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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • cplamb1cplamb1 Posts: 1
    I was driving down the Interstate yesterday and did something I had done many times in my 2006 toyota tacoma v6 4x4 longbed but this new beast caught me by surprise and I wondered if it was typical? I was in the slow lane approaching a car (Cruise set at 65) in front of me and was unable to pull to the fast lane to pass as a car was approaching from behind in that lane. I "released" the Cruise to slow down by blipping the lever towards me and then when the car was past me I pushed up on the lever to resume my speed, pull out and pass. I was originally going about 65 slowed to about 50 and was "resuming" to 65. The truck gradually began to increase speed but when it hit about 55 all of a sudden it down shifted about two gears and the engine revved to about 3500K+ (in about 1/2 second) and I felt like I was in the Daytona 500! I blipped the cruise again so that it would release and I used the accelerator to get back up to speed and then reset the cruise. Is this normal for the new 5 speed? Startling to say the least! Thanks!
  • tokyojoetokyojoe Posts: 13
    I need your advise on which tonneau cover fits my 06 Tacoma's 6ft bed(2x4,4cyl model,Access Cab with the factory installed bed rail system)as I'm so confused because many seem to fit one without the rail system(but all 06 models come with the rail systems).
  • fredj2fredj2 Posts: 1
    I just had my 2000 tacoma (2.7L; 120,000 miles) in to Toyota to diagnose the check engine light and was told that the exhaust valve on #3 cylinder was tight and the engine needs a valve job ($2,000).

    Please let me know how you ended up resolving your valve issue. Anything that you wished you had done different?

