Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

16869717374101

Comments

  • Recently my 99 Tacoma has been having troubble starting. It sounds to me to be a starter problem but i thought i would ask and see what everyone else thought. (before i spent $ 237 on a new starter) When i go to start it I hear a click. Some times it will catch and start other times it wont start for a while. Also i am not sure what size engine it has could anyone point out where to find that info? THANKS !!
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    I'm assuming that you checked battery voltage.
    Should not be below 12VDC.
    Generator voltage when running should be between 13.5 and 15 V.

    Now, check all connections, particularly grounds.

    Check all connections to the starter, generator, and battery.
    Check engine to chasis ground.
    Check starter to chasis ground if it exists.

    Grounds are the most common and least expensive prblms to fix.
  • I have a 1996 toyota tacoma with a 2.7 standard. I have just been told by a certified toyota mechanic that my igniter is bad. My truck will run normal for days or weeks and then out of nowhere it will start to die while you are driving it or when you are at a stop sign. (it has no preference when it dies either at rpm or in or out of gear). It has now progressively gotten worse. it used to always start right back up but now you must crank on it for a while. My mechanic told me that the person who owned it before me (jerry rigged) a ground wire from the negative battery post to the drivers side fender (which you can plainly see). This in turn he says fried my igniter. I found one at a junk yard but haven't got it in the mail yet. when I do I will give you an update to see if it worked. I got it for 50 bucks but a new one will set you back 410 dollars good luck!
  • I forgot to mention that my check engine light is on . I have had it checked and first it come up to be the first oxygen sensor but was told by my mechanic that it wouldn't make it die. si i didn't replace it. Then i had it cleared and it came back on now it said I had the oxygen sensor bad, cataladic converter bad, and crank senser bad. But the guy I bought it off of said he replaced it twice and it kept coming back on so he told me not to replace it again. Any help would be greatly recieved.
  • keks1keks1 Posts: 7
    Thanks for all the information. The reason why I took my truck in is because it randomly kept popping out or fourth gear. My maintenance light never came on when that kept happening, but it did when my odometer read 5,000 m exaclty. As for the transmission thing, i'm scheduled to bring my truck back to the service dept. next week. They need to open up the trans. Has this type of problem happened to anyone you knew? Mahalo for your advice and time.
  • keks1keks1 Posts: 7
    How is this comment suppose to help? Maybe the owners manual might not always have the answers to problems that other people have encountered. Have you always looked to the manual for your answers and never asked any questions?
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    " How is this comment suppose to help? "

    Go back and read the original author's post. They never even opened the owner's manual AT ALL. I understand having questions after reading the manual, but look their first......sheesh.....
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    If you don't get proper ignition, a number of other errors could come up.
    I'd make the first change, clear the codes, then see what comes up.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    The maintenance light will not be triggered by a malfunction. It is turned on by a counter in the ECM. It is only a reminder that scheduled maint is due. (I have heard that on some pricey vehicles, there are some special features which monitor oil cleanliness and will trigger the maint light based on that, but that is not the case here, nor in the majority of systems.)

    OTOH, the check engine light or MIL (malfunction indicator light) will come on if the computer determines that there is an error, and stores that code. Some intermittent errors are stored in a separate memory and if they do not recurr within so many start/stop cycles, they are cleared without generating a MIL indication. (A flashing MIL is bad news and you should make every effort to shut down immediately.) In any event, if a malfunction is detected by the system, it will possibly light the MIL, but not the maint light.

