hesiotation problrm right up.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    ditto the last posting. *ROFL* honestly, that was a perfect complement to my suggestion.

  • 0rbit1230rbit123 Posts: 5
    I would like to thank you both - I cleaned out my MAF and it seems to running a lot smoother. Just curious, to clean out the fuel filter - do I need to drain/empty my fuel tank or some how bleed the lines to ensure no fuel will come spraying out when I try and detach. If yes, what is a good process to do this. If you can't tell, I am just getting into working on my own vehicle and don't have a good grasp on the basics yet.

    Thanks again.
This discussion has been closed.