    Thank you. Fred
  • nolammnolamm Posts: 1
    Try the Access Roll-Up Cover made by Agri-Cover, Inc. It fits without any clamps or drilling and incorporates the rail system so you can still use the tie downs. The cover rail securing bolts use the existing holes for the rail system. I have it on my 06 Taco and it works and fits great. Get many compliments. Only took about an hour to install. Also has a lifetime warranty. Can be opened with one hand and ribs are intigrated into the cover. If you check the photo gallery on their website you can see what one looks like installed on a Taco.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    It is typical of the Automatic Toyotas in general (maybe other models too). I found that out with my Tundra too. The cruise doesn't believe in getting up to speed slowly. Years ago the cruise would pull the throttle down a little bit and either hold it there or cut the cruise off. The Toys just keep pulling until speed is achieved, even if it means shifting down a few gears. Where I really noticed the shifting was in the mountains with a trailer in tow. Scared the crap out of me the first time. Used to be that the cruise would kick out when the speed dropped about 4MPH. Tundra just pulled harder. I found that I had to kick the cruise out on hills and use the pedal to accelerate rather than the cruise. Hit resume when you get within a couple miles per hour. I solved the problem (if it is a problem) by getting a stick. Can't blame the cruise. You say you want to go 65 and it is going to get you there (or hold you there )as quick as possible. Comes with the drive to put smaller, more efficient engines in vehicles.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    An inch and a half at 31K is certainly not acceptable. I am going to assume that you mean the steering wheel moves that much with the engine running with no movement to the tires. The easiest way to find the problem is to have someone sit in the truck and turn the wheel back and forth real slow (just to the point of tire movement) with the engine running. What you want to watch is the rack assembly (bushing play will allow the rack to move left and right). There should be zero movement. Also, watch to see if there is steering wheel movement with no response at all from the racc (internal racc problem). Look at the tierod ends at the wheel also. One may have movement. Again there should be no play. If all else fails, jack the wheel by the lower ball joint and by the frame to see if either wheel has play up, down, in, out, anything that may be loose. At 31K, the dealer is just hoping you will limp through 36K so they will get paid better to fix the problem. Granted, the dealer gets paid by the manufacture for warrantee work, but they don't have to answer for their repairs to a knowledgeable rep if it is not warrantee repair. It is no different with Nissan, Ford or Hyundai. There may be a quarter inch play in 6 different parts that are all within limits, so the factory refuses to pay the bill. But add all the minor defects up and you have a big problem. The dealer can charge you for them and fix your problem. I think your problem is the racc mount bushings though, and they should be replaced under warranty if they are bad, and they will not show up as bad until you have the wheels on the ground putting pressure on it while turning. If you are in the Tacoma area I would be happy to look at it. Otherwise, good luck!
  • tokyojoetokyojoe Posts: 13
    Nolamm, thanks for your advise. I thought the Access is one of the best in soft covers. However, only Access's "Literider" or "Limited Edition" models seem to fit mine. According to AutoAnything.com site, Access's original "Roll-up" cover fits one without the rail system but as you know all 06 Tacos come with the rail system factory installed. That's why I'm confused. Please let me know which model yours is and its approximate weight. Also advise if the gas mileage improved.
  • njm8506njm8506 Posts: 2
    I have a '96 Tacoma that will not restart if 1) I've driven it for more than half an hour; and 2) it's about 85 degrees or hotter outside. It acts like it's flooded when I try to start it. Eventually it will turn over but it takes some work. The dealer can't figure it out. Any ideas?
  • njm8506njm8506 Posts: 2
    OK, I'm not a mechanic so this is probably a simple question. I drove down the street with the emergency brake on a few times and the light wouldn't go off. I took the truck to the dealer and he said it needed to be replaced so I said fine. About 5 days later I hit a bump and the brake light came on again. I took it back to the dealer and said what gives? He said they only replaced the cable on the right side and not the entire thing. That was not my understanding of what happened. The mechanic came out and said that the truck is 10 years old and that the cables were all rotted underneath there. He said eventually the e-brake would go. Well last night it went. Trouble is, I think it broke in the "on" position. I drove the truck this morning and it drives weird and smells weird when I turn it off.
    Dumb question -- Can I drive like that anyway until I get it fixed? What's the worst that could happen?
  • seranikoseraniko Posts: 27
    anybidy had added afteramrket cruise control kit on their taco's? I have an 06 that i'd like to use the audiovox ccs100 kit, but i need the instructions. help. thx.
  • rocklarockla Posts: 12
    I got a 06 taco, four doors sr5 automatic 32000km on it. I have been toping up the power steering fluid ever seance I got the truck. Went to the dealer and they did not see any problem whit it then.
    I was driving it last week and got a massive oil leak from one of the seals of the rack and pinion got it towed to the dealer and they replaced it on warranty told me it was a first time they saw that. Ever noticed that the original power steering fluid from factory is not dextron III . It’s a clear oil.
  • rocklarockla Posts: 12
    Any body know how do I check my auto transmition oil level??
    Dont see any dipstick on my 06 v6. can anybody help me?
  • woofwoof Posts: 27
    I'm wondering how many have noticed the poor shift patterns of the 05-06 Tacoma's auto transmissions? Issues: hunting for gears, downshifts when going downhill, slow to downshift when more power is needed, many unnecessary shifts, "shudder", rought shifts, etc. These issues have been documented on tundrasolutions.com. Many have reported to Toyota and have requested new software and assitance to fix. BTW, if you drive mostly on level roads, you probably won't experience this.
  • You obviously had a steering rack end seal leaking inside the bellows boot,so nobody could "see" the leak, untill it became so bad it blew out.My '99 taco x-cab (88,000 miles now) never had to have a drop of p-s fluid added so far, what happened to toyota quality? got me.Lucky yours "failed" before it was out of warranty.(if it "had" to fail that is)
  • What some folks don't realize is that when a valve face and seat wears, the rocker arm to valve stem clearance can be reduced, eventually resulting in the valve not sealing tight enough when closed, which will result in valve burning due to the torch-like effect of the heat of combustion leaking past it. I have heard of 2.7L taco engines making it way past 150-k with no valve adjustments, but it is risky going that long without having valve clearance (non hydraulic lifter type)checked, and adjusted if needed.
  • tokyojoetokyojoe Posts: 13
    I had a similar problem with the power steering system on my 06 Taco SR5(2.7,access cab,4AT)at 2000 miles only 2 months after the purchase. Originally I noticed the oil level in the power steering reservoir was low and put some ATF(dexron III-red stuff). I kept putting for about 2qts, then power steering went out but there was no leak. But I realized the two rubber boots connected to each end of power steering unit at the bottom were both swollen up. They were holding the 2qts as well as the original oil. Local Toyota dealer kept my Taco for 2 days and replaced the whole unit under warranty. Yes, I noticed that the original oil in the reservoir was a clear one but the oil the dealer put was the same red stuff that I had.
  • jfigueroa1jfigueroa1 Posts: 209
    Good Day,
    I work on marine engines and for what I had seen,
    for the out board engine steering some people will use regular red hydra/ different
    red= a few $$ a quart
    clear seastar hydra= 20.00 a quart.
    maybe factory invest a lil more on high end oils thinking the part will not fail, and oil will be good for many years.
    dealers need to save $$.
  • jmueseljmuesel Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem. At first I thought it was the fuel pump cutting out or just out right failing. However, before I tried replacing the $200 fuel pump, I tried replacing the fuel-injector relay. What happened is when the vehicle would heat up, a crack in the relay would expand causing a short in the relay, in turn shutting off the fuel injectors. Also, on the hot days when the truck would sit in the sun, the relay would again heat up and the relay would short out. I replaced the fuel injector relay for something like $60 and the truck has run ever since. My relay was located, I believe, under the steering column in the cab right underneath the dashboard. You might want to check that location from Chilton's Manual or another automotive technology book.