    Once the appropriate maint has been performed, simply turn the lamp off using the procedure in the manual.
  • I would probably check out e-bay for some good deals..Just make sure you know what your looking for and that you don't purchase the wrong thing.
  • I am having the exact same problem...did you get this fixed yet??? Just wondering what exactly the problem is so I can take a look at it

    thans man!!
  • bigfrogbigfrog Posts: 27
    You got a bad valve guide/head seen it many times
  • keks1keks1 Posts: 7
    Right on Msibille! Thanks for your info./advice....It's a big help. :)
  • I just replaced the igniter and took it for a test drive. It ran good until I shut it off to get gas and after that I had to crank on it for about ten seconds and it didn't start so I turned the key back and then tried it again this time it fired right up, but on the way home it tried to die twice. The hard starting seems to be a crank sensor problem. Even though the previous owner said he replaced it twice I am still taking it in to the toyota dealer Monday and having it scoped again since the Check Engine light is back on. Im going to also put a new toyota crank sensor and oxygen sensor even though the mechanic said a bad o2 sensor wouldn;t cause the truck to stall out. The trucks only geting around 18 mile to the gallon on the highway right now and with the price of gas I can justify the money. If anyone has any sugestions on what I should do write back other wise I will write back after I get it out of the shop. I hope I didn't buy a :lemon:
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    A lot of the parts houses will plug their OBDII reader into your truck for no charge and tell you the code output. They can also reset it in case you want to see if it recurrs.
    You might stop by one of them today or tomorrow and see what the reader says before you go to the dealer.

    good luck
  • dshadedshade Posts: 2
    Eric,

    I am having the same problem with the truck shaking and it's driving me crazy. I had my wheels balanced twice and also had them balanced to the exact gram. I have BF Goodrich tires and was thinking of getting Michellins? I have a felling this is going to be more than the tire problem. Mine starts at 60-65 mph? Keep me posted on what you hear or if any one knows something please reply.

    Thanks,
    Derek<
  • jimmerjimmer Posts: 9
    I've got a temp fix right now. Apparently toyota is working on a remedy. My dealer cut out some pieces from an old bumper and mounted it between the bumper mounts and the frame. It's much better but not perfect!!
  • I have the same problem and from what I've learned, I say: "Don't replace your igniter, take the vapor lock more seriously !"
    I also know other people who have the same problem. Our small town Toyota dealer here knows nothing about it, but I talked a Toyota service manager in Tucson and they see a lot of this problem. As I had figured, it is a vapor lock issue and is due to a design flaw in this engine.

    What is apparently happening is that normally your fuel stays pressurized and there is not a heat problem because pressurized fuel will not boil. But in this case it is losing pressure due to a leak or a faulty pressure regulator. It only causes trouble when your engine is hot and it's hot outside, because otherwise the fuel lines don't heat up too much. It does not show up when you start your car right up at the store because there has not been time for the pressure to drop.

    The dealer said that specific leak diagnoses is tricky, but they often just start at the pressure regulator and work back to the pump, replacing parts until it is fixed. In stubborn systems, they will work around the leak by insulating the lines wherever they are near heat so that the pressure loss is not a problem.

    So far, I have not had a chance to fix my truck. Now that I know what it is, I just turn my ignition on and off a couple times, giving the system a chance to equalize out again. Usually, when I go to start, if no joy then off, wait a minute, on, but no crank then off a half minute, and so on, for four to five rounds. By then it seems to clear out and have gas again. Try it. Sometimes I try giving it gas, because I know that tells something to the computer (signals flooding, see owners manual) but I'm not sure if that helps.

    Eventually I intend to put a fuel pressure guage on the system and test the pressure reg etc. There are procedures for testing the fuel system. For most folks it might be easier to just go ahead and replace that regulator without even testing, if you want.

    I really doubt this is caused by the igniter. Buy a pressure reg instead and let us know.

    Steve
  • df4gcdf4gc Posts: 1
    Good grief, you guys throw all kinds of stuff onto these cars. Have you attached a fuel pressure gauge to see what the rail pressure is when the thing acts up ??? Maybe the pressure is not up to parr and the engine can't fire. How about taking the vehicle to someone who knows what they are doing, like a skilled mechanic. Of course you would have to pay for service,,,darn, eh
  • 129129 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 4x4 Sport that does the exact same thing. Did you ever fine out what the problem was, or the fix?
This discussion has been closed.