    Best of luck to you.
  • jmueseljmuesel Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem. At first I thought it was the fuel pump cutting out or just out right failing. However, before I tried replacing the $200 fuel pump, I tried replacing the fuel-injector relay. What happened is when the vehicle would heat up, a crack in the relay would expand causing a short in the relay, in turn shutting off the fuel injectors. Also, on the hot days when the truck would sit in the sun, the crack in the relay would again heat up and the relay would short out. Once the vehicle cooled off, the crack would shrink and the relay would work again. I replaced the fuel injector relay for something like $60 and the truck has run ever since. My relay was located, I believe, under the steering column in the cab right underneath the dashboard. You might want to check that location from Chilton's Manual or another automotive technology book.

    Best of luck to you.
  • seranikoseraniko Posts: 27
    are they self cancelling on 06 taco?
  • dustinmdustinm Posts: 1
    I just bought a 06, and I want to mount my old tool box from my 90's taco into my new one, the only problem is the bed is plastic. Does anyone have any ideas on where to find the slide rail mounts for tool boxes?
  • nmtaconmtaco Posts: 4
    I have a 2005 Tacoma Regular cab 2.7/automatic and it stalled on me in the intersection today for the first time. I have less than 14k miles on it. It has never done that before and is currently at Toyota now. I got it started only to keep stalling out on me, I pulled to a Valvoline for them to look at (just in case it was something minor, like the battery cable, etc.) but had to get a tow truck. Good thing too because I'm 9 months pregnant and can go into labor any minute! I am hoping that they will fix the problem, or else I can never trust the vehicle again! "Go toyota", should be more like "Go Walking"...If you can think of anything else that it could be (it was only 85 degrees today) I would appreciate it!
  • nmtaconmtaco Posts: 4
    I got a call from Toyota today, they have to replace my entire fuse box. They were very surprised because they have never seen this needed for a new truck with so few miles...Anyway, at least they found out the problem and will fix it...Has anyone else experienced such a problem on their new Toyota??
  • farmer3farmer3 Posts: 21
    I have an '02 tacoma 4-door 4wheel drive that has been leaking water. When you turn, it spills over either into the driver or passenger floorboard (the water is freezing cold and it sizzles. It like sloshes around when you turn and seems to "spill" out in the floorboard). We had an exceptionally hot summer, although I did not drive the vehicle much. Anyone know what the cause might be?
  • any luck finding a toyota manual ? The starter or selonoid seems to have gone bad in mine, I tried to pull out the started but you cant unless you drop the tranny or brake lines. I have 96 tacoma, 2.4 4x4 a dealer told me it is uusally the connetions on the inside but i can pull it out to work it.
  • seranikoseraniko Posts: 27
    check the drain tube from the a/c evaporator...might be disconnected, should discharged outside the cab.
  • I have a 2006 Tacoma 4.0 AUTO TRD Off Road 4door short bed. When I leave a stop the vehicle shakes or shudders. This happens from about 3 to 10 mph. The factory suggested replacing the drive line but that did not work. Has anyone cured this or had the problem? Thanks mfrancko
  • farmer3farmer3 Posts: 21
    Thanks Farmer3. Used a coat hanger the first couple of times. Stick it in the drain hole from the engine and the water just pours out (I could feel something a little weird w/ the coat hanger like something was opening up? Thought that did it, but several days later it filled up again, and again. This time I took the rubber drain thing off --geez that thing is rather big --how could it get clogged??? I could find nothing. Removing the plastic pan that originally hold the water before it goes through the rubber tube, looked very complicated to remove and more than I wanted to get involved in (aka --eff it up!). Could it have been some air bubble, or something. I stuck the hanger in the plastic part (w/ a hook) but of course I could feel nothing or remove nothing. This is weird. We'll see...?

    T
  • On my 06 I couldn't find any screws.Do you know how to remove an 06?
This discussion has been closed.